MrPaul

I've got some friends that own a gun shop where they carry aero .308 lowers. I'll take my micrometer and measure one. Thanks for all the solutions. Now I just have to get home to my drill press.

Thanks Lane. I took a look at the pdf and it looks pretty straightforward. I'm on vacation and don't have the lower with me but I can see where these might need a little extra milling to make it fit. Hopefully this works.

Damn...y'all think of everything. Thanks. That looks easy enough to hold it in place. I guess I'll just figure out where the pocket goes and trace it on the lower then cut it free hand. 🤞

How does that scope work at 100 yrds? I have buddy that needs some night gear but doesn't want to drop a few k on a pig shoot'n thermal.

Thanks for the input guys. I have a jigs for .308.. I have a hellfire, m1, and another generic one that I picked up at a gun show but none are compatible with this lower. I guess I'll measure the width of the lowers for those jigs an use the one that's closest to this one. This lower has the wings that hang over next to where the trigger group goes. I think I just need to get the measurement on the space between the bolt release slot and the front of the firing group pocket and to make sure I get the pocket centered from side to side. I also need to figure out how to level the lower on the drill press so I can work on it.

Thanks man. I've got the measurement data. Just looking for how not to f**k it up without a jig data.

I got the PA 3-18×50 and I'm impressed for the price. Obviously I haven't shot with it yet. I have an issue with the .80 lower. I bought at a gun show years ago because it was cheap but the guy didn't know what kind it was and he didn't have a jig...so it ended up in the junk box. None of the jigs I have fit it. Anyone have any info on milling without a jig? All I've found online seems to require a CNC machine and machining knowledge. I've always used a drill press and have no machining skills or knowledge.

That's a really nice rifle. I wonder if the back pressure from shooting with the suppressor had anything to do with the crack on your rear takedown pin hole. I run a polymer 80 lower on 1 of my guns that has few thousand rounds through it and haven't had any cracks. The stripping on the buffer tube threads was an issue on mine so I just figured the buffer tube was permanently attached once I got it back on straight.

I started this dmr last week on the cheap. I went to the gun store and they have a used bargain barrel of parts. I found the ergo stock for $20, the hogue grip for $5 and the odin rail with no barrel nut or other hardware for $25. (Amazing how a few parts can bring on the build. I went to my regular spot to buy the rest of the parts and they gave me the barrel nut and hardware for free. The bill for the rest of the parts: aero upper and bcg, geissle 2 stage, faxon 20" fluted 5r barrel were about $800, and I had an .80 lower and all the spare odds and ends in my junk box. All in less the optic...I'm at less than $900 for a nice rifle. I ordered a primary arms 3-18x50 .308 acss HUD dmr scope today. I still need to mil the lower and hopefully it will be a nice rifle.

There's lots of new light weight parts that have come out. No need to call Dr. Kevorkian on this thread just yet.

Oddly enough. I got the barrel back from odin and they said the chamber was in spec and the problem must be with the bolt.... So they sent the barrel back to the shop with another bolt. The shop I bought it from swapped out the bolt and and we shot it into the barrel in the back. It works fine. Hopefully I can get it out to the range after hunting season and see how she shoots.

Sveeet

I stand corrected.

You may have a buffer tube issue. Are you useing a commercial or mil spec buffer tube. I think the inner diameter is smaller on one of them. No expert on the subject here but that's the one thing I can think of that would cause a bolt carrier to get stuck half way back. Another is the little nub on top of the charging handle tip where it meets your gas key. Is that rubbing on the inside top of your upper receiver when you pull it back?

Probably tighten up your moa as you break the barrel in.

So did it shoot straight? Range report?

There are a lot of crappy forged lowers that work but are a tad out of spec that you can get for 99 bux. Usually out if spec at the pivot pin which can be fixed with a file if they are too tight or some jb weld and a file if they are too loose. Hellfire armory makes some really nice billet lowers that don't cost much more. D5 tactical also has a nice looking one for about 150. If you want to go the $99 route sometimes you can find the polymer lower warrhogg on sale. If you fug up the safety detent hole when you're milling it out the warrhogg...fix it with jb weld and re-drill the detent hole. Hope this rambling spew of info helps.

Texas bro...Texas. I don't always drink brandy, but when I do..... I always become loquasiously inappropriate.

I am more loquacious when given the correct amount of brandy.

Yup....old charging handles are banished to the spare parts box. Holding a tiny spring in place while lining up tiny holes and pounding a tiny pin into that tiny hole without the spring popping out is no fun.

Holy smokes.... I smell a new Chuck Norris!

Rifle length buffer tube needs a rifle length buffer and buffer spring and carbine tubes use a carbine spring and buffer. Gas tube length doesn't affect anything but i would use an adjustable gas block to make sure you don't end up over gassed.

Yup. Things ain't right with that extension. Your method is going to give you a much more accurate look at things than rolling it on a glass table top.

Take the barrel off, roll it on a flat surface. If there is wobble in the middle. The barrel is bent. If there is no wobble roll it with the extension hanging off the edge of your flat surface while looking up the chamber. If the chamber appears to wobble your extension is not on right. If this doesn't show any wobble...its an installation issue and not the barrel. In My experience its always been something with the installation and not the barrel. I've used your straight edge method before but its not conclusive because the extension nub is covered by the barrel nut and you have to see that the nub and the gas hole don't line up on the square to see that the barrel is bent. Just my opinion and methods...hope it helps if not I'm sure faxon will help you.

I've had to do it 5 or 6 times. It may not fix your problem but its worth a try. I've never monkied with faxon barrels so I don't know the suggested torque specs. Maybe its over torqued. All I can say is I've had the same issue on several occasions and it's a trulley frustrating experience but I've always been able to fix it that way. I would think its pretty hard for a barrel that's not straight to make it past even the most elementary q.c. checks.