willbird

Might be I need to develop a gas tube stretcher hehe, patent pending ;-). Bill

Interesting that the 304 is actually more corrosion resistant.

I was out of that shop in 2002 (wow it has been that long) but that was all they had really, 3, 4, and 5 axis, Probably a dozen or more. they had a couple Mazak Integrex....big ones, and one Mazak mill they used strictly for EDM graphite. Bill

I ran 3 and 4 axis Fadal cnc mills for about 5 years. I miss having the machine and all the tooling, and BobCad all there for making anything my mind could dream up. Bill

Neat ctg. I was gazing fondly at my 6-284 remington 40x-C and thinking it needs an update. Bill

I hang my head in ignorant shame. A serious opsec violation however :-).

Kind of looking like there is some agenda with the company name I mentioned maybe, I dunno. Or just a general theme that open discussion and or debate is not welcome. That is fine with me. Bill

Yes it is MY opinion that oil does not soak into metal. Sorry to irritate you by daring to disagree, sorry to ask exactly why some folks skin oils and sweat are way more prone to causing rust than the average person. I guess the handicap of being poorly educated and unfamiliar with the world puts me in a place where I pretty much should just nod my head and agree with others. Here anyway. Oil soaking right into metal........ermergerd :-). Bill

it is good that the oil does not leak through the pores in the copper tubing ;-). Bill

LOL that is for sure :-). Mom and Dad sure had it rough sometimes :-). Somewhere between 2 and 3 years old I woke up early and got a Philips screwdriver and took the metal drip edge off the kitchen counter. I can remember being fascinated by the "stuff" that would seep out when mom wiped it with a towel. Of course first I dumped out the sugar and flour containers, and the dog peed in that and she and I tracked it all over. Dad heard something an woke up, went to see what was up and saw mom just sitting in the middle of the kitchen crying :-). Bill

yea it shows up for me as 999 as a Brownells Edge member even. I ordered a couple lowers a few weeks back and one email in the confirmation process between ordering and being shipped showed an FFL fee. But I was never actually charged the fee. Maybe they have some bugs in their system somewhere ?? Bill

IMHO the simplified explanation creates a deeply entrenched mis conception :-). I guess I was raised by a father whose father was an Engineer, and pretty much using accurate descriptions was drilled into me at an early age. When a sales pitch involves a product soaking into metal I'm done :-). Bill

There are all kinds of "stuff" they add to lubricants to make them behave a certain way, to cling to surfaces longer for example. But no way on earth are there enough peaks and valleys in the average engine to "absorb" a quart of some snake oil additive :-). IE the pan is full to the dipstick mark, you pour in a quart of Orvilles snake oil 500,000...drive it a week and the oil level is back at the mark because somehow the engine retained that quart of "stuff" on the surfaces of moving parts :-). As in all things in life it is totally OK if we do not agree, but when I hear such claims I just totally discount the whole company and everything it sells...BINGO....done with them. I have a friend on another spot that swears WATER comes out of steel when you cut it with a torch :-)....same kinda malarkey :-). Bill

I was kinda born with a gun in one hand and a Micrometer in the other, and neither one of them ever rusted :-). Is it acidic sweat that the folks have who KNOW anything they handle will end up with rusty fingerprints on it ??

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/barrel-nitriding-11-000-round-update.3795644/page-3 Post 48 in that thread details what folks go through that have a barrel done and it comes back without the "stuff" being cleaned out of the bore and chamber. Steel wool on a bronze brush works really nice for cleaning chambers (not saying the OP did that, maybe the mfg did) but it also might be a natural to leave plain steel embedded into the surface :-). Some folks will wind chore boy onto a brush too...which from what I saw might be copper plated steel.

I'm curious :-). Some folks who are members of the gun culture seem to find out that their fingerprints will cause rust on guns during normal handling. They have said that when we were handling each others guns. Have you ever noticed that yourself ?? Handling the ammo could deposit something from fingerprints in the chamber when the ammo is fired ?? 416 will rust...normally it is pinprick rust under grips on revolvers for example, but getting a heavy rust is unusual ?? Some stuff I have read guy had bores nitrided and got them back and had to clean them after the process themselves, it sounded very labor intensive cleaning the residue from the process out of the barrel. Pondering whether that left some kind of ferrous metal embedded in the chamber surface. A for instance would be buffing a stainless or aluminum part with a non stainless steel wire brush, it embeds ferrous metal into the surface of the metal. Bill

