Dusty44

When I put the CAA grip on my LR-308 originally, I struggled with that spring. This is apparently a problem with almost any grip on an AR308. The M-15 only has one spring to deal with. Find where the rear spring touches the top of the grip. It is an easy measurement. Drill a hole 3/32 inch diameter and 3/32 inch deep. This will give the spring a seat and reassembly will be easy. Everybody seems to be concerned that the extra space will cause the spring to not have enough tension. That is so much ___________. The spring is already almost twice as long as it needs to be. Just drill out the spring seat. When I did mine, the drill (of course; what else?) dove right in about a half-inch. I looked around, found a fast-food soda straw in the trash, cut off the right length, slit the little tube lengthwise and rolled it up and pushed it into the hole to fill the excess space. Black polymer grip with the high-tech red spring seat (the grip comes with a seat for the front spring) and easy to put the grip into position.

I have a CAA grip on both my LR-308 and my M-15. Would not have anything else. 3 inserts for the front, 3 inserts for the back, configure it to your preference. Internal storage. Buy at Brownells. There is a picture in this forum somewhere showing my LR-308 with that CAA grip. Or, go to our sibling forum, Tactical22.net: 'General,' 'Plunging In,' scroll down to the picture of my M-15. Click on the pic to make it really big if you want. Read my blurb to see what I said about the CAA grip.

[table][tr][td] #10 04-18-2012, 12:07 PM[/td][/tr][tr][td][table][tr][td][table][tr][td]dakota1911 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: The Great American Desert Posts: 5,619 [/td][/tr][/table][/td][/tr][tr][td] My grandfather who was in WWI said he liked the Colt 1911 because when you ran out of ammo you still had a piece of pipe with a handle. I have owned about every Glock and do not like them that much. If you like 1911s over Glocks the link below might be fun. Live through the 30 second or so and and the rest is good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdxrl...&feature=share The fun part is the only Glocks I still own are mod 36's. I like them, but most of my Glock loving friends hate them. Go figure. Blocks. No grip safety. No thumb safety. Nothing but you and the "twinkle trigger" between you and bang. __________________ NRA Life Member [/td][/tr][/table][/td][/tr][/table]

I have a factory DPMS with free float tube, 24 inch stainless fluted barrel. It prints under 2 inches, mostly under 1 1/2 inches at 100 yards. If I had a really top-grade scope on it and if I could shoot at all well, the rifle is capable of a lot better than that. Most of my groups are two or three holes touching or nearly so and a flier or two. Not the rifle's fault. I have a lot of posts in this forum talking about this rifle.

With an action long enough for the 300 Win Mag, the next step is the .416 in one of the shorter cartridges. 400 or 450 gr boattail solid at 2500 fps, rate of fire -- ??. Rate of poverty . . . . . . asymptotic? (Have you priced that ammo?) Gonna need the hydraulic buffer and a hydraulic & pneumatic butt pad shock absorber, especially if that thing decides to go full auto!!

My DPMS came with an A2 stock. I put a $30 (?) Limbsaver butt pad on it that I modified to fit. For me, there is no felt recoil.

Your buffer tube needs be wet & slippery inside, also. Very smooth consistent operation of the buffer. Hoot posted a method for adding weight to your BCG in this forum also (somewhere!). Alternatively, heavy factory carrier or heavy buffer.

I started with a factory, off-the-shelf AR 308 Win rifle. Then I did the mods I wanted. I always had a functional rifle (other than the few minutes spent changing parts). Circumstances recently made me add a functional factory off-the-shelf M-15 to my collection. I am still doing those small mods but am close to having another rifle I want and like. There is no way I would let go of either rifle. If I felt sufficient motivation to have another style or kind of gun, I would buy one, or the parts and build it. If I had to sell an existing gun to buy a new one, or trade an existing gun, I would do (and have done) without the new one. Pardon my use of the generic term gun. My collection includes black powder and contemporary cartridge rifles and handguns of more kinds than you want to know. The inclusive term is gun.

