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Albroswift

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  1. It would be damn near impossible to double charge on a 650/750++ Dillon. Have to really set your mind to it. Plus what he said ^^^ I started out reloading with a 650, I was buying/ shooting a lot of pistol, 9/38/44/45 glad I did. Was not that hard to master, even without youtube at the time! BUT If I was only going to load 308 and a few other bottlenecks a rockchucker would have been just fine.
  2. What press did you get? Agree with above posters about reloading manuals, good information in them besides just the data. I also like loaddata dot com, Wolfe publishing group good people so I don't mind the yearly fee. Great resource. If you have a good press, hand priming not necessary. I prefer the feel of my Dillon over my hand primer. Plenty sensitive. Personal preference, others results may vary. Puller is probably in the "Needed" category for starting out (and experienced). I have the luxury of multiple presses so I have a puller die usually set up in one. (Been reloading forever and still pull bullets occasionally) Also I like small base sizing die for the autoloaders. I swear by Imperial sizing lube, but every one has their favorites. If you get brass stuck, it's a real pain. Trimmer important. Sort out the military brass from the civilian, and sort by headstamps. You will find varying case capacity in different lots that really affect groups if not accounted for. I hate any brass that doesn't say "308" on the bottom, there is some "7.62" that works but I found a lot of it doesn't play nice in the dies. Probably get some arguments there. Old boy told me the best 3 bucks he spent for accuracy improvement is a flash hole uniformer. I agree with that, but they are probably 10.00 now. Chronos are really nice, but they are expensive. Lab radar is really nice, but over 500. Groups and fired case / primer observation will give you good indication of your loads while you are getting your arms around buying a good chrono. Love my labradar but used a chrony beta for many years. Take your time. Work on small batches of "best you can do" loads. Try the first few loads in the gun, better yet load some dummies. I have loads that look fine in the case gauge but are tight in the chamber. Speaking for myself only, my 308s, autoloading, lever, break action all seem to like length closer to minimum then maximum. Lots of folks around happy to help, and lots of different opinions, just shout out. One more thing, Mic McPherson's books are really worth adding to your library if you can find them, even though a bit dated.
  3. Lots of comps/ forwarders/ linear comps on ebay 3.25" to 4.5" search 5/8x24 Aluminum is nice for weight but welding the pin takes some thought. Used .079 on two 12.5" builds, .75 journal, first one would be similar dwell to a 13.5 as the sig gas port was about 1" further down the barrel then it should be. Second one re-drilled to correct location. Both run great. Just a thought, maybe we should start tracking gas tube length on the port diameter thread
  4. Why not, just no muzzle devices long enough?
  5. Spendy. Probably not necessary but who am I to judge! I looked at the Lyman "carbide" a while back but, when I read the description I think only the expander ball was carbide. The Dillon says "Carbide sizing die" $210 for the one die and backordered. Imperial sizing lube and steel dies does the trick for me. Have a Hornady set and a RCBS Small Base Die that I use for 308, crimp with a Lee FCD, some others floating around for backup. (Haven't needed those since I quit getting brass stuck!) Have a tool head with Dillon size and seating die for 223, think 556 head is set up with old Lyman dies, use the same Lee FCD for both. Haven't done any 556 in years, hate screwing with primer pockets.
  6. Welcome I hate reloading non-civilian brass, there is some out there that works but man, get a fat soft one stuck in a die and pull the rim off and it pretty much ruins your afternoon. Also less volume if I remember correctly.
  7. Get some confused looks from the brothers at the range! Kinda sideways like they are afraid to ask...Bwahahahahaaaa Really happy with the tank brake/ barrel extension, tames recoil does it's job. Going to switch out the comp/brake on the AR308 pistol with one, only inch or 2 longer then the one on there now, and lighter weight aluminum vs SS. bring it up to 16+ inches. Assuming the aluminum will wear out a lot sooner, wait and see. The Cerakote should help, coated the baffles and bore as much as possible.
  8. He says he has more, I have quite a bit already but that's hoarding prices.
  9. Back to the range with the Joker Drilling the bull at 100 yards, love the RRA sights. CMC single stage did the job. Function excellent, 100% feed, 100% extract, 100% LRBHO. 150 GR SST's and FMJ's over AR Comp powder. Starline and Federal brass. Couldn't have done it without the info on this board.
  10. Thanks. Lotta fun with the Cerakote.
  11. Finally got the Joker out to the range today, ejecting about 2:00, locks back and ejects 100%, unintended binary trigger. Seems to happen to me more then once. I can replicate it without a round, trigger and hammer back, release trigger hammer falls about 99% of the time. Think it is an Anderson in there, maybe I put the one I took out of the last build that was double tapping, don't think so but who knows. Anyway, gassed about right, no AGB to adjust 10-1/8" tube .079 port .750 journal, 9mm Odin adjustable buffer think I put all 3 tungsten weights in it 7.4? oz.. Anyway, new trigger and good to go. EDIT: Put the FCG into the SI jig, no issues. Put it back in the lower, binary. started checking, appears my 5D jig and drill bit is putting the holes just a little bit off, looks like the culprit. Got a CMC drop in on order Also got the Apocalypse out for the first time, 357 Sig longslide Glock 24. KKM barrel a little tight but shot super accurate. Never needed to fit a glock barrel before so sneaking up on it.
  12. Just added a "Monster Vault" under the bed. Took them a couple months to get it out, worth the wait. Not as secure as a heavy safe, but pretty much top of the line for lightweights.
  13. Bought a box from this guy on 1911 forum, brass as advertised seemed like a good deal. about 800 for 66 bucks. My box was 70% brass FC and 30% nickel FC. All looks once fired. No stretch marks, dents, or bulges. https://www.1911forum.com/threads/cheap-308-brass-price-reduced.1040940/#post-13518371
  14. We did that 6.5 with an 18" BA barrel, wouldn't even budge with Armalite parts, got all the way down to an H buffer and a ar15 carbine spring before we got it to run. Like the barrel was designed for small frame recoil. Drilled it and put the right stuff in anyway. Just wasn't right.
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