Albroswift

I tap towards the rear on the charging handle with a small rubber mallet when I get one stuck. Haven't seen any detrimental effects from the procedure. Slamming the butt down does use the mass of the BCG to advantage but the little mallet doesn't frighten the other members at the range like banging the rifle up and down could.

After following this forum over the last couple of years seems like large frame AR builders ain't up to the same rigorous QA/QC that Harley or Ducati uses .

@MiddleLuke Got me stirred up so I went out to the shop, tried several tubes in a Toolcraft BCG with only 30 or 40 rounds through it. None had any resistance but they were all really close. no significant rubbing when aligned.

The i-Heart concert. Not even close to what I usually listen to...

I believe the "Mushroom Head" is designed to allow break in and good gas seal without wear or resistance on the tube. The "Mushroom" is the same diameter as the tube, except for where it is cut down couple thousands for the inch or two right before the "Mushroom". I would think a small amount of resistance should be normal, but I'm sure someone more expert then myself will come along and confirm.

Like the looks of the Wiz Bang guys shop in the background of the video, I don't feel so bad now...

If it barley cleared the chamber I'm going with no powder. Primers can get them up the barrel a bit with pistol primers. Had some 223 that I thought had bad primers, actually no powder and bullets didn't move at all.

@Scott Perkins Regardless of above comments, would really like some more/ better photos in the name of science. Also, no manufacturer or S/N: quite possible you will run into issues buying or selling, don't know what the laws are in your state but it would be tough to get it to fly here in WA. Maybe the S/N: and manufacture name and address is on the other side, check it out.

It doesn't have the lines of a Aero, even if Aero sold 80% forgings. It doesn't have the lines of a AMT 80% or one of the many that look identical and probably come from the same mill. It DOES have the basic lines of a DPMS/ little bit of curve bottom rear of trigger guard most others are straight.

Albro-zhimers strikes again-- Swapped the Dillon from large rifle to .40 S&W yesterday: tool head, plate, flipping the case dropper riser from rifle to pistol, large primer to small primer seating button and tube, good cleaning, changing the case feeder plate. About 200 rounds into the 155gr XTP +P loads already had about 3 cases come down the tube upside down, and two log jambs at the funnel end of the case feed tube. Man, don't think I've had this much BS in 25 years, what's up? Probably loaded more .40 then anything else on the 650. Power through another 50 or so before I noticed the pistol plate for the case feeder hanging on the wall. Had the large rifle plate in the feeder. Doh... Thing is I remember taking the hopper off the stand and removing the plate. Must have vacuumed out the hopper and put the rifle plate right back in. Dumped out the brass, swapped the plates, ran out another 400 or so without a hitch.

I have used one of these, a little bigger but same principal. The 200 degree feather soup gets really disgusting after about half a dozen birds. Photos/ videos don't do it justice, need to be there!

I have the Frankford wet/ ss tumbler and several vibratory polishers, the frankford does a better job, especially with the primer pockets, but for most range ammo 9mm/ 40/ 44/ 45 the big Dillon 2001 or small off brand vibratories with grit-o-cob and Losso is easier and faster and even rifle brass clean / lube/ deprime/ size/ and clean a second time the vibratory get used more in my shop then the liquid. Good cases can be made for either type, personal preference.

Friend just put one of the Rise Armament FCG's on his 308, after about 7-8 cycles (By hand) the hammer locked up in the vertical "Fired" position and will not move at all. Took it out, took the barrel and hammer spring out, re-assembled, two cycles and locked in vertical position again. Could not duplicate with the identical FCG I got little over a week ago. Opened a support ticket with Armoralley.

