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Brother... You know how many phone apps I already use? With my flipper? ZERO. I might be down with this system - and I can get everyone off my a$s about "He needs a smaaaat-phone..."

When is yours getting delivered, brother?!

Haha!!! That was actually yesterday morning's monthly match! First match that I've completely cleaned! SMOKED IT... You can definitely hear who my spotter is... and his smartass commentary...

When you THINK you're fast, but...

Damn, I'm going to look into that. That is sweet.

Hell yeah - those will work with your "tap" credit cards, too.

Cling-type wraps for dressings - they won't make it. Quik Clot will do just fine.

Straight told ya early - you don't need all that magnification... I'm just sayin'... SFP scopes are not your answer - right now. Don't get sucked into that mantra yet. You need to shoot 1760 yards - ONE Statute Mile. You need to shoot 2000 yards - ONE Nautical Mile. You need to shoot 2280 yards. Those distances are what we've proven out here, already. Once you can repeatably do that, with YOUR gun, Nate... and we're going longer... THAT is when you need to look at other stuff... This is a different animal, completely. There isn't any "build this all NOW, just like THIS answer" to any of this. You need to get trigger time on these targets that are pretty fuqqin' far away, and see how you do, before you can build up a 6-thousand yard gun right off the bat. That just doesn't happen. All this shiit get's really Western, and weird as fuq, once you're beyond a mile. You're getting way too deep in the weeds, over something that might never be a reality, over research. Run your gun - you have a great one for this, so run it. Worry about all the other longer ranges, after you can run your gun to the ranges that we already have. @Magwa found a Home Depot bucket at around 2750 yards out - didn't have enough dial to reach it, with the same gun you bought, Nate. Now, @Magwa has a $1k mount, that dials, just because of that. And right now, we don't even know if the cartridge and load will support such a shot, at that distance... Not at 1390 feet of elevation, and the Density Altitude at the time that would support such a shot... Run your Gun, Nate. Put a scope on it, and run it, to what we've proved already. Just my $0.02.

We've pretty much tapped the .300 Win Mag out at 2280 yards. Which was the goal - see how far you can send a Hornady 225gr ELD-M from a Win Mag, and make effective hits on target. 2280 is about it. We'll try some more this fall, and see if we can get it a little further, but it's not promising. That's about it's limit. Once we surveyed target locations beyond 2280 - is when we realized we need bigger guns. We have target locations out to 2900 now. I can dial my .338 LM to 2600-ish, with my optics plan, but that doesn't mean anything until I actually do it. @JBMatt can dial Joy's .300NM to 3k. But that still doesn't mean anything, until we do it. I have no realistic idea what @Magwa can dial to, probably 7 miles now... And it doesn't mean anything... Until we do it... This is the Proving Ground...

Why I preach what I've preached for 15 years here, from what I learned before 9/11... October 2000 was when I got training on a new badass piece of equipment, that changed the world. Badass, revolutionary, and I was issued Serial Number 001... It was so sweet, that I couldn't even legally turn it on inside the Continental United States, due to legality issues, back THEN - I had to find an overseas deployment in order to even turn it on and use it. That was before the Patriot Act, too... Keep that in mind... That hit in late 2001... Here's my suggestion: Hack "the cloud" on that one. Get into someone's email and bank statements, and accounts - on that one... Give it a whirl. Lemme know what happens. Everything else "smart" - is hackable. Your smart TV, fridge, phone, wifi, Alexa, Siri, all them bitches... Your security system... Hackable, because you've "smart" enabled them. If I can get into your TV, or even your fridge - I own it all. I have everything on you, and you'll never even know what happened. You'd just be broke, and your credit will be shiit forever. I can drive through a neighborhood, find out what's unsecure - and I'm in it. It's downhill for you, after that. The campfire stories this year will be good. I can tell you shiit that will blow your mind. And the technology, that was in my hands, packable in a rucksack, jumpable from an airplane - is more than 20 years old. The newer, and newest stuff... Pfffft.... Nothing has "encryption," like they state it does. Nothing. Get on board, men. Grab one up, and set yourself free, finally.

Add the cartridge and firearms details, brother - those matter.

Well, it's a Tax on an enumerated Right, so if the Politicos play the game right, and use that verbiage, it should fly straight through the Byrd Rule.

