IM_JOHNNYV

I think it's pretty amazing how many different opinions there are on this subject. My .300 Winchester Mag has had over 3000 rounds through it and from day one shot under an inch at 100yds, after I cleaned the copper fouling from the barrel, I was lucky to get a 2" group from it. After about 150 rounds she started coming back to where she used to be, 1" or better.

And this nut, a strap wrench and nylon drift.....

I would shy away from Aluminum or brass - they will deform the material and leave unsightly marks. Stick with nylon or Phenolic....

Just put one of those on my AR15. Used the HF&T strap wrench, then to lock it up tighter, used a piece of nylon rod ½" x 4" long and gave her a few quick taps. Just my 2¢..........

Worked for a gun shop in Cleveland back in the 70's and we never did "Barrel break-in". If machined and assembled properly, I would say shoot it. Never had a problem with any of mine and I've been doing this for near 50 years, but I'm not critiquing new ideas or proven methods, but I know what has worked for me........... Just my 2¢

Hi Guys, Just completed a Zombie gun for my brother from a J. C. Higgins Model 20, 12ga. I used a FRG6300 pistol grip kit by ATI (fits Mossberg 500), ported and shortened the barrel to 20", fabricated from aluminum, an adapter for the pistolgrip, cut down and fitted the heat shield to a pair of rings that are silver soldered to the barrel, made a sling adapter for the front of the magazine tube, sandblasted, and did a Dura-Coat® finish in flat black. It's nothing fancy, but I always liked the J. C. Higgins Model 20 (Hi Standard 200) for its super slick action and durability, so when my brother asked me for a Zombie gun it was my first pick.... Picture is before (clone to the original) and after....... Hope you like it...........

Sorry seagiant, Thought your receiver was drilled only.........

You can, but I would not. I have seen many done with a hand drill and they come out perfect, but that's just not my style - my 2¢

Do yourself a favor and call to order the screws from SI Defense and ask them to mail the screws in a padded envelope or you'll end up paying $12.00 shipping. The screw size is 6-32. Drill a 7/64" hole and thread 6-32. You'll have to make extensions for the drill and tap or you can get the aircraft length drill and the extended tap from TruCutMFG. Forgot to mention, only open the back side of the hole to 7/64" and thread the hole so that the screw sits flush to about .010" below the surface of the threaded boss. Hope this helps.......

I made my own fixture for installing roll pins in low pro gas blocks. I used a piece of 2" Oak, cut a 1" deep groove in it the height of the GB, then filled the groove with JB Weld, place a piece of Saran wrap over top of the JB, then pressed the GB into place (I also put release agent on the GB, just for safety measure). When the JB Weld sets up, your fixture is ready to use. Used this fixture many times and it works every time...... Hope this helps........

I had the same thoughts on a barrel for my AR10 upper, that's why I opted for a barrel blank from Green Mountain. I have Hart and Shilen barrels on some bolt guns, but this Green Mountain barrel shoots better than I can hold the gun, plus it's a third or fourth of the price. I had to do the machining of the barrel, but that's half the fun of building the rifle, and a great learning experience.

BAD-ASS - The ONLY way to go... Trust me, you will not regret it........

Armalite makes one of the finest bolt and carrier units on the market. If you're going AR10 pattern, stick with Armalite. 762SASS carries Armalite bolts, and if they're out of stock, they usually are pretty fast at filling backorders. If you're going DPMS pattern, stick with DPMS. I highly doubt if there would be a failure in either BCG, provided they match up mechanically and headspace properly, but I'm not the kind of guy who likes mixing apples and oranges - if you get my drift.

Robocop, If you purchased the barrel and bolt as an assembly, send it back and get a unit that is within specs. or If you're in need of this build, do as Mikedaddy suggests and get out your finish reamer and do the repair yourself.

Go right to the horse's mouth and cut out the middleman. MechArmor

Looking forward to your evaluation of this product. As always, if it's from Battle Arms Development, it has to be great........

Great job..... Nice looking rifle - top notch parts.

Go to your local bowling pro shop and buy a rosin bag, cut it open, and use the powdered rosin. I've been using it for years and it works the same, if not better....

I went with the Armalite mags. Since this was my first AR10 build, from a raw forging, and barrel blank, I wanted to take out as many variables as possible. Parts not practical to make myself were from Armailte, Magpul, and CMC. With what I learned on this build will make my next rifle even better.........

Hi Guys, Click here to see my completed AR10

OK imschur, since nobody wants to help you out, here's my AR10 with TacOps-1 and BAD-ASS..........

Hi Guys, Finally finished the AR10, so I packed it and the AR15 (also never fired) up and headed out to the range. To say I was pleased with the results would be a total understatement. Out of the box at the range, both rifles performed exactly as designed. Both rifles had the first shot flyer (something I'm used to), but then grouped nicely. I was firing offhand, at 50 yards, only to test them for function, and was amazed with the results. I've attached the target, and when I get some time, will post some pictures of the builds.

On my AR10 I used a 6 - 32. The bolt catch screw was from SI Defense and I had to make a 4" extension for the tap

Why do you think babies wear diapers? To catch the baby oil.........

Makes me wonder what Armalite has to say about this episode. Nothing bad to say about AR308's, but this was billed as an AR10 and it was an AR308. I think they need some schooling on what they put on the airwaves before they claim their "professionalism"....... Just my 2¢.........