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Looking for help with 200 yard hunting/range rifle


hardrock

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Hello,

Im looking to build/buy a .308 DPMS rifle to use for both the range and for hunting. The max range of both would be 200 yards, and I would only be hunting deer.

I would like some suggestions on not only lowers but also barrels as well. One of the big issues, is that I live in NY, and I dont know if I can justify the cost of a great $300 lower just to have to mutilate it with epoxy to make it NY compliant. On the other hand, I dont want a non compatible lower and upper, and know that if I cheap out on the lower, it will affect the rest of the rifle.

Any help would be appreciated, and I am all ears on suggestions.

Thank you,

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for a 200 yard range, i'd go with a 14.5 barrel with a pinned muzzle brake to make it hit 16. then go with a nice light stock. even at that barrel length, you'd get good performance to 500 yards.

 

for a 200 yard range, i'd go with a 14.5 barrel with a pinned muzzle brake to make it hit 16. then go with a nice light stock. even at that barrel length, you'd get good performance to 500 yards.

Thank you, I didn't realize such a short barrel could achieve those results. I am used to shooting quarter sized groupings with my bolt .17 HMR at 100 yards. I know this rifle will be different, but will that type of setup allow me to achieve similar results? I'm not looking for quarter sized groupings out of this rifle , but another site mentioned I could consistently hit a 10" steel plate which didn't seem so impressive.

Edited by hardrock
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If you can't make shards of  the clay pigeon remnants disappear on the back berm, then there is something wrong with either rifle, ammo, or shooter.  And that is from an unsupported standing position. This is being done with old Mosin Nagants shooting milsurp ammo, Ruger bolts with either iron sights or scout scope, ratty old Romanian AK, or (ta-da) a 16" APF carbine in 308.  One doesn't need a long barrel to make a rifle accurate, just the assemblage of parts correctly to produce the most accuracy.  I have found that I prefer a shorter barrel over the long tubes, for anything under what EasyEJL said, handling is much nicer than the longer tubes.

I am not trying to hammer on you personally, but most any rifle out there should be able to hit that 10" plate without trying.....

 

Hell, I do think I can do that with my old Colt 1991A1.....and I think I have found a challenge for me to try....

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Hello,

Im looking to build/buy a .308 DPMS rifle to use for both the range and for hunting. The max range of both would be 200 yards, and I would only be hunting deer.

I would like some suggestions on not only lowers but also barrels as well. One of the big issues, is that I live in NY, and I dont know if I can justify the cost of a great $300 lower just to have to mutilate it with epoxy to make it NY compliant. On the other hand, I dont want a non compatible lower and upper, and know that if I cheap out on the lower, it will affect the rest of the rifle.

Any help would be appreciated, and I am all ears on suggestions.

Thank you,

Here's a link for who I use:

Alex Pro Firearms

 

They make parts for DPMS.....receivers, bolts, ect.

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If you can't make shards of  the clay pigeon remnants disappear on the back berm, then there is something wrong with either rifle, ammo, or shooter.  And that is from an unsupported standing position. This is being done with old Mosin Nagants shooting milsurp ammo, Ruger bolts with either iron sights or scout scope, ratty old Romanian AK, or (ta-da) a 16" APF carbine in 308.  One doesn't need a long barrel to make a rifle accurate, just the assemblage of parts correctly to produce the most accuracy.  I have found that I prefer a shorter barrel over the long tubes, for anything under what EasyEJL said, handling is much nicer than the longer tubes.

I am not trying to hammer on you personally, but most any rifle out there should be able to hit that 10" plate without trying.....

 

Hell, I do think I can do that with my old Colt 1991A1.....and I think I have found a challenge for me to try....

I appreciate the information. My point on the 10" target was that on another forum, they made it seem like that was an accomplishment on the rifle I wanted to build. I like accuracy and appreciate a well built tool, hence my questioning.

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No worries.  FWIW, I need to put in way more trigger time with this new 308 before I can shoot up to it's inherent accuracy potential.  Mine is the standard "308 carbine" as listed in APF'S rifle section.  Right now it is wearing a set of DD fixed irons for sights, a Rhodesian sling, and a Smith Enterprise Good Iron brake on order...that should be about the extent of mods to rifle. It shoots very well, and I couldn't be happier with it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I appreciate the information. My point on the 10" target was that on another forum, they made it seem like that was an accomplishment on the rifle I wanted to build. I like accuracy and appreciate a well built tool, hence my questioning.

I appreciate the information. My point on the 10" target was that on another forum, they made it seem like that was an accomplishment on the rifle I wanted to build. I like accuracy and appreciate a well built tool, hence my questioning.

I wouldn't call that much of an accomplishment either....

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Thank you, I didn't realize such a short barrel could achieve those results. I am used to shooting quarter sized groupings with my bolt .17 HMR at 100 yards. I know this rifle will be different, but will that type of setup allow me to achieve similar results? I'm not looking for quarter sized groupings out of this rifle , but another site mentioned I could consistently hit a 10" steel plate which didn't seem so impressive.

really at 200 yards it hardly matters. Yes, you are loosing 200fps. but given 308 ballistics unless you are shooting 180gr+ you're still staying at the 2500fps mark, and probably only dropping to 2300ish at 200 yards. with a good short barrel you should still be able to put down less than 2" groups at 200 yards.

 

308-optimum-barrel-length-chart.jpg

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