GreyGoose

Ya I just had a customer say "We would have known if when he showed up in court he had bright red hair and looked dazed and confused, of course "they" kill him off already".

Hey Ed, if I may; The Stock Rem triggers are just heavy and a little rough, they say you can adjust them down but I have never been able to get any of mine down below 4lbs. The Timney's are nice, you can't go wrong with one of them. If you do end up going with a chassis or aftermarket stock at some point be aware sometimes the pin on the side of the Timney's can make that problematic, not that you can't get them dropped in however a little modification may be required. For my Rem 700 go to trigger I like the Shilen, they are a great trigger! Light and crisp, you might want to look at those. (Produce nice barrels too.) Good luck!

They are cool, but isn't it easier to just carry a Glock 19 or 21 with a couple +2 mags... Haha?

Was one of the first optics I bought when I was starting to get into the long range stuff years ago, had the fixed 10X w/ a side parallax focus. I put that thing thru the ringer, and it always held its zero. The clicks when dialing the turrets felt a little mushy I recall, but the tracking itself all the way thru was always spot on. Wish I had kept it, gave it to my Son a while back to put on his Tikka T3 Super Lite. If you are looking for a budget optic, you'd be very hard pressed do better, if you could do better at all. For the money there is just nothing even close IMO.

Bought the Aero Precision M5 completed upper and a stripped M5 lower today.... ;-) And away we go!

The Evo is 9mm, but I've been wanting one of LWRC's PSD-P something awful!

Thx Mike, Am a huge fan of the Grn Mtn barrel on our bad ass 10-22 we drill extraordinarily tight groups with! That is now on the list. Thx. -GG

Missed the meaning on the first line of your post. Still not sure...thought we determined these things in PM's. Range as I explained will be on the property we live on, big acreage, usual suspects needing culling. :-) I would say 3-600 meters would be a stretch, under that from day to day. Hope I answered your blanks so you can help me, thx!

See I only know 2 of those... ;-)

Sorry if I was vague in some way. Ok, let me answer that; I mentioned in the opening thread, I was willing to settle for a 308 build to forgo some of the foibles one might encounter at least in so much as I read about around the forum. However if it is as simple as you say, then great, but as was brought up in a thread we both commented on things with all this 308AR stuff is not easily interpreted, I've read all sorts of incompatibilities, I didn't even know the Geissele trigger was incompatible with the KNS pins... so you get the idea. One more thing, do I go on Matrix website and buy the receivers, or do I contact Chris via a reference from 308AR, how is that best addressed? Thx. ;-) So great I will go with the Matrix, and the x-caliber, and do it in 338 Fed. Awesome. I was saying 18" for the default position of 308, but for a 338 build, again I haven't built one and not much good info to draw from, so I guess I am left to rely on Dustin at x-caliber as I mentioned in our PM exchanges, or you, or whoever is experienced enough with that caliber and is willing to share to give me good advice. You guys who have been messing with this stuff for a while have to recall how messy the learning curve is with all this given how inconsistent the info of spot on info is... ;-) You BTW have been great and I would be on square one if it weren't for you hitting me up with the right nod here and there, so thank you Sir! How do I get in touch with Chris with Matrix, just thru their website or...? Thx! ;-)

Right on 98, they just said ir was a Rem 700 in 308 when I bought mine. Mine is the same but black. The tac21 and LSS are cool too! I agree with 98 on chassis', however the free floated barrel, ability to provide better purchase, and stability etc make me wanna say a chassis can make a good shooter better. ;-) Every rifle I have installed in a drop in v block chassis has made me a better shooter. Depends what you want to do with it to, but even then a manners or HS precision v block sort of hunting stock gives you a better chance to make hits. Its you + Load development which = barrel harmonics + set up that = great results and hits on target.

