Jgun

This has already been stated by the other posters, but, I think that you'd do well to decide how important accuracy at 1000M is to you vs how often you expect to be shooting out to 800 and less. Bottom line, when your looking to build a gun to shoot accurately at 1000, your starting to get into the area where the the things you might want to do, Heavy/long barrels, heavier fixed stocks, high magnification, large/heavy optics, make the gun less versitile. I think that there are people out there that can do amazing things with an average rifle, but if Your planning to shoot, and hunt, at shorter distances predominantly, with just occasional 1K meter steel shooting, I'd opt to build the gun for the other stuff and just see how well you can do with a high power optic. I'd vote for an 18" barrel over the 20", unless you plan to be shooting Plus 800M more than minus 800. I just got a 20" barrel in the mail today, and it's sold as a varmint/tactical barrel, which means that it's a heavy (but not bull barrel) profile, and I have to tell you, this is a HEAVY barrel. One thing I like about it though, is that the front isn't as large OD as other heavy profile barrels Ive seen, so I'm hoping that the weight won't feel like it's way out front, once I get it mounted.

Could you give us further information?, what bolt carrier group are you using, what mags did you test, etc. From what you've posted it sounds as though yours saying that the mag is too low and the bolt is not stripping a rd when it comes forward. Have you checked the mag catch to see if there might be something wrong with it that's allowing the mag to sit lower? You say you've tried 3 mags, how do you find their fit in the mag well to be, is there up and down play? If you use the charging handle to slowly allow the bolt carrier to come forward, do you see the bolt "ride" over the top of the back of the cartridge when it comes forward?

Yes, I was told that it would be Armalite pattern, rifle length. But, since a headspaced bolt is included, all that means to me is that I have to order an Armalite, rifle length gas tube (which is about .250" longer than DPMS/SR-25 rifle length tube). Not really a big deal. My upper is threaded for the DPMS barrel nut thread, and the SWS handguard's barrel nut is DPMS pattern, but the barrel doesn't care what barrel nut is holding it. I've already got a .308 AR I put together, using a MA TEN receiver set (DPMS pattern), SWS rail (DPMS barrel nut), with a Noveske .308 Afghan barrel (Armalite pattern) and an Armalite bolt carrier group. The only things that I don't do are mix AR 10 BCGs with DPMS pattern barrels, or DPMS BCGs with Armalite pattern barrels, specifically the barrel extensions.

As mrraley points out, a warranty is a good thing to have when you have around 2K invested in a rifle. But I have to tell you, there is a certain amount of satisfaction that one derives from being able to diagnose a problem with your own gun, (because you're the one that built it) and remedying it, vs boxing it up and sending it back to the Mfg, for a tech, that may have less mechanical aptitude than you, to diagnose and correct the problem, hopefully getting it right the first time.

You know what they say about opinions, so take this with a grain of salt and don't pay too much attention to my preferences. I just bought the PRS, and although it's pretty heavy, I think the LOP and cheek riser adjustments make it superior to the A2 if you're going with a fixed butt stock. I also just ordered a LW Vartac barrel, and although it was not the exact barrel I would have special ordered, the savings, and the fact that it's an in stock item, were to good to pass up. I think that if you call them up and speak to Woody, he'll b able to help you select a contour that you will be happy with. By the way, don't forget to post some pics of the finished progect. good luck with it.

orbela, If you've decided to go the build it yourself route, there are certain tools that you will need to buy as you go (unless you've got friends that already have them). You'll need a reciever vise block (to hold the upper while you're installing the barrel) along with a bench vise to hold it in, you'll need a barrel nut wrench that fits the type of barrel nut you end up using, you'll need a number of punches to install roll pins, and a few other tools such as a castle nut wrench, if installing a collapsing stock. The main thing that you have to pay attention to is parts compatibility, certain stock choices will require a particular type of buffer for the gun to function properly, You also will want to have the chamber headspace checked before shooting the gun. The members here can walk you through it, and none of it is especially difficult, it just requires a certain amount of patience, and interest in the mechanics of the gun. If you like to play around with mechanical things, building your own can be a rewarding experience, if, on the other hand, your only reason for building vs buying, is to try and save some money, or avoid paying up front for the complete gun, by buying your parts one at a time, you may find that the whole thing turns out to be an exercise in frustration for you. Understand that, as with all things mechanical, you will have to deal with parts that don't always fit exactly as expected. One other thing to consider, a factory built gun will generally bring a higher price at resale, than a home built, should you elect to sell it later on.

