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Everything posted by 98Z5V

  1. For something like this, then - why are you asking us?... If you have the answers, why are the questions being posted here?...
  2. Call Adams Arms and ask them. Phone-in to a human, and point-blank them with that question.
  3. It would be either Pure Luck or Witchcraft if those 5 swapped parts, and it's about a 100% certainty that they will not swap parts. You just listed 4 companies that love to produce their own proprietary parts - because that's what they do. The M&P 10 is not one of those "small-frame" .308ARs, though.
  4. I hit the website right away, and didn't find it. Adjustable gas for suppressed/unsuppressed use is smart. One of these days, I'll add suppressors into the mix, and it's gonna cost me bigtime...
  5. That's a high quality barrel - we're working with 20" Rifle gas and 0.750" gas block diameter. I didn't know that 4.5 turns out was wide open on that gas block. I never use adjustable gas blocks, so I don't know what the settings are on any of them. 20" Rifle gas with a .750 journal area is gonna be about the same dwell time as a 16" Midlength gas with a .750" journal. Pretty close. You need 0.080~0.085" to properly run a 16"Midlength .750 journal-barrel, so you'll need a gas port diameter close to a range of 0.080~0.085". What's the gas port diameter that Faxon drilled in that one that you have?
  6. What brand is the barrel, and what's the chamber look like? Able to get in there close enough with a small flashlight and check it out?
  7. Completely normal. That happens as the brand new gun breaks in. It'll slow down or cease after the break in.
  8. That's the same barrel that I used for my shorty -damn is it a shooter! You'll love that one, for sure.
  9. Caught this BS over on Full30.com - Great find, Brothers from my other Mother: https://joebiden.com/gunsafety/
  10. It's a 100% gas problem, then - it is NOT a recoil problem, at all. It's all in the gas. You start an adjustable gas block WIDE OPEN. All the way, no joke, not kidding you. You get the gun WET, you break the gun in, THEN you start adjusting gas down to your desirable level. All those steps, in that order. That's the only way totune an adjustable gas block on a brand new build If you don't start an adjustable gas block WIDE OPEN, full-on - then you'll never, ever know if the gas port in the barrel is even large enough in the first place - which is a proven issue on .308ARs. If you wide-open it on a broken in gun - and it STILL doesn't hold the bolt to the rear on a single round - that gas port needs to be drilled up, right then. For now, stop looking at ejection patterns, and break the gun in. Get it wet, break it in, THEN play with the adjustable gasblock. This is why we don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit.
  11. That right there tells you that it's the upper receiver that's out of spec - not the PMag.
  13. I love it - have it on the M4 Grendel, too. It's a great optic, brother.
  14. I'll track it down, brother. I'll post from there, and let you know.
  15. Put the tape IN it - you need the internal depth, that's what counts. Measure at the top, because some of these things have a "flare" at the bottom portion, to better catch the buffer retainer.
  16. Been wanting to do one of these for a long time, either this or a SAM-R or something. Found out that the Gun Pusher had a Knight's M5 RAS that he's been dying to get out of that shop, and he had it marked at $60. BAM! OFF TO THE RACES!!! Aero has an M16A4 marked lower receiver, so I started searching for lower parts - damn if I could find a complete A2 buttstock assembly in stock anywhere for cheap. Ridiculous prices on a bunch of recoil systems-with-stock, so I said fuk it, and had the Gun Pusher just get me a complete Aero M16A4 lower. He's tight with Ballistic Advantage, so I had him get me the barrel, too. BA Modern Series SPR barrel, black nitrided, 4150 CMV. Pulled the barrel for $130, and the complete lower for $210 - GP John owed me for putting a set of race cams in his YXZ1000R rig, so I got a screamin' deal on parts... This is where I deviate, in my own way, from an M16A4 "Clone Rifle" - I did this my way. This is the way I'd have this gun modified by my badass unit Armorers, if I had access to them whilst I was stuck with an M16A4 gun. Here's what my notes to the Armorers would be when I turned the gun in: "Get that 20" barrel off there, and get me a spare SPR barrel on this gun. Keep the A2 flash suppressor on there until some Mk12 collars and brakes show up. Get the Mk12 Mod 0 front sight on the barrel. Put a Match Trigger in it, and put on a Magpul aluminum trigger guard and K2 grip, install a Battle Arms Development Ambi safety, keep the A2 stock and recoil system. Keep the MaTech BUIS on there, and ACOG it." That would be my work list for the Armorers to do to the gun. I'd run the M16A4 that way, all day, wouldn't care if it was free-floated barrel or not. I could beat the SHIIT out of the gun in that configuration, and still shoot some distance with it, and never break it. That's what I did, and used an Armalite National Match trigger in it. Primary Arms got the nod for the fixed 5x Prism scope - I'll take that all day at about $300, over shelling out the major coin for a 4x ACOG. I like the reticle in the PA 5x prism, alot. I like the ability to run red or green illum, and I run the green way more often. Bitchin' little optic. So, here it is - gets the irons and optic zero'd in the morning, then I leave for SHOT later in the afternoon.
  17. This is the FOURTH confirmed problem we've seen with the Gibbz platform here. This is #4. Here is the Gibbz history here. There have been no resolutions or fixes found, as far as I know. https://forum.308ar.com/search/?q=Gibbz
  18. You fuckin' NAILED IT!!! I knew you would, too - handguard endcap, not a free-floated barrel - KNEW you'd catch that... M16A4, my way. This is how I would have an M16A4 - if that's what I had to carry - modified by my badass unit Armorers, if I had access to my badass unit Armorers whilst stuck with an A4 gun. I'm with you, exactly, about that. My Nordic barrel isn't coming off that Mod 0 until it's shot out. No way. My PRI top PEQ rail isn't coming off toput on a Swan Sleeve, either. Same with my PRI rear sight, same reason. That gun works so well, it would be crazy to rip it apart. I'm with you, brother. I'll definitely call my Mod 0 a Mk12 Mod 0, even if it isn't military clone-perfect. Same with the Mod 1. My Mod H needs work to get it there, though.
  19. Measure the internal depth of that receiver extension. It should be 7.000" internal depth, and not even a little over that. If it follows the Armalite M15 spec, it will be 6 15/16" internal depth. I had a receiver extension from a well-respected company measure in at 7.100" internal depth, and it created the exact same problem you're having right now... Live Free sells good parts - their uppers and lowers are made by Matrix Aerospace.
  20. OP, what's your goal in cutting the receivers? Weight loss? Or to look different? Define what it is that you want to achieve, first, instead of just soliciting opinions on cutting them up. I think it has zero value, but I have no idea what you're trying to do here.
  21. ^^^ I LOVE MY OLIGHTS!!!
  22. This is why I love this place...
  23. If you're shooting 150 yards or less, I'd go with something that's easier to carry - cut that barrel length down, and make a 16" gun. If you think that you'll be shooting the same .308 Win handload through this, as you do through the bolt gun - just make it a .308 Win AR. If you anticipate a completely separate handload for the Hog AR, than the .308 bolt gun - might as well make that thing a .338 Fed, pick up a set of .338 Fed dies, and neck some .308 Win brass up to .338. It'll be a far more efficient hog gun that way. Wilson Combat has the .338 Fed barrels, and they are very accurate.
  24. No. The BCG had to be fully forward, and the bolt needs to be completely locked in the extension, for the firing pin to even reach the primer. Just the inertial force (weight of the firing pin) isn't gonna be enough to set that primer off. The parts you listed are smart parts to use - what's the receiver extension, though? It's a Carbine extension, for sure - but what's the internal depth of it? What brand of upper and lower?
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