My long-barrel DPMS does fine with 150 gr (or so) commercial ammo. It seems to like heavier bullets better and I shoot up to 190 gr, handloads and commercial. The only ammo that does not do well is some Brown Bear 140 gr. that was on sale. The Brown Bear prints an 8 inch pattern at 100 yards. Everything else prints under 2 inches consistently, might do better if someone who could shoot well was holding the rifle. <laughs> I think the problem with the 140 gr ammo is the OAL. I think the bullets have to jump too far to reach the rifling. This 140 gr Brown Bear does well in my Rem 700 and Savage 11. I think bullet weight in the 308 Win should be kept between the military 147 gr and about 180 gr max. Heavier bullets are intended for bigger cartridges and guns like the 300 magnums. The serious competition shooters using 308 Win seem to prefer bullet weights in the 160's to mid 170's and when I have used up my sample quantities of bullets I will settle into a single bullet in this range. I also think barrel length, from 16 to 26 inches, only affects measured velocity -- 10 feet or so from the muzzle -- and not by much. Idiosyncrasies of the specific rifle are more significant. Just my opinion (no humble: my signs are Leo and Metal Dragon! <laughs> <lmao> ).

The link below is for information that popped up during a perusal of the Vortex Optics site. Read all the way through it. What you might learn may be surprising. Some of what was said surprised me; a little different from the 'conventional wisdom' in most of the gun magazine articles. If you are intending to buy a scope, your very first or another one, reading this might be time well spent. http://www.opticsplanet.net/how-to-choose-riflescope.html

Retired. Do after school care for my grandchildren. Did: 8 years Air Force including a year in RVN. 2 decades company driver, 18-wheelers, non-union companies. 15 years maintaining/repairing industrial production machinery, union. Retired because of health.

One of the fun things about old surplus ammo is how many are going to fire at all? Surplus ammo is usually sold because there are problems. New surplus ammo is not close enough to spec; older ammo is corroded from poor storage; ammo as old as this is both corroded and the primers and maybe powder won't work. Not all of this at once except sometimes. I would not touch ammo I did not have some reason to feel at least some confidence about. My ammo, surplus or otherwise, comes from reputable suppliers who will have reason to check out whatever they sell. What you said about your seller would make me run the other way.

My 10/22 is almost a worst-case example. The first two rounds go in random strange directions. Then, with the metal warmed a bit, the rest of the shots group close together. For 'fun' target shooting it is easy to disregard the two fliers or to shoot a few warm-up rounds at a different target. If dinner depended on that rifle taking a squirrel or rabbit, there would be a lot of hungry days. I think that some of the reason is warm lube within the gun (more pronounced in something like this blow-back rimfire) that causes mechanisms to move more slowly when cold (the bolt might not close as tightly by a few thousandths; the first two cartridges might not slip into place as easily or not quite completely at all until the chamber has expanded its diameter from heating?) and some is expansion and contraction of the bore diameter as the steel warms and cools. An engineering analysis (a link here somewhere) discussed droop of the muzzle and harmonic movements of the barrel. All that might change with temperature of the steel and as the bore and external diameters changed with heating, also? I have wondered for some time if a heater of some kind that could bring a specialty rifle to a consistent working temperature, a temperature similar to how hot the rifle might be after a dozen (?) rounds in a relatively short time and keep the rifle at that temperature, might be desirable for critical Police sniper work and perhaps for some kinds of shooting competition? (Or, pack the rifle in dry ice and keep the rate of fire slow enough that every shot is from that super cold condition. <lmao>) Clearly, as already said by others, for a target or competition rifle where many shots will usually be fired in a limited time, sights need be set at 'warm rifle' POI. For hunting or Police/Military sniper work, the sights need show POI for that cold gun first or only shot.

It is well into April as this is written. Go to our small-caliber forum Tactical22.Net. Find "Plunging In" for the outcome of this.

Local official word for North Texas is the bugs are coming. No cold to kill them. Bring your African Double Rifles and hunt ticks . . . real soon. Tornadoes today straddled me. 10 miles East, 10 miles West. A lot of heavy rain. Mostly worried about the grandchildren in school. Kind of felt like RVN, wondering where the next rocket would land? Didn't even drop electric power today, not for even a blink. Hope all the rest of us in the way of this storm are and were that lucky. Recall the comment of a waitress out in a West Texas truck stop when I was pushing 18-wheelers: she said if the winters were mild on the high plains the tornadoes in the Spring would make up for it. She would rather cope with snow and ice. With this past winter in mind, it may be a very long Spring for all of us. Texas and everywhere else.

