Albroswift

I have used one of these, a little bigger but same principal. The 200 degree feather soup gets really disgusting after about half a dozen birds. Photos/ videos don't do it justice, need to be there!

I have the Frankford wet/ ss tumbler and several vibratory polishers, the frankford does a better job, especially with the primer pockets, but for most range ammo 9mm/ 40/ 44/ 45 the big Dillon 2001 or small off brand vibratories with grit-o-cob and Losso is easier and faster and even rifle brass clean / lube/ deprime/ size/ and clean a second time the vibratory get used more in my shop then the liquid. Good cases can be made for either type, personal preference.

Friend just put one of the Rise Armament FCG's on his 308, after about 7-8 cycles (By hand) the hammer locked up in the vertical "Fired" position and will not move at all. Took it out, took the barrel and hammer spring out, re-assembled, two cycles and locked in vertical position again. Could not duplicate with the identical FCG I got little over a week ago. Opened a support ticket with Armoralley.

When I said Armalite Recoil system, I was talking Armalite AR10 Carbine extension, spring, and buffer. Here is the KVP buffer that I am running with the Sprinco orange spring: https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Kaw-Valley-Precision-AR-10-308-Tungsten-Carbine-Bu-p/kvp-ar10-5.6.htm

The SBA3 and SBA4 work on Armalite extensions so you can run the complete Armalite AR10 recoil system. The Tailhook Mod 2 is proprietary and AR15 length so as 98 said, KVP 2-1/2" 5.6 oz buffer and Sprinco Orange. Running both of the above setups with Mid length and shorter then mid length systems. Just got this Tailhook for 100 bucks the other day: https://www.gunprodeals.com/product/gear-head-works-brace-tailhook-mod-2-5-position-black-1 Like it better then the SB Here is a alternate to the 2-1/2" KVP Buffer, a just a little lighter, 5.3oz vs 5.6oz https://pur-tungsten.com/product/heavy-ar-10-308-black-carbine-buffers/ I always run adjustable gas blocks not strictly necessary but man, you don't need to get quite a precise with gas port , buffer weight, spring, etc. Don't get me wrong, first get the correct recoil and gas set up, but no reason not to have the adjustment option. Keep us posted.

Posted this a while back on another forum, 5D costs. Get all in for around $400 if you wait for a sale. 5D pro Jig $200 Tool Kit $55 (3 drill bits and the ready mill) 308 upgrade $60 Dewalt router $120 $435 including the 308 and the recommended router. Since then I bought a second ready mill and an additional replacement bit. The drill bits they supply are good quality, last 3-4 lowers before starting to dull. The anodizing is really hard on them, if you did raw I'm sure they would last for a long time. Cobalt bits are what I am using now. The end mill in the ready mill is heat installed so bought a complete second ready mill in case I chip a tooth or otherwise damage the bit in the middle of a job I don't have to get out the torch.

Part of the learning curve. My router has soft start, and I'm running both that and the vacuum off a foot switch. Still, got to hang on each and every time! No excuse.

@RedRiverIIGet on 5D's mailing list, they seem to have 10% off sales regularly.

Correct. Not keen on the phillips but I guess if I really hated them I would swap them out. They are durable enough to use the impact driver on them though. One thing about the 5D, first job came out perfect, one pass. Second one near perfect, little keyholing on the trigger hole (You can see it on the second photo above) wasn't hanging on tight enough when I hit the switch. Chipped a tooth on the mill bit 1/2 way through the 3rd job, wasn't hanging on tight enough a little over confident or something and it jumped a little. Ordered a replacement bit and a complete bit+ holder (What 5D calls the Easymill) for a quick change spare last time they had a sale. Every hole lined up perfectly and every FCG fit and functioned first time installed. Really good directions with the jig. Every lower went right into a carbine or pistol and never an issue.

Anderson ain't bad for the price for a mil spec FCG lately tried the LaRue 2 stage recommended around here and the Rise Armament single stage drop in also recommended on the trigger thread, both great FCGs for under $100.00 Either one hundred times better then mill spec.

@PaddyMac One other thing, looks like your hammer spring possibly is between the trigger shaft and the receiver housing, shoving the trigger to the right. Should be on top of the trigger shaft in the cut away and in the grove of the trigger pin. Blurry, could be wrong. I'll be quiet now...

