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Everything posted by dpete
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These shoot great out of my 12.5" barrelled AR and my RARR bolt. https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0015326174b250/6halfmm-point264-diameter-123-grain-boat-tail-hollow-point-250-count
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I noticed that attachment system on yours and thought it looked pretty slick. A local gunshop has some single points that attach with what looks like a leash clip with the spring loaded thumb tab.
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A single point is what I had been thinking of, but I didn't know how much difference there is between one and another.
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Since my sling experience began with bolt action deer rifles and evolved to full size ARs since then, I am at a bit of a loss on how to sling this little bugger. It will either be in this form, or with just the padded tube rather than the brace. There is little to no room on the handguard for an attachment point and I'm thinking even if there was it would most likely get in the way of aiming if the sling was used. For reference there is about 13-14" between the sling swivel and the end of the handguard As of now it has the single sling swivel at the back of the receiver for an attachment point. Any suggestion would be appreciated along with your reasoning behind it.
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Help finding or bulding an AR10 Armalite upper
dpete replied to edteach's topic in Building a .308AR
You won't regret it! 👍 -
Help finding or bulding an AR10 Armalite upper
dpete replied to edteach's topic in Building a .308AR
Quoting the Stag Arms page. Carbine Receiver Extension Kit - AR10 Special Price $59.49 WAS $69.99 Qty Then directly below that they say. The Stag 10 Carbine Receiver Extension Kit includes everything you would need to install an aftermarket stock onto a .308 carbine set up. Therein lies the problem! One place they call it AR10. The next they say its compatible with a .308 carbine set up. It kind of throws doubt on whether or not Stag knows or cares about the differences. -
Help finding or bulding an AR10 Armalite upper
dpete replied to edteach's topic in Building a .308AR
Upper and bcg should be fine, both come from the same company and should play well together. Spring and buffer are working behind the bcg in the buffer tube attached to the lower, a completely different matter. It all depends on how heavy the buffer is and how stiff the spring is. If they spec out all should be good. Thats the big IF. The main point of saying all this is there is no milspec for 308AR parts. Companies can make parts any way they want to and call them AR10 parts, and be totally wrong! True Armalite parts will spec out and will be correct. -
Help finding or bulding an AR10 Armalite upper
dpete replied to edteach's topic in Building a .308AR
To answer your question bluntly, YES there is a reason the AR10 spring and buffer from Stag will not work. Most companies out there that sell parts for large frame ARs call them AR10 parts and they ARE NOT. They ARE NOT AR10 parts because they are either too light to work properly or they are designed for 308 ARs and they did not come out of the Armalite factory. Unless something came out of the Armalite factory it IS NOT an AR10 part. You already have an Armalite AR10 lower. Other than the fact that you already have a few bits and pieces of a recoil system, why put anyone else's parts in there? You came here asking for advice on how to get a rifle running. You got good advice from people who have been where you are and have done that. Get the parts already suggested here from Armalite and be done with it. Less dicking around and you'll have a rifle that works. -
Scroll down to the video link.
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@BrianK Trailboss works great for lightweight subs but only in a bolt action. Its my go to powder for my 110gr subs because its so fluffy that the tiny charge fills the case. 4.4 grains gets me to about 980 fps out of my Ruger American Ranch bolt action. It doesn't create enough gas to run the action of an AR15, but in a bolt its bunny fart quiet.
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The deer taken with the bullet pictured above was standing facing me at about 30 yards. The bullet entered between the right shoulder and brisket, travelled through the chest cavity, and lodged inside the stomach. As I field dressed the deer I noticed a 1" roundish hole in the front of the stomach and cut it open to do a search. (thank God for gutting gloves). Feeling around in the goo I found the bullet. It had travelled 20" or so before stopping. I've taken 2 other deer at about 30 yards with the Maker that were broadside shots and both of those were complete pass throughs. None of the three deer left any blood trail at all despite the nasty tearing edges after the bullets expands. In my experience you don't track a deer shot with a sub, you look for a dead deer. At subsonic speeds these bullets don't produce any hydrostatic shock that turn internal organs to mush.
