dpete

^^ This right here. A small piece of self adhesive velcro available at any hardware store. Might cost you fifty cents for 6 rifles worth. Peel the hooked section off the fuzzy section and throw the hooked piece away. Cut the fuzzy piece to fit the front of the shell deflector so it doesn't interfere with the dust cover opening up and stick it on. This is on my 300 BLK and it ended the dented case mouths 300's are notorious for. I've added these to every AR I own. No more dented cases and it didn't affect ejection at all.

Cough Cough hint hint. Keepin it warm for ya brother.

Brother? Thats my bouncing baby boy who is going to be 30 this year.

It is! But I'm only 6' 6". Dunking passed me by a few years out of college after torn knee cartilage. Plus there is the "white man's disease". (White guys can't jump!)

Ahhh. But can he palm a basketball? @dpete raises hand.....I can... I can.

Here is the rifle as I shoot it. Ruger American Ranch 300 BLK with AR mags, Nikon P300BLK scope, form 1 suppresor. This little beast shoots! It isn't as light as it was when I got it due to the 3 rubber hose sections filled with lead shot inside the stock, but it now balances very well with the suppresor attached. I've shot 110 gr Nosler Varmageddon subs using 4.4 gr of Trailboss. 110 gr Varm. supers with 19.1 gr of Lil'gun. 225 gr Hornady HPBT Match subs with 8.8 gr IMR 4227. The 110 supers and 225 subs were loaded for my 300BLK AR pistol. This thing loves all 3. The only bullets I have found that it doesn't like are 125 gr Hornady FB with any grain of Trailboss loaded. It just doesn't like them going subsonic. They are shaping up to work great as supers out of the pistol and once I have that load nailed down I'll bring them back here and see if they work as supers in the Ruger. As reported elsewhere the AR mag springs are a bit strong and I might remove a coil or two from them to reduce the tension on the bolt with a full mag. 30 round Pmags and the 110 supers were VERY stiff feeding, but the 225 subs fed fine out of the 30 rounders I modified for the pistol. 110 Supers 110 Subs 225 Subs All were 5 shot groups at 50 yards. Point of aim for the subs was the heavy black cross at the top of the target. The rifle was sighted in for the supers and that is how much POI difference there is between the two at 50 yards. All of this is with about 100 rounds through the rifle.

Do you have any power tool skills? If so there is always the option to keep the rail you have that you know fits the rifle and cut it down. Something like this: All the cuts would be short straight lines and you can smooth out the cut edges with a dremel tool then repaint them flat black. Or even make the cuts with a dremel tool. A couple hour project, no cash outlay, and you would have a perfectly fitting rail.

...and they are still trying to fix it over there.

Possibly like an axe against your shoulder if mounted on anything with substantial recoil.

WI is such a unique state that even our vultures are pretty! Deer carcass on the left. Famous white headed WI vulture to the right. Usually found staking out sections of forested highways.

I'm glad you got it going. Its amazing how the guys on "the other place" were still making guesses (and wrong ones) on how to fix it right up to where you said its fixed.

I used it in both my 5.56 and 308 ARs until I found out about its temp. sensitivity. I had a great load for the 308 figured out that I did test loads at about 35-40* in the spring. The first time I shot them in 80*+ weather they were blowing primers out of the cases. After that I did some research online and found out about the temp. sensitivity that others were seeing also. I ended up pulling a couple hundred 308 bullets and have been using up the 5.56 as range blasters. Depending on what conditions you shoot in I would consider making up a hot and cold weather load with it.

I have the same Lyman case prep. Its slow compared to the drill press. I primarily use it for chamfering now.

Or you can go the power tool route and modify 98's idea. Take the pictured large and small pocket reamers and cleaners and screw them into the correctly sized aluminum coupler from any hardware store. To get this^ If you have a benchtop drill press you can then chuck those into the press, lay the press on its side, run it at its slowest speed and commence to power reaming those primer crimps out and cleaning pockets. It also works with the drill press standing up but then you are pushing the brass upward instead of from right to left. Wear a rubber coated glove on the hand you hold the brass with for a solid grip. You can ream pockets as fast as you can feed brass from one hand to the other. Your wrist will thank you after not having to twist 3 or 4 times each for hundreds of pieces of brass. Just sayin'

Thanks to a thread on the Grendel forum I was able to order 4 pounds of H322 from Recobs Target Shop in Prairie Du Sac. They might have been the last 4 they had because 20 minutes after my order went through the website was showing 0 in stock. Recobs is a standup place. When I got the email that my order had shipped I also got an email saying the total was going to be $29 and change LESS than I thought. I gave them a call to find out what happened and the gal on the phone (who was the one who processed my order and remembered my name) said that the website defaults to UPS shipping and hazmat charges. Because I live in WI where Recobs is located they could use Speedy Delivery instead. The cost difference was the lower shipping charges and Speedy's $18 hazmat compared to UPS's $39. Another company could have said screw it and put the extra cash into their pocket but Recob's didn't. From where I am located in WI I could not have driven to their shop for what the shipping and hazmat charges cost me. Thumbs up to Recobs.

The empty jug has no label on it and any of the H322 labels off the 1lb bottles easily peel off and restick. There is no way in hell it would go unlabelled.

Mine looked like that too and it functioned perfectly, with a 5.4oz buffer, and the Armalite spring. You should be good to go like that.

Welcome from WI. Post up your parts list. The folks around here can help you avoid the pitfalls of not having a milspec for parts on 308 ARs.

I have an empty 8lb powder jug and (hopefully) 4 one pound bottles of H322 coming in. Would it cause any contamination of the H322 if I poured the 4 bottles into the used 8lb empty jug? I has been sitting empty for at least a couple years. Wash it out and let it thoroughly dry first? Don't even think about it because of possible contamination? I would obviously relabel the jug using a H322 label if I did use it.

I must be an exception to the rule. I hunted with Hornady 165 gr BTSP in my 308 AR and use the 129gr BTSP in my grendel. Both of them never had a hiccup feeding and both were MOA bullets at the 100 yards I had them sighted in for. WI northwoods forest usually doesn't allow shots longer than 50 - 100 yards. Yes the soft tips would get marked by the feedramps, but at that distance it made no difference accuracy wise.

Pm on the way

1200-R works great for 5.56 up to 55 grain bullets.

The 06 is gone, but the 30 Carb is yours if you want it. Sorry, I forgot to update the post before this.

Glad you found your way over here. Take a look at this thread.

The grendel's parent case is the 7.62x39 Russian. The 6.8 is based off of the 30 Remington. Inside 2-300 yards they are pretty equal. Outside that the grendel pulls away and shines. If you have a grendel and like it there is no reason to get a 6.8 for hunting.