392heminut

I don't know about the butchering but I'm sure the field dressing was done right. This guy grew up hunting anything and everything here in New Mexico and was one of the most experienced hunters I've ever known. I sure miss him.

Shepp, the bears must taste a LOT better up there than they do down here in the southwest!

Boy, isn't THAT the truth!

I'm with you Bob! ROFL!

I can relate! A buddy of mine gave me a bear meat roast and my wife cooked it like she would any other roast. Couldn't eat that thing but the dogs enjoyed it! He asked how it was and I told him. He said "Oh no, you have to marinate it before you cook it!" and told me how to do it and gave me another roast. My wife prepared it like he said...................the dogs enjoyed that one too!

Blue, I can only do smart phone video and it's a pretty crappy comparison between silenced and unsilenced because unsilenced shots get clipped by the phone. Here's one done by a guy that goes by esstac on the boards. My build is pretty much the same as the one he has in this video.

JT, as you know, 22 rimfire bullets have, at the most, a copper wash or wax coating so plugged gas ports from shooting them would not surprise me. The guys over on the other forum that have quite a bit of experience using the powder coated cast bullets have had no problems with plugged gas ports or lead in their silencers. I have put several hundred of the Extreme Bullets copper plated bullets through my 300 BLK with no problems and no leading in the bore or lead in the silencer. I haven't removed the gas block to check for any debris in the gas port but I'm guessing that since there's none in the bore and the gun is functioning just fine it is a non-issue.

The spacer material I used is titanium spacer tubing sold by SD Tactical that is turned down to fit inside their outer tubes. It comes in 4" pieces and I cut it with a pipe cutter. Titanium can be a biotch to cut with any kind of saw as it gets harder when it gets hot. The Ti spacer tubing is only .030 thick but some guys have had problems cutting it with a pipe cutter. I suspect their cutting blades are dull, as I used a new cutter I bought from Lowes and had no problem cutting it. It's kind of flexible so you have to go somewhat light on the cutter tension and make several turns to cut it but it works. Ti is kind of pricey and SDTA has stainless spacer tubing that is thicker for less money but I wanted to keep this can as light as I could so I sprung for the Ti tubing. Both the blast chamber spacer and the .5" spacer were cut from that 4" piece. As for putting it in a Word file, be my guest sir! I don't have any problem with others having the info, that's why I posted it up!

Well I'm going to call B.S. on that right now! I have been using moly coated cast lead bullets in my competition pistol for several years now and have had zero, that's ZERO! leading in the bore. You are going to badmouth lead bullets no matter what I say and I will cite real world experience of myself and others that they work just fine so I guess we will just have to agree to disagree on this one!

The guys over at www.300blktalk.com are getting great results with cast bullets in the 300. Real world results vs. speculation, the real world results get my vote every time!

I painted the can with VHT Flame Proof header paint, which is rated for 1300-2000 degrees and after it dried I cured it in the oven according to the directions on the can. Don't tell my wife I used her oven, she doesn't know! So far the paint job has held up great and it can easily be repainted if it gets scratched up. What you can't see in the pic is the can is engraved with the name of my trust as manufacturer, a serial number (whatever the builder wants to use), caliber and model number. All of this is required by the ATF and must be entered on the form you submit to them to get your tax stamp along with the overall length of the finished suppressor. You can list it longer on the form than the actual length (within reason) but the length shown cannot be shorter than the finished suppressor. Another thing that can get you into trouble is changing parts in the can after it is built. That is a big no-no with the ATF! Once it is finished it can only be modified by a properly licensed dealer/manufacturer. You can alter the internals such as fine tuning the spacer like I did or clipping the baffles but you cannot legally change out any of the parts. The suppressor is legal to use with any caliber equal to or smaller than the caliber engraved on the suppressor. You can't register it as a .308 caliber and then later drill it out and use it for say a .338. That pretty much sums it up I think. If anyone has any question post them up and I'll answer to the best of my ability.

