tolbndfishin

H&H spinnerbait. White/Chartreuse in muddy water, Blue/Chart in Clear (both with colorado or double colorado blades). There are other lures that are great at varrying times, but for a go to, that is it. It works on white perch, stripers, bass, occasional catfish, and even speckled trout if Im going saltwater. If I'm in a new body of water, it's what I use to find fish, then I fine tune how i want to fish. The only time it's not the first bait out of the box is when Im bass fishing at nite, because the blades arent big enough to create the thump I look for in a spinnerbait. Only thing I do is use a split ring, and cut off one hook of a treble hook, and attach that instead of the factory hook, because it can and will spread when you have a large fish hooked. (look at how the factory hook attaches and you'll understand). Russ

<munch> <munch> i put on 28lbs just eating popcorn while reading that story.... It mirrored my experiences exactly, cept for all the expertise and knowledge exchange that went into convincing you to do it, and the gun store (building my own), etcetc.... I just figured it looked so cool and had a bigger hole, it HAS TO BE better :cookoo: In reality, You guys are to blame for my jumping into the shallow end head first, ragtag bunch of enablers that you are..... ;) <lmao> Russ

I don't see any reason why you couldnt. I've watched the M110 (made by KAC with a 20" barrel for the military) shoot 1000 yards with mass produced ammo. I would think it'll be perfectly fine, especially if you're doing the loading yourself. You can probably get a bit more MV out of your own than what they get. (I don't have hard numbers, nor do i intend to imply Im an expert, only passing along so you feel a bit more comfy when you start loading them up). Will it perform better than your 168? Again, no hard facts, but with the better BC (however small) it might more than make up for the velocity loss, or it might not, at that range, but I don't see how it would be any worse. Russ

The assurance that this gentleman's gun is going to fail him by his lgs is very disturbing to me. If they had your best interest in mind, they would not try to sell you something new to replace what many here (none of whom I have ever met but have proven through their experiences, and in reference to other experiences from reputable professional individuals/companies that they're worth listening to) consider to be a completely functional and reliable brand. There are many small changes you can make to improve your faith in your rifle (and that goes for any brand), but the most important is going to be find someone that isn't going to shake your belief in your rifle with what is more than likely an unfounded belief that a couple stories they heard from a friend of a friend of an acquaintance told them (or even more likely an inexperienced customer that didn't know what he was talking about had a bad experience). "My buddy had a 'insert brand here' and it wouldn't cycle, but his son's friend's dad's brother had 'insert different brand here' and it was immensely better" See my point? Just disturbing........ >:( Russ

ss said it. I've had or seen too many lemons in my life with various purchases that i will lap any new set of rings (or mount) that i buy or am going to use. I buy a lot of computer parts, and quality control even with great companies will miss one of something every now and then with mass-produced products. If they're hand made, I usually cant afford them, so I'll always have the lemon-potential. It's too easy to do, too low of a risk if you pay attention. The time it's going to take me to guarantee the rings wild hold firm, be true to the scope, and not have a potential for any damage no matter how slight is far worth it. My 2 pennies..... Russ

I won't comment, cause you asked for guesses. I saw the original photo with caption. Not bad integration, not crazy about the keyhole pattern like imschur, but not cause it's out of place on a firearm. I just dont care that much for it on that. It's only one angle, but Im digging the angles on the upper and rail. Russ

Welcome! Good to see another louisiana brother here. Ill be in bossier tomorrow and sunday for drill, actually. If my rifle is done drying from its cerakote, ill be getting it back tomorrow or sunday. Shoot me a pm, and we'll get some range time in one day. If its done, we can meet up and compare notes. Russ

