Jgun

I also, feel for you with this fiasco. I'm still not sure if your problem is due to a part/parts that are out of tolerance in your rifle, or a design fault with it. I personally, have had no experience with the CMMG .308's, but I have seen posts (as you have) from people that have had both good and bad luck with them. Disregarding your added frustration because this is your only rifle, and because it is so important to you as therapy, I think that when you buy a complete gun there is a reasonable expectation (sounds like legaleze) that it will function as intended, just like buying a new car, while on the other hand, when we build them, we sometimes encounter problems due to parts compatability, tolerance stacking, or just builder assembly mistakes, but we understand that at the outset. I hope that the company does the right thing for you, and if they can't, that they give you a refund. I don't know if this makes any sense to you, and I know you enjoy shooting your gun, but since you've had problems with an off the shelf gun, perhaps you might want to consider trying your hand at putting one together. If you can adjust your mindset so that you can get the same type of satisfaction by working on your gun, that you do from shooting it, the process of building your own could become very rewarding for you. There are many people here on the forum, that would be happy to give you guidance, and you could end up with a gun that you feel greater attachment to than any before, (because you put it together). The only problem will be the time it takes to get it all together. I think of it as a journey vs destination type of mindset. Good luck.

I prefer a steel adjustable GB.

the chamber for a .308 is larger, the .308s bore dia is larger also, so hypotheticaly, if you had two barrels that had identical outside contours and dias, the .308 could in fact be the lighter of the two. But it doesen't work that way, as stated above, the chamber end of a .308 barrel is going to have a larger OD even if the muzzle end were the same. Keep in mind that barrel wall thickness has an effect on barrel whip and accuracy, a .308 barrel with the same OD as a .223 barrel is going to have thinner wall thickness.

I looked into them before going with the 300 myself. Although there's something undeniably cool about an AR with a banana mag (IMO), I think the 300BLK is an easier way to get the same ballistic performance, not to mention the commonality of parts with the AR 15, no bolt issues, shared mags, more bullet types available, etc etc. I think that if you intend to shoot only surplus ammo, have some AK's and/or access to good prices for the surplus ammo, it might make sense. Another option some of my friends have gone with is to build a 5.45 X 39 uppers to shoot lots of that surplus ammo, they tell me the corrosive is dirt cheap. since I went with the 300, if I were to contemplate another small platform cal, I think I'd probably try the 6.8, (or a .458 SOCOM).

I saw them for sale a couple of weeks ago on the web site for modern pawn and guns in Corpus Christi. They didn't have a price listed, but somehow i knew it would be above my pay grade. Hell, even if it was 10K I'd have to pass. I'm just hoping that one of my filthy rich gun enthusiast friends will feel the need to add one to his collection, then I might get a chance to shoot it.

I am not trying to criticize anothers design, and your results may be different than mine, but I have found that the smaller and more forward and tuccked in the right side lever is in the trigger guard the better it works for me. From your renderings, it appears as though that right side paddle will seriously obstruct your trigger. If you wanted to test that theory, if you have a gun equipped with the Magpul BAD lever or equivilant, tape a piece of wood or cardbord to the end to simulate that paddle and the try the gun with it. Perhaps if your just planing slow fire from the bench it won't matter, but in any other application I think it would be a liability. Might even be a safety concern if you were to catch it while removing your finger from the trigger, could cause an AD. Possibly, if you were to flip the paddle over so it projected forward along side the gun vs back towards the trigger, it might not be as much of an issue.

If money is not a limiting factor, there is no doubt you can build a .308 AR under 8 lbs, I just don't think you'll do it with those components, but I could be wrong. If not mistaken, I think there's a member currantly doing a build that is under 7 lbs. If you aren't locked into those specific compmnents, you could always build it as you've listed, and if you don't make your weight, swap out a few components for lighter ones. By the way, I think that most here would agree that the difference between an 8 lb and 10 lb gun is noticable, but I don't think an 8.5 will feel very different from an 8 lb gun. besides total weight, the balance of the gun will have a noticable effect on how well the gun hancles for you.

I wonder if this will have any detrimental effect on the developement of polymer mags. I'm thinking that if the military don't use them, that has to be a big financial hit for companies like Magpul and Surefire, and Troy. I'm just wondering if they will continue to work on developing new ones, if they can focus their resources on other products that are sold to both military and civilian markets?

Looking forward to hearing how this barrel works for you. I was interested myself, unfortunately, I've made a promise to myself to stop buying gun stuff with my CC unless I've got the cash on hand to back it up, which has seriously handicapped my gun building, Damn I hate being responsible. Best of luck with it.

Your forgetting about the most important thing, the cool factor, nothing screams cutting edge technology like carbon fiber, just look at all those little front wheel drive tuner cars. It's become so popular that I see Youtube tutorials on how to wrap you cars body panels in carbon fiber to give it that "competition" look. Unfortunately, so far I haven't seen any on how to wrap you own rifle barrel.

Unless I'm mistaken, you and Survivalshop are located almost as far away from each other in the continental US as is possible, I think if you want it bad enough to cross the continent for it, he ought to give it to you just for the level of commitment your showing by traveling that far for it.

