Big Olly Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Getting ready to remove the front sight/gas block assembly on my LR-308 AP4 in preparation for a barrel nut swap for a rail system that is still on backorder. I figured I might as well go ahead and get the gun ready for the install as the front sight/gas block assembly on my AR was a royal pain to remove. Currently soaking it in liquid wrench before I attempt to knock out the pins, but wanted to hear how much trouble it was for others. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 A big hammer and a good punch with plenty of support on the backside. If those pins are anything like the ones I've done on 2 AR-15's they are TIGHT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted July 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Yeah, if things don't go smoothly, I've got a block of wood I plan to dremel a relief of the assembly into in order to get some rotational support. Not wanting to repeat the drawn out battle I had with my AR. I am, however, planning on reusing the gas block portion of it by chopping off the front sight, smoothing her down and going over it with some oxpho-blue. Though the rail system I want will keep any exposed metal covered up, I'd know it's there lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Get a starter/center punch... and don't forget the BFH... Trust in your aim and the BFH won't fail. I secure the gasblock in a Brownells Bench Block, then a good hefty swing will usually get the taper pins in 2-3 attempts. Can't be shy with the BFH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 What Robo said! <thumbsup>I've seen a couple of AR-15's with the front sight cut off the gas block and they look pretty good after a little file work to smooth them out and some cold blue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Hoping it will turn out nice. I like the idea of having my gas block pinned on and if I can make it look good too: bonus! Going to give it another day of hitting it with liquid wrench before I attempt it. Not sure as to how easy the factory free float tube will come off either, but being that it will not be reused, I cannot guarantee it's safety lol. I am not even wanting to think about the barrel nut right now though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Get a starter/center punch... and don't forget the BFH... Trust in your aim and the BFH won't fail. I secure the gasblock in a Brownells Bench Block, then a good hefty swing will usually get the taper pins in 2-3 attempts. Can't be shy with the BFH!What Robo said the bench block is the key...the orange one...and ive got a punch that is used for the taper pins only...forgot where I got it though <dontknow>ive never "knock on wood" had a problem with the taper pin removal and I use my lil brass gunsmith hammer <thumbsup> Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Gentlemen, thanks for your words of advice. I couldn't help myself and went out to get things going. A little more than an hour's worth of time with a permanent marker, the dremel and that spare block of wood I had laying around gave way to a makeshift front sight block. I'm sure the liquid wrench played a part, but sure enough, three good raps on the front pin and two raps on the rear with the BFH and a good punch got the pins out. I went ahead and labeled which pin came from each slot, just seemed like a good idea.All of the stuff I need to remove the free float tube, muzzle brake, and blue the front sight block should arrive tomorrow so the break down will continue. Going to try the Rail Vise from Brownells with removing the muzzle brake and free float tube. I know they say not to attempt a barrel swap with it so I'll look into getting an actual vise and Panther Claw. I wasn't able to start dremel work on the front sight block of course due to the muzzle brake keeping it trapped on the barrel.Don't like having her broke down like this for so long waiting on the rail system to come in, but I want to have her ready to go whenever it arrives. Hopefully, the only thing left to do after tomorrow will be to remove the barrel nut.Thanks again for the tips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Don't use a centerpunch-anything. Don't do it. Look at the pins, and you're gonna see that one side of the pins is bigger than the other - fat, and not-so-fat, with the pins. On the SKINNY side, you need to drive. NOT on the FAT side. Look at the diameter of the SKINNY side, and pick a punch head that's BIGGER than that pin. I ain't kidding. Use that fat-ass punch, and a really big, heavy hammer (not some roofing hammer), and hit that pin like it took something from you. You might need to hit it 2 or 3 times, but it'll move. Right after it moves, you'll know it, you will. At THAT point, move to a smaller punch, and start driving it more - it still won't be easy. Once you move it a little more, move to the "right-sized" punch to drive it out, and hit it more.You'll waste ALOT less time doing it like I'm saying, and you might just save yourself from a bicep-tear-repair surgery. Don't mess around with small punches, and small hammers, at least not in the initial stages when you're trying to get those taper pins moving. Go big or go home. Anybody telling you anything less either hasn't done it (but they've read about it! ;D) , or they're playing tricks on you.My $0.02. <dontknow> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 I ain't kidding. Use that fat-ass punch, and a really big, heavy hammer (not some roofing hammer), and hit that pin like it took something from you. <lmao> Very well put! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Yeah, in addition to the modified piece of wood, I started out with a punch that was larger than the pins. I was surprised as the rear pin went straight out on the second whack. The front pin took two whacks to get flush and then one last hit with a smaller punch before it dropped out. It went much easier than I was expecting after my last experience with removing pins from a front sight gas block. All of the stuff I ordered came in today so I'll continue with the breakdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Use barrel blocks for muzzle device removal or install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Well, using the Rail Vise I was able to remove the flash hider which allowed me to take off the front sight/gas block assembly. Though I wasn't able to remove the free float tube, I was able to shave the front sight off of the gas block and trim it down.The Oxpho-Blue did a good job in my opinion, especially with my wiping it on with just a Q-tip versus #0 steel wool as it mentions on its directions (yes, I actually read them lol). Below are some pics of the modified gas block. I think it will fit the Troy MRF-308 Battle Rail just fine, but without it here to test fit, it's a crap shoot. What do y'all think? I took off what I considered to be a good amount of material using that mantra of easier to remove than it is to put back on. Please excuse the picture quality as my cell phone camera leaves a lot to be desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Just a quick update:After installing a bench vise and getting a DPMS panther claw, the free float tube and barrel nut came right off as of last week. The barrel nut was much easier than I thought it would have been, but then again, it had been soaking in coat after coat of liquid wrench for several days. Definitely going to be getting a panther claw for my AR so I can handle working on either platform. Now I just have to wait for the rail to come off of backorder. According to Troy, it could be September. Thanks again for everyone's input on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Hiya what kinda troy rail you looking for? Did you and who did you talk to at troy? not being nosy,but maybe I can help you obtain the troy rail <thumbsup> Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Wash, I didn't catch the name of the nice lady I spoke to at Troy, but I'm looking for the Troy MRF-308 Battle Rail for a DPMS LR-308 with the low profile upper. It's been two months now since I placed it on backorder at Midway USA. Called Midway USA last week and they said their estimated date was more of a guesstimate than an actual date they expect to receive it. Being the "take care of my own business" person I am, I then called Troy directly and best they could tell me was hopefully sometime in September as this was one of their most popular rail systems. The Troy part number listed on Midway was SRAI-308-D3BT-00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Wash, I didn't catch the name of the nice lady I spoke to at Troy, but I'm looking for the Troy MRF-308 Battle Rail for a DPMS LR-308 with the low profile upper. It's been two months now since I placed it on backorder at Midway USA. Called Midway USA last week and they said their estimated date was more of a guesstimate than an actual date they expect to receive it. Being the "take care of my own business" person I am, I then called Troy directly and best they could tell me was hopefully sometime in September as this was one of their most popular rail systems. The Troy part number listed on Midway was SRAI-308-D3BT-00.Olly these two show them to be in stock :) Washhttp://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/2-TRY308C3BT00 http://www.atomictactical.com/Troy_BattleRail_MRF_308_13_8_for_DPMS_Low_Profile_p/srai-308-d3bt-00.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Thanks Wash! I had my run in with the Cheaper than Dirt listing. It says low-profile, but the part number listed is for the high-profile and they had no way to check the part itself. Never done any business with Atomic Tactical, but glad to see they have it in stock. Any word on them? Maybe I'll be cancelling the backorder after all. I've been looking all over for this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Olly call this ctd here in Texas..and ask them to check for you...these guys are nice...just in the store last week.they will solve the problemo for you Wash 2058 West University Drive McKinney, TX 75071(469) 952-6200 cheaper than dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Thanks Wash! I'll definitely be following up with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted August 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 Upon following up with them, no one has these things in stock. Called Troy Industries directly and they said it will be between late September and early October before more ship due to them waiting on components. They say good things are worth waiting for, but man... that'll put my total wait up to 4 to 5 months for this rail system. Does anyone else make a quad rail for the low profile upper that is anywhere close to the 13.8" of the Troy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 Apex CNC makes a low profile "modular" handguard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Olly Posted August 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 Thanks Robo! It looks nice, but man are they proud of it. The handguard is nice, but it doesn't come with any rails and is the same price as the Troy. By the time I got all of the rail sections I'd need for it, it would cost $100 more than the Troy. It looks great though. Probably going to wind up waiting on the Troy, not wanting to settle and I guess I can look at this as time I could be saving up for my Eotech. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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