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BIGTRUCKNUT

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  1. AR Gas System Lengths.pdf AR Barrel Contours.pdf
  2. Didn't get a chance to shoot this past weekend. I have range day planned with a few friends this coming Friday, hope to get the test firing done then. Ty
  3. Thanks... it's nice having a lathe here at the house. Glad there's no concerns, I'll run it and report back.
  4. Hoping to borrow my club's chrono Saturday morning to get some accurate velocity data on the 300grain/Lil Gun loads.
  5. Going out this weekend to do a second test fire. First test fire last Fall went okay. Firing long 300 grain Parker Match bullets propelled by Lil Gun, the rifle loaded from an unmodified magazine, cycled, ejected spent brass, and locked the bolt back on the last round as it should. At the time I didn't make up a lot of ammo for the test so I didn't get a chance to adjust the gas block to my liking. In the few shots I made, it had a noticeable kick when compared to my LR 308. At the time of the first test the LR 45 had a 16" barrel, mid-length gas tube, and DPMS 308 carbine buffer and spring. I have since replaced the buffer tube with a BCM A5 carbine length tube (7 3/4") and machined my own "heavy buffer" to replace the stock DPMS carbine buffer. The new buffer is made from stainless to an overall length of 3.25", accepts three tungsten weights, and weights 9.2 oz. Is there anything I should be concerned about when testing it with the new, significantly heavier buffer?
  6. I love a little M825 Smoke!
  7. Glad to hear that adjusting the gas block worked for you - regardless of technique used. Yes, these things are habit-forming!
  8. We can agree to disagree. What about adjustable gas blocks that have suppressor bleed off positions past the "wide open" gas position? On a non-bleed off adjustable gas block, where do you stop when you back the metering screw out to run it "wide open"? As I said, most instructions tell you to start from the closed position or 1 turn open from the closed position and this is good advise for the questions I stated above. The OP wasn't getting the bolt to lock back so there is no reason for him to go to the gas block closed position to start the tuning process. Just start from where he's at and open it up a little at a time. Either way, you get to the same end.
  9. Can you manually lock the bolt back? You didn't mention - did you try to adjust the gas block? Sounds like you need to open it up (adjust for more gas). Most of the adjustable gas block instructions tell you to increase gas until you get the bolt to lock back on a magazine last round and then turn the adjustment one more click to ensure gas is sufficient for all ammo. If that doesn't work, is your gas block lined up with the barrel's gas port correctly?
  10. Yeah, gotcha DS44. I experimented with IMR 4895 and 250 grain bullets over the Summer but the MVs were low and the loads wouldn't cycle the action sufficiently to eject a spent case. Most impressive handload so far has been 300 grain Parker Productions Match/Hunter bullets and Lil' Gun powder. Cartridge overall length with the long ogive Parker bullet fills an unmodified steel magazine and functioned correctly. The Parker bullets are too expensive to be my "standard" load. I've prepared some 200 and 250 grain Hornady FTX bullets and Lil'Gun with good results and are much cheaper.
  11. My neighbor introduced me to it last winter - became an instant favorite. I have to admit that I haven't tried any recipes, straight up is damned good!
  12. BIGTRUCKNUT

    My first!

    Good looking rifle, have fun!
  13. As Matt said, lots of good barrel makers out there that have off the shelf configurations or could build you a custom barrel to your specs. I have a .308 LR with an 18" Ballistic Advantage barrel and wouldn't consider it a 1000 yard gun - more like 600 yard with an ability to reach out to 1000 yard if I was desperate. You need to consider barrel, barrel length, and intended cartridge (what bullet, bullet weight, powder charge, overall cartridge length etc), resulting muzzle velocity and velocity at the target. A 155 grain bullet requires a different rifling twist rate than a 168 or 175 grain bullet to ensure bullet stability and optimize accuracy. Are you going to shoot off the shelf match ammo (Black Hills, Federal Gold Medal Match etc) or handload? I little more info would be helpful to the guys on this site or when talking to a barrel manufacturer: - What is your intended .308 cartridge configuration? Off the shelf, commercial match-grade or handloads? What bullet weight - 155, 168, are 175 grain are popular. My precision bolt action .308 rifle is configured for 168 grain cartridges (handloaded SMK 2200 or commercial Federal Gold Medal Match) whereas my brother's rifle was built to shoot 155 grain bullets (SMK 2155 or 2156 Palma handloads). His rifling twist rate and mine are slightly different. Same consideration would apply to a precision LR build. - Is this a dedicated 1000 yard rifle or a multi-purpose rifle that is 1000 yard capable? Goes to barrel profile, weight, and length and rifle overall weight and length. - Off the shelf barrel or custom, what is your price range? As an example, I built a 1000 yard capable LR in .243 Win using Aero Precision upper and lower receivers and 15" handguard. At has a custom 24" heavy contour stainless barrel from X-caliber with a rifling twist rate to shoot heavier (for caliber) 95 grain bullet that I handload. At the time, 3 years ago, the barrel cost me about $450. I shoot it at a 1000 yard range regularly and have competed in a few 1000 events with it. As configured with a 24X Vortex optic, Magpul PRS adjustable stock, and Harris bi-pod it weights in at a hair over 14.5 lbs without a mag/ammo.
  14. I'm using SLR Rifleworks Sentry 8 (.875") adjustable gas blocks in both my .243 Win and 45 Raptor rifles. Melonite steel on the .243 and titanium on the 45 Raptor. Both have great adjustability and the customer service is exceptional.
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