@BigNate, brother, now, the next step, after you pick a scope... #1. Get the scope in hand, and actually dial it's full max potential. Do that first. Once you know your total travel... #2. Plan out your mounting solution. Figure out a way to take up almost all of your down travel in the scope. Example: My current plan for the .338 - The Athlon I'm getting has 32 Mils advertised. I'll get it in-hand first and test it. 32 total would be 16 up and 16 down from center. I want to take up the 16 down, and eliminate it, so I have full dial. The rifle has a 20 MOA base on it already. If I pick up the Burris XTR Signature rings, I can dial 40 MOA into those rings. That will give me 60 MOA total, built into the mounting solution. 60 MOA / 3.4377 = 17.45 Mils. That would take up all my down travel, but would not give me a 100 yard zero, which I don't care about in the least for this gun. If I have to throw a 500 yard zero on it, I'm perfectly fine with that. And again, maybe they advertise 32 Mils, but in-hand, it's really 36 Mils of total travel - I have a 100 yard zero, which I don't care about at all, and I can take that up with another 10 MOA in the base... Change the 20 MOA on the gun, to a 30 MOA base... Food for thought, but essential for planning out your mounting solution... My loading goal is 2750 fps for the Hornady 300gr A-Tip from the 24" barrel I have. That won't be hard to achieve. When I make 2750, accurately, with the combo I listed above, I can dial to 2600 yards, dial only. With the WinMag, and the Nikon scope with 23 Mils of dial (17 advertised), I intentionally put a 40 MOA base on that rifle, to take up all the down travel in that scope. Ended up a 500 yard zero. I can still shoot 100 yards, if necessary, and it's exactly 2.5 Mils of Hold UNDER, for 100 yards... Everything still works, once you learn the gun...

Nate, keep this in mind as well - you will want some sort of christmas tree reticle, no doubt. Don't get confused by it, or worry about understanding it, but you'll need it, in the long run. Bottom line is this - no matter how confusing it might look to you, WE can teach you how to use it, and maximize the benefits of it. In the spoken words of my friend @JBMatt... "I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you..." We can all help you understand any reticle that you end up buying. Fuq, I'll teach a specific class on your scope, just directly to you, with everyone else sitting around - just so they can get smarter, too...

I forgot to hit up this comment from ya, brother. My opinion... Yeah, do it. I have a Burris Fullfield E1 in 6.5x20 on mine right now, came with the gun. I don't really like it, but it also doesn't completely suck. I'll leave it on there for now, to do load development in the short term, because I only need to go to 100 yards to get that job done. The scope will fully do it's job for that. When I'm done with it, I'll sell it to a buddy at work. Once I pay off my GunPusher, and pick up that Ares ETR, it's getting put on.

You'll need WAY more than that, brother. Just on my WinMag, I'm 16.9 Mils to the Mile, and that is with a 500 yard zero, which bottoms out the elevation wheel at that distance. The Nikon I have advertised 17 Mils of elevation afjustment, but it really has 23 Mils of travel, and I have all 23 Mils available to dial UP with that 500 zero. I have the second one sitting at the GunPusher's shop right now. The Cronus, which is a badass piece of glass, has 32 Mils of elevation, and 18 Mils of windage. That particular Ares ETR has 32 and 32 Mils, elevation and windage. I went that route, just because of that. There's another one out there, and we'll have to ask @JBMatt what the exact model is, but he put a Zeiss on Joy's .300 Norma Mag rifle that has 55 (FIFTY-FIVE!!!) Mil of available elevation in it!!! So, my advice - I've done the homework on those two Athlon optics for ya, right there. Go back and research the others on your list, and see what they have for available (or advertised) elevation travel. You want a good piece of glass, with the most elevation travel you can afford... FWIW, we found that we were shooting the Mile at about 16x. We used that for the 2k shots. It works. You can identify the target, see it easily, send the shot, go through recoil recovery, and be back on target to see your own hit or miss, just because it's a huge field of view at those distances. The more you crank it up, the more you'll see yourself being shaky AF, and the smaller field of view you'll have... My $0.02.

Someone needs to jump on this - it's a SCREAMIN' DEAL !!!...

2020 to 2050. We'll see if this plays out. Definitely doesn't sound like it's unrealistic.