I don't think so. I have a DPMS pattern, rifle length gas system, .308 AR. The front of my my low pro gas block is just covered by a Larue AR 10 rail that is marked 13.2, but actually measures closer to 13.875" from the front of the upper to the front of the rail. Besides this, the Armalite rifle length gas port location is approximately .250" further forward than the DPMS rifle length, if I remember correctly, so I'd say that a 12" rail will not only NOT cover your GB, your going to have some of your gas tube exposed as well. If your looking to cover the gas block with that rail, I think you'd have to go with a carbine length gas system.

Nothing yet, but it's only been a week so far. Since I've settled on my caliber, and already have the parts that determine what the style of the gun will be and how it will look more or less, I've been trying to come up with some things that might make this build more interesting for me. I'm not in all that much of a hurry. I was told by the people at Youngs, that they will be offering .308 carriers very soon. I like their AR 15 carriers that I've used, so I may try one. Think I'll go with the XH rifle buffer. Trigger is still undecided, but there are lots of good ones to choose from these days. I'm planning to make my own pivot and takedown pins, and I'm considering lapping the upper. I am also thinking about having the barrel melonited, along with possibly the carrier as well. I'm just not sure if I should assemble it and test for accuracy first, (probably) or have it treated first and assemble the gun once. Iv'e also read posts where people say it's better to break in the barrel before meloniteing, Guess I'll have to see what the guy I'm using has to say about it.

I was wasn't that impressed with the Magpul BUIS when I first saw them. I guess I'm just a dinosaur, and have trouble accepting the idea that "plastic" parts can actually be any good, having nothing to do with fact, but after reading this, I think I'm going to pick up a set to try out, certainly like the price of them compared to the others out there. I think I need to get over my plastic gun issues, since I'm using plastic mags almost exclusively in my ARs these days

I'm still waiting for clarification from the OP. I read that he says, only way to chamber it is to lock bolt back and hit the bolt release, that sounds like he's saying it needs a running start to get the bullet to make the "jump" into the chamber. Don't the 6.5's have a steeper angle at the shoulder than .308? If he's talking about the shoulder hitting the lugs during chambering, it would sound like an alignment issue. Certainly playing with the mags would be a safer option than permanently altering the barrel.

I've never done a 6.5 conversion, but for my possible future plans this interests me. I'm not sure I understand you completely. Are you saying that when you slowly allow the bolt to go forward, the bolts llocking lugs are damaging the rim of the case when it strips it from the magazine, or are you saying that the bottom of the barrel extension is catching the shoulder of the case (where it necks down) when the rd comes forward and contacts them. If the latter, I would think that either your mag is low, rd is not aligned with the bore properly, (maybe mag feed lips?) or as you say, if everything is aligned as it should be, then perhaps the fix (as you say) would be to do some work on the lower locking lugs of the barrel extension. If your using the same mags as the .308, can you take a dummy .308 rd, load a mag part way, slowly bring the bolt forward, and watch carfully as the rd is brought forward. I understand that you can't chamber a .308 rd in this barrel, but can't you see if the shoulder of the .308 is aligned so that the shoulder will not hit the barrels locking lugs? If on the other hand, the 6.5 is angled downward, and it's shoulder is hitting the barrels locking lugs, I would think you need to either do something to the mag to get the bullet better aligned with the bore, or do the work on the barrel extension that your suggesting.

Let me know how the fit is over the barrel Matt.