Here is that gun in an MDT chassis:

So... being a noob and no real way to distinguish that, which is better? My guts tells me AR-10 just because I don't read the horror stories associated with the DPMS builds, its all patterned off the stoner design I guess, and the DPMS stuff seems to be a little more unpredictable. But I am liking the 308AR idea, it's kinda like; I am an Android guy as opposed to Apple. ;-)

Thx, added some additional info in orig post. I saw the Matrix, just unfamiliar with them, saw you did a build with them, maybe that's a route to consider. Thanks again!

Okay, was thinking 338 Fed build but seeing how wonky things can go with all this stuff, better to take baby steps. I have a LWRC M6A2, a tricked out Rem 700 300 Win Mag long range set up, a Wilson Combat Bill Wilson Carry 1911, and a multitude of other higher end guns, but for this I think I will avoid the Noveske's and LMT's if possible and just go middle of the road as I am unsure what I am doing here and wanna manage my "oh poop" exposure... Haha. So my Q for you guys is this, will the following work; Aero Precision M5 .308 receiver set (Possible Matrix Aerospace receiver set) ?D. Wilson BCGX-Caliber 18" or 20" Free Floated barrelYHM Handguard Chris from Matrix for handguardGas system (Syrac or SLR adjustable gas block) ?Standard LPKKNS pin set Standard pin setGeissele TriggerBuffer tube and buffer (7.75" buffer tube (Vltor A5 length), and any 3.25" standard length ar15 buffer, 308 rifle springs from Slash's heavy buffers) ?Magpul PRS stockThoughts? Open to any reasoning for the need for changes, nothing is exempt from being changed. Are the AP receivers working well, obviously the PSA stuff is prone to being problematic. Let me know, anxious to get started! ;-) Thanks in advance for your input!

Would seem we like to date the same kinda chicks... They're dependable, willing to go to any length, and best part is they put out whenever called upon. ;-) Congrats!

That water swishing gig... ROTFLMAO!

We don't have cable, so I never know whats even on or new, but when I do find out about a decent show, usually its outdoor or gun related, I download it. Right now we enjoy watching: Edge of AlaskaAloneThe last AlaskansSo what are you watching these days?

You are correct. He's building a PSA rifle and needs the whole LPK, and since PSA has a version of their LPK packaged together with the AGL trigger... I just went that way with it. The advanced combat trigger is of course available from AGL Defense for $66, and the PSA ACT LPK is $99, so... take your pick. Thanks for the clarification 392. ;-)

Kinda took the words right out of my mouth, I am new and after a couple days digging around in here a little confused, and subsequently afraid to make a move for fear of it being a mistake. Never would have thought it would be this complex to build a well executed 308Win or 338Fed gas gun. Ha?

I've heard good things about the PSA ACT tuned LPK. Comes with the ACT relatively inexpensive, standard pull weight trigger group, MILSPEC but polished and coated, akin to the spikes battle trigger group.

I think SurvivalShop is on the right track here given what we have to work with up to this point. The different loads produced different nodes and anti-nodes along the barrel, and as the barrel harmonics changed the whipping of the barrel changed as well and your ladder group reflected that. Ladders are what we all grew up with I know, but you might check out out Dan Newberrys work, he's the guy who came up with the "Optimal Charge Weight Load Development" system. I've run through it a few times and was happy with the results, I know a lot of long range guys use it, its really quite simple and it really does tune your barrel in and help you find the best load for consistent accuracy. Hope that helps. ;-)

I have not found any bad jars either, (knock on wood) but it happens, and yes bad rims and seals are the biggest issue for sure. Please if you are interested in canning take the time to watch this video. It is Wendy DeWitt and she has an excellent program for canning and food storage. Be forewarned she is a Mormon and this contains some references to that effect. However the information is incredibly valuable! ENJOY!!!

Jars are pretty cheap, and you have to be very careful with old second hand jars, make sure to inspect them closely as you don't want them to go in the caner, or find out 2 years from now (during the collapse) when you go to get that delicious jar of "____" off the shelf only to find that it is spoiled from a hairline crack in the old jar. ;-) Not that I haven't picked up my share, just look em over closely.