Oz, I agree with your evaluations of the 308. The 6.5s definitely have the better BCs and can do more for cost. I was only speaking to his questions, and what i have assembled. I intend on two more uppers for my rifle, one in 6.5mm (prob a 260, possibly the Creedmoor) and one in 7mm (havent settled on anything here yet). 1000 yards won't be the majority of range time with what I have, but i do like to reach out sometimes, and intend on this gun being able. Brent, That sucks. Your pride and skin and glasses healed up yet? I have a fixed Magpul PRS. I've seen that exact thing happen before, and it's why i only hold the magwell when i shoot a collapsible stock (i didn't until i saw that happen, and it looked like it hurt). Obviously, skill will play a large factor, but I have some tentative rules I try to abide by. I dont try to reach past 800 with an 18" barrel (usually less). I've shot the old remington 700 308 tactical with the 20" barrel, and the velocity loss was enough that consistency at 1k became difficult with 165gr, but wasnt impossible or terribly unreasonable. I've learned a lot since then, so Im going to try again with this gun. 24" gives you a bit more velocity, so can't hurt you at range, but will add weight. You'll have to find that balance you're looking for. If it were me, with the options you have to trim the barrel (make sure the crown is impeccable or it'll never shoot) I'd go with the longer barrel. As far as fluting or diameters, I would suggest going to some of the barrel manufacturers websites (Krieger, Shilen, Hart, etc) and looking at the measurements on the contours, they usually have weights too, and get some ideas on how you wanna flute (hart does some crazy fluting lol) or turn down the profile to desired diameter. The M110 contour I have balances extremely well, it's enough weight without being too much. Russ

I'll pass along my brisket recipe for you to gander at, in case you wanna try it. Also my cooking instructions since i do it a bit different than what I consider to be normal. I should have time to type it up this evening. Glad to hear the pork turned out well, and you were happy with it. After seeing those results, I think i'm going to have to load up and head to wash's place and get some real time in person smoker lessons... <laughs> Russ

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-07520-Multi-Plier-Blunt-Black/dp/B001AC1C6I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1351608012&sr=8-2&keywords=gerber+600 I prefer this design of pliers to needle nose in a multitool. Much more functional. The serrated blade is nice, the knife is good in a pinch. These usually serve any purpose when i really need pliers, whereas the needle nose always lack a bit of grip strength. I havent broken my original tool, but i have two more on a shelf in case they stop making them, and i break the first one lol. I don't buy extras for many things, if that says something for my opinion of the design. If you prefer needle-nose, i still recommend this model, just with the different jaws. Russ

Cerakote is now dry on my mega build. Put a 20" M110 contour Krieger on it. My goal was 1k or better, will shoot it in the coming weeks and give feedback. Have a scope to review (SWFA SS 20x), will be mounting it as soon as i get my rifle back, also reports (will include target pics, load data, etc) on how the intial range visits go. Maybe it'll steer you to that upper with the 24" barrel, or if all goes as planned, let you see lighter and shorter is capable if done correctly (there's a one liner in there somewhere...). I intended on getting a longer barrel intially, but settled on this when i saw the wait times of the 22" and 24" barrels from the specific manufacturers i was considering. Krieger chambered it to my bolt, had the barrel in stock (so only 8 business days from order and shipping of my bolt to them), all for $475 plus shipping. Expectations low (it's how i roll with everything, means im never disappointed lol) but hopes high that i've got a shooter. Russ

how many loads did you play with? Seating depths, crimping, powders? I probably wont be buying them, but was curious as to the methods for future reference. Thanks and yes, the last statement is accurate. "the bullet doesnt lie" i think is how ive heard it phrased. Lol Russ

If i may ask, why the bergers and not the smks? Just a question. I know the max load was never great in accuracy out of my 300wsm, but 1.5gr shy put everything into a dime-sized hole at the default 100mtrs. Makes me wonder why they wouldnt perform similarly in a lr308 if the rifle is capable with the 168s. Twist shouldnt be too high for the 155s if it stabilizes the 168s, but could be. And yes, i know some rifles just don't like some weights. Ill have to do my own loads to find out, but now am curious. What was your criteria for judging satisfaction with the bergers? (range, consistency, groups, velocity, etc) Russ

