beachmaster

Just waiting on labels! I should have them by Friday!

There were gauges in the buffer tube, and the retaining pin was bent, but I know that the pin was bent from in proper installation, due to in proper depth of the hole that it goes in. The buffer was not scratched. In fact, I believe it was a black rain buffer, and it had a biohazard symbol on the face, that was in good condition. The one thing that the gunsmith did say upon inspection, but only when asked, was that the head space was correct. Good eye from problems though! I have a feeling that if I could take my rifle to any of you guys that the problem could be properly identified and remedied quickly!

He works at a range... so to shoot a box of ammo, look at the cases, see a scratch, and say that a new barrel is needed, without more in depth evaluation, it borderline criminal. Like the car guy selling a new motor to a pregnant woman who has a cracked radiator hose. Can people cheat a couple of bucks and be considered legitimate? Sure. But this dude kicked a tire and made a crazy diagnosis. In my opinion. I would have had more respect for him if he charged $50, and said, "I checked the rifle, and I am not sure of the problem, but I forwarded the issue to Mr Ar gunsmith who knows his stuff, and told him what I found. Here is his phone number"

When I got the rifle, the buffer tube had some gauges from installation, and the buffer detent was bent. The problem was that CMMG hadn't drilled the hole for the detent deep enough. So instead of forcing it, I sanded a bit off of the bottom of the detent so that it could operate properly, without damaging or modifying the top of the detent like the previous owner had done when building the rifle.

Hey guys, I got my metal cams in, and I think that I have finalized my design, and my pricing. I believe that i will offer two options. A 1.5" top section, and a 1" top section. The 1.5" model would be 1.5" from rifle sling swivel to sliding cam lock. I dont know whether or not this would be esthetically pleasing to everyone... so I guess ill have to post a picture. I will be able to keep my new prices lower due to the simplified design. Forum member pricing- 1"-$45 1.5"-$50 For the webbing on the 1.5", I can only do coyote tan. Pics soon. :-)

Thanks for the advice guys. This is what I told the guy, and what he figured as well. I am going to look for a reputable Gun Smith in his area for him. I wish that he could just run it dripping wet for 200 rnds, I bet that would clear all of this up :-)

About a year ago I sold a custom built 308 Ar. I purchased the Ar with a CMMG lower, dpms upper, dpms lower parts kit, and a black rain ordnance barrel. I replaced the damaged buffer tube, the buttstock, the buffer retaining pin, and swapped the hammer spring for an extra strength model. The owner just called me. He recently fired the rifle, and was having light primer strikes. So he took the rifle to a gunsmith, who said that the scratches on the ejected cases meant that there was probably a bur in the chamber, and that the barrel would need to be replaced most likely. I talked to the gunsmith. He said that the bur is keeping the barrel from fully seating, which is keeping the rifle from ffilling going into battery, and leaving the light primer strikes, but he also said that he had not removed the barrel, or actually inspected the bore, but for the cost of removing the barrel, checking the bore, possibly polishing the chamber, and re installing the barrel, and possibly re headspacing it, would cost as much as just buying and installing a new barrel. Sounded like a greedy back handed gunsmith to me. My advice was to REALLY clean the rifle, then run it dripping wet as much as possible, for "fluff and buff". I said that if that isn't the best option, getting that chamber polished should help, and should NOT cost that much $. What is your opinion guys? I am inclined to not trust the gunsmith, as the owner gave the dude the rifle and a box of ammo, and the dude shot it, didn't really even inspect anything, and is charging the owner $50 for it. For what!?

That is some camera phone magic! That picture looks great! Where did you find all of that greenery in Az!? Lol jk

Haha no rush. :-) Maybe in a decade ill have a booth at the shot show myself! ;-)

The twin locking bars might not be necessary in a Beachin Tactical sling, since the proper lock can be achieved by weaving your webbing through the single bar three times, but that is not possible with the stock Vtac sling. That being said, I hadn't thought of using a second locking bar to secure excess webbing. With a proper lock on one of my slings, it could work... ill have to see how well though. :-) There is ~36' of 550 there. :-) of course a single strand of 550 has 7 inner strands, so that is a total of like 288' of cord including the outer jacket. :-)

Buying the materials to get started on Vtac style slings will cost $120. If anyone wants to do a preorder, if I can get at least 3 people in, ill sell them for $50 each shipped.

Check it out, here is my write up :-) enjoy!

