dpete

We?? Who is this We fella? If this is a team effort, if you supply the rifle, I'll supply the 308 brass to experiment with. If the experiment goes bust you still have a dandy rifle and I'll still have brass. Sounds good to me! See my post on the first page. "No I don't need another rifle! Just curious is all." Where did you find that 8.6 BLK is spawned from a 6.5 Creedmoor? For the sake of enquiring minds want to know, I'll pull out a once fired and FL resized case of each one and measure them up. Stay tuned for details.

308 ---> 6.5 ----> If I'm looking at the diagrams correctly the Creed's case wall is slightly less tapered than the 308. I'll now return you to your regularly scheduled 308AR forum thread.

Picture from that article.

So you couldn't cut down a 308 case and achieve the same result? Chop it down and run it through a 8.6 BLK sizing die, just like we do with .223 to 300 BLK? No I don't need another rifle! Just curious is all.

Is that what it is? How is that so different than a 338 Federal besides the 1:3 twist?

How about a nice and just coming out 8.6 Blackout?

Here is a video showing what I was talking about.

The handguard wouldn't be terribly hard to replace. You could even get a freefloat handguard and install it if you are willing to cut the sight post off of the gas block. A little bit of Dremel tool tabletop gunsmithing.

Pictures of the rifle would go a long way toward getting help with the issue. Post them up.

@BrianK On the contrary. This forum isn't failing in the least. This group of yahoos come from all walks of life and various degrees of experience, and many things hold us all together and keep us coming back. One is the wealth of knowledge that is freely given if the requester of said knowledge is respectful of others and the rules, another is that we can actually get to know one another. Quite a few of us have met in person. @98Z5V organizes 2 shoots in AZ that people have travelled hundreds of miles or cross country to attend, and we have 1 here in WI . Can you say the same for any other internet gun forum? I got here long after the "jackass" incident and feel the policy is completely warranted. Why should someone be able to act like a comlete dolt, disrespect others who have given advice freely that cost them money to learn, and then insult those same guys for giving that advice when it doesn't agree with their preconceived notions that are often wrong, THEN be able to deny it ever happened by deleting or changing the posts in question? If someone makes a fool of himself and gets insulting because he got butthurt for being called on it, it SHOULD stay public for all to see. No assumptions of jackassery are ever made here. We let the person prove it themselves over time. Some times that time period is very short. You came here looking for information. We've given what we thought might help. I've personally provided info you specifically asked for. This is a closeknit group of guys that can truely call one another brother and friend.

Not .308 I know, but a fun comparison of 6.5 Grendel and 6.5 Creedmoor. Lots of us have one or the other, if not both.

These shoot great out of my 12.5" barrelled AR and my RARR bolt. https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0015326174b250/6halfmm-point264-diameter-123-grain-boat-tail-hollow-point-250-count

I noticed that attachment system on yours and thought it looked pretty slick. A local gunshop has some single points that attach with what looks like a leash clip with the spring loaded thumb tab.

A single point is what I had been thinking of, but I didn't know how much difference there is between one and another.

Since my sling experience began with bolt action deer rifles and evolved to full size ARs since then, I am at a bit of a loss on how to sling this little bugger. It will either be in this form, or with just the padded tube rather than the brace. There is little to no room on the handguard for an attachment point and I'm thinking even if there was it would most likely get in the way of aiming if the sling was used. For reference there is about 13-14" between the sling swivel and the end of the handguard As of now it has the single sling swivel at the back of the receiver for an attachment point. Any suggestion would be appreciated along with your reasoning behind it.

You won't regret it! 👍

Quoting the Stag Arms page. Carbine Receiver Extension Kit - AR10 Special Price $59.49 WAS $69.99 Qty Then directly below that they say. The Stag 10 Carbine Receiver Extension Kit includes everything you would need to install an aftermarket stock onto a .308 carbine set up. Therein lies the problem! One place they call it AR10. The next they say its compatible with a .308 carbine set up. It kind of throws doubt on whether or not Stag knows or cares about the differences.