I think it is a great idea. It would be very difficult to keep updated. Most of the upper and lower receiver castings are, according to some text within the "80%" thread, made by one or two companies to the same specs. The differences are minor variations in how mating edges are machined or in the position and size of pins and some internal parts. Patent avoidance. The solution is easy. Either buy the upper & lower set from the same company at the same time or ask the companies before buying if the parts and assemblies are compatible. At least some of this information is included in the product descriptions I read. Another possibility is to buy complete rifles and modify them. Put the OEM parts in storage (Zip Locks?) with identification (Description of the rifle with serial numbers).

None of mine are for sale. I often have more scopes than rifles, but then a new rifle appears and needs the extra scope? To keep costs down, buying a refurbished scope would seem to me to be a very good thing. The tube and most parts do not often suffer harm. New seals will have been put in place and the lenses properly attached where they should be and replaced if needed. Leupold and most of the major brands do not care who owns the scope. The warranties are always in place for the new offerings; check out the warranties for refurbished. For $300-$400 an excellent new scope can be purchased. In the catalogs/fliers the refurbished scopes are significantly discounted. I said this in another thread: A scope in the price range we are discussing is as good as scopes get. That is the opinion of a person well-placed in the optics industry. There will be niceties of course as the prices go exponential. A 50 MM or 60 MM objective will gather more light. Are you planning on shooting varmints in dark or near-dark? If so, then a big objective and a 30 MM tube will be better. So will an illuminated reticle of some sort. But out in bright sun, too much light might be a problem and electrical components need care and have their own drawbacks. Very expensive glass will perform better, but to such a small degree that most of us would have to have it explained in exact detail and then would only be meaningful in direct comparison with other optics. It also might only matter if your eyes are good enough to be able to use the very slight edge. Most shooting is well below 300 yards. If you have experience and known talent for shooting out there in the 500 yard/meter and far beyond distances, great!, but if not then it is something to work up to. Most of us are kidding ourselves about what we can do. All I know is I do a passable-- but not a great job-- of killing paper at 50 and 100 yards. But only with a scope. It would be nice to know what would happen at 200 yards and if I could even hit a barn from the inside at 300 yards? Much of what I say comes from gun magazines. Most articles in those magazines are by people who are paid by the word or inch of column. What they write is Infomercials. Once in awhile I find something that rings as being true or valid. I try to repeat the best of what I think is true and valid. Writers who have told the tale of their efforts at long-range shooting and interviews with people who are technically qualified are reflected in what I said above. My memory is as faulty as anyone's. Use your common sense and be careful how you spend your money.

Which SRP do you use for your 223/5.56? Some threads in other forums have discussed a preference for CCI 41 primers. WSR and CCI 450 have been mentioned. Some reloaders like magnum primers for the heavier cup metal and there has been mention of slam fire with some specific individual's rifles and some primers. What is your preference and your experience with the primers you have used?

I load for three 308 Win rifles. Two bolt actions and the DPMS. Fired casings from one of the bolts and the AR do fine in all three rifles with neck resizing. Fired casings from the other bolt will work in all three rifles but: In the other bolt it is necessary to force the bolt closed. The AR seems to have enough force from the BCG to close and lock. I do not use fired brass from the first rifle in the other two (except for the minimal experimentation to determine what would work) because I do not want to have problems at the range and am nervous about what the tight fit may mean. I have purchased several kinds of gauges to check the chambers but need fired casings from each rifle. Currently that is not possible. Otherwise, neck sizing is sufficient as long as I keep the brass separated into two groups. For my new M-15 I have bought a Hornady two-die full-length resizing & loading set. I have not had an opportunity to shoot this new rife and have not yet opened the package of dies. Or bought components for reloading.

