IM_JOHNNYV

This is the main reason I will NOT get a CCW. Could be used by criminals, and even more scary, big brother..........

Go Bravo!!!!

How about we start a boycott of CTD on all the forums we visit. That should send a statement..... Dick's Sporting Goods also..... Just my 2¢

There's enough forums out there that will make CTD squeal like the pigs that they are. Pulling firearms from their site, but raising magazine prices in the wake of a tragedy, I'll bet the parents of those innocent children would love to get their hands around the necks of those a**holes at CTD........

Cheaper than dirt or Dumber than a box of rocks...... Never really liked them - their shipping was always outrageous......... I found firearms on their site, but why are they even listing firearms for sale if they don't sell them???? Another one for my poop list......

I can verify that this ammo is great. Shoots ½" groups consistently and is clean burning. Just purchased some myself......

Could be one reason you see a lot of military ammo with sealant around the primer.... Makes me wonder......

Process of elimination using compressed air. If the gas doesn't move, then neither does anything else. <thumbsup>

My neighbor asked me to take his Bushmaster AR15 to the range to see if I could find out why it would not eject. He inherited the rifle from his brother and when he received it, it was unfired and new in the box. He (neighbor) went to the range after getting the rifle and the first two shots ejected normally, but then it would no longer eject - sounded strange to me. I inquired about the ammo and if the rifle was properly lubricated and he said he thought it was. So before going to the range I did my normal preliminaries, checked to make sure it was empty, the rifle cycled properly when empty, action lubricated, and gas tube clear of any obstructions - all OK. I took to the range some Federal 55 and 62 grain bullets. First shot - FTE, second - FTE and all subsequent rounds FTE. Accuracy was phenomenal, shooting under ½" groups consistently - STRANGE, to say the least. Took the rifle back home and started double and triple checking everything and found what I believe to be a One-in-a-billion oddity. When my neighbor fired the second shot out of the rifle, during the ejection cycle, the case had an apparently loose primer that unseated itself, was in mid-air when the bolt started its forward cycle, and found its way into the gas key, restricting gas from entering the bolt to start the ejection cycle. If you check the primer size, you'll see it fits the gas key perfectly and can completely restrict the gas flow. After removing the primer, the rifle functioned flawlessly. Truly One-in-a-billion....

I built my AR10 (actual Armalite pattern) from a raw forging and turned the barrel from a rifled blank and can tell you that I have had zero problems from it. It feeds reliably, and is very accurate. At one point in time I would give most Black Rifles a thumbs down, but I was heavy into bolt rifles and anything semi-automatic made no sense to me. Just my 2¢.....

The flaw of that design is it is very possible to overtighten the vise and crush the receiver. Armalite uses that design and I believe the reason is to sell new upper receivers. Just my 2¢ In a recent thread there were some different vise block shown including the one I made, which I believe still works the best for barrel installs and there isn't a chance of it tweaking the receiver as someone noted in the thread.

OUCH!!!!!

Thanks for the kind words.... Thanks.. If I got enough orders I'd make a run of them....

Hi Guys, Finally got around to putting up a video of the buffer release tool I made 6 - 8 months ago. Enjoy......

In theory, if the one piece base (line bored when manufactured) sits on top of a flat top receiver (machined flat when manufactured), then I see no advantage whatsoever in lapping, but if it makes you feel better, then by all means knock yourself out..... Just my 2¢

Nice collection........

Photo??

Impressed or not, it works for me. I'd rather use tools of my own design and have the satisfaction of saying "I built this rifle" as opposed to saying "I assembled this rifle"..... Just my 2¢ ;-)

Armalite's idea is great, but it still has an "oops" factor. That "oops" is don't tighten the vise too much. Their design has a flaw, in that the receiver is being held at its weakest point, the lower side of the receiver, thus creating the potential of crushing or tweaking the receiver, especially if one's Torque wrench is set to 145 lb. ft. rather than 45 lb. ft. (Yes, it does happen - don't ask and I won't have to lie - LOL). I made my vise block (3 piece unit) and it works on both the AR10's and AR15's, and when used properly, CANNOT crush the receiver, and CANNOT be overtightened. My block secures the receiver on its beefiest part, the Picatinny rail. My upper block is a piece of Phenolic machined to fit the Picatinny rail (thank goodness that is a standard dimension), the lower is two pieces of 3/8" steel plate machined square and joined at right angles to fit in the receiver and is a tad bit longer than the depth between the bottom end of the receiver and the inside of the Picatinny rail (where the charging handle resides), and finally, the alignment bar (keeps the 3/8" material centered in the receiver and eliminates the possibility of the setup twisting). When assembled to a receiver, crank the vise as much as you want, I doubt you'll crush the Picatinny rail, and there won't be any receiver tweaking. With this setup, you need only change the alignment bar to use on either the AR10's or AR15's

A matching numbers Polish Underfolder Kit with a virgin Romy barrel and heat treated receiver shell. Can't wait..........

Best way to tell how far the gas tube should be inserted is to put the bolt into full battery, insert the gas tube into the key, then back it off approximately an 1/8" (you'll see that the tube at this point will be exposed inside the receiver about 1"). As for the way the gas block "should" be installed is to snug the screws into the barrel just enough to mark them, then take the barrel and spot drill the marks with a 3/16" bit the depth of the drill point taper. This works for me......

Had some reloading stuff on order and just got it yesterday. Tried out the Hornady M2 vibratory case cleaner with the treated corn cob from Franklin Arsenal on about 500 9mm's and they came out looking brand spanking new. Looking forward to setting up my new Rock Chucker Supreme press this weekend.

My favorite is my Firestar 9mm - it's all stainless and weighs a ton, but I love it...

I also had a snafu when drilling a 0% raw forging, but mine was from not reading the drawing correctly - duhhhh...... My fix was with some aluminum dowels and Loc-Tite®, but I very much like the "Freeze Plug" approach... Great job