Form 1 suppressor

[392heminut]

Okay, the old thread got a little off track and it is old so I'll start another one about my suppressor build.

I got all my parts (tube, endcaps, spacer tubing, and muzzle brake) from SD Tactical;

http://www.sdtacticalarms.com/

The freezeplugs for the baffles are just regular Sealed Power 381-3179 freeze plugs sourced from NAPA.

Here's the titanium tube and the end caps in the raw.

The outer endcap is aluminum and is undrilled but comes with a starter dimple centered on the inside. The other endcap, which SDTA calls the 'thread protector' is the one that screws onto their muzzle brake and I got mine in titanium.

[392heminut]

SDTA sells a little centering tool that sits in the freeze plugs so you can drill a 3/16th" starter hole.

 

[392heminut]

Once the center holes are drilled in the freeze plugs you can then start forming the cones in a press. You place the plugs over a socket to do so and if the socket is not snug then put a few wraps of tape around it so the plug fits snug. The first step to forming the cone is done with a 45 degree taper. I pulled one off the end of my gear puller to use for this. You start forming the cone by pressing the tapered end into the plug until the shoulder of the cone is down even with the freeze plug. You then take the 45 degree end out and finish forming the cone with a 60 degree tapered end. I got a cheap Morse #2 tapered dead stock and cut the end off. If you're building a 30 caliber silencer like I was you can press the 60 degree taper in until you are almost to the diameter of the hole needed. Most go about .060 bigger than the caliber so for .308 it would be about .368. If you're building a .22 cal. can you will probably have to stop with just the 45 degree tapered end so you don't make the baffle holes too large. The more you press the cones into the freeze plugs the bigger the hole gets.

[392heminut]

After the cones are formed you should have a nice curved looking cone in the freeze plugs.

[unforgiven]

Damn good job brother Larry.

[392heminut]

I ran a 3/8" drill bit through my baffles after forming them, which gives me a .375 hole. Plenty of room for a .308 bullet to pass but not excessive. This is how the baffles will stack up inside the tube, with the cones towards the muzzle;

 

[Malig8r]

 Very cool Hemi !!!

[ChaseFan9]

Great job, Hemi!

Great timing, too, what with all this talk about the hearing protection act going on...

[lakeracer69]

I assume you're going to have a blast baffle section in the rear of the tube? Nice job on the "M" baffles BTW.

[392heminut]

Okay, lets see if I can get this build finished up. This is the muzzle break from SD Tactical with the thread protector (rear cap) threaded into it.

The brake protrudes just a bit over 1.25" from the thread protector so I shot for a blast chamber of about 1.5" I stacked 12 baffles into the tube, then a .5" spacer and another baffle and measured and that put me just a little over 1.5" for the blast chamber. I cut the blast chamber spacer about .10" longer than what my measurement showed that I needed. I did this because the internals can settle together and get loose the first time it is shot. After taking the can to the range and putting 90 rounds through it I went home and tightened it and measured the gap between then endcap shoulder and the edge of the outer tube and filed that amount off of the blast chamber spacer to get a good snug fit. I ended up taking about .050 off of the spacer tube and everything fits nice and tight now.

[392heminut]

I painted the can with VHT Flame Proof header paint, which is rated for 1300-2000 degrees and after it dried I cured it in the oven according to the directions on the can. Don't tell my wife I used her oven, she doesn't know! So far the paint job has held up great and it can easily be repainted if it gets scratched up.

What you can't see in the pic is the can is engraved with the name of my trust as manufacturer, a serial number (whatever the builder wants to use), caliber and model number. All of this is required by the ATF and must be entered on the form you submit to them to get your tax stamp along with the overall length of the finished suppressor. You can list it longer on the form than the actual length (within reason) but the length shown cannot be shorter than the finished suppressor.

Another thing that can get you into trouble is changing parts in the can after it is built. That is a big no-no with the ATF! Once it is finished it can only be modified by a properly licensed dealer/manufacturer. You can alter the internals such as fine tuning the spacer like I did or clipping the baffles but you cannot legally change out any of the parts.

The suppressor is legal to use with any caliber equal to or smaller than the caliber engraved on the suppressor. You can't register it as a .308 caliber and then later drill it out and use it for say a .338.

