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Posted

Each rifleman must work out his own salvation regarding AR gas blocks, but it's pinned ones for me from now on.  I have one with set screws and red Loctite did settle the loosening issue I had, but I could see shooting enough to melt the Loctite and get loosening again.  I'll take it hunting and to the range, but won't run it hard.  Don't like feeling like I always need to make sure the gas block isn't coming loose.

 

Having said that I know quite a few rifles with set screw and clamp on gas blocks serve their owners just fine.

Posted

 I have one with set screws and red Loctite did settle the loosening issue I had, but I could see shooting enough to melt the Loctite and get loosening again.

Easy fix.  Stake the set screws, just like you would stake the gas key bolt on a bolt carrier, and like you'd stake the lockring on the carbine receiver extension. 

 

They won't loosen up after that, unless you make them loosen up.

Posted

98Z5V, sure, I could see staking my set screw gas block; only downside I see is it would make it harder to later go with a different gas block.  Is that your gas block of preference -- set screw type?

Posted

Don't have a preference reallty, but I don't hesitate in using the set-screw gas blocks. I just stake the screws.

 

I guess I do have a preference now - only used this one time, but I'll be using them for everything in the future - Geissele Super Gas Block.

 

http://geissele.com/super-gas-block.html

 

More details of it in this thread:

Posted

For anyone interested to know, the Givati Co USA adjustable gas block I received was slightly out of spec. The hole in which the gas tube fits was a few thousandths too small, likely from the QPQ coating. I fixed it by wrapping some 600 grit sandpaper around a drill bit and working it in the hole until it polished out to spec.

 

Fortunately the rifle is finally finished, because I am tired of fixing things that shouldn't need to be fixed in the first place.

Posted

I left the set screws in there when drilling for the pin - then left the set screws in there after pinning, and put the FFHG back on.  That barrel shoots the lights out, and it's obvious that the set screws weren't doing anything to the accuracy.

 

Our new F Class buddy will probably tell us different, since he knows everything about F Class, which directly translates over to 14.5"-length-barrel 300BLK rifles.  Time will tell.  <dontknow>

Posted

I have never staked set screws on a gas block, but that is a good idea.  I have used rocksett for several years now, and it is tough.  I have tried to remove screws that I have rocksett and they will not come out.

Posted

I agree; staked set screws with properly dimpled barrel should be go-to-war solid.  Will do a couple of builds with that approach in due time and report back after considerable rounds are expended.

Posted (edited)

survivalshop,

 

Don't burst my bubble.  I'm still believing that "old" is a state of mind, no?  ;-)

If you can find it, that'd be cool.  No pressure 

 

  I found the Article , but was wrong on some of it ( age , I tell ya & that's my story & I'm sticking to it ) . I will post the quote from it when I get a chance to type it down word for word & it was taking about the tapered pins as being a problem , not set screw types .

Edited by survivalshop

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