Inthebushes

Every weekend a few of us get together for a little friendly competition. If it’s rifles, this is what we do. There are 5 rounds. You shoot until you miss. A miss is anything that doesn’t break the red on 2 inch square. Center of bullseye is considered center of your group. Targets have to be shot in order. Distance from center of bullseye to center of furtherest hit is your round score. Below target represents 1 round of 5 with a score of 93, from PA10, bipod, sandbag, 250 yards. Then we go to 400 yds, 4 inch spinner, most consecutive hits, wins. The best on consecutive hits has been 13, not me, bolt action. The 4 inch spinner has a 3 inch target on top, you can call 3” and force everyone to shoot the 3” in their run if you hit it. My question is do you guys have any regular competitions, that would work with this 250 and 400 yd setup. I want to FK everybody up and change all the rules on them?

Hardening schools, all schools mandatory, immediately, is the only solution; money. Even then, these Little Pukes will still slip through. If you own a gun, you are responsible. The dad should be charged with 10 counts of murder. These Little Pukes make me sick.

FYI

These “Little Pukes” are everywhere in or country. The Little Pukes are raised without fathers, or their fathers are Little Pukes as well. They get Participation Trophies, they don’t keep score, they don’t work for anything, and nothing is expected from them. This father was responsible for the guns after the Little Puke had them taken away. The father should be arrested and held responsible; prison. The FBI did their job. Put yourself in the situation. The FBI takes guns from your son, there is no way he would get his hands on them, period. Think about that, the FBI TAKES GUNS FROM YOUR SON. If we don’t tightened up, and by we, I mean the men of this country, one of these Little Pukes is going to cause us all to lose our 2nd amendments rights. I apologize for the rant, I’m sure someone will be offended, but like the Gorilla, I’m sick of these Littlle Pukes running around shooting people because their little feelings are hurt, or they are disappointed.

This may be common knowledge, but I couldn’t find it on the old inter web and there was no response from BCA. It was time for me to replace a 243 Win barrel which was shot out. Not needing a 4000 yard 1/4 inch MOA barrel like most, and not wanting to spend $600, I bought this BCA barrel for next to nothing. I read somewhere that BCA uses Armalite length gas system. The photos below are the BCA barrel (bottom) and the shot out barrel (top). The top barrel is definitely Armalite length, and the BCA barrel lines up perfectly. Just info someone might need.

Perfect!

Worked up hunting load for AR308 in 6mm Creedmoor. Final 5 shot group at 250 yards below.c+

SPS has some blemish 129 accubonds $33/100. I think I’m going to order some of those. I have had some issues with blemished target bullets from them in the past but I’ve also had some that worked great. For a hunting bullet, I’m guessing they will be fine. Thanks for the info and help.

Thank you Sir

Your right. Great reports, how are they generated? The Grendel is for Junior, he is 9. He has been using AR 243 with 20 inch heavy barrel. He does really well with it, but it is heavy for his size. Hell, it’s heavy for my size. He took 2 deer last year with it, both at 300 yards, both called neck shots. My goal is specific, flat, light gun, light recoil, 250 yd to 300 yd target and hunting. The target we shoot is 250 yds. The food plot we hunt is 325 yds to where the deer normally come into the plot. The 100 ELDs work well at the 250 yd target, the gun is zeroed at 250. Will definitely move to a 120 something bullet for the deer. Any suggestions on the heavier hunting round? Would appreciate the above reports with a 250 yd zero?

Not really a .308 question, more theory question for the reloading gurus.

Caliber was 6.5 Grendel with 100 grain ELD. Some guys had told me they were getting good velocities with Hodgdon LeveRevolution in 6.5 Grendels. I didn’t have any LeveRevolution, but I had H380, which is next to it on the burn rate charts. I started really low and just came up to my POI established with the H355. The Varget load I just threw in there because I had some sitting there, and I had nothing else to do. I believed the H380 would be too slow, but maybe not. The H355 load is pretty hot and shoots well. The H380 load was shooting well and showing no warning signs. It may have a little more room yet. I know the Saftey Monitors will surely be after me.

H335/29.5. Varget/29.5. H380/32.0 I thought there might be a “law of physics” covering this, but I didn’t do well in physics, in fact I think I missed physics all together, and I’m not sure I’m spelling it correctly.