I came across these Troy gas blocks while looking for a lowpro .875" for a project. They look to be about as minimal as you can get. They also have a .936" version. If anyone has tried them maybe you could post how you found the fit to be. http://troyind.com/%20/rail-systemsaccessories/rail-accessories/low-profile-gas-blocks/936-low-profile-gas-block

I'd say that you could easily put one together, or buy one, for under $2500, but not sure about including the suppressor in that price as they're usually up near $1000 alone for a good one. by the way, don't know if your in good shape, but if I'm reading your post correctly, I think your talking about a long, heavy gun for hunting if your planning to run a suppressor on a gun with a 24" barrel. As far as building vs buying, most here agree that you can't build one cheaper than you can buy, unless you do some serious bargain hunting for parts on the forums, but you can put one together in a configuration that isn't comercially available, such as a certain handguard or barrel. Something else to consider, You'll be able to get lots of good advice on this forum on building one, but you need to be honest with yourself about your mechanical abillity. Do YOU think you can put one together?

Team Helotes, can you tell me if your barrel was bright or bead blasted? I forgot to ask them. I'm guessing that they come bright as machined.

I've heard nothing but good things about the LW barrels from my AR 15 3gun friends. I've been wanting to try one of their barrels for a while. I'm not sure how long it will take for me to have this one ready for the range. Even though I don't have too many parts left to buy, the heavy buffer, bolt carrier, and trigger that I've got in mind, will add up, so I'll just have to see how business goes this summer. I've really got to stop building guns and start saving for optics, At this point, quality glass is the thing that I'm really lacking.

ordered the 20" .308 Lothar Walther barrel today. I think the fact that they include a headspaced bolt with it may have influenced my final decision somewhat. Thanks for your input Team H.

PRS got here tonight and having never used one before, I must say it's a pretty neat stock. Heavy as hell but rock solid and the click LOP and cheek riser adjustments seem very well done. I guess I'm just going to have to get used to this being a big (long), heavy, rifle, but with the 20" barrel I ordered it wasn't going to be compact anyway.

For me, the significant thing is that the carbon is tough enough that it didn't get marked by the cinder block, and that the bond of the CF to the steel is strong enough that it didn't delaminate. I've always wondered just how strong mine is, but as you guys say, I'm not about to do destructive testing to find out. As far as the point of aim changing, I'd be inclined to attribute that to the barrel screwing on in a slightly different orientation to the receiver/optic. I don't think barrel threads are designed to work like piccatinny rails as far as repeatability of zero. As for the groups, it might be the blank they used, or the shooter, because my ABS barrel shoots better groups at 100M than that (when I take my time)

There's a LAR 8 predator for sale over on the M14 forum for $1150 if you can stretch that far.

I have to admit that when I first read the title of the thread, before I actually read the post, I was expecting to see some graphic pictures of carnage that had befallen someones AR, kind of relieved when I found out what it was actually about, but you had me going for a minute there.

The post about ordering the barrel and having it 8 days later sounds like some sort of urban legend. i thought that every part I order is supposed to be backordered, or delayed by miltary contracts if I'm ordering custom. It puts me in a awkward position, I don't presently have the cash to buy the barrel, but thought I'd get a deposit down if I were special ordering something. I'm going to give LW a call this week and find out what I'm looking at for one of them, along with if they are able to ship one that fast right now. I think that if they can deliver, I'll see if I can make it happen in July.

Great looking gun! Just HOW accurate was it at 200?

As 98 says, that's one nice setup you've got there Drew. I'm still waiting to hear your range report on the others you've posted on. Don't you have a suppressed 300BLK? I'd really like to hear how that one runs. I keep hearing that R Silvers says that the rd is best suited to suppressed operation.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I've already got a Noveske .308 AR barrel along with one on one of my AR 15's, so I know that they're great barrels. I'm just wondering if a barrel chambered to my specs (tight) would possibly show any measurable accuracy advantage over the Noveske or the Ultramatch, or equivilant. I've heard good things about the Walthar Lothar barrels, and a buddy of mine swears that the one he had made for his AR 15 is the best barrel he's ever had, but He's using it for 3 gun not long range. Team Helotes, can you tell me how long it took to get your barrel after you placed your order?