Definitely worthy of a chuckle <lmao>

I have a propane smoker, its upright with a drawer in the bottom. $130 from walmart. The drawer has a small circle pan in the very center for wood chips/chunks, and the rest of it was for water. I got tired of the heat climbing as the water level got lower and lower and dropping way down when i added more, so i got to thinking (dangerous for me lol). Had a bag of playground sand, did some googling and realized it had been done. So i tried it. Works excellently once you figure out the sand level necessary to hold the temp you want. Mine is full for brisket at 260ish. When i do pulled/sliced pork i need the 215or so, so i have to add in another valve to my propane line or it cooks too hot, but the sand is zero maintenance while cooking. Only have to grab my scoop, throw out any non smoking wood, toss in a few fresh pieces, then door closed, temp doesnt drop or climb nearly as much (opening door drops heat, sliding the drawer out to add chips removes the buffer btwn the burner and the meat, so i prefer a drop in temp rather than an over 300 temp) If you have a vertical smoker and water is the buffer your using, try the sand if you can easily put it in and replace it after 15-20 hours of accumilated cooking time(it gets a glaze on top if grease keeps dripping on it, so will need replacing). If its for a get together or something, i always change out the sand. Russ

No tie, flip once at about 150 internal, thats it. If the heat gets to be too direct (i use sand, not water to hold temp better) ill place a small pan on the lowest rack and keep water on it. Im guessing its time for pictures. I should be home monday and will get some if i think abou it. The only time i use foil is during the last hour or so, so itll make the transition easier into the ice chest with the towel for resting (no ice). Russ

When i showed up on this site, it didn't take me long to see the enablers at work (or play, depending on your perspective <laughs>). Since my enabling skills are only in their infancy as far as the weapons are concerned (i and the enabled far easier than i do the enabling), I find in this thread is a topic i can participate and slowly develop those skills. 98, if you leave this thread never to come back, no more enabling everywhere else from you ;D <thumbsup> yeah, I've gained a few pounds myself, but I have hope. One of my coworkers is on a "Meat" diet, in which he gets all of his required nutrients throughout the day, but it's largely based on beef, pork, chicken, and some fish, and the limits placed are with everything else he eats. He likes when i fire up the smoker and have leftovers, cause he doesnt have to cull any of it....Im starting to think my enabling is just fine :) Neal, let us know how those things come out next weekend, and how you cooked them. Russ

Btw wash, your tchnique is next up on my agenda, as i like experiments and learning what i enjoy. Neal, He's right about the smoke ring in two hours not gonna happen. That only works on hamburgers and sometimes chicken (if your lucky). Russ

I wouldnt go past 205 internal, 200 is better. Longer should help, lower temp. Bark and smoke ring are better. Being only 6lbs, you still want a long smoke time, so to get to that temp internal and keep it going, drop your cook temp to drag it out some. I try to stay under 225, closer to 215 for the whole time when i have anything btwn 5-9 lbs, 225 for anything over. Ive actually had some really great briskets (5lbs each, 4 total per smoke) the last couple times smoking at 260-265 (strangest accident i ever succeeded at, wife thought the temp said 180 after an hour and turned the heat up *facepalm*, and i found it to be repeatable) but i wouldnt dream of doing that with a pork butt. It'll dry out too easy on the bottom. And always bone in as he said above. Russ

Man, ive gotta get out on the range. Ive got put together the same thing you're looking for. Mega billet set, 20" krieger m110 contour, etc. purpose built to outshoot me. Problem is, getting cerkoted right now (was Hoping to have it this weekend, but as its a friend thing, i refuse to push with everything he's got going on). That mega set is fricking sweet (fit btwn them, finish seems well applied, solid with no flex or preceivable weak points). My experience has taught me the upper (bcg, bolt, barrel, etc) is money better spent as long as you get a quality lower (straight, strong, etc) with a great trigger and a little play btwn the lower and upper hurts nothing if you do your part. Hope this helps confuse you lol Russ

