Problem with .308 Bolt Ejector - Removed retaining pin but Ejector & Spring Won't Drop Out

[crocketmo]

Hello,

I'm new to this forum, so hope that I am doing this right.  I didn't see any topics to jump into with this.

I am in the middle of my first LR-308 build and ran into issues with a new Aero Precision APRH308186 Black Nitride BCG while trying to strip down the bolt for the headspace check.  I planned to strip down the bolt and do the headspace check pn the loose barrel before installing it in the upper.  (I have found this to be much simpler than trying to do it with the barrel installed.  Also, if there were something really screwed up with the barrel I could send it back since it was never installed.)

Getting ready for the headspace check, I removed the extractor with no issues.  When I got to the ejector, I depressed the ejector back to the face of the bolt and drove out the ejector roll pin using a 1/16" roll pin punch.  (I noticed that the pin seemed really tight compared to an AR-15 ejector pin removal.  I oiled the heck out of it and proceeded to remove the pin.  When the pin popped out the other side, I had to wiggle the punch to get it back out.)  When I released the ejector tension, I expected the Ejector and spring to fall out of the hole like they do on the AR-15 bolts; however, they stayed in the bolt and continued to function as though I had not removed the roll pin.   I rapped the bolt on the table trying to get it to drop out and I worked the Ejector up/down several times, but it stays in place and works just like the pin is still there.

Is there something different about the way the Ejector in this LR-308 bolt works compared to an AR-15 bolt that is keeping the ejector in the bolt?  I e-mailed AP, but they just replied the extractors are very tight on a .308 BCG.  I have attached a few picts for reveiw.

If anyone here has any idea what is going on, I would greatly appreciate some advise.

Thanks.

APRH308186C LR-308 BCG Disassembled Overview.pdf APRH308186C - Bolt Ejector Roll Pin Removed 1.pdf APRH308186C - Bolt Ejector Roll Pin Removed 2.pdf

[98Z5V]

Can't see the pics - not showing up for me.  What size roll pin punch did you use to drive that pin out?

[jim3326]

2 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

Can't see the pics - not showing up for me.  What size roll pin punch did you use to drive that pin out?

When I clicked it , it downloaded as a pdf on my desktop. Probably be a lot tougher on a phone if that's what you're using

[98Z5V]

33 minutes ago, jim3326 said:

When I clicked it , it downloaded as a pdf on my desktop. Probably be a lot tougher on a phone if that's what you're using

I'm on a desktop computer. It's definitely not because of any phone that I have, that's for certain.  Guarantee you that.

[crocketmo]

Sorry, those picts were pdfs - I attached the jpgs below.  (Still trying to understand how to use a forum like this - this is my first time trying this.)

98Z5V - I used a 1/16" roll pin punch to drive the pin out.  It drove out harder than I expected, but AP said that the tight fit is standard on a 308 bolt.  They didn't address why the ejector & spring are acting like the pin was never removed.  (When I say the pin drove out hard, I mean compared to an AR-15 bolt.  I don't think I pounded on it hard enough to displace any metal in there to capture the ejector.  The hole appears open and empty with pin removed.)

I appreciate you guys responding.

[98Z5V]

That's a pretty rounded ejector, too - do you have a good set of needlenose pliers that you can get ahold of the ejector with?  Give it just a little "coaxing" on it's way out?  There's a burr somewhere that's holding everything up, I'll bet.

[crocketmo]

Tough to get a hold on with needle nose with that rounded pin end like you mentioned.  I tried prying it around with a small screw driver with some elec tape over the end to prevent marring it, but that didn't work.  I worked the thing up and down a bunch of times thinking any hiolding it up (i.e. small burr like you mentioned) would give and release it just due to the spring pressure - no luck either.  I even tried using a nail set with taped end to push the ejector back into the hole a little beyond the face of the bolt, but that dang spring is tough!

