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Albroswift

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  1. You should be able to bake it to the same temp it would experience in a car on a hot day. Difference is Vortex would stand behind the hot car, maybe not so much if it had evidence of a baked on coating.
  2. Pretty cool. No buffer mass though and less carrier mass. My Deadfoot 2.5 runs good without the mass in 5.56 so maybe not an issue. (Unless you need heavier buffer).
  3. I have several Vortex scopes among others, Vortex has several levels of quality and several countries building them. Brother has a Crossfire 2, bottom end Vortex, I have mostly Viper HST's and PST's which are mid level + and can tell the difference between those and the Crossfire. Have a couple Lupolds, couple Burris, All good warranties and good scopes. Everyone will probably tell you something different but 700-1000 for a scope you can get into pretty clear optics up to about 24X and see a fly on a 200 yard target. If you want more magnification, either you will pay more or loose image quality. According to one of the Cerakote Ninjas I trade posts with, the Vortex will not take the heat that a Lupold will, if that makes a difference.
  4. If it is not stamped on the barrel (which it usually is) you can put a cleaning rod in with enough cleaning pad so tight fit, ark it with a sharpie, then measure how far it needs to move to make 1 full rotation. Or 1/2 rotation and double, etc. If it moves 5" to make 1/2 rotation or 10" to make full rotation you have 1:10.
  5. Good start! Going with carbine / collapsible stock or rifle stock?
  6. You will figure out quickly we live for this!
  7. Hello, @jeffery Post up what parts you intend to buy, before you buy, we may save you some money/ grief. Welcome to the forum.
  8. Picked this paratrooper up back in the 90's, little over 100.00. Used it for blacktail for a couple seasons. (No full auto sear, just the instructions!) Also have a second 20 round box mag for it, and of course all the bubba stuff, some of the 30 round mags, railed upper receiver and scope, I think somewhere around here a set of bubba black plastic furniture.
  9. Going back through some of the old builds, got to the 40SW Zombie Killer. Added a small block of aluminum on the mag release to hold the mag a little higher. Tried solder, muggy weld, one other "Aluminum" type solder/weld could not get a good bond. (After thinking about it later wondering if the AlOx media blast was imparting a oxide finish, go back to that later) Anyway, for proof of concept used JB weld. held solid enough to mill without coming loose. Gradually reduced the height of the block until magazine locked up in near contact with the closed BCG. Then set the ejector to just touching the top of the inserted mag, filed the top of the ejector until the BCG would clear. Threw a Cerakote black/ titanium stress and a CMC PCC SS drop in. At the gravel pit I could not find a round that would not feed, went through hollow points, flat points, round points, factory and handloads. 250+ rounds, little riser block still epoxied in place. No double taps with the CMC FCG. Need to learn how to weld/ solder aluminum but in the mean time solid shooter.
  10. @AKDanone thing I notice in the photo it looks like the bolt face barely clears the bolt stop. Does it manually lock back easily enough on an empty mag? Full engagement on the bolt face when it does?
  11. Love revolvers, love S&W revolvers, love SS Revolvers.
  12. I really like their 2+2. Looks like a fair price. Last couple builds used their SS. All good FCGs
  13. 45.9 seems pretty high, watch for signs sneak up slowly. Nothing wrong with slightly compressed loads as long as you don't start deforming the case. 168 Sierra shows 44 max on loaddata, but 168 Sierra HPBT does show 45.9. I like to see SD's when I'm running a ladder, fastest isn't always bestest.
  14. You are right there for velocity no surprises. Looking up your load, 44 gr is about max. Did you record SD's?
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