Basic stuff ? metal does not have pores :-). make a plain steel tank, tig welded would look nice, fill it with any of those snake oils, see if any leaks out :-). Make a tank out of cast iron, one of aluminum, again no oil will leak out of the tanks :-). Some general consensus from way back in the day is that stuff like that that simply vanishes, goes out the exhaust because it was mostly petroleum distillates. There is no "magic" to synthetic oil. it can be slipperier...which means an engine that ran 150k on dino oil might leak like a %$#@ on synthetic :-). But it does not have the ability to penetrate solid metal, nope. if you setup a used cast iron part in a grinder and remove even a few .0001" your into clean metal. There are intentionally porous parts made from bronze, some are filters, others are self lubricating bushings. But they are a part pressed from granules and sintered with heat. Bill

I have heard the Lucas oil "guy" on late night radio, maybe a truck driver type of program. Well he was telling people to put the product "right on top" of the full crankcase of engine oil, and that it would "soak into" the metals in the engine. I totally discounted the company after hearing that line of ^&%$#. Bill

Nice work ? Bill

I studied on the 1000 yard benchrest stuff some too. Even shot one match at Williamsport, PA range. Won my relay with a borrowed 17 lb "light" rifle. That discipline is focused on 10 shot groups that count once for score and again for group diameter. Unlimited sighters at clay birds on the backstop if conditions change. Winning strategy is to get POI right and hammer 10 shots as fast as you can aim and shoot. The whole game really shows some interesting things about long range accuracy. http://www.pa1000yard.com/hof-recs/records.php One thing I really look at with any discipline is the aggregates...the 10 match agg records are really impressive....again these are 10 shot groups. Light Gun Class Tom Mousel, Kalispell, MT 10 Match Group Aggregate 5.8954" 2010 Heavy Gun Class Tom Murtiff, Pennsylvania 10 Match Group Aggregate 5.528" 2018 Bill

Way back in the day (say 1995) the BSA Platinum were great for an $80 6x24x50 scope. Maybe not $300 worth for $80 but a decent scope for the price. But some BSA at the same time was utter junque...one I looked through looked like looking through a dirty goldfish bowl with the fish still in it :-). One issue the BSA had was if you were unscrewing the turret to make an adj the scope might walk shots until it settled down, the solution there was to just unscrew past, say go 10 moa then move back 5 to where you really wanted to go :-). But I'm hoping Nikon are all worth what you pay based on some of the lower priced stuff I have looked at and bought so far. I watched a youtube vid on the scope you bought, looks pretty cool really. Where to set the zero stop might take some thinking...most of my stuff I zero at 100 but put 50 yard data in the table, 50 yards is a "sub zero" setting a lot of times from a 100 yard zero. I started adding the 50 yard data after seeing a lot of critters while walking out to where AI actually intended to hunt :-).

I have been really happy with any Nikon scope I have looked through. Brother in law bought one for an inline ML and based on what I saw I bought one myself. I bought a couple Nikon P223 as well and have used one and like it, the other is in stock yet waiting for a rifle to appear that needs a scope :-). Bill

The "little or no wind" gives you the "boiling mirage". They used to say "lights up sights up"..which only apparently applies to post front iron sights. Interesting thread linked here http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-297230.html But here is an exerpt, note that this was on a known distance range....the distance from muzzle to target never changed...they might be talking 1000 yards with Black Powder Target Rifles tho ;-). Lots of rifle matches are "no sighters" type matches, every shot is for score.

The video on mirage is indeed excellent :-). Using Mirage for that reason, and to see the bullet "trace" through the mirage were covered in the small arms firing course class they give new shooters just starting out in High Power. Looking in different directions was not covered or if it was I have forgotten it :-). Bill

I'm more of a woodchuck hunter actually :-). The Camp Perry thing was in my formative years :-). Glad to have done it as well as more local 100 and 200 yard high power matches. But the wind REALLY blows here :-), so hard at times that I lose things I left out in the yard. With woodchucks you get ONE shot...sometimes not even that if they feel your eyes on them :-). So from the one shot perspective I stand pat on wind being very difficult to measure, and range measurement being something that was solved with the optical methods and improved on with modern tech. 80" POI difference between 10mph and 15mph wind is missing the target even if the target is a small car :-). I'm a critical thinker, it is my stock and trade so may arrive at a different answer than others do....and so we just disagree :-). The best way to make things better is to find an accurate bullet with a very high BC, and push it as fast as possible :-). That flattens trajectory, reduces wind drift, and gets the bullet there faster as well :-). Bill