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Posted

My 308ar like a bolt action? In the sense of removing the bolt looking down the barrel to the target then adjusting my turrets to match? Local lgs charges like 30-40 bucks rather spend that on powders or projos.

Posted

Yes, you can bore sight it.  Make sure you have the upper very solidly mounted.  It should be close when you launch lead.

Posted

No need to move the knobs until your ready to bore sight it. I do it all the time. Pick something out about 100yds away through the bore of the rifle, tail light, something on on a roof, light pole. Anyway, just line up the bore on it, and without moving the upper, look through the scope and see where it is. Adj the scope is backwars, turning the knob to the left moves the cross hair to the right same for vertical up is moving cross hair is down.

 

Repeat until the cross hair lines up in the center of what you see in the bore, then go shoot.

 

Have fun.

Posted (edited)

That's your elevation knob.  That's what it'll do - up/down.  Side knob is windage adjustment.

Edited by 98Z5V
  • 1 month later...
Posted

just get a green laser bore sighter and set it up at 100 yards. take the lower off and make a holder stand for the upper out of a 2x4 and some wood/nails to stabilize it on car hood..i do it that way so as not to get busted for flagrant display out here in the front yard of the burbs. works good.

Posted (edited)

Boresighting has worked for me for years starting with 105 towed howitzers also bolt action rifles. It saves ammo and allows a armorer to keep rounds on paper on a 200yard range. I used a Bushnell optic boresighter for bolt, lever and semi automatics where the center of the scope is less than 1.75" above the bore. The use of a street light or security light 50 to 200yds away works at sunset. With the borehole (Chamber) you need a laser for each family of cartridges, I have lasers for .308, .233 and 3006 lasers. They cost from $10 to $50 each depending on which brand you ger, Iuse the $10 ones when I can get them, they don't last over 8 or 10 times for me. I use them on mini14s M1s and on AR rifles where the scope is mounted over 2 inches above the bore set up a laser reflective target at 50 yards away and with the rifle or upper in a rifle holder insert the laser in the bore shining in the enter of the target and adjust the scope on the laser spot.
I use a Federal ballistic table on my computer that allows you to set the bullet weight the zero distance and height of the sight above the bore for the correct point of impact, with a laser.  Most of my setups have the bullet impact at 50 yards only an inch off at 50 yards for a 200 yard zeroIt usually gets the first five shots close to the point of aim. If you don't want to do a lot of measuring shoot a group holding dead center at your zero range and with the rifle held fast to where the scope is dead center on the target you shot adjust the scope exactly on center of the group without moving the rifle.
. Reload and shoot another group aiming dead center.

Edited by mrmackc
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Sweet, are the turrets close to their mechanical zero about half way or should I turn them all the way down before I begin

 

Turning the turrets to their stops will put your shots way off paper.

 

What I like to do with any new scope is to set the windage and elevation knobs to the center of adjustment. I turn the knob all the way clockwise while counting the clicks; then I turn all the way counter-clockwise and count the clicks again,  Then I move it back half as many clicks.

 

mbogo

Posted

I do all my ar's on the patio table...with the ar in a cradle I look thru the bore and then to the scope and visa versa while im mounting the scope....you know those red green yellow stickem dots?....I put one on my cedar fence 1.5 years ago and its still there...no crap...lol

just did my 308 this weekend and today right on paper at 100  <lmao>  Wash

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