JMoto

if you look at the drop down menu, the meprolight and trijicon are 39.99 and 49.99 dollars respectively in addition to the cost of the mbus

nag nag nag... you guys and your pictures lol. I will send you some, but it looks like a bomb went off in the work area so they wont be pretty. I will PM them to you lol The rear lug helps preserve the bedding job like you mentioned. I have no personal experience with all of the cool guy stocks so I cannot speak of their accuracy. Fulron and lrb both have good reps and I have and still do use some of their products.

We were all waiting for YOU to try it <dontknow>

Smith Enterprise bar stock receivers are rolling around out there. just under a grand if you so choose. Mine is on a 2 lugged armscorp. My trigger pack is at about 2.7 lbs on mine. Just like any rifle you can change the way the trigger feels but the way you hold it. Some people hold the rifle with their thumb up against the back of the receiver pointing downrange. Compare this to shooting with your thumb wrapped around the stock and others will keep their thumb on the right side of the gun while firing. All three of these positions will make the trigger pull feel different, but to say that 2lbs on this is like 3lbs on that.... really cannot say. Which is heavier? 1lb of feathers or 1lb of stones. There is more to a trigger job then the weight of pull, and I think many times people forget or don't understand that. The barrel is not free floated, but you can "float" the handguard and remove tension here and there, but there will still be a contact point or two. When shooting you want to try and be consistent. For instance, if it is a highpower gun do most of your testing and development in high power positions. If you are going to shoot from a bench with sandbags test it as such including your load development. If you test the load from sandbags but you do most of your shooting from a bipod the pressure(s) on the barrel are different and the load may not be optimal for that set up. Now the difference is minute but if you are trying to shoot for groups, all the little things count. I just shot a 5 shot group the other day that was less than .5in during load development.

Were you speaking to me? Mine is actually a custom build, it started out as a receiver and a barrel blank. Blank was cut to 22in and oversized heavy barrel, op-rod guide had to be welded to the bottom of the barrel because of the size. All NM/GI parts. I do not think there is an aftermarket trigger group available. You just have to rework the factory one. When it comes to scope mounts you will HAVE to spend the money. I have tried every single cheap one there is and it cost me way more to find one that worked... sort of. Word to the wise, the trijicon mount will NOT clear a national match rear sight hood. I ended up giving that one to my brother since his has standard sights. It is bedded into an old fiberglass stock. Mine is a dream to shoot, in all honesty my favorite gun to shoot and to show. I would not change a thing on it.

I do not plan on owning any class three weapons, so I certainly would not be a dealer. The scar would have to be a dealer sample since it is post 86. My dealer is a class 3 dealer so I get to play with some of the cool toys.

Mcmillan also makes a pistol grip stock for it. M1a is my favorite rifle, I actually have been taking it out almost every time I take the LR 308 out.

I am scratching my head trying to figure out exactly how dry a popcorn fart is.

I have shot the scar heavy and found that the front weight really helped keep it controlled during mag dumps. The weight in the front along with the relatively slow rate of fire made it a breeze to shoot. If I needed a 308 full auto, the scar h would be a great choice for me. In semi, I see no need for it personally. It is light over all so i think they made it front heavy intentionally, but that is just a guess

Jgun, your link came up bad but I am thinking that is the link for the paladin block. The problem with that is that it is full on, partial, and full off. If I buy that there is no guarantee that it will eliminate enough gas imschur, another member recently put a JP adjustable block on his SASS 308 barrel and it cleared so there is some hope for a factory adjustable block. The pri unit is designed for a straight tube so it should clear no problem and according to their dimensions compared with the over barrel height of the JP tube the combination of the two should work. We will know when I get some funds together to get the parts. The PRI runs with a straight tube so I will have to use a tube alignment tool to straighten out my mid length tube since they only make a carbine and rifle length straight tube. Or I could run the JP as the other member did. I have to get a hold of JP and see if I can squeeze the dimensions out of them as he used a railed gas block and I want to use the non railed version. If their gas tube hole has the same relationship to the barrel as it does on the railed version I am all set. As for more chamber polishing, you can polish a chamber too much. If you have a mirror finish in the chamber it will actually increase case flow to the front of the chamber causing a higher chance for case head separation and possible damage to my pretty face. If the adjustable gas block adventure becomes impossible to complete I may just chuck this sucker up and spin a finish reamer through it. EDIT: the adjustable gas tubes are only in carbine and rifle length as far as I have seen. If I am mistaken please let me know. It would be nice to buy a tube and try it before I waste money on a block and handguard Once again, I truly do appreciate all the time everyone has spent on here and please do not feel like I am brushing off anyones idea(s). I err on the side of caution when dealing with such things.