It is kind of weird to me that when you work that ejector back into the hole and release it, I don't see anything at all in the hole like I would expect.  (Thought I might see something come into the hole where the flat part that holds the pin ends.)

Can you confirm that the 308 bolt works identical to an AR15 bolt and I at least did the right things to remove the ejector?

I do these builds so that I have a full understanding of the weapon, but this situation is wearing me out!  Might just spring for another BCG and give it another try.  If I get something working, I guess I could come back and do something radical to try and get that ejector out - no loss if I screw it up at that point.

I appreciate your response.

[crocketmo]

I guess I could try taking it to a real gun smith - just not sure what he could do with this, short of maybe trying to drill it out and replace the ejector??

It would be better if I just screwed-up, even if I wrecked the bolt; but, not understanding what is going on with this is really maddening.

[unforgiven]

I used this and an expended case hooked on the extractor worked up and down it eventually came loose tapped bolt on wood spring came out. You could use a dental pick to get it out. Surprisedly the brass micro flakes sized it up. Just my 2 mags

[unforgiven]

1 hour ago, crocketmo said:

I guess I could try taking it to a real gun smith - just not sure what he could do with this, short of maybe trying to drill it out and replace the ejector??

It would be better if I just screwed-up, even if I wrecked the bolt; but, not understanding what is going on with this is really maddening.

Grab a drink and relax brother it's not like you have water shooting out and no shutoff.  it's all doable just have to be smarter than the bolt 

[crocketmo]

Hadn't thought about trying to lube around the ejector and then work the ejector up/down - I'll give it a try.  (Already had a few drinks before deciding to see if you guys had any ideas on something like this.)

Thanks. 

[shooterrex]

Heamostats the curved ones and lube.

[98Z5V]

I've got a little set of Snap-On 5CF mini ignition pliers that would yank that ejector right out.  They're mean little bastards.  See if you can find a used one for sale online somewhere.  They look like this:

[DNP]

Little lube and a strong magnet?

[crocketmo]

I appreciate the comments.  I actually went the path of 98Z5V and tried a little pair of toothed side cutters with no luck.  That friggin ejector is hung up on something pretty substantial.  Also, that rounded ejector is harder to get any hold on.

Looking at the removed roll pin closely, it looks like a small piece is missing from one end.  The roll pin hole looks open, but there is something jammed in there that won't allow my 1/16" pin punch to easily go through - hits resistance where the ejector is located.  (This is all with the ejector depressed back against the face of the bolt.)  My AR15 bolt ejector retaining pin holes take my punch with no resistance with the ejector removed.  I have been using a set of Wheeler roll pin punches to do these builds - those punches are ok, but I don't think my 1/16" punch is up to this task.  Decided to order a good hardened and tempered steel Starrett 1/16" pin punch (and a spare set of roll pins) and drive whatever is stuck in there out (hopefully).

What I thought would be a fairly simple task has now become a quest!  I am learning that roll pins in general on a 308 build all seem to be tighter than what I have encountered on AR-15s - also had issues getting the gas tube retaining pin installed compared to what I remember on the AR-15s.

Thanks again for the help.

[crocketmo]

Got the Starrett 1/16" pin punch today.  Put the bolt in a jig I made to depress the ejector pin back to the face of the bolt and used the Starrett pin punch to clear a tiny chunk of metal that had been blocking the hole and hanging up the ejector.  (I think the rounded face on my roll pin punch would ride over the sliver of metal - the flat face on the Starrett cleared it immediately.)

The tiny chunk that I knocked out of the pin hole is sized right to be the chunk that is missing from the leading edge of my original roll pin.  I am wondering if this happened during original installation since it came off the end opposite that I beat on to get that pin out.  Removing that pin took way too much force until I got it by the ejector and probably where that piece of metal was jammed. 

In any case, I can now do my headspace check and put the bolt back together (once I receive my replacement pin).

I appreciate all who responded - turned out to be simple to resolve with the right tool.

Thanks again.