Subscribe to the internet feeds from Brownells, Sinclair, Impact Guns (these three are all Brownells Group); then MidwayUSA and Sportsmans Guide. I see benchrest stands and bags of all kinds, bipods, monopods, 'sandbags' (or whatever they really are) of several designs and types, etc., advertised real often. As always, use common sense when considering a purchase.

Read the advertising for manufacturers of the scopes you are interested in and scan for warranty information. Then do an internet (Google?) search for the information. Like, "Warranty for used XYZ scopes?" I always consider that sellers of guns and scopes (and most of the other stuff) on the auction sites are selling because there is a problem with the item. Or, they are running some kind of business and the source of the items may be questionable. I do not know what your price range is. I have good, working scopes priced from $70 (in a bubble pak!) to more than $300. Brands like Leupold, Simmons, Nikon (as examples) are all good, warranties are mostly "Lifetime." Prices that run in the $Thousands are for professionals and those for whom the price is not a concern. All the reputable brand manufacturers have excellent products at lower prices that you can buy new. Many Reputable Internet vendors have "refurbished" brand-name items at much lower prices. Check and see what you can find at the Brownells group and maybe other places like MidwayUSA. (And link to Brownells through the ad in this forum, please!) Anything you read on the Internet should be viewed with a jaundiced eye. The poster may be doing his best or may be leading you down a twisted alley. Including this little blast of noise. Use your own common sense, liberally.

Several years back I was poking around the internet for gun information and came across some good videos in the S&W site. Mainly it said the key to good revolver shooting is to hold the grip as high as your hand can manage (staying clear of the hammer spur). Smiths are made for that and doing it improved my shooting a lot. A grip like a SAA is mostly hang on and good luck. I will check out the Merit eye device. Thank's for the tip.

Price registers to me as about the same as a "replacement for your broken OEM CH" ad I saw somewhere. I will buy one of these for my M-15 and one for my LR-308.

Tight or loose magazines is not what matters. It is where and how the loaded cartridge at the top of the magazine is positioned. Steel magazines work if the lips are adjusted properly, which can be a good trick, and if the follower is moving properly within the mag. PMags are molded so the lips are always adjusted properly and there are several other things about the molded shapes at the top of the mag which would be either impossible or very expensive to do with steel. The followers in PMags are engineered to stay straight and level much better than most other followers. (PMag followers are available separately for steel mags.) AR style mags should be loose, at least some. The basic concept is that these mags would be used once in combat. Press the release, the empty mag is gone, jam another loaded mag into place and keep shooting. A location where there has been a combat firefight would presumably be littered with empty cartridge cases and empty magazines. Tighter fits relate to private, individual, and competition use where proper fit and precision feed might relate to more precise shooting and to reuseability of the mags.

Maybe my hands and wrists have just lost too much ability to 'feel,' but the recoil does not hurt at all during shooting or later. The other thing is that I only fired a total of 27 rounds of 44 and 47 rounds of 357 (counting the fired cases) plus the few (factory) 45 ACP's and most of those were light power target loads. I did use up all the time I had available that day. When the range goes green it is for both the rifle and handgun sides and there's lot's of time to put notes on my handgun targets, change targets, put that blue tape on target backs so different groups do not get confused. AHhhhh. . . . I am cheeep, but the blue tape is usually quicker than changing a target and also I do not want to waste a target that only has 2 to 5 (new?) holes scattered across it when I am zeroing something like a scope (rifles) or experimenting with handloads. Taped holes do not confuse the issue and it is very interesting when I find a new hole through the tape where there was a hole from a prior series. I am amused by the expressions around me when I put 4 targets on a backing board. Initially I know they are wondering if it is so I can even hit all that paper; then when I put decent groups in the middle of each target with different guns there is something else. I don't think it is respect, but something. I cannot walk fast and on the rifle range I am always the very last to get back to the firing line. I did go back to the range with all my 308's and a pile of handload and factory ammo to shoot. There is an anti-gun harassment lawsuit in progress; EPA is involved; rifles 30 caliber and larger may not be fired by court order. I was sent home quite unfulfilled. I have acquired a 5.56 AR and will be taking it to the range soon. If you are interested in that story and can stand a lot of 'noise,' go to "Plunging In" in Tactical22.net (the small-caliber sibling to this forum).