That pretty much sums it up I think. If anyone has any question post them up and I'll answer to the best of my ability.

Edited November 3, 2015 by 392heminut

[sketch]

Good work brother! Ill be doing this my next go around ?

[mrmackc]

Man O" Man This is a well written, and illustrated article most comprehension-able one I have ever seen on making a suppressor, ever!

Great job and a credit to your skills and intellect. With your permission I would like to put your posts into a Word Document, send you a copy by email just in case you want to pass out a copy for our member's shop books.  If you don't like it chunk it into file 13, and that will be the end of that, It is your work.

THANKS for sharing this project with the forum members.

Mrmackc

The brake protrudes just a bit over 1.25" from the thread protector so I shot for a blast chamber of about 1.5" I stacked 12 baffles into the tube, then a .5" spacer and another baffle and measured and that put me just a little over 1.5" for the blast chamber. I cut the blast chamber spacer about .10" longer than what my measurement showed that I needed. I did this because the internals can settle together and get loose the first time it is shot.

I just have one question: I don't recall seeing what you used for the .5" spacer. did I miss something?

[392heminut]

The spacer material I used is titanium spacer tubing sold by SD Tactical that is turned down to fit inside their outer tubes. It comes in 4" pieces and I cut it with a pipe cutter. Titanium can be a biotch to cut with any kind of saw as it gets harder when it gets hot. The Ti spacer tubing is only .030 thick but some guys have had problems cutting it with a pipe cutter. I suspect their cutting blades are dull, as I used a new cutter I bought from Lowes and had no problem cutting it. It's kind of flexible so you have to go somewhat light on the cutter tension and make several turns to cut it but it works. Ti is kind of pricey and SDTA has stainless spacer tubing that is thicker for less money but I wanted to keep this can as light as I could so I sprung for the Ti tubing. Both the blast chamber spacer and the .5" spacer were cut from that 4" piece.

As for putting it in a Word file, be my guest sir! I don't have any problem with others having the info, that's why I posted it up!

Edited November 3, 2015 by 392heminut

[blue109]

When do we get video???

[392heminut]

Blue, I can only do smart phone video and it's a pretty crappy comparison between silenced and unsilenced because unsilenced shots get clipped by the phone. Here's one done by a guy that goes by esstac on the boards. My build is pretty much the same as the one he has in this video.

[mrmackc]

I combined 392heminut's post together into a 3 page Word Document I tried to add it as a file attachment ,but that didn't work. if anyone wants a copy with the pictures PM me a email address and I will email you one as an email attachment.

 

392heminut 308AR forum’s homemade can

 

Okay, the old thread got a little off track and it is old so I'll start another one about my suppressor build.

I got all my parts (tube, endcaps, spacer tubing, and muzzle brake) from SD Tactical;

http://www.sdtacticalarms.com/

The freezeplugs for the baffles are just regular Sealed Power 381-3179 freeze plugs sourced from NAPA.

Here's the titanium tube and the end caps in the raw.

 

 

 

The outer endcap is aluminum and is undrilled but comes with a starter dimple centered on the inside. The other endcap, which SDTA calls the 'thread protector' is the one that screws onto their muzzle brake and I got mine in titanium.

 

SDTA sells a little centering tool that sits in the freeze plugs so you can drill a 3/16th" starter hole.

 

Once the center holes are drilled in the freeze plugs you can then start forming the cones in a press. You place the plugs over a socket to do so and if the socket is not snug then put a few wraps of tape around it so the plug fits snug. The first step to forming the cone is done with a 45 degree taper. I pulled one off the end of my gear puller to use for this. You start forming the cone by pressing the tapered end into the plug until the shoulder of the cone is down even with the freeze plug. You then take the 45 degree end out and finish forming the cone with a 60 degree tapered end. I got a cheap Morse #2 tapered dead stock and cut the end off. If you're building a 30 caliber silencer like I was you can press the 60 degree taper in until you are almost to the diameter of the hole needed. Most go about .060 bigger than the caliber so for .308 it would be about .368. If you're building a .22 cal. can you will probably have to stop with just the 45 degree tapered end so you don't make the baffle holes too large. The more you press the cones into the freeze plugs the bigger the hole gets.

