Jump to content
308AR.com Community
  • Visit Aero Precision
  • Visit Brownells
  • Visit EuroOptic
  • Visit Site
  • Visit Beachin Tactical
  • Visit Rainier Arms
  • Visit Ballistic Advantage
  • Visit Palmetto State Armory
  • Visit Cabelas
  • Visit Sportsmans Guide


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I love a little M825 Smoke!
  2. Glad to hear that adjusting the gas block worked for you - regardless of technique used. Yes, these things are habit-forming!
  3. We can agree to disagree. What about adjustable gas blocks that have suppressor bleed off positions past the "wide open" gas position? On a non-bleed off adjustable gas block, where do you stop when you back the metering screw out to run it "wide open"? As I said, most instructions tell you to start from the closed position or 1 turn open from the closed position and this is good advise for the questions I stated above. The OP wasn't getting the bolt to lock back so there is no reason for him to go to the gas block closed position to start the tuning process. Just start from where he's at and open it up a little at a time. Either way, you get to the same end.
  4. Can you manually lock the bolt back? You didn't mention - did you try to adjust the gas block? Sounds like you need to open it up (adjust for more gas). Most of the adjustable gas block instructions tell you to increase gas until you get the bolt to lock back on a magazine last round and then turn the adjustment one more click to ensure gas is sufficient for all ammo. If that doesn't work, is your gas block lined up with the barrel's gas port correctly?
  5. Yeah, gotcha DS44. I experimented with IMR 4895 and 250 grain bullets over the Summer but the MVs were low and the loads wouldn't cycle the action sufficiently to eject a spent case. Most impressive handload so far has been 300 grain Parker Productions Match/Hunter bullets and Lil' Gun powder. Cartridge overall length with the long ogive Parker bullet fills an unmodified steel magazine and functioned correctly. The Parker bullets are too expensive to be my "standard" load. I've prepared some 200 and 250 grain Hornady FTX bullets and Lil'Gun with good results and are much cheaper.
  6. My neighbor introduced me to it last winter - became an instant favorite. I have to admit that I haven't tried any recipes, straight up is damned good!

    My first!

    Good looking rifle, have fun!
  8. As Matt said, lots of good barrel makers out there that have off the shelf configurations or could build you a custom barrel to your specs. I have a .308 LR with an 18" Ballistic Advantage barrel and wouldn't consider it a 1000 yard gun - more like 600 yard with an ability to reach out to 1000 yard if I was desperate. You need to consider barrel, barrel length, and intended cartridge (what bullet, bullet weight, powder charge, overall cartridge length etc), resulting muzzle velocity and velocity at the target. A 155 grain bullet requires a different rifling twist rate than a 168 or 175 grain bullet to ensure bullet stability and optimize accuracy. Are you going to shoot off the shelf match ammo (Black Hills, Federal Gold Medal Match etc) or handload? I little more info would be helpful to the guys on this site or when talking to a barrel manufacturer: - What is your intended .308 cartridge configuration? Off the shelf, commercial match-grade or handloads? What bullet weight - 155, 168, are 175 grain are popular. My precision bolt action .308 rifle is configured for 168 grain cartridges (handloaded SMK 2200 or commercial Federal Gold Medal Match) whereas my brother's rifle was built to shoot 155 grain bullets (SMK 2155 or 2156 Palma handloads). His rifling twist rate and mine are slightly different. Same consideration would apply to a precision LR build. - Is this a dedicated 1000 yard rifle or a multi-purpose rifle that is 1000 yard capable? Goes to barrel profile, weight, and length and rifle overall weight and length. - Off the shelf barrel or custom, what is your price range? As an example, I built a 1000 yard capable LR in .243 Win using Aero Precision upper and lower receivers and 15" handguard. At has a custom 24" heavy contour stainless barrel from X-caliber with a rifling twist rate to shoot heavier (for caliber) 95 grain bullet that I handload. At the time, 3 years ago, the barrel cost me about $450. I shoot it at a 1000 yard range regularly and have competed in a few 1000 events with it. As configured with a 24X Vortex optic, Magpul PRS adjustable stock, and Harris bi-pod it weights in at a hair over 14.5 lbs without a mag/ammo.
  9. I'm using SLR Rifleworks Sentry 8 (.875") adjustable gas blocks in both my .243 Win and 45 Raptor rifles. Melonite steel on the .243 and titanium on the 45 Raptor. Both have great adjustability and the customer service is exceptional.
  10. Not sure if you necessarily need the +2 gas system or if you will see much of a difference when compared to a rifle length system - but I don't know. I have a 24" barreled .243Win with rifle length gas tube and adjustable gas block that I built for long range shooting and 1000 yard events. My X-caliber barrel came drilled with a .0625 gas port but I had to open it up to .0935" to get it to function correctly - guys on this site helped me resolve that issue. Besides the adjustable gas block, I have standard LR308 gas, BCG, and rifle length buffer/buffer spring parts. It fires hot 95 grain handloads consistently and hasn't had a stoppage/malfunction since resolving the gas port size over two years and about 750 rounds ago. I may try a heavier buffer in the future just to compare but in my experience with the 3 LRs I have (.308, .243, and 45 Raptor) I didn't need one to make the rifles function correctly. I am interested to hear how the +2 gas system and the heavy buffer works for you, keep us posted.
  11. Sales are dangerous...that's how I ended up building the 45 Raptor. Just could not pass up the 45% off barrel sale at X-caliber a while back. JUST DO IT!
  12. Hey thanks for your insights. I've reviewed the .460 S&W Magnum load data and loaded a first batch of 10 using that data using Lil Gun. I reload .243 and .308 and I guess have got used to all the powder options. Just was wondering what others have tried and have had good performance with outside of the limited .460 data that generally specifies faster burning pistol powders. Seems to me like the 45 Raptor could take advantage of additional barrel length with a slower burning powder. I recently picked up some IMR 4227 and will have to try it to compare with the Lil Gun.
  13. BigBull, I assume you are handloading ammo for that cannon - I must say that it is a sharp looking build. I recently assembled a 16" barreled 45 Raptor LR with a mid-length, adjustable gas system for myself and am looking for suggestions on a starting point for handloads. There's not much info out there on handloading the 45 Raptor/460 S&W Magnum for rifle use - I worked up a small batch of 250gr Hornady SST bullets and Lil Gun powder to conduct the test fire (10 rounds) and the rifle functioned fine. I'm now looking for powders suitable to maximize velocity and accuracy using 200-300gr bullets in the longer rifle barrel. I've seen others discuss using H110 and IMR 4227, how about the slower burning powders like IMR 4895 or 4064? Appreciate any insight. Ty
  14. Don't be surprised if you have to open up the gas port a little - seems like .243 barrel ports come from the factory a little small. I opened mine up to .0935" for use with an adjustable gas block - barrel came with a .0625 port originally which didn't consistently lock the bolt back on the last round. Once I fixed that issue it shot great, my go to rifle now.
  15. I built a 24" barreled .243 and love the poop out of it. Has great accuracy in the 100-500 range and holds its own in a 1000 yard match. Fix your gas tube length, tune the adjustable gas block for your ammo, and enjoy the heck out of the .243.
  • Create New...