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Thanks for the tip and especially the pictures. They made it much easier to visualize what was done. I worked on mine this afternoon and took things slow with a hand file. Removing a little at a time from the back side of the back piece I eventually got it to slide between the bolt release lever and the upper with clearance. All works perfectly now. Picture taken from the inside view of the filed off BAD lever installed. Bright aluminum showing where the filing took place, and looking seriously hacked from this angle. After a drop or two of Testor's flat black model paint applied with a Q-tip. As @SpinDoctor showed, there is no sign that any kitchen table gunsmithing ever went on when seen from the outside once the upper and lower are assembled.
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@BrianK Yes thats a 200 grain Maker subsonic. The only bullet I've used for Sub hunting. I've also got 225 gr Hornady HPBT and 220 SMK for paper punching. All three of them have almost the same point of impact at 50 yards with their respective loads. These subsonic loads are what my 8" suppressed SBR likes. As always YMMV. 220 SMK in LC case. 9.7gr IMR 4227. CCI 400 primer. 2.220 COAL 225 Hornady HPBT in LC case. 8.8 gr IMR 4227. CCI 400 primer. 2.220 COAL 200 Maker HP in LC case. 8.4 gr IMR 4227. CCI 400 primer. 2.120 COAL All three of these loads are 970-980 fps which is the speed range this barrel likes. Yours will most likely like something else. I tried using Lil'gun when I was first doing load development. It worked just fine but I found that IMR 4227 was more accurate and much cooler burning. My subsonic BLK magazines are standard 5.56 Pmags with the entire inner side rib filed out. Rifle with mag. mag in rifle Top view of mag By taking the ribs out completely these long fat basterds can be loaded to mag length instead of having to fit between the ribs. They become dedicated sub mags by doing so because shorter supersonics would rattle around front to back in the mag not having the rib there to hold them. Top
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I have to do something similar to one that I have for my 300 BLK pistol.
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Yup. Mine too. Plus the subsonic BLK bullets designed specifically for hunting do scary things inside deer. Subsonic hunting is like bowhunting with a rifle, close in and quiet. You hear the shot, then a fraction of a second later hear the bullet hit the side of the deer. It sounds like someone slapping a pair of leather insulated mitts together.
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Hurt? These things are varmint bullets and even at lower BLK speeds they basically explode after entry. Getting hit in the chest would result in everything in there turning to mush.
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@BrianK I got to the range today to do some velocity checks with the 4 Blackouts that I have in the house. Bullets were 110gr Varmageddons and all were 5 shot groups. 16" barreled Ruger American Ranch bolt action averaged 2502 fps 10.5" pistol AR averaged 2270 fps 8" SBR AR averaged 2176 fps This 5" pistol AR averaged 1858 fps Bullets were randomly grabbed out of an ammo can and loaded into 1 30 rd pmag. It was interesting to watch the velocity drop as the barrels got shorter, which was completely expected.
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Welcome from WI. Careful with Grendels! If left to their own devices they try to spawn themselves into more like them if you have any extra parts stashed away.
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I found a 28 footer similar to that sitting in a field last spring. No furniture, worn out carpet, just side rails and a falling apart steering console and drivers seat. 40 hp Force outboard. I asked the owner about it and he said if I wanted it I could have it. Come take it away. The motor started right up on the first attempt. I sold the motor, stripped off the side rails, motor mount, and steering console, and now its a 28X8ft floating pier at our lake cottage. This year its getting a deck extension, rub rails to protect the boats tied to it, and new carpet. Its not a party barge but its sure big enough to be a party pier.
