FaRKle!

Why not just buy an AR-10 pattern receiver extension (AR-10, VLTOR A5, POF P308, and others), AR-10 spring (EA1095), and AR-15 H3 buffer? It'll cost the same/less than one Slash CAR-10 buffer... DSG has everything you need: -Armalite AR-10 RE -VLTOR A5 RE -VLTOR A5 7-position RE -H3 buffer -AR-10 action spring If it was me though, I'd scour the forums/eBay for deals and used parts (probably won't find the action spring used, but the other two you can find).

Yup, the standard sig brace RE just screws in there. Not terribly rugged, but then again it wasn't designed to be hard use. If you're like me and tinker a lot with your rifles it probably won't be too beneficial to stake your castle nuts. I only stake the ones on the rifles I know I'm not going to change, and for the others I put a small witness mark with a pen/pencil. I can't say I've had one come loose though when torqued to the appropriate 40ft/lbs...

It's part of milspec assembly. All top tier brands do it. It's not difficult to break the staking when you want to swap parts back there, but it will prevent the castle nut from loosening on its own.

The Shockwave KAK tube offers more adjustment points that are secure. The Shockwave is definitely easier to use than the Sig brace. I have both.

Welcome to the thread! Hopefully we'll see you in this thread a lot more! =P No gun parts for me today, but did get some new shoes...

Nice! I'm surprised they went with a Phase 5 tube. You should upgrade to the Shockwave Brace with KAK industries tube!

The .308 rifle length buffer is shorter than an AR-15 rifle buffer. Is his BCG crashing into the lower? I'd look for marks on the lower/receiver extension where the shoulder of the BCG (where the diameter goes up and the rails begin) might be crashing into it.

I thought it was so that the mag in your gun drains after you come up out of the water with it. That way you don't have to take the mag out and hold it upside down...

Site's down :( Lake City is the plant, ATK (Federal is one of their brands) is the company that has the contract to run the plant.

Yup. First I thought, "Oh cool V- got the K9 spot!" and then I saw the dog and my thought changed to, "Damn, who did V- piss off to get the K9 spot?" lol. That dog is not very obedient or well trained...

Welcome from the Bay Area! Lol, so true! He really is worthless.

Let me clarify, each group was shot using the same ammo. Each group independent of any others was bad. It'd be plain stupid to try to claim something about group consistency while using two different brands/types of ammo. I'm very far from incompetent when it comes to DOE. Ammo used was SSA 175gr OTM and HSM M118LR. I've shot sub-MOA with the HSM out of this rifle with a Geissele SD-E.

I was finally able to get a hold of Elftmann today. I sent them an email last Thursday with the issues with the new trigger and have tried calling them a couple times per day but nobody picks up the phone and their voicemail box is full... When I spoke to Art again today I described the issues to him again and he said to increase the pull weight till it resets normally, then use it for a couple hundred rounds and then try backing it off to the desired weight. He said sometimes they need to break in. The problem with that is the trigger I received was way more used than the one I sent in so I'd guess it should be broken in at this point... I was also told I should've received "one of the latest" triggers, which I obviously didn't, and was asked if I took it apart to see if it's a newer one or not (of course I didn't so there'd be an easily traceable history for diagnosis). I told Art that I took pictures of my old trigger and that the serial number on the one I received was older and that I wasn't going to touch anything on it till I had spoken with him. Art was in a rush to do something else it seemed, so he ended the call before I liked and left me with a, "Put it in the gun and run it and see what it does. If it's still having issues we'll swap it again." Needless to say, I'm not interesting in spending $$$ diagnosing their issue. I paid for a fully functioning product and instead have been left with a $2XX paperweight for a couple months. I guess I'll have to ask Jay for a return...

Yup. I modified BMoney's with the VLTOR A5 7-position tube, Armalite action spring, and H3 buffer. It won't work with the stock action spring and buffer.

I was getting high variability even with consecutive shots (no malfunction in between). I also tested my consistency this past weekend. My friend and I loaded up the rifle with 10rnds. He shot one round, then I got behind the gun and shot one round, and then we continued to switch off after every single round till we each had a 5rnd group. I was actually very surprised at our performance. Both of us shot within 1.5MOA, and on mine I had 4 shots making one large hole.