So, the Vtac sling is a great design, but some people have seen some room for improvement. Recently, one of these people looked to me to make those improvements, and this is what I came up with. The Vtac utilized all polypropylene construction, which is pretty strong, and cheap, but not nearly as high quality as nylon. It is also much bulkier. I replaced all of the polypropylene in the padded section with my milspec nylon. The Vtac also includes plastic hardware, which my strap does away with entirely. The Vtac includes two plastic double retaining bars at each intersection. This is unnecessary with the proper locking technique with a single locking bar, but with the thick polypropylene, the proper locking technique is impossible. I included two metal locking bars anyways. Like everything that I do, function comes first, but form has its place. Not only does a 550 two strand diamond knot look great, but it holds better than a simple over hand knot, which has always failed me. (Only when I really needed it of course) I took the initiative to replace the old polypropylene piece, but will include it in case the owner prefers it, as I will do with all original parts. Here is the final product. I believe it to be not only stronger than the original, but also more esthetically pleasing, and more comfortable. This section of Vtac sling, called the Vtac Btac, is available as a custom order for $30, which includes shipping. It might be like buying a new sling, but it is about as much work too. The complete sling will be available for $60+ s&h as a custom order. 1" nylon colors include black, coyote tan, and Loden Olive Drab. For the 1.5" section under the 550 cord padding, only coyote tan is available. 550 cord colors include coyote tan, dark Olive Drab, patriot tan, black, multicam, and Acu If you have a custom order, or would like an existing sling to be modified, simply send me a pm, and I will gladly work with you. If it can be done to a sling, I can do it!

Lol, I need to post a video, but until I do, this is as good as yall are going to get :-)

Naturally, a right handed person, when putting a rifle on their back, likes to put a sling on their left shoulder. Here is how to avoid this common inefficiency, and properly utilize the Beachin Tacticals quick adjustment and transition system. First, fully loosen your Beachin Tactical sling. Then, with your muzzle down, first, take your sling in your left hand, with your firearm in the right, and prepare to put it's sling over your head, and onto your right shoulder. Your firearm should rest on your right shoulder, with the muzzle pointed down and to your left. From here, you can transition to your back comfortable. Now, to transition to your back, either push the rifle down and around your hip, or up over your shoulder. With the rifle on your back, tighten to a comfortable level. Now, to transition back to Front Carry, Low ready, or to your shoulder to fire, grab your buckle, and loosen your sling. Once this is complete, grab your rifle, and swing it around. With a little practice, this can be easily and naturally done in a matter of about two seconds. Practice and enjoy!

To get started, orientate your rifle and sling so that the female end of the sling (the end that has the female buckle) is towards the muzzle. Next, slide the webbing through any slot that will be used to attach the sling. Next, once the webbing is through your mounting device, run it back through the metal sliding bar loop, as show above. Once you have run the webbing through both exposed bars, pull to the desired position, tighten, then take the webbing back through the muzzle end bar, as shown above. Tighten your webbing, as shown above. This final step is critical, as it will lock the sliding bar and webbing into place. For a permanent application, apply Olive Drab duct tape around the sliding locking bar and webbing, to protect your firearm from the metal, and to lower your possible sound signature. Orientate your sling on the rifle ensuring that there are no twists, in preparation to repeat the step mentioned above for your buttstock sling attachment point. Enjoy!

Thanks for the Repost and recommendation Tom!

I do love Williams firesights! I have had a few, they really catch the light!

Oh! Bidding notice that you already got sights! Everyone loves the gbl for good reason... but i think ill do something a little different and go with the Henry, once they come out with the big loop lever for it, which will he this year. Some people dont like the tube feed... I am one of them. But i love Henry! Lol

I love these GBL's! Hey, Skinner makes a guarded adjustable sight for these Marlins that i think is pretty cool. I believe that it is a fully adjustable peep, with wings coming up to protect both front and rear sight. The look is love it or hate it... but I love it! My dad is looking for similar sights for his gbl, but i cant talk him into this specific set... lol Now you need to get a Magpul research bfr in the same caliber! That would be quite the deer loadout!

Hey guys, I have quite a few used knives up for sale in my manufactured area. All of it is made in the USA, and it is all good. Everything from a cheap M7 Bayonet, to a cheap learning/ truck/ boat knife, to the big bad Marine Corps Bayonets and the Becker Bk9. I have quite a few Marine Corps Bayonets btw, please stop by and check it out! http://forum.308ar.com/forum/120-for-sale-used-knives-and-bayonets/

I still have a bunch of these for sale guys! If you know anyone who would appreciate the best deal on a sweet bayonet, send them my way :-)

Welcome from Ky! If you decide that you need a custom paracord sling to finish your build, check out the Beachin tactical section on the forum! I do a discount for forum members :-) http://forum.308ar.com/forum/118-beachin-tactical/

Are you tired of your Ace Arfx stock? Because I think that I am kinda tired of my Magpul Moe lol I would like to trade my Moe with its carbine length commercial buffer tube, and stock spring and 308 weight dpms buffer, for an Ace stock with its spring and buffer etc. Preferably the 12" long model... Let me know if there is a price discrepancy and ill check it out and make sure that its fair. Thanks!

Well I look forward to doing it! I might have to start doing custom jobs like this, because my label order is taking longer than expected, and i ran out! But I still have around 12 slings to sell, so it should be alright :-)