washguy Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 JROSS. Yeppers that pretty much sums it upWash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 I would not trust that replacement any more then the original that blew out . Just installing or suppling longer screws may help , but I believe they will only prolong the inevitable . Find a good Steel one & you could taper the Gas Blocks Port to throttle it from the larger Port in the Barrel , which may also help the Block seal , like you would counter sink for a flat head screw . It would not take much of a taper or funnel , to make it so the gas impulse is directed into the Gas Blocks Port . An Adj. Gas Block would be needed also , but maybe not with your Rifle Gas system . I'm not a fan of adj. Gas Blocks , I don't use them , but they do have there place & your issue may be one of them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 I just put it back together with the replacement block and longer screws. I bought some Permatex high temperature thread sealant and applied a thin layer between the barrel and the gas block where the 2 ports meet then tightened the screws. It may or may not help, if it blows out or not at this point an adjustable block is next on the list. Might get a chance to test fire this weekend and will have an allen wrench in my pocket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Jross fingers crossed....it'll work...permatex has never let me down...its the next best thing to duct tape there is.... Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 That picture looks like the gas block broke.You might want to get a new gas tube also and install the gas block and gas tube as a complete replacement unit. It will be easier that way.BTW ....Welcome from AZ !Thanks for the welcome....... missed your post and yes a minor malfunction, back together now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Fired 3 rounds and block screws loosened. Tightened and 3 more rounds. Screw closest to gas port hole slightly loose and other screw negligible. Signs of slight gas leak at port end of block. Cycling is not working with stove pipes. Will need some more test time to get it right I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Fired 3 rounds and block screws loosened. Tightened and 3 more rounds. Screw closest to gas port hole slightly loose and other screw negligible. Signs of slight gas leak at port end of block. Cycling is not working with stove pipes. Will need some more test time to get it right I guess.Jross.....$hitcan that alum. gb and get a steel gb thats not a clamshell type.. Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankh252 Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Jross.....$hitcan that alum. gb and get a steel gb thats not a clamshell type.. WashGood advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Anyone have experience with bushing the barrel gas port hole to a smaller size? Looking for and adjustable .936 steel gas block also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Anyone have experience with bushing the barrel gas port hole to a smaller size? Looking for and adjustable .936 steel gas block also. Jross might have to pay for the high end GB since you need to stop the bleeding http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_103_105&product_id=127 and I would buy it right from them so if you blow thru it you can go to the source with warranty Washno bushing for that tiny gas port Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Interesting gas block system they have come up with. I would not mind having one right about now. I guess with an adjustable block a restrictor bushing is not needed in the barrel transfer port. A warranty is a good feature also. So I emailed the company I bought my upper from explaining the symptoms. Hope I will get a reply soon and will go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankh252 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Interesting gas block system they have come up with. I would not mind having one right about now. I guess with an adjustable block a restrictor bushing is not needed in the barrel transfer port. A warranty is a good feature also. So I emailed the company I bought my upper from explaining the symptoms. Hope I will get a reply soon and will go from there. A full circle solid steel gas-block can't be beat. Personally, I don't think the minimal weight savings of aluminum is a good swap in such a critical high temp & pressure area. Neither does a clam-shell, where the stress is borne by the threads holding the clam shut. Any of them may last a while but none will outperform solid steel using set-screws and high-temp threadlocker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) I have three 308AR's , all with rifle length gas systems in three different length barrels & all have clamp on Gas Blocks & never had an issue with them & I think only one is steel ( will have to look , to make sure ) "EDIT " I just put a magnet to them & all are Steel ! Clam shell & clamp on Gas blocks are completely different in the way they attach . The problem here is a soft & weakly made Gas Block , not what its made of , far too many out there with out issues such as this & I might add the first Gas Block I have seen with this issue . Edited March 7, 2016 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankh252 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I have three 308AR's , all with rifle length gas systems in three different length barrels & all have clamp on Gas Blocks & never had an issue with them & I think only one is steel ( will have to look , to make sure ) "EDIT " I just put a magnet to them & all are Steel ! Clam shell & clamp on Gas blocks are completely different in the way they attach . The problem here is a soft & weakly made Gas Block , not what its made of , far too many out there with out issues such as this & I might add the first Gas Block I have seen with this issue .Yes I concede that a good steel clamshell is a more than adequate design for it's purpose. After all, the plane of exploding gas forces being directed on the gas-block are not really hitting at the optimal angles for ripping the threads from their nice warm beds. Still, I reckon I'll just always prefer that unbroken circle. Kinda like putting a ring on a good woman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Got a reply from the Co. : Without inspection it is possible for us to say with any certainty… However, from what you describe it sounds like it may be a magazine issue. What type of mag are you using? New factory or some type of aftermarket mag? Also, what type of lower (if the mag well is off this could also cause this) Magpul Pmag 10 LR/SR magazine and a polymer 80 WarrHogg