Albroswift

@PaddyMac I noticed the rear takedown pocket does not connect to the FCG pocket like all of mine do or like (most?) factory . Also, just maybe, clamping across the sides like you show puts just enough torque on the side plates that your holes drill at a very slight upward angle, causing that tight fitting safety.

@PaddyMac Looks like you have your jig in the vise oriented the wrong way, at least with the 5D you don't squeeze it that direction, maybe yours is different. Anyway, good work and good photos!

Yes, yes, and yes...

@PaddyMac I'm using the 5D Pro Jig, several lowers running well. Not familiar with the Easy Jig, post lots of pictures please.

@sagebrush OK, Actual photo is looking down on my 12.5" 308 pistol. The tube is the 11-3/8" one I made from a straight rifle length, (Too impatient to wait for White Oak? to get back from the Nat's ) The one on the left in the photo below is mine, factory tube right. Turned it down on the lathe very carefully and even more carefully applied the bend.

@PaddyMac Tight is better then loose. What brand lower and upper? Good luck finding 308AR specs! Post complete build list as you go, or better yet before you buy. The crew here may save you some grief! EDIT 308 or 556 80%?

@sagebrush Looking at that photo I gotta pull the shooter out when I get home and take another look. Gotta be an optical illusion. Gun runs fine BTW. AGB 4.25 clicks.

Looks good. Lets get this thing running!

2nd picture up is mine. All same diameter until "Knob", optical illusion maybe caused by camera flash. Just turns from shiny to rough where it slips into the gas key. Probably caused by fouling from escaping hot gases .

I like the KAK, running them in 3 BCG's so far. https://www.kakindustry.com/kak-bcg-ejector-308 Sprinco has great springs. Also, after loosing a couple I bought the tool https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bolt-tools/ejector-tools/308-ar-bolt-ejector-tool-prod72380.aspx

You will find a use for the spring and tube when you build your next small frame AR! Pretty sure no one has found a good use for a 2-1/2" 3 oz buffer yet. Maybe we should have a contest.

is this sr25 or armalite? I had a link to the low dpms pattern if you want me to dig it up? DPMS low profile if you have a chance. No hurry, already spent too much this week!

Hey, thanks. Been down the Tiger rock path, ever try to order anything from them? I gave up. Site seems to be set up for someone with a dealer account, can't get anyone on the phone. ABC doesn't seem to have one for 308, maybe I'm missing something. I love the JL Billet but don't want to fuch up such a nice piece. Looking for cheap to practice on. Still looking....

Yes, as in most semis, pistols and long guns, pull the trigger all the way through, release until reset is felt, should be right at the breaking point for follow up shot. Concentration on the reset. This is the first trigger I can remember that pushes my finger off the second stage break point, quite noticeable. There was a second spring in the package but the instructions said that was to increase trigger pull.

Just tried one out this weekend, I like the break but on the reset the trigger bounces my finger back well into the 1st stage zone, I have a CMC 2lb/2lb 2 stage on another build that resets right at the 2nd stage break point. Maybe need a lighter trigger spring?

Welcome from WA Can't post to many pictures! Al

And well on my way to use that last 12.5 Sig barrel Free shipping no tax, just the way I like it.

Good price, don't need one right away so on the notification list. Thanks. Now if I could find a 5.6oz 2-1/2" buffer on the cheap things would be groovy.

Paying back for all the great help here!

All the old mixed brass ran awesome except some S&B, primers seemed to seat a little bit high, not so high I would notice but the bolt noticed when it almost rotated all the way into battery but instead jammed tight on a couple. Only way to tell the difference was to put them in a case gauge and use a straight edge. Culled out about 10-15, all S&B. Anyway, some data comparing progressive weighed loads in mixed 3 times + fired brass vs single headstamp low use hand trickled loads. Progressive press weighed loads, worn mixed brass, 42.4 AR-Comp Fed primers 150 gr FMJ BT 12.5" barrel Single headstamp (Starline) 1 or 2 times fired max, trickled loads 42.4 AR-Comp Fed primers 150 gr Hornady SST, 12.5" barrel Red dot optics, couldn't tell the difference at 100 yard accuracy wise, budget loads perfect for the gravel pit. Barrel length data: 12.5" Sig barrel 150 SSTs 230 FPS +/- slower then the 150 SSTs out of the Anderson 18" barrel

So JBO is the brand? Can't find it on their site. Seekins and Odin start $50-$60

Drilled it 5/64 .078 Seekins AGB Have the Superlative Arms on the Anderson AM10 but don't use the bleed off feature so saved 50 bucks this time.

Killer deal. They have one less then a minute ago. So is there a better deal out there besides 65 bucks for a KVP 5.6 oz 2-1/2" buffer?

Yep, as far as I understand WA Regs, no SBR's. Tailhooks and SBA's fine. Shot the 308 with the Tailhook Mod 2 brace (7" tube), 5.6 oz KVP 2.5" buffer, orange Sprinco spring this morning. First mag ran great but brass at 1-2:00. 1/2 turn in on the AGB and 3-4:00 ejection pattern. Ran out a few of mags ea of 180 gr and 150 gr ammo, 100% reliable. not as much recoil as I was expecting. I like the SBA's because you can use a AR10 length tube, but kind of flimsy. The Tailhook is stiffer, proprietary 7" tube, but as long as the 308 will run reliably with the short tube, is a great adjustable brace. SBA3s are going for around $125, Tailhooks $150.

Yes, I am aware. Guys at the police range shooting them with bipods and high power scopes. But no SBR's in WA, stamp or not. Go figure... Also, looked at the box, it's a Tailhook Mod 2, not mod 1. Telescoping. I'll dig it out tomorrow and see how the 308 runs with the 7" tube. Take some photos.