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Ok another one in WI. This boat has a story that I still find hard to believe. It starts in 1986 when I bought a model very similar to this one from the same company. After marrying my 1st ex and moving to KY we sold that boat and got a newer but different model in about 1988. At that time I was actually a rep for the company and when it came time to sell the boat, the company president Tony Portincaso had a buyer in Illinois where he was based. Boat is sold, life happens, two kids are born, divorced, remarried, etc. etc. Flash forward to 2018. I'm driving through Eagle River WI which is about 25 miles from where I am and go past one of those spots where people park cars and stuff to sell and I see a grey figerglass v hull for sale. The hull is rather unique and I look closer and a light bulb goes off in my head. Thats a Tony Boat! I wheel around to take a closer look and sure enough its the same model that I had 30 years before. 17' long, same open floor plan, even the same trailer from the company that made the one I had. I call the number on the sign and talk to the guy who owns it. He wants to move the boat BAD. They're selling the cottage, not fishing like they used to, and staying closer to home in Illinois. We talk for a while and it turns toward hunting and shooting. I ask him if he would be interested in a trade and he says possibly. We end up making a deal, I traded him a 16" barreled 300 BLK AR for the boat, motor, and trailer. The boat needed its interior replaced and the trailer needed new wiring. Here is where the twilight zone kicked in. This was the same model as I had in 1988, same layout, same everything. The trailer was from the same company that mine came from. No big deal, Tony probably started using those trailers for all his boats. As I begin to tear out the old interior and remove things I didn't want I begin to notice odd details and start having deja vu. Two screw eyes mounted into the front of the splashwell, and sets of screw holes under a non-skid pad I removed got me thinking. I pulled out the paperwork the guy gave me with the boat and in with it was the invoice from Tony Portincaso Boat Company. The guy bought it from Tony directly in Illinois. I called him back and asked him if he had installed the screw eyes in the splashwell or if they were already there. He said they were already there and asked why I was asking. I told him I knew who had put them there. ME! The boat we turned over to Tony to sell in 1988 had somehow returned home and was once again sitting in my driveway in 2018. The trailer under it was the exact same one we had. I rebuilt the interior to match the original model I had in '86 and added a few more modern touches but the hull is still as solid and stable as it ever was. I think I'll have this one until I die!
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I'll second the 5 round ASC mags. https://gunmagwarehouse.com/asc-ar-10-308-7-62x51-5-round-stainless-steel-magazine.html Out of stock right now.
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UPDATE I went to the range again today but this time for an accuracy test. This build was never intended as a long range precision piece but I had hopes of decent accuracy. It has achieved that. The Fastfire III has a 3 moa dot which pretty much covers a 2" square on the target with my eyes. With about 75 rounds through it so far, it is minute of baseball at 50 yards with bullets loaded for my 8" BLK sbr. So far it is living up to the hopes I had when thinking about building it, a rifle round coming out of a package that is about the same size as an H&K MP5.
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First outing is a success! The adjustable gas block arrived this morning and I had it installed shortly after. @98Z5V It ran like a top with the gas block wide open. First shot with 1 round in the mag had bolt hold open on empty. Next mag with 3 rounds all fired and ejected perfectly. Then I commenced shutting down the gas. First two clicks, had BHO. 4 more still had BHO. 4 more still had BHO. I kept shutting down the gas until finally I had no bolt movement, I assume gas was shut off completely. Two clicks open and BHO again. Ejection was right at 4 o'clock with empty cases landing about 3-4 feet out. I'm guessing that I have it two clicks above fully shut off and have perfect function. This is with a 3.0 oz carbine buffer and standard spring. Shooting subs with the gas set for supers had no BHO, and I didn't play with it to determine how far it needed to go to get there. The recoil is a smooth push, not a sharp punch like I expected, although I did use my original Sig brace for testing purposes. It was a cloudy day and the birdcage flash hider did its job, there was no noticeable muzzle flash when observed from 20 ft to the side. Shooting it you don't really realize how close the muzzle is to your face compared to a 16" carbine. Next up is some accuracy tests at 25 and 50 yards.
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Parts have arrived and she is put together...mostly. I'm still waiting on the adjustable gas block that USPS says is supposed to be here tomorrow. I'm thinking more likely Saturday or Monday considering where tracking says it is right now. If I get anxious over the weekend I may put the standard gas block on it just to see how it runs unrestricted. 23" of pint size blaster 300 BLK
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Greasing the spring ends the twang. Just sayin'









