AngelDeVille

I'm no ones R&D department.

Shot it this weekend! put about 100 down the pipe. I can't stop smiling! I sighted the red dot high at 25 yrs, and dead on at 25 with the Matech rear at 200. I eyeballed the front sight mounting just right and only had a little front sight adjustment to get it on. Once I settle on a load I plan on a 50 yard zero with the red dot, and I'll see what the matech will do at it's different elevation settings. a few chambering problems, in the first 5-10 rounds I contribute to the bolt being super tight in the carrier. a huge slathering of oil and she ran flawless for the rest of the session. I'll break out the FDE paint this next weekend.

doh!

I have fired in excess of 400 rounds of ZQI and 147 gr reloads in the past few weeks, so the rifle shoots very well. I adjusted the gas block so the ZQI ammo functions well, as it seemed to be the lowest power of what I was shooting. So Sunday I finally got to the range to test out my Bulgarian 180gr bullets and re-used mil powder. ( I also got to shoot my .300 BLK) I had decided by case volume, and crono results with the original ammo out of a Fin M39 that 42-44 grains of powder in 1/2 grain increments was well within safe limits for this powder. I load up 10 each. I didn't bring my crono.... SO...... I add two rounds of the 42 grain to my magazine, fire one. inspect the case, doesn't look too unusual. #34 primer doesn't look excessively flat. The second round does not strip from the mag, so I figure it may be low powered. I load the second and fire. 100yds, both bullet holes touching. Recoil seems normal. I move to two rounds of 42.5gr, AGAIN problem stripping round #2, I lose a primer upon extraction on one of the rounds, I attribute this to loose primer pockets. Other primer looks ok. I go back and load two more 42 grainers, fire one, and again problem stripping the next round, this time the #34 primer has flattened and evulsed into the firing pin hole in the bolt. Then it clicks that the stripping of the second round from the mag is due to the bolt traveling TOO fast. SO I pack up the 45 remaining rounds and pull the bullets and dump the powder. So the case splits in the original ammo was the result of excessively hot ammo loaded by prison labor.... go figure.... I get home and open another tin of the 7.62x54r ammo and the average powder charge is 49 grains, VS the 51 grains in the last two tins! Back to the drawing board! My next batch for my .308 will be from 38-40gr in 1/2gr increments, I'll be bringing my crono and looking for an accurate load in the 2550-2600fps range. Good thing I didn't start with the 44grers......

This ammo is CRAP! What kind did he swallow? .22lr, 50BMG? I love the details left out of the story.

I set up my cutoff saw for very minimal triming after forming. I use those cheap Lee trimmers, and they tend to be slightly under spec. And the Lee factory crimp dies are great. I prefer OAL trimming to shoulder trimming My first batch of 100 that I shot on Sunday went extremely smooth after the first 5-10 rounds on a new build.

Usually threads don't go to poop until page 2, I think we are getting better at it.

Since I already double posted, let's go for a triple. Take a sized empty case. Cover the base/head stamp with masking tape, trim it to cover the flat. BAM! Instant fukkin' no-go gauge....

Damn gorilla fingers, shoot it first. BCG doesn't matter, just the bolt to barrel matching does.

The buffer tube is a sub $20 part and the adjustable block is about the same over a quality non adjustable. With gorilla monkey arms an A2 might fit the bill for now. Try it them decide. IMNSHO, there is only about $40 in question right now. You will waste more money than that in the long run switching things around later. Shiit it first, then decide what you don't like.

Robo is all smart and poop...

Only things I can think of is some cases are too long and are getting a heavier crimp. Or your die wasn't adjusted properly and some cases didn't full size. Are you trimming from oal or from the shoulder?

Next, are these converted .223 cases or BLK headstamp? And, Are all cases same headstamp?

I bought a green vinyl 5 mag Com block shoulder bag for AK mags that fit my 25 round .308 pmags.

Are your case lengths uniform? How are you crimping?

What gap? I use the samco G27 on mine and a few of my ar's as well.

Barrel nut isn't a problem, but I would use barrel blocks for the flash hider. Just take off your gas tube if you don't have space for the blocks. I think I paid $9 shipped off ebay from that company.

I have their vice blocks for the .308 and the barrel blocks. I think I prefer aluminum for barrel blocks but these are ok, I won't replace them anytime soon.

I have the primary arms 4-14 acts reticle on my .308, and the Nikon 4-9 p223 on my toy gun. The clarity of the Nikon has left wanting to try the .308 version of the Nikon. Not that the Primary Arms is bad, but the Nikon is better.

Did I win?

My guess is 33!

My 3 slings arrived on Saturday, y'all need to order, they is sweet! I just need to figure out all the tacticool acrobatics associated with the 2 point sling.

I have the one that mounts top and bottom and it works just fine, but it only works for flat tops. If i was building a lot of em, or had a carry handle, I'd but that big metal shillelagh looking SOB. The clamshell is fine for the toy guns.

As long as the command paints "hostiles" in the correct light, the machine will destroy what they are pointed at..

Ron Peterson in Albuquerque.