98Z5V

I think the Armalite AR10A pattern bolt catch would be the more appropriate one to run in this rifle. I'll continue to fit the 10B bolt catch, but get the 10A bolt catch on order.

Yes, there is.

You just replied to a guy that has an issue with his DPMS G2 Recon, and your examples are of your 24" barreled rifle that also has an AP4 upper. You're comparing Apples to Hammers here. Your information doesn't help the guy with the G2 Recon. These are completely different rifles...

Very cool - but what happens when you have a target that's beyond 100 yards, and not sitting at 1,000 yards? Sounds like a cool scope for 1,000-yard benchrest shooters. <thumbsup> How does it do for the people that shoot between those ranges?

This is also another cool, easy way to break in your barrel: http://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-loaded-ammo

Big fan of the Armalite AR10B bolt catch, in any .308AR. So, another one arrived today, to swap into the Aero build. Interesting differences between the two. Pic at the bottom. ***Armalite pin hole is 0.104”. Aero pin hole looks larger in the picture, but that’s the taper on the outer edges. The aero pin hole is 0.101”. The aero part is MIM – Metal Injection Molded. The Armalite 10B part is not MIM. ***Back of pin hole to the end of the stop: Armalite part is 0.875” Aero part is 0.860” ***Bottom to top, bolt stop area: Armalite part is 0.590” high. Aero part is 0.520” high. Might have some work to do here, shaving down the Armalite… ***Thickness of the back of the bolt stop – the part that catches the bolt face: Armalite part is 0.032” from base. Aero part is 0.024” from base. The Armalite stop will catch the bolt face farther back, by 0.008”. 8-thou. Can’t hurt… ***That angled corner need to be dealt with, from the Aero part to the Armalite part. Dremel will fix that quick. I’ll keep working from there... Armalite AR10B on the left, Aero on the right.

The best bang for the buck is buying a good trigger, and shitcanning the stock trigger. Really. The trigger isn't the place to get cheap, or fuk something up trying to work on it at home. It really isn't. My $0.02.

Hit the reloading section, hit the primer thread started by Mike, and ask that question. Otherwise, it just clogs up this guy's intro thread. More people read the tech sections than the intro section...

By the way, that ^^^ didn't take very long to do, at all. Maybe 3 or 4 minutes of my life. Worth it. :))

Alright, Mister Wizard, here we go. Let's revisit a few posts in this thread: Well, here we go... Obviously, Robo was trying to tell you something - kinda of a hint. He was trying to give you a nudge, and try something - that he already knows about. He met the people of CPD, and already has the information that he gave you. He was being polite, in his suggestion. With him offering that information to you, what you do in turn is ask a stupid question, and you hadn't even touched the mags yet, at that point. Had you even tried what he suggested, the answer would have been self-evident - and would not have been asked by you in the first place. In a nutshell, you doubted the man. You had the info, you had the mags, and instead of getting off your a$s to try it, you posted something stupid. That's exactly why i made this comment: Again, you STILL hadn't touched the mags, and you had to run your mouth to me. Had you done what the man suggested, you probably wouldn't have made that dumbass comment - because he was right, wasn't he... You swap the parts, you gain capacity. The new parts are what give you the greater capacity in the older mag body - just like he said. Instead of doing what the man suggested, you had to take another chance to be a dumbass again. You succeeded - VERY well. Doesn't matter if you're interested in entertaining me - you're doing a great job without even trying. Just think of how awesome you could be if you put some work into it! <lmao> I know there are other filks on here besides myself - that's the exact reason I'm here in the first place. For other people. The camaradarie is a definite bonus, and why I stay. Hell, the camaraderie is why I came back. What you post on here isn't much. What I post on here, in a technical manner, is for the entire current membership, and those that arrive in the future. If you doubt that, go review everything I've posted here. Based on what you've already done here in your short time - you'll never know that camaraderie that I speak of... Grab a sandwich, recline your seatback, lower your tray table, and make yourself comfortable for that long trip. <thumbsup>

Noveske KX3. Boom, drop the mike.

Gary, measure the diameter and working length of your takedown pin. I might have one that will work, if the dimensions are the same. I don't have any pivot pins, though.

Backwoods AssRanchers.

That DPMS .338 Fed receiver is the same as the .308 Win receiver - short action round-based. Have at it. <thumbsup>

I sure won't help you with anything, though. If you were on fire, I wouldn't piss on you to put you out. My opinion.

All the $hit this guy comes back at me on - he didn't have a damn thing to say about this thread... hmmm... Wonder why that is?...

Now THAT ^^^ is fuckin FUNNY!!! <lmao> <laughs>

Ran your mouth to me before you could figure out exactly what Robo was talking about, didn't ya?... That's hilarious. <lmao>

Why are you asking me? You never listen to anything I say, you just make your smart remarks. I suggest you get your parts in, and you figure out your rifle on your own.

Doesn't help me, and i don't care - I don't have an AK-AR. Hope that helps you out...

That 0.030" is locking you up. 30-thou.

Your dimensions for those measurements have to be higher - thicker. That's what's binding the carrier on the hammer when you try to cycle it. If your measurements on your carrier are not higher in those areas (not thicker), then your upper has a different centerline bore than what's normal. It's centerline-bored too low - too close to the lower. No fixing that. Just getting a new stripped upper that's machined correctly.

For the "rear" measurement, I went in front of the forward gas key bolt so I could get on the flat of the gas key, and under to the pad. I hit 1.190".

For the "front" measurement, I went across the flat by the cam pin, and right under the gas key, down to the pad. I hit a 0.936" for that one.

Wasn't really concerned with that pad width or length, but that's interesting - your measurement. You hit a length of 2.25". I measured mine out (Fulton Armory Chromed BCG) at 2.020". That means you have a steeper ramp angle, and the Fulton BCG is a shallower ramp angle. Steeper ramp angles are gonna be harder on the hammer pins than shallower ramp angles. I'm more concerned with the height of that pad. I'll have pics in a few. Here's the pic of the pad length on mine: