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Posted

Hi i got to share this with everyone. I purchased 2 new dpms lr308 20" and 16"

I got a little crazy and bought 2 jpenhanced 308 bolts from brownells. well i installed them didnt get a chance to try them out until this past weekend.

So i loaded my brand new mags i brought and tried both. released the bolt catch and the bolt didnt full close, hmmm. thats right i slammed partly closed, i extracted the round and tried another round, let the bolt catch go and the bolt didnt fully close. was it my ammo i am using 7.62x51 yugo, then tried 308 winchester same thing. could my bolt be incompatable. i called jpenterprises and i must say they were excellent. we spoke about 10 minutes going through different causes. I agreed to purchase a go/no and field gauge and see the result. well i just remove my ejector, opened my new go gauge dropped it in and let the bolt go. no close so then i tried pressing a little on the back of the carrier still it wouldnt close, I remove th go gauge and the bolt closed fully with a little pressure on the carrier.

can someone suggest the reason for this, rather than having my chamber reamed i going to use the oem dpms bolts.

Posted

I MIGHT CALL JP AGAIN AND MENTION LAPPING THE BOLT TO THEM, I DONT REALLY WANT TO CUT THE CHAMBER. WORSE COMES TO WORSE I JUST GO BACK TO THE DPMS BOLT AND HOPEFULLY BROWNELLS WILL TAKE BACK THOSE JP BOLTS

Posted

I agreed to purchase a go/no and field gauge and see the result. well i just remove my ejector, opened my new go gauge dropped it in and let the bolt go.

First, don't EVER slam a Go/No Go gauge into battery by the bolt release.  EVER.

That's one way to really screw up a semi-auto firearm.  You RIDE the bolt carrier forward on the gauge, and if it doesn't seat, you have a problem.

Hope you haven't done anything worse to the rifle by doing that, besides whatever issue it already has.  Chances are, you've done more damage to it by doing that.

Posted

I MIGHT CALL JP AGAIN AND MENTION LAPPING THE BOLT TO THEM, I DONT REALLY WANT TO CUT THE CHAMBER. WORSE COMES TO WORSE I JUST GO BACK TO THE DPMS BOLT AND HOPEFULLY BROWNELLS WILL TAKE BACK THOSE JP BOLTS

What are you gonna lap? 

Posted

The bolt should not be altered.

Does the original DPMS bolt work? Some of the se DPMS weapons are tight new. I had one that had issues. I greased up the bolt lugs and cyclyed the action on an empty chamber a shit load of times. Solved the issue. I also head a boly carrier where the bolt was very tight and had difficulty rotating

  Brownells has an AGI video that explains how to properly verify headspace. It's a little dated and quite boring but worth it for that section alone.

Posted

First, don't EVER slam a Go/No Go gauge into battery by the bolt release.  EVER.

That's one way to really screw up a semi-auto firearm.  You RIDE the bolt carrier forward on the gauge, and if it doesn't seat, you have a problem.

Hope you haven't done anything worse to the rifle by doing that, besides whatever issue it already has.  Chances are, you've done more damage to it by doing that.

Correct, but he did say he put more pressure on the BC to see if it would seat & you could only do that if the rifle was shot guned . Unless it was after he tried to seat it with the buffer spring ?

AS said above , use lots of lube ,on new builds I always use Gun Slick grease , its black nasty stuff ,but helps work the action in if stiff.

Lube it up & work the action until its smooth .

I have used lapping compound on some builds , but they are very very few of them . Mostly to smooth out burr's in the barrel extension lugs , since you can't get at them in most places.

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