LowerWill be inspecting the mag well for alignment and the magazine . Anyone know a good way to check mag well alignment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 What does the mag well have to do with the Gas Block Issue ? Nothing ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 It looks like they seem to feel the gas block is working as it should which as of so far it is operating the bolt and ejecting 1 round and staying open with a spent magazine. Now its a feeding issue. Time for a new thread I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepp Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 What does the mag well have to do with the Gas Block Issue ? Nothing ! those were my thoughts too....like theyre trying to pass the buck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 It looks like they seem to feel the gas block is working as it should which as of so far it is operating the bolt and ejecting 1 round and staying open with a spent magazine. Now its a feeding issue. Time for a new thread I guess.So Jross you went from a crap Chinese gas block made from an aluminum clamshell covering an over size gas port...to a non feeding rifle?...blaming everything on your stuff? okay its time to know who these morons are ? Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 So they responded to my email when I asked what magazine and how to check the magazine well and what lower receiver I have:Use a FACTORY mag. DO NOT use a plastic magazine… nothing but trouble. We’ve never heard of an “80 Warr Hogg” receiver…. Was this an “80%” receiver you finished? If so, almost all of our experience with people emailing us with functional issues are due to people using an “80%” receiver. Almost zero issues when assembled on to a factory receiver. You should stick to factory receivers, they are all dimensionally correct. If you do not have a CMM (coordinate measuring machine… and most people don’t) you can use a digital caliper and compare the essential dimensions in YOUR lower to a factory lower to see if any of them are “off”.It was an 80 percent but no mag well machining was required, just the trigger pocket was machined and that works fine. So I guess emailing the company who made the 80 percent lower is in order to see what they have to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slugger43 Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) So Jross you went from a crap Chinese gas block made from an aluminum clamshell covering an over size gas port...to a non feeding rifle?...blaming everything on your stuff? okay its time to know who these morons are ? WashI'm with Wash on this one. Feed problems? The round had to be in the chamber to fire and blow the gas down the barrel through the grossly over-sized gas port into that piece of crap gas block. Mag problem? 80% lower problem? What a load of BS! Like Wash said, who are these morons? I'm fairly certain nobody ever had a bad magazine cause a split gas block. Edited March 9, 2016 by slugger43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepp Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 More passing the buck, plastic mags are junk?!? They sound like x-caliber hoarding their top secret gas port sizing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) More passing the buck, plastic mags are junk?!? They sound like x-caliber hoarding their top secret gas port sizing Thats too funny ! I can agree with them on one point ( maybe not your Lower ) but some of the 80% lowers could be out of spec , be it by the final process or the manufacturer , so I can see some Tolerance Stacking issues . But that has nothing to do with a Barrels Gas Port too large ( which in itself can cause cycling issues from being over gas'ed ) but a blown apart Gas Block . All those Components are in the Upper , not the Lower . If you can send it back for replacement , repair or refund , I would do so just because it is out of spec's & with that Gas Block , dangerous ! Edited March 9, 2016 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepp Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thats too funny ! I can agree with them on one point ( maybe not you Lower ) but some of the 80% lowers could be out of spec , be it by the final process or the manufacturer , so I can see some Tolerance Stacking issues . But that has nothing to do with a Barrels Gas Port too large ( which in itself can cause cycling issues from being over gas'ed ) but a blown apart Gas Block . All those Components are in the Upper , not the Lower . If you can send it back for replacement , repair or refund , I would do so just because it is out of spec's & with that Gas Block , dangerous ! my thoughts exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRoss Posted March 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Here is the email I sent to Polymer 80 who manufactured the lower: Not sure if my email made it to you but I bought a new complete assembled upper and I bought one of your 308 80 percent lowers. I machined it out and installed the trigger parts kit and it works great. The problem I am having is the rifle does not want to cycle out of the magazine into the chamber more then just one round.Have you had problems with your lowers having the mag well “off”. And what magazines should be used? I have been using the Magpul mags . Sounds like they are blaming the lower and the mags being used on their upper. Is this a common issue ? Thanks Polymer 80 response: Well that’s an unusual response.Here is the reality, there have been thousands of WarrHoggs sold and of those at least in the hundreds have been built into shooting rifles. The problem with the below response is that is just doesn’t work when you have WarrHoggs and FAR more prevalently MagPul Pmags working flawlessly in the market place in large numbers.I cannot speak to their product, but as for mine, no, we do not have these issues at all. I do not know the company who made this upper but that response sounds very deflective and defensive and not very helpful. Our lower is made to spec and works great on many uppers and almost always has a PMAG with it.What is the brand of the upper? Can you shoot over a pic of the lower and upper mated so I can check to see if I can spot something? Thanks! So I sent a copy of this email to the company I bought the upper from and waiting for their response. In the mean time I have disassembled the bolt group for a cleaning polish and lapping where necessary. I took the extractor apart and see it has 2 springs and an O-ring. A smaller spring slips inside the larger spring and the O-ring around the larger spring. Did not know it used 2 springs............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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