For those of you coming to this forum recently, and not understanding this site for what it is, ill educate you. That set of questions i asked, i have asked in some form or another in other forums around the great blue internet. This is the first time i have received an answer with ANY civility. He prompted more room for discussion, imho, which is what i wanted, but he also answered my questions as asked, and did it with knowledge and understanding of what i was asking. I have never experienced attacks on this site for my opinions or questions, and its why i will stay as long as they let me. Thanks 98Z. My comfort here grows, and respect for you guys continues. I have more discussion points on this topic ill post when i have a real keyboard, some more time, and am not so tired. LSU took a lot out of my sanity tonite trying to lose that game against South Carolina. Russ

98Z5V, I neither agree nor disagree with your statement on fact because i have no experience concerning rainier barrels. I do ask this: when they lap their barrels, are they paying close attention to the throat area, or are they lapping only to take care of the bullet path through the "meat" of the barrel, AFTER its made its transition past the reamed throat area? I wasnt aware they took care of lapping the throat (but only probably because i havent asked them). If its something that would legitimately (i know im only theorizing based on some unfounded ideas) increase accuracy, why dont more companies do it? Is it because the break in procedure some suggest does a better job than lapping, or because it's not necessary at all and is only some dumb idea thought up by a redneck on an AR forum? Lol I dunno, just tossing out what i hope to be some discussion worthy ideas. The initial question was to find out, and learn more about rainier barrels. The rest is for the purpose of discussion and learning Russ

Minus the mono (gonna use an apex or midwest ind 15") thats exactly what i was imagining. U copyrighted? Lol Are ya'll liking the 6.8? Never even shot it, and im very accuracy obsessed. If it doesnt outshoot me, i wont keep it. :cookoo: this is gonna be a bit more of a lightweight than i usually envision, so itll be a 16" barrel. Pathfinder, sorry for the hijack, ill quit after this. Welcome, And pm me your company info, i might some see you so you can teach me awesome stuff. Russ

As far as this whole discussion is concerned, i dont pick sides, because i honestly think it depends on expectations, various factors (pressure, barrel material, etc), and each rifle. What i will say is this: i have rifles, have shot rifles, all broken in or not in carious ways. If i buy a krieger, ill do what they say. Theres a reason they suggest it, i trust their experience enough to buy it, why wouldnt i break it in how they tell me? And their reasoning is all about the throat, not the lands and grooves. Makes sense to me, so why not. I only know teo benchrest shooters, and the barrels they use dont get the break in procedure of any kind associated with shooting/cleaning it, buy they put so much work when it's being chambered, that i imagine they've accomplished nearly the same thing. I feel like if a bullet needs to hop as small a distance as possible (yes, there are exceptions i know, so dont beat me up lol) to get into the barrel as smoothly as possible, if the throat has small irregularities from chamber reaming, shooting it an cleaning might help take care of that. If u shoot half inch groups without a "proper" (notice the quotes please) break in, could it possibly have shot .4" or even .3" groups with that break-in? Yes? Prove it. No? Prove that. Does it really matter to most shooters? If it works for YOU, continue your method. As for me, my krieger barrel gets whatever treatment krieger suggests. And so on with any other brand. But that all depends on what i expect. I bought a chrome lined for my father's ar15, and i imagine itll get shot with a cleaning when he cleans the rifle, and i expect an inch or better, which is all he wants anyway. If it shoots better, was that due to no break in? Would it have shot better with it? See my point? Manage your expectations and develop your method with your experience and the words of those you trust. If i ever have the time and money, i would love to take a sampling of barrels (maybe 5 each brand of a few brands with diferent qualities) and test the theories on as equal footing as i could manage (then repeat in different calibers), but even after that, it wouldnt end the argument, nor should it lol. Its part of why i like shooting. Russ

According to Dave Branson, yes. He told me i'd need the dpms vise block for the maten upper i ordered through him. I kinda trust he knows what he's talking about. Will know for certain next friday when i see my rifle next (its getting its new paint job right now). The above statement only applies to the dpms 308 upper action block that fits inside of the upper. Not any clamshell style vise block that i know of. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/137499/dpms-upper-receiver-action-block-lr-308-knights-armament-sr-25-delrin Russ