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Fast enough?


Hotwrench

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Please give your opinion of what f.p.s.would be ideal for a 20 inch barrel, 150gr FMJBT measured at 10 feet from the muzzle.

Or asked another way when reloading for a particular rifle what speed are you trying for with a 150gr FMJBT at 10 feet from the muzzle.  I am aware that you are also judging by the accuracy on target I am just trying to set my parameters.  While we are at it what s.d., e.s., and  do you believe is possible for this round in the real world?

So far I have a average max of 2560 f.p.s., s.d. of 19.97 and an e.s. 68 f.p.s. and decent accuracy with a 10 round sample using P.P.U. projectiles. See attached excel file and comment on the construction of the spreadsheet, it is my first attempt and some of you have been doing this far longer and more successfully than I have. I am using the 4320 because I bought a big jug at 70% off when a LGS quit selling reloading components.

 

 

 

Reloading work up PA10.xlsx

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1 hour ago, 98Z5V said:

I set my gas gun range loads, general purpose loads, 150 Hornady FMJBT, at 2600 fps.  Bolt gun only load for that I go to 2750 fps, and it's a little hot. Even for the bolt guns.

Thanks, it looks like I am there and still have room to adjust o.a.l. a bit and find out what my rifle likes, as long as its shorter since I am at the magazine length at least for sure function in Magpuls.

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I set all those things to 2.800" and run it.  The 2600fps loads does great with that OAL.  Those 2750s were loaded to 2.800" as well.  I just shot my last of those up on Sunday, and I'll only load up a limited number of them.  Those things stay separated from the others, just for the bolt gun use.  I'd hate to mix them up and toss them in a gas gun...   :embarrassed:

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 What kind of rifle , Bolt , Semi auto , 308AR ?  

Barrels Twist rate ?

      Never used that Powder , but what ever shoots the best , I try to get the SD close to single digits as possible , but that doesn't mean they will shoot the best groups , they will be consistent in their impact on the Target  & predictable in some ways , more for long range .

      Just because you got a Powder cheap , doesn't meant it will shoot well in your particular Rifle , one Rifle to another may run better with certain Bullets ( even brand ) & Powder or even Primers , for that matter . Depends on what you want out of your ammo .

     A 149 gr. M 80 Ball ammo , out of  my 20" 308 AR Barrel , 1-10 twist, avg.  @ 2781 fps , so a 150 gr. should be about the same , thats not saying at the FPS it will be the best shooter out of your rifle at what ever distance you are shooting . Working up a load you need to pay attention to you fired Cases & not just the Primer .

  Its all about experimentation , your COL will not be much more then 2.800" if your Rifle is a 308 AR .

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5 hours ago, survivalshop said:

Working up a load you need to pay attention to you fired Cases & not just the Primer .

I am all ears, what do you look for on the case in addition to obvious primer problems?

I like 98Z5Z's thoughts on this load. Why beat up to gun and gunner?

I am sure my round won't exceed 2.80 and fit into a Magpul Magazine and function every time.  If it doesn't go "BANG" every time it needs fixing or replacing, a.s.a.p.  What magazine do you use that has more clearance?

PA10, 1:10 twist

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10 minutes ago, Hotwrench said:

I am all ears, what do you look for on the case in addition to obvious primer problems?

 

Bulging bases, too.  I've done that to a couple 300BLK loads.  Enough to get the damn things stuck in the fullsize resizing die while trying to reload them.  I paid attention to it after that little episode.  Split necks are obvious, once you see them.  That can come from hot loads, but it's usually from old brass (old means used alot, not age).

Edited by 98Z5V
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20 minutes ago, Hotwrench said:

  What magazine do you use that has more clearance?

Lancer mags have good clearence. Here is a thread with measurements for lancer, regular magpul mag, and magpul M118 mags. Downside to the M118's is they only come in 25 round capacity, a little unwieldy for prone and bench work.

 

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13 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

MagPul makes a mag that alows a longer COAL, for the heavies. The LR/SR20 and 25 are the "standard" ones for a 2.800" loading.  The M118 LR/SR will let you load out to 2.830

It is a good thing you never get too old to learn, cause I just learned something.  I thought the M118 LR/SR only held 5 more rounds.  Will it fit a PA10, Magpul's site didn't show it specifically?  How can I PM some of yall, I am tired of showing my ignorance to the whole net?

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It's nothing to do with ignorance, man - there's none of that.  Think about it this way - you're actually really helping the people that are too scared to ask questions, and just lurking here.  Seriously, that's the only way any of us learn anything.  I've learned more here from SS about reloading, than I ever learned reading a Hornady, Speer, and Barnes reloading manual, plus everything I could search on the 'net.  Everyone is a student, always - it's when you think you know everything, that you close your mind and stop learning...

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  Talk about old dogs & new tricks , I never used a Case Head Space Gage up until a couple years ago or less , until I had an issue  with my new MEC press , sizing LC Brass , those here who use them talked me right into it  ( pretty much told me I was an idiot , in their own way :laffs:) & now I have a Cartridge HS Gage for all my Bottle neck cartridges I load for . 

  I highly recommend them if for anything , Safety & you will know your cases will fit in the Chamber , before you load a charge or Bullet .

  To add on what 98 wrote , the Case can show a ring above the web of the base & its a Case Head separation waiting to happen , something you really don't want at the range or Hunting , I found one the other day , I see if I can find it & photograph it . 

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9 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

It's nothing to do with ignorance, man - there's none of that.  Think about it this way - you're actually really helping the people that are too scared to ask questions, and just lurking here.  Seriously, that's the only way any of us learn anything.  I've learned more here from SS about reloading, than I ever learned reading a Hornady, Speer, and Barnes reloading manual, plus everything I could search on the 'net.  Everyone is a student, always - it's when you think you know everything, that you close your mind and stop learning...

I not only learn about .308AR's and reloading here, I learn about human nature, good and bad.  Your comments make the saying, "the more people I meet the better I like my dog" a lot less true.  So thanks for advocating education and communication, the two most important tools we have.

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All of the PPU .223 Rem brass that I converted to 300BLK - first loading, they ALL did that after firing, and I caught it when I attempted to load them again.  The same load worked great in LC 5.56 brass.  I quit using the PPU brass to make 300BLK right then, and tossed all those cases in the trash.  LC only from that point on.

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98, do you have any experience with the .300BLK in an AR pistoI?  have been thinking that would make a good truck gun. It should have better range than a pistol if the need arose to stand off from a threat and be short enough to put out of sight until needed.  I would think 1-200 yards would be possible with reasonable accuracy. If you had to leave your truck in a breakdown situation carrying it in a back pack would be better than toting a rifle and calling unnecessary attention to yourself .  Anyone have thoughts on this?

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2 hours ago, Hotwrench said:

98, do you have any experience with the .300BLK in an AR pistoI?

ALOT!!!

That's my current truck gun.  9" barreled pistol. I keep it in a tennis racket case.

 

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Edited by 98Z5V
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Literally, everything about a 300BLK is AR15 parts, except for the barrel.  Use good AR15 parts and you can't go wrong.  With barrel selection what it is right now, I'd do a Faxon Firearms 9" Gunner barrel.  This one right here:

http://faxonfirearms.com/match-series-9-gunner-300-blk-5r-416-r-nitride/

They also do a 7.5" and 10.5", if you'd want either of those lengths.  They's be just as good.  You'll need something under 10" if you ever think you'll have to swing that thing around inside your vehicle, from a seat in the car/truck.

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