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Everything posted by Albroswift
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@Cliff R Maybe due to being soft, thick, and fired in oversized chambers, but life's to short to mess with reloading 50 YO machine gun brass! I really like the Starline brass when I order new stuff.
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Put me in the belted magnum camp for elk, those critters are tough SOB's! We have killed them with everything from 308 and up, and bigger is definitely better. A well made comp and a Pachmayr Decelerator pad and the recoil is manageable.
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Like to get a remote like a laser, button near your index.
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Sweet
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Basically I vibratory tumble twice, first overnight Grit-o-Cob and Losso, then lube with Imperial, size and deprime, clean the pockets, then couple more hrs in the tumbler to remove the lube. Thinking of getting one of the pin/liquid type drum tumblers, really like the finish results but messy. Still probably use the vibratory for the first step.
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No problem, plenty of other projects. I did pay it ahead, sent a box of 38 to Festus.
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Thanks for the info. I like the Hornady expander in their sizer, has a nice radius. See if they have a 25 45.
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I did my part!
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I'm looking at the little cube shaped one, the "Session" Hero 4 and 5 Sessions are going for good prices. Do they have a remote switch?
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Ordered a sharps barrel, lite profile SS 16" Do you use a special die to resize the 223 brass? Reason I ask is Sharps has a RCBS set that includes a die for sizing 223 into 25 45. "This .25-45 Sharps RCBS reloading dies includes a three die box, a full-length resizing die, a seater die, and a die to resize .223 brass into .25-45 Sharps". Otherwise I'd probably go , RCBS or Hornady FL sizing, Lee factory crimp, any of the 3 for seating,
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Anyone mount a gopro on a hi power rifle? Handle the recoil? While hunting last week I kept running into game that wasn't bullet worthy but a photo would have been cool.
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I used the lee setup with drill motor adapter, with the cutter that chamfers and deburrs, in my progressive press, fast but when measured the cases were +/- quite a bit, don't remember exactly how much now but I wasn't impressed. This was for .44 before I adapted the Dillon RT 1200 to do the pistol length brass. For rifle the Dillon seems to give the most uniform results of anything I've used, but need to chamfer/ deburr afterwards.
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Just showed up last night, new rangefinding binoculars from Sig. I have been using (playing around with) the Kilo 2400 BDX rangefinder paired to a Sierra 3000 BDX 6.5-20x52 on my BAR 338 WM, works good to 800 yards, well over our typical 200-600 yard shots in this country (adding a Kestrel extends the range to infinity and beyond if I were to get serious). My old pair of Steiner binos are a gooey mess so needed something new and liked the idea of not messing with separate rangefinder and binos, so went with the Sig. Reason for post: Although Sig customer service is top notch, English first language phone reps that know their products, there are no forums currently discussing these units. Any one here have any experience?
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That is strange.
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@shooterrex Did you dimple drill your barrel so for sure they are both hitting the port exactly the same? Not surprised differences in blocks length, but would expect to see the set screw/ port/ crosspin geometry pretty close.
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Good stuff, Thanks! Al
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Something I hadn't considered, but perfect. I assume you have one, what velocities are you getting? Barrel length? Gas system length?
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Want to build something for Western Washington Blacktail on an AR15 receiver set. Regulations here min .24 caliber. Too many options, maybe 6.5 Grendel, 6.8 SPC, 6mm/.243? Don't want to go 7.62 Give me some ideas my friends!
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It looks like the ejector roll pin in the 308 bcg is longer then the one in the ar15, but I don't have one that isn't already installed to compare, only a couple spares for the ar15.
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Speaking of parts, what is the roll pin size for the ejector? I was installing the KAK rounded ejector and didn't measure the one I removed/ replaced, but the way things get bent or go flying some times it may be good to have a spare. Do we have a list of all the roll pin sizes somewhere around here?
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Yes, Aero is good about that. Not Aero upper and lower, just the parts kits. AMT 80% lower and their stripped upper. Used AMT on the last build, no complaints.
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I guess I could take the time to read the description of what I am ordering or look at the pictures, although they don't always agree... On the lower kit they say "Bolt Catch Roll Pin ans show a picture of a roll pin, on the upper kit they say a "Forward Assist Roll Pin" but show picture of set screw. Includes: Magpul MOE® Grip in Black or FDE *M5 (.308) Takedown Pin *M5 (.308) Pivot Pin Takedown/Pivot Detent Takedown/Pivot Spring *M5 (.308) Bolt Catch Bolt Catch Buffer Bolt Catch Roll Pin Bolt Catch Spring *Extended Magazine Catch Button Magazine Catch Body Magazine Catch Spring Buffer Retainer Buffer Retainer Spring Safety Selector Safety Selector Spring Safety Selector Detent 4-40 Set Screw (for threaded takedown pin detent hole) Trigger Hammer Trigger Spring Trigger/Hammer Pins Hammer Spring Disconnector Disconnector Spring Our upper parts kit includes the parts you need to assemble your M5 (.308) Upper Receiver. Includes: Forward Assist Assembly Forward Assist Spring Forward Assist Roll Pin Ejection Port Cover Door Ejection Port Cover Rod Ejection Port Cover Spring Fortunately my upper takes a roll pin and lower takes a set screw so I needed one of each anyway.
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That makes sense, except: They gave me a forward assist sized roll pin in the LPK but no BC set screw.
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Went with the Aero kits on most recent build, AR308 UPK and M5 MOE lower kit, When building the bottom end there was no set screw for the bolt catch, but there was an extra roll pin. Has an extra screw in the parts bin, finished up the lower, started on the upper, low and behold, screw for the BC was in that package but the roll pin for the forward assist was missing. So they include the FA roll pin in the LPK and the screw for the BC in the UPK. That only works if you buy both kits, otherwise there would be some cussing.