Okay, lets see if I can get this build finished up. This is the muzzle break from SD Tactical with the thread protector (rear cap) threaded into it. The brake protrudes just a bit over 1.25" from the thread protector so I shot for a blast chamber of about 1.5" I stacked 12 baffles into the tube, then a .5" spacer and another baffle and measured and that put me just a little over 1.5" for the blast chamber. I cut the blast chamber spacer about .10" longer than what my measurement showed that I needed. I did this because the internals can settle together and get loose the first time it is shot. After taking the can to the range and putting 90 rounds through it I went home and tightened it and measured the gap between then endcap shoulder and the edge of the outer tube and filed that amount off of the blast chamber spacer to get a good snug fit. I ended up taking about .050 off of the spacer tube and everything fits nice and tight now.

I ran a 3/8" drill bit through my baffles after forming them, which gives me a .375 hole. Plenty of room for a .308 bullet to pass but not excessive. This is how the baffles will stack up inside the tube, with the cones towards the muzzle;

After the cones are formed you should have a nice curved looking cone in the freeze plugs.

Once the center holes are drilled in the freeze plugs you can then start forming the cones in a press. You place the plugs over a socket to do so and if the socket is not snug then put a few wraps of tape around it so the plug fits snug. The first step to forming the cone is done with a 45 degree taper. I pulled one off the end of my gear puller to use for this. You start forming the cone by pressing the tapered end into the plug until the shoulder of the cone is down even with the freeze plug. You then take the 45 degree end out and finish forming the cone with a 60 degree tapered end. I got a cheap Morse #2 tapered dead stock and cut the end off. If you're building a 30 caliber silencer like I was you can press the 60 degree taper in until you are almost to the diameter of the hole needed. Most go about .060 bigger than the caliber so for .308 it would be about .368. If you're building a .22 cal. can you will probably have to stop with just the 45 degree tapered end so you don't make the baffle holes too large. The more you press the cones into the freeze plugs the bigger the hole gets.

SDTA sells a little centering tool that sits in the freeze plugs so you can drill a 3/16th" starter hole.

Okay, the old thread got a little off track and it is old so I'll start another one about my suppressor build. I got all my parts (tube, endcaps, spacer tubing, and muzzle brake) from SD Tactical; http://www.sdtacticalarms.com/ The freezeplugs for the baffles are just regular Sealed Power 381-3179 freeze plugs sourced from NAPA. Here's the titanium tube and the end caps in the raw. The outer endcap is aluminum and is undrilled but comes with a starter dimple centered on the inside. The other endcap, which SDTA calls the 'thread protector' is the one that screws onto their muzzle brake and I got mine in titanium.

Hell yeah! No candy munchers mooching from your stash! LOL!

I don't think you'll have to worry about that with Ron! ROFL!!!

No thanks! It's been raining so much here in the desert we have water standing all over town. Desert communities aren't built with water run off in mind!

I'm thinking it might be time for another field op........................................Ron?

Sketch, some of the guys over on that board size the bullets after powdercoating but most of them don't. Here's another option if you don't want to cast and or powder coat your own; http://palmettoprojectiles.com/collections/projectiles/products/1000ct-203gr-300-blackout-projectiles They seem to be well liked over on that forum.

You're basically shooting the same velocities as a handgun load so cast bullets aren't a problem at subsonic speeds. Subsonic is roughly less than 1050 FPS. I've shot thousands of 357 and 44 magnum cast bullets loads in the 1200 FPS range with no leading problems.

A lot of guys reloading subsonic with cast bullets are powdercoating the bullets. They tumble the bullets in a bucket with the powder then bake them in the oven. Seems to be the way to go with 300 BLK cast bullet loads. A lot of the guys over at www.300blktalk.com do it and there is quite a bit of discussion about it in the reloading section of the board.

Hmmm.....the one end isn't even a muzzle brake, it's a flash suppressor! Is that thing for real or some photoshop job?