Upper and bcg should be fine, both come from the same company and should play well together. Spring and buffer are working behind the bcg in the buffer tube attached to the lower, a completely different matter. It all depends on how heavy the buffer is and how stiff the spring is. If they spec out all should be good. Thats the big IF. The main point of saying all this is there is no milspec for 308AR parts. Companies can make parts any way they want to and call them AR10 parts, and be totally wrong! True Armalite parts will spec out and will be correct.

To answer your question bluntly, YES there is a reason the AR10 spring and buffer from Stag will not work. Most companies out there that sell parts for large frame ARs call them AR10 parts and they ARE NOT. They ARE NOT AR10 parts because they are either too light to work properly or they are designed for 308 ARs and they did not come out of the Armalite factory. Unless something came out of the Armalite factory it IS NOT an AR10 part. You already have an Armalite AR10 lower. Other than the fact that you already have a few bits and pieces of a recoil system, why put anyone else's parts in there? You came here asking for advice on how to get a rifle running. You got good advice from people who have been where you are and have done that. Get the parts already suggested here from Armalite and be done with it. Less dicking around and you'll have a rifle that works.

Scroll down to the video link.

@BrianK Trailboss works great for lightweight subs but only in a bolt action. Its my go to powder for my 110gr subs because its so fluffy that the tiny charge fills the case. 4.4 grains gets me to about 980 fps out of my Ruger American Ranch bolt action. It doesn't create enough gas to run the action of an AR15, but in a bolt its bunny fart quiet.

The deer taken with the bullet pictured above was standing facing me at about 30 yards. The bullet entered between the right shoulder and brisket, travelled through the chest cavity, and lodged inside the stomach. As I field dressed the deer I noticed a 1" roundish hole in the front of the stomach and cut it open to do a search. (thank God for gutting gloves). Feeling around in the goo I found the bullet. It had travelled 20" or so before stopping. I've taken 2 other deer at about 30 yards with the Maker that were broadside shots and both of those were complete pass throughs. None of the three deer left any blood trail at all despite the nasty tearing edges after the bullets expands. In my experience you don't track a deer shot with a sub, you look for a dead deer. At subsonic speeds these bullets don't produce any hydrostatic shock that turn internal organs to mush.

Thanks for the tip and especially the pictures. They made it much easier to visualize what was done. I worked on mine this afternoon and took things slow with a hand file. Removing a little at a time from the back side of the back piece I eventually got it to slide between the bolt release lever and the upper with clearance. All works perfectly now. Picture taken from the inside view of the filed off BAD lever installed. Bright aluminum showing where the filing took place, and looking seriously hacked from this angle. After a drop or two of Testor's flat black model paint applied with a Q-tip. As @SpinDoctor showed, there is no sign that any kitchen table gunsmithing ever went on when seen from the outside once the upper and lower are assembled.

@BrianK Yes thats a 200 grain Maker subsonic. The only bullet I've used for Sub hunting. I've also got 225 gr Hornady HPBT and 220 SMK for paper punching. All three of them have almost the same point of impact at 50 yards with their respective loads. These subsonic loads are what my 8" suppressed SBR likes. As always YMMV. 220 SMK in LC case. 9.7gr IMR 4227. CCI 400 primer. 2.220 COAL 225 Hornady HPBT in LC case. 8.8 gr IMR 4227. CCI 400 primer. 2.220 COAL 200 Maker HP in LC case. 8.4 gr IMR 4227. CCI 400 primer. 2.120 COAL All three of these loads are 970-980 fps which is the speed range this barrel likes. Yours will most likely like something else. I tried using Lil'gun when I was first doing load development. It worked just fine but I found that IMR 4227 was more accurate and much cooler burning. My subsonic BLK magazines are standard 5.56 Pmags with the entire inner side rib filed out. Rifle with mag. mag in rifle Top view of mag By taking the ribs out completely these long fat basterds can be loaded to mag length instead of having to fit between the ribs. They become dedicated sub mags by doing so because shorter supersonics would rattle around front to back in the mag not having the rib there to hold them. Top

I have to do something similar to one that I have for my 300 BLK pistol.