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what is the proper cheek weld ar10/15?


pokey

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Probably another stupid question, but here goes.  On ar10/ar15 rifles all the cantilevered one piece scope mounts seem to be around 1 1/2" high scope centerline to rail.  I find that a 1 1/8" would be a better cheek weld ,and messing with butt stock risers with charging handle interference issues don't sound fun. Fitting regular rings don't always work. Are these a normal issues?  Is there a reason for 1.5" scope to rail height?  I would think that at 1.25" height you could still have a 50mm objective bell, I have a 42mm bell. What are some of the ways you guys get around this with A2 or M4 butt stocks.

  I rest my cheek bone itself on top of the stock, or is this wrong?  Is this just something to live with?

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 I rest my cheek bone itself on top of the stock, or is this wrong?  Is this just something to live with?

 

That is a correct cheekweld.

 

A shooter's two options are to lower the scope or raise the comb of the buttstock.  As the ARs were designed for a straight-line recoil, that limits your scope-lowering options.

 

It is also the reason that the aftermarket is swamped with a multitude of risers, cheek rests, and various height-adjustable comb buttstocks.

 

My only experience on the AR types is with the MagPul PRS.  It is a well thought out design, adjustable not only for cheek rest height but for length also.

 

When I still had my M1A, I chased the cheekwelld with scope all over the place.  What a pain the butt!  Especially after shooting with irons so well, a seemingly perfect cheekweld helping proper form.

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I'm sure there is a "proper" position but for me getting a consistent sight picture makes the real difference in accuracy. I worry more about finding an easily repeatable position. On one rifle putting my nose on the charging handle does this for me and on another the position of my cheek bone is the indicator. I've ended up with a healthy supply of scope mounts searching for what worked on each rifle.

The sight picture will tell you what you need, here are a couple videos that explain it much better than I could;

 

 

 

Edited by jtallen83
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     Pretty much every one has a some what different cheek weld . Its all about how your face is made up , some have rounder faces , some have thinner faces , which puts the cheek in a different position on a stock .  The PRS & there are others , is one that will adj. for many differences in face bone structure , I rest my face on the stock with the stock under my cheek bone , which may be what they are talking about & I have to use Xtra high rings on all my AR's , be it a rife or collapsable . The bad thing about the PRS is , its a heavy stock , being its got all those controls on it .

     Ring manufacturers measure ring height in different ways & that can mess with your cheek weld also or any measurement. I use a ruler set to measure vertically , so I can read it from my cheek weld position & when you look down the rifle , you can see about what measurement you want or you can set a low ring on the rail & raise it a little at a time to see where its center measures , when it looks right. Ether way it a hassle , but once you have a ring height ( theres a lot of different ones out there ),your set for that particular stocks cheek weld .

    For those that no ring set up is correct & yes some just don't work , an adjustable cheek riser is the answer. There is also stick on pads that attach to the rifle stock , in different thicknesses to compensate for ring height or lack of it . Some collapsable stocks have adjustable risers also. (Magpul for one )

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I would think that at 1.25" height you could still have a 50mm objective bell, I have a 42mm bell. What are some of the ways you guys get around this with A2 or M4 butt stocks.

I use LaRue LT120 rings with my Leupy Mark 6 3-18x44. Places the optic 1.285" above. The 1.5" of the LT104 was too high for me on a .308 AR.

Edited by FaRKle!
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  • 2 weeks later...

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