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first ar308 build


300grPills

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so, planning on starting my first ar build and am new to the platform.  Looking for insight on the project.

Needs/Wants-

Sub ~2500 bucks, can go a little over but i don't really want to.  Can they be Built well at this price point

lightweight/skelatonized if at all possible

this will be a short to intermediate range hunting rifle... 25~300 yds for Wisconsin Whitetail

would like to have it in a caliber i already own/reload preferably a 7mm-08 as i don't currently run a .308 in anything i own

i have been doing a fair bit of reading on the subject of building one (i'd rather not buy a complete rifle as i have built all my other hunting rifles) and am still pretty confused as not all part are on the same page fitment wise, which i found kind of odd.  haven't bought any of the parts yet but im looking at a F1 lower and upper, Any experience with these?  Good, bad or otherwise.  looking at them strictly from an aesthetic standpoint because who wants an ugly Rifle LOL?   some good reliable brands for all the little pieces?  Good barrels?  

i have a fair bit of bolt gun building experience but have never ventured into this platform so feel free to to correct any ideas i have.

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Is the $2500 with or without optics?  

How light are you wanting to go?  Many here have built sub 8lb guns under your budget.  But that is in .308.

Are there other calibers you are considering? 

The parts don't all interchange because there is not a "milspec" for large frame ARs.  Every manufacturer is free to adjust what they see fit.

There should be others along with more questions and advice shortly. 

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Just now, Armed Eye Doc said:

Is the $2500 with or without optics?  

How light are you wanting to go?  Many here have built sub 8lb guns under your budget.  But that is in .308.

Are there other calibers you are considering? 

The parts don't all interchange because there is not a "milspec" for large frame ARs.  Every manufacturer is free to adjust what they see fit.

There should be others along with more questions and advice shortly. 

i already have several optics sitting on the shelf to choose from so i likely wont be buying another.

light as in light enough to carry up and down hills while deer hunting, my current bolt gun in a shade over 12 pounds loaded and it get tiresome to carry 

id like to stick to a .308 parent case and i only run a 7mm-08 and .243 from those offerings... my bolt gun is a .243 ackley and im very impressed with performance but the barrel wear makes me not want to build another... also being ackley means i would need seperate brass to build a straight .243 gun... also not entirely averse to a new cartridge BUT id rather not have to buy new dies, brass, and bullets to load for it

that makes life confusing as hell lol... o well, such is life

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43 minutes ago, 300grPills said:

so, planning on starting my first ar build and am new to the platform.  Looking for insight on the project.

Needs/Wants-

Sub ~2500 bucks, can go a little over but i don't really want to.  Can they be Built well at this price point

lightweight/skelatonized if at all possible

this will be a short to intermediate range hunting rifle... 25~300 yds for Wisconsin Whitetail

would like to have it in a caliber i already own/reload preferably a 7mm-08 as i don't currently run a .308 in anything i own

i have been doing a fair bit of reading on the subject of building one (i'd rather not buy a complete rifle as i have built all my other hunting rifles) and am still pretty confused as not all part are on the same page fitment wise, which i found kind of odd.  haven't bought any of the parts yet but im looking at a F1 lower and upper, Any experience with these?  Good, bad or otherwise.  looking at them strictly from an aesthetic standpoint because who wants an ugly Rifle LOL?   some good reliable brands for all the little pieces?  Good barrels?  

i have a fair bit of bolt gun building experience but have never ventured into this platform so feel free to to correct any ideas i have.

 

1st of all, thank you for outlining the intended purpose clearly and right out of the gate. It makes recommendations so much easier. 

2nd, do you have a trigger preference as far as single vs. two-stage?

3rd, the F1s look amazing! Gotta do some research but they look like Armalite pattern.

TRX_F1_5912__41974.1457461151.1280.1280.

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Just now, Matt.Cross said:

 

1st of all, thank you for outlining the intended purpose clearly and right out of the gate. It makes recommendations so much easier. 

2nd, do you have a trigger preference as far as single vs. two-stage?

3rd, the F1s look amazing! Gotta do some research but they look like DPMS pattern.

TRX_F1_5912__41974.1457461151.1280.1280.

honestly i have never used a 2 stage, all my rifles to date are stock trigger groups with springwork to get them crisp and in the 2.5lb range

that is the exact combo im looking at, love the skelatanized look and weight saving is a plus... (probably sounds bad for the 6 ft 7 380 pound man to whining about weight but it is what it is)

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3 minutes ago, Matt.Cross said:

 

1st of all, thank you for outlining the intended purpose clearly and right out of the gate. It makes recommendations so much easier. 

2nd, do you have a trigger preference as far as single vs. two-stage?

3rd, the F1s look amazing! Gotta do some research but they look like Armalite pattern.

TRX_F1_5912__41974.1457461151.1280.1280.

Ok, receiver cut threw me, it's DPMS pattern.

Quote from F1:

Product Description

F-1 Firearms BDR-10-3G Receiver Set is a DPMS (High) patterned large frame receiver set applicable for larger rounds such as the .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor. This set was meticulously engineered to be as lightweight as possible, while remaining rigid and cosmetically pleasing. All areas not inherent to functionality have been stripped away, leaving a beautiful base for any build. Each set is hand finished and matched in-house, for the utmost in operational and cosmetic perfection that our customers have come to expect from us here at F-1. BDR-10-3G sets accept all MIL-SPEC (DPMS) patterned parts as well as Magpul/SR25 mags. 

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Just now, Matt.Cross said:

Is there any pressing need on your part for the receiver rail to continue forward across the hand guard?

not in the slightest, the hand guard is just there to hold the gun as best i can figure, maybe a lower rail for a bipod but i doubt i even need that

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1 hour ago, 300grPills said:

this will be a short to intermediate range hunting rifle... 25~300 yds for Wisconsin Whitetail

 

21 minutes ago, 300grPills said:

id like to stick to a .308 parent case and i only run a 7mm-08 and .243 from those offerings...

Sweet Baby Jesus, this build parameter is a godsend.

You can do that distance with a 16" barrel, in a .308 Win pattern.  You'll be a Deer Slayer at 300 yards with it.  Easy.  A 16" gun would be highly accurate at 60o yards, easy.

Then, you go and throw out the 7mm-08.  That's an 1100 yard cartridge, all day long, from a shitty gun.  Let alone an accurate one. 

I'd bet that you could build a 7mm-08 AR with a 18" barrel that would be 900/1000-yard accurate, with ease.  No kidding. Shorten that up to a 16" barrel, lose a few fps for muzzle velocity-over-trajectory, and you'd still be banging the hell out of 800 yards without a sweat. 

2-stage trigger on an AR.  World of difference for accuracy.  You're used to the bolt gun world, light pull single stage - that trigger is already pre-set. No take up.  Any pressure you apply makes it go bang, with no take up.  ARs are different. Take up the slack with the first stage, it stops.  Additional pressure/poundage sets it off.  2-stage trigger in an AR is just about mandatory for accuracy or precision. 

I have a 2.5lb TImney on my Rem 700, and it's just press-and-go.  No take up.  An animal like that, in an AR, just about doesn't exist, hence the need for a good 2-stage.

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If you're stuck on the .308 parent case...  Have you looked at the .260 Remington?...

Trajectory very similar to the 7mm-08, and a hell of alot less recoil...  I'm just sayin'...

Make your own brass from .308 brass. It's just another set of dies...

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Just now, 98Z5V said:

If you're stuck on the .308 parent case...  Have you looked at the .260 Remington?...

Trajectory very similar to the 7mm-08, and a hell of alot less recoil...  I'm just sayin'...

Make your own brass from .308 brass. It's just another set of dies...

recoil is nearly irrelevant to me.... im 6ft 7 380 and shoot a 375 rum for fun lol

 

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1 minute ago, 98Z5V said:

 

Sweet Baby Jesus, this build parameter is a godsend.

You can do that distance with a 16" barrel, in a .308 Win pattern.  You'll be a Deer Slayer at 300 yards with it.  Easy.  A 16" gun would be highly accurate at 60o yards, easy.

Then, you go and throw out the 7mm-08.  That's an 1100 yard cartridge, all day long, from a shitty gun.  Let alone an accurate one. 

I'd bet that you could build a 7mm-08 AR with a 18" barrel that would be 900/1000-yard accurate, with ease.  No kidding. Shorten that up to a 16" barrel, lose a few fps for muzzle velocity-over-trajectory, and you'd still be banging the hell out of 800 yards without a sweat. 

2-stage trigger on an AR.  World of difference for accuracy.  You're used to the bolt gun world, light pull single stage - that trigger is already pre-set. No take up.  Any pressure you apply makes it go bang, with no take up.  ARs are different. Take up the slack with the first stage, it stops.  Additional pressure/poundage sets it off.  2-stage trigger in an AR is just about mandatory for accuracy or precision. 

I have a 2.5lb TImney on my Rem 700, and it's just press-and-go.  No take up.  An animal like that, in an AR, just about doesn't exist, hence the need for a good 2-stage.

just a simple wisconsin deer hunter guy, i like to hit what i aim at every time and i hate trailing deer, so theres that

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If the distance is that short, and you're looking at a .308 parent case, have you considered a .338 Federal?  I built up a 16" .338 Fed as a pig gun, but I haven't been able to put it on any pigs yet.

 

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