terrt_tr6

sorry, i only have one .308 format. but i have trouble seeing much different in design from an AR15 that would require any difference in lubrication. And you may be right, if you are doing combat style match shooting a brake would help with follow-up shots. And WHERE did i say bone dry? I stated that oil on parts that have no contact is meaningless. and a light coat of a good grease stays in place on sliding points of contact. " I would think" was a polite way of saying soaking your bolt carrier and charging handle in a bag of oil is just about the most stupid thing i have ever heard of, other than telling a marine gunny to his face he needs to get a job at a fast food restaurant. carry on boys. i will

I would think, if you want the parts to "wear in", light, normal lube of contact points and frequent cleaning to remove any particles would be the way to go. soaking them in a bag of oil? a light coat of grease on sliding surfaces is all you need, a drop or 2 inside the bolt carrier to lube the rings, a squirt of oil on the trigger assembly pivot points . after the first couple shots, any excess lube is scraped away. any lubricant on non-contact surfaces just get flung around and makes a mess. but whatever works for you is fine, just know that in my experience these rifles don't need to run "wet", what ever that really mean, and grease stays in place on sliding parts a lot better than oil. I have never had any AR style rifle need any sort of real break-in to run cleanly (8 so far) from the start. And if they don't run well with stock parts, you have an issue that needs to be uncovered and corrected before you start adding adjustable gas blocks and swapping buffer weights to reduce the recoil. As my Gunny said about someone who wanted to use a muzzle break in match shooting, If the recoil of an AR15 bothers you, maybe you need to find another hobby.

JL billet may make wonderful handguards, but their cost is way more than i can justify . I never intend to use BUIS on this rifle, so i don't really care that much about rails meeting perfectly, my scope fits just fine in the upper alone. But, got in a combo wrench that fits the nut and an upper vise block for a .308 that doesn't even come close to fitting, I mean i ground about half of it away to even come close, put maybe 40 lbs torque on the nut just to see if it would budge(it didn't). since the upper vise block was such a kludge, i didn't want to risk really laying on the wrench and screwing up an upper The more i think about it, the only reason i wanted the free float was to mount a bipod and to float the barrel for a bit more accuracy. Since i adapted a piece of rail to the plastic handguard. and am not strapping in with a sling, I can't see a freefloat doing that much for accuracy. The sling tension was why we really floated AF-15's for highpower matches. I am not going to get any weight reduction to speak of, i could care less about being tacticool, and i cannot imagine needing a flashlight on it. . screw it, i'll shoot it as it is.

If you take the gun in to the store with you, you can probably get the hostage negotiator to throw in the correct screw for free as part of the hostage release deal (:>

I have a PSA AR10 Gen 2 with the GI style plastic handguard that i would like to swap out for a free float tube. Since i don't expect to be doing this multiple times, i'm looking for a way to minimize the investment in upper receiver blocks and barrel nut wrenches. Any suggestions for where and what style of tools to buy or a place i can borrow/rent them? Maybe send off the upper to get the nut broken lose? I have all the tools for this with an AR15 but that doesn't help me here other than with the knowledge of how to do it. i am in florida on the space coast if someone knows of a gunsmith in the area who does this kind of work. I've already pulled off the GI front sight/gas block and converted it to a very nice low profile gas block( i am NOT contemplating any bayonet charges at my age. Maybe a bayonet walk, but...). The 18" nitrided barrel is giving me pretty nice accuracy, under 2MOA with the milsurp ammo it likes best, so i have great hopes for the right hand load.

so does someone know what nut PSA uses? I understand that the DPMS and Armlite use a different thread but what are the variants for tooth pattern on a "standard " barrel nut? And Dews, i realize the slot "should" be a tight fit but I have done a 1/2 dz ar-15's and have discussed this with several people on line who had the same experience that any tolerance slop stacked up the wrong way using a barrel clamp. It's been some years, so maybe thngs were a bit sloppier back then. Oh well, found a great price on the upper block and just used it since. Besides, now, you can often get the upper complete at such a good price, i have been buying them as a unit.

that plastic hand guard is looking pretty good if it costs $200 to hold the upper. here is a question about that tool. With AR15's i (and others) have found that it you hold the barrel as opposed to the upper when installing the nut (using a barrel clamp or this giessele tool), the indexing pin gets biased to the left side of the slot(shooters perspective). with an upper block, it biases to the right. When biased to the left the front site also goes to the right and requires a lot of windage to get on target. this isn't the case with the upper block. maybe a bigger issue if the slot is a slopppy fit, but i saw it on various manufacturers and years of uppers. For breaking lose a really cranked on nut though, this does look like the tool, but $200 is crazy.

I browsed the AF10 tools forum, but it is pretty dead... I have a PSA AR-10 upper with the USGI (plastic) handguards. I and pretty happy with the barrel but would like to swap to a free float handguard. I cringe at buying an upper vise block and barrel nut wrench for a one time job. Are there people who are willing to lend them(with suitable deposit )? I can see being able to make a barrel nut wrench(assuming PSA didn't hire a gorilla to do the install and furnish him with a 4' cheater bar) but not an upper receiver vise block. Barring the availability of loaner tools, recommended tools to buy for the PSA upper?

got it within the past month in 2 halves

the 40rd box i tested is1978. I have a ammo can of it on order, no idea what the date will be. supposedly range from '78 to early 80's

last night i ordered a can of the Mala. ammo. Years ago a friend got me the end of a roll of newsprint to make targets out of. newspapers throw it away so it's free. Not the best material because it doesn't punch clean holes, but i've been using it for 5+ years and still have a year or 2 worth of paper. usually my groups are not this tight....

just finished an afternoon at the range and tested 7 varieties of "cheap" .308 through my new PSA AR-10. 5 shots each at 50 yds off a rest and 21x scope. Tulammo, 150fmj and 168 SP, Wolf 145 polyformance and 168 fmj, malaysian 146 L2A2, PMC 147fmj, and german milsurp 148fmj. Winner was the malaysian, no contest(1", one blown out hole), with the PMC 147fmj(3") and wolf 168 military classic(2 1/4") easily tied for last place. All the others were 1 1/4-1 1/2" groups. Remember this was at 50 ys. Only failure was a stovepipe with one PMC round. Malaysian group is pictured.

still have 7 brands of ammo to test this afternoon!

the deed is done. Cut off the bayonet lug and sight structure and those pieces dropped the weight of the gun by 3oz, plus a bit more from what i also ground off in reshaping it. Now that i am thinking about it, it would have been easy to do a before and after weight and know exactly...

i have a PSA A2 upper with the M2 style upper and pinned front sight/gas block. I don't ever plan to shoot it with steel sights and plan to someday convert to a free float hand guard, so i thought i'd like to get rid of the front sight. i thought, hmmm, i can either cut off the sight and bayonet mount or pull it off, sell it and replace with a low profile gas block. But since the barrel is already drilled for pins, maybe i should look for a gas block drilled for pins, but i don't see any. And then i realize my current handguard is held in place by the stock gas block and an aftermarket block probably would not. So looks like the decision has been made for me and i get to take the cheap and easy path and get out the dremel. Oh, by the way, can you tell i'm a Libra (:>