 

 

.            

 

After the cones are formed you should have a nice curved looking cone in the freeze Plugs

 

 

I ran a 3/8" drill bit through my baffles after forming them, which gives me a .375 hole. Plenty of room for a .308 bullet to pass but not excessive. This is how the baffles will stack up inside the tube, with the cones towards the muzzle;

 

 

 

Okay, lets see if I can get this build finished up.

This is the muzzle break from SD Tactical with the thread protector (rear cap) threaded into it. The brake protrudes just a bit over 1.25" from the thread protector so I shot for a blast chamber of about 1.5" I stacked 12 baffles into the tube, then a .5" spacer and another baffle and measured and that put me just a little over 1.5" for the blast chamber. I cut the blast chamber spacer about .10" longer than what my measurement showed that I needed. I did this because the internals can settle together and get loose the first time it is shot. After taking the can to the range and putting 90 rounds through it I went home and tightened it and measured the gap between the end cap shoulder and the edge of the outer tube and filed that amount off of the blast chamber spacer to get a good snug fit.  I ended up taking about .050 off the spacer tube.  The spacer material I used is titanium spacer tubing sold by SD Tactical that is turned down to fit inside their outer tubes. It comes in 4" pieces and I cut it with a pipe cutter. Titanium can be a biotch to cut with any kind of saw as it gets harder when it gets hot. The Ti spacer tubing is only .030 thick but some guys have had problems cutting it with a pipe cutter. I suspect their cutting blades are dull, as I used a new cutter I bought from Lowes and had no problem cutting it. It's kind of flexible so you have to go somewhat light on the cutter tension and make several turns to cut it but it works. Ti is kind of pricey and SDTA has stainless spacer tubing that is thicker for less money but I wanted to keep this can as light as I could so I sprung for the Ti tubing. Both the blast chamber spacer and the .5" spacer were cut from that 4" piece.

 

I painted the can with VHT Flame Proof header paint, which is rated for 1300-2000 degrees and after it dried I cured it in the oven according to the directions on the can. Don't tell my wife I used her oven, she doesn't know! So far the paint job has held up great and it can easily be repainted if it gets scratched up.

 

What you can't see in the pic is the can is engraved with the name of my trust as manufacturer, a serial number (whatever the builder wants to use), caliber and model number. All of this is required by the ATF and must be entered on the form you submit to them to get your tax stamp along with the overall length of the finished suppressor. You can list it longer on the form than the actual length (within reason) but the length shown cannot be shorter than the finished suppressor.

Another thing that can get you into trouble is changing parts in the can after it is built. That is a big no-no with the ATF! Once it is finished it can only be modified by a properly licensed dealer/manufacturer. You can alter the internals such as fine tuning the spacer like I did or clipping the baffles but you cannot legally change out any of the parts.

The suppressor is legal to use with any caliber equal to or smaller than the caliber engraved on the suppressor. You can't register it as a .308 caliber and then later drill it out and use it for say a .338.

 

That pretty much sums it up I think. If anyone has any question post them up and I'll answer to the best of my ability.

 

 

 

392heminut 308AR forum.doc

Edited November 4, 2015 by mrmackc

[392heminut]

I built a 6" direct thread suppressor for my 8.5" barreled 300 Blackout SBR and thought I'd post the results here. It's a pretty cool package with what works out to 14" overall on the barrel and suppressor. This one will be staying on the 300 hence the reason for going with direct thread. I built this one with what worked out to about a 1.25" blast chamber baffle, then used a titanium automotive valvespring retainer for the first (blast) baffle with a .5" spacer after that and the rest is all freeze plug baffles. I was pretty impressed with how quiet it was with supersonic ammo, pretty much the same as the 8" suppressor was. I just got my hands on some subsonic ammo the other day and this thing is stupid quiet with that stuff! My oldest son and grandson are down here from Juneau Alaska and we took it out to the range (along with other stuff) and shot it with both types of ammo. When I touched it off with the subsonic stuff I was impressed but handed it to my grandson and told him to shoot it. I wanted to hear it without the recoil spring and buffer next to my ear. Damn thing actually sounded a little quieter than a .22 rifle to me! Now I'm all pumped to get on the Dillon and knock out some subsonic loads!