250 yards. First powder was H335, second powder Varget, third powder H380. I know the speed for H355, it’s the load I use all the time. The Varget and H380 loads, I just manipulated until I got the same POI. I didn’t have a way to check the velocity today and it just seemed plausible velocity would be similar if not the same. Thought I would ask, because I’m usually wrong. Everything else was the same; brass, primer, OGIVE, crimp, weather, etc. the only variable was the powder.

Is velocity the same?

I get them from Larue Tactical. They are listed as Tubbs Buffer Springs AR10/SR25. Just under $20.00.

I have a similar driveway situation in a rural area. I have an electric gate but I still like to know when someone is at the gate; UPS, and sometimes the gate is open. I have used the Chamberlain driveway monitors for years. They claim a 2 mile range, but with terrain, trees, weather, etc., 1/4 mile is realistic. You can have 4 sensors on one unit. If someone is at the gate, I get 1 tone. If they are half way to the house I get 2 tones. If they are at the barn, I get three tones. If they are at the front door, I get 4 tones. They have proven to be very reliable and low maintenance. The sensors are battery powered and the base is 110. Batteries last several months. They will pick up deer, and I have used them to battle armadillos when they start digging in the yard. They are not expensive and they actually work.

I like the PA10s. I have built 3 of them now. I have one chambered in 308, 243, and the newest in 6mm Creedmoor. All of them have required 50 cents in the buffer tube. One had to have a little grind on the bolt release. I have put the flat wire buffer spring in each, but wasn’t necessary. The flat wire spring just makes everything feel smoother and consistent. I put adjustable gas blocks on all my guns, so they got that as well. They are identical and they all run great. The 6 Creedmoor has a McGowen Precision barrel and is stupid accurate. The main thing with the 6mms is bullet selection. You can’t feed the long bullets like hybrids and VLDs. I stay with the 108 ELD-Ms in the 243 and 6 Creed and get 100% reliability and sub-moa accuracy.

Problem Solved! Although I had removed and cleaned the gas block, I did not check the actual gas port on the barrel. I removed the block again, dropped a 1/16 drill bit in the hole, spun it a couple times to clean off the edges, and put everything back together. Set the adjustable gas block on 4 clicks open, fired 4 rounds, and got 10 feet ejections at 3:00 with solid lock up each time. Maybe this will help someone in the future. Thanks everyone for the help.

I took the extractor out and cleaned and removed one o-ring, no difference. The ejector seemed strong and free, but I did not remove. If I hand cycle slow, I get the same problem. If I hand cycle fast, it ejects. Everything feels smooth and slick. Somehow, I have lost the bolt speed. Gas key is tight. I have a third bolt to try. That will eliminate bolt problem 100%.

Just been using as a single shot because it destroys the next round. Even if it manages to get the next round into the chamber, the bullet itself has a big gouge in the jacket. Since we shoot for long range accuracy, I just load one at a time. Very accurate, but I hate the gun. I believe the gouge comes when the top round is stripped. The next round is moved forward and up enough for the lugs to smash it on the way by. I’ve tried several types of magazine, manipulated feed lips. I’ve given up on the automatic cycling. However the bolt lockup problem makes even single shot suck. It has to be something obvious, but I can’t see it. Is there a way to shoot a short video and post here?

The gas block looked good. I tried 3 types of magazine. I blew out the bolt catch and oiled, seemed free. Hand cycled action/bolt feels smooth. I did not try without the suppressor, but I will in the morning.

This gun has never worked well, but has a new problem. I have used it primarily as a single shot and it has never had an issue with the bolt locking back. Now, I can’t get it to lock back. AP upper, lower, bolt, parts. Adjustable gas block SLR; I removed it, cleaned it and the gas tube. Gas block alignment was perfect. Gas block adjustment functioned, fully closed to 12 clicks fully open. Had a Tubbs spring, replaced with standard spring no change. Tried a different bolt, no change. Cleaned everything, no change. Lubed everything, no change. I run a suppressor so I can’t believe it is lack of gas. Prior to this problem, 2 or 3 clicks open, would hold back on anything. Now wide open at 12 clicks will not hold back 9 out 10 times. When it does hold back, I get the following photo. When it doesn’t hold back, it will drive the empty forward and crunch the case mouth. Any ideas what I need to do next? This is not a new gun and probably has 1500-2000 rounds through it.

Very cool pics, made my day. Probably offend someone nowadays, or is everybody already offended?

Get your concealed carry permit if you don’t have one, and carry CONCEALED 100 % of the time. Be prepared, it gets worse every day. I live on a farm, and never leave the house without my weapon. Many days I don’t even see anybody, doesn’t matter.