Damn, this build makes me jealous... LMT is excellent stuff, I have zero complaints about my MWS' parts, quality, and workmanship. You've got yourself probably the best-vetted aftermarket BCG you can get in the .308 AR world... Just make sure you get a .308AR rifle action spring and rifle buffer and you'll be set (AR-10 or LR-308 rifle action spring and buffer should be interchangeable).

So a couple weekends ago when I tested the ELF-AR10 trigger in my PWS my groups were absolutely awful. I brought a friend to the range with me and we were both shooting 4-5MOA 5-shot groups with 175gr match ammo of various manufacture. I couldn't believe how terrible we were doing. Of course, we were also experiencing many failure to fire malfunctions due to the ELF trigger causing light primer strikes (we only went through one five round group that didn't have any light primer strikes, the others all had at least one). This past weekend I took a different friend to the range with me to test MechArmor's new "Rough Justice" trigger. Same rifle, same ammunition as before, but we were now shooting just under MOA-2MOA groups with zero light primer strike malfunctions. I know the USAMU says that weaker hammer springs affect precision, but I never realized just how much it did. Anyone else have experience with this phenomenon?

Man, I need to figure out how to get into the cool kids club. I haven't received a call! lol Going to test out this trigger tomorrow! Hopefully no issues unlike the ELF...

Un-Cure debonder also works on Rocksett.

I was definitely holding that trigger back when dry firing. I like being able to decide when to let the trigger reset. I'm sure if I increased the trigger tension higher it wouldn't have done it, but this is where Art Elftmann himself "tuned" my trigger to, and I want to see what his explanation for this is.

I'm very tempted to return it, however I don't want Jay getting stuck with a used trigger return. I'm going to see if Elftmann will credit them. After I took the Elftmann out of my gun I put the Mecharmor in there. No issues dry firing.

Well poop, I just re-installed the trigger and dry fired it a bit to make sure it's working and felt something strange upon releasing the trigger to reset... It's releasing the hammer when I let go of the trigger... It's done it 3 times in less than 20 dry fires... WTF. Installation procedure I used: 1) Remove old trigger and and safety. 2) Drop ELF trigger into fire control pocket. 3) Reinstall safety. 4) Install trigger pins. 5) Tighten set screws on both sides till tight (did it in 1/2 turn increments). I'm pretty sure I'm not screwing anything up here...

I got my ELF-AR10 trigger back today. When I spoke with Art on the phone he said he'd put a stronger hammer spring in there for me and set the adjustable trigger pull to 3-3.25lbs, his preferred weight. He also said that he thought the face of the hammer had some unusual wear on it. He said there were some parallel lines wear marks and said to check the bottom of my carrier. This wouldn't have caused light primer strikes though. I checked my carrier and it feels smooth to me... I was a bit surprised when I opened the package today and found that I didn't receive the same trigger back as I sent in (serial #s are different). I was a bit disappointed because I had sent mine in with the retail packaging and received just a trigger in a plastic bag. It also didn't have the newer housing that prevents the hammer from nicking the sides of the housing like I was told I would receive. I think what irks me the most though is that the trigger I received has considerably more wear on the sear surfaces than the one I sent in. I had fired less than 50rnds on the old trigger, and the new one looks to have a decent amount of use on the sear surfaces (although the hammer face looks cleaner than mine did...). They did give me a set of their anti-walk pins though, but I don't plan on using them.

Rocksett's no joke. My Knight's flash hider had that stuff on there. It took a significantly greater amount of force to break than when I hand time the muzzle device to 10:30 and torque down with a wrench.

I wonder if it'd come off if you ran a bunch of strings of fire on it. I had a muzzle device that I clocked to 11 o'clock with hand tightness, then used a wrench to get to TDC start to spin off during a carbine class. I was wondering why I felt like my muzzle was less controllable about 1/3 into the class and when I looked at my muzzle I noticed my compensator out of alignment.