When I said Armalite Recoil system, I was talking Armalite AR10 Carbine extension, spring, and buffer. Here is the KVP buffer that I am running with the Sprinco orange spring: https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Kaw-Valley-Precision-AR-10-308-Tungsten-Carbine-Bu-p/kvp-ar10-5.6.htm

The SBA3 and SBA4 work on Armalite extensions so you can run the complete Armalite AR10 recoil system. The Tailhook Mod 2 is proprietary and AR15 length so as 98 said, KVP 2-1/2" 5.6 oz buffer and Sprinco Orange. Running both of the above setups with Mid length and shorter then mid length systems. Just got this Tailhook for 100 bucks the other day: https://www.gunprodeals.com/product/gear-head-works-brace-tailhook-mod-2-5-position-black-1 Like it better then the SB Here is a alternate to the 2-1/2" KVP Buffer, a just a little lighter, 5.3oz vs 5.6oz https://pur-tungsten.com/product/heavy-ar-10-308-black-carbine-buffers/ I always run adjustable gas blocks not strictly necessary but man, you don't need to get quite a precise with gas port , buffer weight, spring, etc. Don't get me wrong, first get the correct recoil and gas set up, but no reason not to have the adjustment option. Keep us posted.

Posted this a while back on another forum, 5D costs. Get all in for around $400 if you wait for a sale. 5D pro Jig $200 Tool Kit $55 (3 drill bits and the ready mill) 308 upgrade $60 Dewalt router $120 $435 including the 308 and the recommended router. Since then I bought a second ready mill and an additional replacement bit. The drill bits they supply are good quality, last 3-4 lowers before starting to dull. The anodizing is really hard on them, if you did raw I'm sure they would last for a long time. Cobalt bits are what I am using now. The end mill in the ready mill is heat installed so bought a complete second ready mill in case I chip a tooth or otherwise damage the bit in the middle of a job I don't have to get out the torch.

Part of the learning curve. My router has soft start, and I'm running both that and the vacuum off a foot switch. Still, got to hang on each and every time! No excuse.

@RedRiverIIGet on 5D's mailing list, they seem to have 10% off sales regularly.

Correct. Not keen on the phillips but I guess if I really hated them I would swap them out. They are durable enough to use the impact driver on them though. One thing about the 5D, first job came out perfect, one pass. Second one near perfect, little keyholing on the trigger hole (You can see it on the second photo above) wasn't hanging on tight enough when I hit the switch. Chipped a tooth on the mill bit 1/2 way through the 3rd job, wasn't hanging on tight enough a little over confident or something and it jumped a little. Ordered a replacement bit and a complete bit+ holder (What 5D calls the Easymill) for a quick change spare last time they had a sale. Every hole lined up perfectly and every FCG fit and functioned first time installed. Really good directions with the jig. Every lower went right into a carbine or pistol and never an issue.

Anderson ain't bad for the price for a mil spec FCG lately tried the LaRue 2 stage recommended around here and the Rise Armament single stage drop in also recommended on the trigger thread, both great FCGs for under $100.00 Either one hundred times better then mill spec.

@PaddyMac One other thing, looks like your hammer spring possibly is between the trigger shaft and the receiver housing, shoving the trigger to the right. Should be on top of the trigger shaft in the cut away and in the grove of the trigger pin. Blurry, could be wrong. I'll be quiet now...

Done half a dozen or so lowers with the 5D, .40 to 308, all shooters. There are a few tricks to learn but I would recommend. If you decide get one give a shout before starting, I could save you some "Oh $hit" moments. Photo is kind of blurry down in the pocket, but something doesn't look quite right, like your step "1" or "A" isn't deep enough or not in the right place. Should be flush with the bottom of the takedown pin pocket. Also, hard to tell but step "2" or "B" doesn't look far enough to the rear. Another thing the section between the FCG and the takedown pocket looks too narrow.

@aadavis94 Did you get the ejector out? If not, probably best option would be to send the complete BCG back to AP, they are a pretty good bunch, if they couldn't fix it they would probably just replace the bolt for little or no charge.

Tried the Rise on one of the AR's today, very nice trigger. Width is tight fit in a Aero Precision GII lower and the pins were a little long. AP GII AR15 lowers must be a little on the skinny side.

Is a Sprinco red heavier then an EA1095? have one left over from the AR40 tuning sessions. I also have a Tubbs flat wire spring, AKA "the biggest PITA to install/ uninstall" spring. Maybe just call it a win and move on to load development.