It's funny, this is kind of like trying to diagnose a car problem when someone is describing it over the phone. I had originally been under the impression that your problem was that when you shouldered the gun comfortably with your cheek resting on the stock,the distance between the top of the stock and your eye was more than the distance from the stock to the center of the optic, what I'm getting now, is that you've been unable to actually shoulder the gun comfortably because you couldn't rest the stock against your shoulder while resting your cheek against the top of the stock without lowering your head. Not that I'm one to be giving advice, but I've been told by many people, that you shouldn't have to strain your neck to get down to the stock, you should bring the stock up to your cheek, that way you'll be more comfortable, and should be faster and more accurate when shooting off hand, so it sounds like your on the right track, I guess I wasn't hearing what you thought you were saying.

I'm thinking that your going to be between, 8.5-9LB as described. But I'd certainly like to be proven wrong. I think you should build it just to prove that it can be done.

i think I might just have one made, as opposed to buying the gun, buying an 18" barrel, switching the barrels, and reselling the gun, unless you'd like an AR that takes the G3 mags. Couldn't you just buy an 18" off the shelf barrel from Fulton, and have 2" removed and have it rethreaded?

I would have to agree with both of you Survivalshop, and Robocop, my 18" cf wrapped barrel didn't end up being drasticaly lighter than a standard light contour barrel, in fact, if I remember correctly, it was around the same weight as the Fluted Noveske 7.62 Afghan barrel on my other gun. But that is a 2.5" shorter barrel. As you state ROBO, by itself it won't make for a drastically lighter gun, but combined with your other parts, I think your going to find that it's a pretty good handling gun, and I bet it transitions noticable better when engaging multiple targets on the move, just my opinion. The question of if it's worth the wait, and the money, is another story all together. it's definitely nice, but only you will be able to say if it was worth the wait and aggravation. After you've had it for a while you'll have to give an honest answer to us on that.

If I'm understanding you correctly, are you saying that your original problem was not one of the scope being to low, but of your not being able to find a repeatable/comfortable spot to rest your cheek on the other butt stock? the Vltor isn't actually any lower than the original, are you saying that the angled flat surface on the Vltor stock is allowing you to raise the gun higher in relation to your cheek than the other one did?

I checked out their site, and based on the MSRP it looks like it must be a pretty serious piece of equipment. Hope you got a really good deal.

I've got two barrels that I had made to order, all of my others are Noveske's. My 300BLK barrel was made for me by Delta Arms, using a Montana rifleman blank, and was designed with competition 3 gun shooting in mind. My CF wrapped barrel was mabe by Advanced Barrel Systems, using a Mike Rock blank. The 300 barrel took a month or two to get, and the .308 CF barrel took me around a year, so I know what your going through, hope you'll be seeing it soon.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the design of the bolt gun stock, angle the stock down behind the barrel? If thats the case, Your going to have to try to find taller rings or go with the riser, because the buffer design of the AR means that You can't get that any lower with the AR operating system. Good luck with it, and you should share your solution with the forum. Maybe you'll be able to save some other member from having to go through a lot of trial and error.

Just to add my two cents to the responses that you've already gotten. If I understand your original post, it sounds as though your saying that with your present stock and high rings your finding that the scope is still too low for your taste, because you state that you have to "push your head down to line up". From that statement it sounds as though your not going to benefit from a stock riser, which would locate your head higher in relation to the optic. It would sound as though your best option may indeed be to use a rail riser to raise your rings and scope as a unit, as stated by survivalshop. I don't know how much higher you think you need to raise the optic, but I've seen risers from YHM and Larue (and others)that will raise your optic .250-.500" and even one that raises it .750", but I've got to say, your setup looks pretty tall already. Unless your a really big guy (with head to match), maybe it's a matter of practice to find and repeat the proper cheek weld. You also state that your forced to move your head around in order to find the optic, which sounds more like the scope is too high and you don't have any cheek weld, (which is what I'd find if I mounted a scope using those high rings you've got on there. In that case the Magpul cheek risers would be the solution (or lower rings). Which is it , scope too high, or scope too low, presently?

Isn't the JP made of aluminum? Maybe the threads in the aluminum block become oversize with repeated adjustment? Perhaps you ouls use some blus locktite to fill gap? Or could a helicoil be installed?

The Krieger I bought for my M1A build is 1/10. Many of those guys, that have shot these guns in hi power, have strong opinions about what works best in them. Krieger recommended the 1/11.25, but I chose the 1/10 based on the posts of some of the members. After ordering it I read that some prefer the 1/12 twist. I have been having second thoughts on my choice of 1/10. I'm hoping that I will not regret going with 1/10. This ammo sounds as though it might be just the thing for my configuration. Too bad I'm not going to be in a position to try it in that gun for several months, maybe I'll order some to try in my .308 AR's. of course all of them are 1/11.25 twist so it won't answer the question of how it performs out of a 1/10 barrel anyway.

I just skimmed the article, but what I get when I read it is that it requires a minimum of 1 rev in 13" in order to stabilize the bullet, but that the reported results were obtained using a 20" Larue OBR with 1 rev in 11.25" twist. Unless i missed it being specifically stated that 1/10 is no good, My interpetation is that any barrel with a twist of less than 1 rev in 13" would not be ideal, but 1 rev in 10" is actually closer to 1.3 rev in 13".

Just did a quick search and found a post on another forum where the member says that LOKI uses Satern blanks, and that they have a following amoung the 6.5 Grendel shooters. Supposed to be info on them at 65grendel.com Might be worth a closer look if they can actually deliver a barrel within a reasonable time frame.

Anyone have any experience with these barrels? If it's a good quality barrel made from a decent blank, it might be worth a try for $300. I think I'm going to see if I can dig up any info on them.