One thing to remember is to use Nylon jags because the copper solvent will actually show false positives from the Brass jags. You will keep cleaning and cleaning only to find out that it was the jag and not the barrel.

It says they reload at noon mountain standard time

My guns work in the rain <dontknow> just kidding.

That is definitely a slick little piece. Have you shot it yet? If so, how was it?

I am a fan of the M&P line of pistols. I have played with one of those mass compliant guns. the trigger is awful. I was surprised to learn that states had laws requiring min. trigger pull. I cannot compare to a glock as I have only shot a handful of them. One can say glocks are more reliable but that is only because they have been around longer. I look at the majority of trainers and they are using either M&P or Glock so from a reliability standpoint I think you are safe with either. The guys putting 10k plus rounds down range in poor conditions are going to see failures way before I am.

That looks alot like my wife's sig 238. The LDA is 45 is it not?

Max, thank you so much. It has been very hard to get data on this kind of stuff. It looks like that tube will leave me a couple of hairs of room for what I need to do.

set it as your homepage, i am doing it now. That is the only way i wont forget

DPMS or TUBB? I have had the same problem with both springs. I will say that it was pretty darned tough to get the tubb spring in there/compressed to put the buffer in. If it were not for my ninja heritage I would not have been able to stop it from mortoring through the window!

survivalshop, imschur, First of all let me thank you both for taking so much time to assist in the matter. It is rare to find people who are not only knowledgeable, but willing to share/work with others. With all of the reports of rough chambers I assumed it was almost gouged from the way people have been talking about it, like it was from a damaged reamer or something. I looked at it and it is not exactly mirrored but it is rather shiny and I cannot see any tool marks. In comparing it with a couple of other barrels I have laying around I see some that are less shiny and some that are moreso. Is there a more exact way to tell? I understand how timing works and brass flow, but others may not, so there was no harm in posting that info. It is something rarely spoken of on the internet. I am very certain that the rig is overgassed. I have a 223 in the same configuration and with match loads I run with 90% of the gas turned off and it is more than enough to cycle. I too though of bumping the gas block to limit the gas but because the barrel is dimpled for the gas block set screws which makes this not possible. I may try and run a PRI adjustable gas block with a new hanguard if I can find a HG that will fit over it. You spoke of how the bolt is seating, I am getting more than 70% engagement of the lugs according to the wear on the back of them.

I have seen a few people running armalite springs for the extractor. Not sure of any advantage. 98, I am familiar with that setup, I just was not sure if I could run it because the lr308 uses a dual spring. I never though of swapping to a single spring and a d-fender with the plastic booster.

I clicked on it but it came up as a title only, meaning the article name but nothing else. I tried in firefox and safari It has the factory extractor spring in it. The mod you are speaking of is swapping in the armalite extractor spring correct? edited for the third time, I was thinking of a link someone else posted. I read your link the chamber is cut correctly. I am getting correct casemouth expansion according to that persons "diagnosis method"

The chamber on this one is very smooth, I cannot detect any roughness in it at all. No snags on a q-tip as is typical with rough machining and no irregularities visually. I actually pulled the barrel again to double check before posting. The rifle has been headspaced (I do so on all new rifles) I have not chrono'd the loads but If you are talking about the piece of brass on the left, it was the picture itself possibly a reflection. I check primers religiously on handloads and with every new lot of factory ammo. I disagree on the round count though. This is not a problem that will "work itself" out.

I have optic envy! Is there any way you can measure the height of jp tube from the centerline? I have heard the tube is offset, but nobody has been able to tell me how much clearance there is top side. If you want you could even measure from the top of the barrel and give me that dimension as i have the same barrel.

Brass is ejecting at 2-3 o'clock, factory rifle buffer (dpms) chamber is smooth and spring is the tubb 308 spring