Done half a dozen or so lowers with the 5D, .40 to 308, all shooters. There are a few tricks to learn but I would recommend. If you decide get one give a shout before starting, I could save you some "Oh $hit" moments. Photo is kind of blurry down in the pocket, but something doesn't look quite right, like your step "1" or "A" isn't deep enough or not in the right place. Should be flush with the bottom of the takedown pin pocket. Also, hard to tell but step "2" or "B" doesn't look far enough to the rear. Another thing the section between the FCG and the takedown pocket looks too narrow.

@aadavis94 Did you get the ejector out? If not, probably best option would be to send the complete BCG back to AP, they are a pretty good bunch, if they couldn't fix it they would probably just replace the bolt for little or no charge.

Tried the Rise on one of the AR's today, very nice trigger. Width is tight fit in a Aero Precision GII lower and the pins were a little long. AP GII AR15 lowers must be a little on the skinny side.

Is a Sprinco red heavier then an EA1095? have one left over from the AR40 tuning sessions. I also have a Tubbs flat wire spring, AKA "the biggest PITA to install/ uninstall" spring. Maybe just call it a win and move on to load development.

Opened that baby up to .087, put the Armalite recoil parts back on, too much gas. Cranked the Seekins AGB down to about 2.5 turns, shooting sweet. 4 different factory loads in the 120-150gr range, all good ran out about 60 rounds 100% reliable. Tuning question for someone smarter then me: Ejection pattern 1:00 Cranked in gas block a little more, bit by bit all the way to no LRBHO and brass falling right out onto the shooting bench but could never get past 1:00. Went the other way until signs of too much bolt speed ditto. Maybe go to a 6.8oz buffer and a little more gas? Dual ejector? Or no big deal...

@aadavis94 Friend was shooting a new 6.5 CM build, exhibiting similar problems. Armalite buffer system, Toolcraft bolt. Seekins adjustable gas block. Even with the heavy buffer system, we still had to back the gas block down about 50% before 100% reliable. (port hole .087, midlength gas)

Bummer about the stuck ejector, either bent it or embedded something foreign in there. I would first put some oil in the hole and then try to push the ejector in against the spring see if you can get it to move in and out. Hopefully it will go shooting across the shop and land near the last one. Hopefully you have a spare. What are you using to compress it and hold in place while you pin it? Bolt really needs to be held secure during this operation. There is a thread on this forum somewhere that has all the roll pin sizes, or order one. I use Damage Industries for little parts like that. http://damageindustriesllc.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=335&search=ejector+pin My preferred install method is tape the pin to a nail set, VERY light bevel grind on the leading edge and it starts straight and installs easily. Same technique with the gas block pin. Good luck, we'll get this thing shooting if it kills us!

Interesting point. On the other hand, you are not fitting the upper to the lower with the jig. As far as just milling the FCG pocket is concerned, seems there is quite a bit of tolerance. Haven't had any issues.

That is correct, but so far i haven't had an issue with the several I have done. All have aligned perfectly with the uppers takedown holes. Didn't even know mis-alignment was a thing. One AR40, one AR308, one AR308/6.5CM and several small frame jobs.

I also like the side guide bushing setup of the 5D rather then the center guide. I think I've caught on to why your FCG pocket doesn't connect with your rear takedown pocket, you skip the first guide and just start with the "B" Bushing? That would work the same with the 5D if I started with the #2 guide bushings instead of the #1's. Good luck with the rest of the build, sounds like you can figure it out. Keep posting!

The 5D jig holds the rear of the forging very securely from the extension tube threads only so no pin in the way. Only touches the receiver there and the front takedown pin. Other then that the jigs look similar.

AMT twice and Delta Team Tactical once, look identical function fine for 308's and 6.5's. DPMS low rail clones I think. Maybe got lucky on the DTT, some reports about them never know what you might get. Never had a problem with AMT uppers and AMT 80% 308 lowers Anderson and Aero Precision for the small frame uppers, Anderson forged 80% lowers New Frontier smooth side upper over a 5D 80% lower for the .40 pistol, needed their style with the LRBHO activator in the upper. (Spikes style have the LRBHO device in the lower, have 2 of them) Have a raw AMT upper and a raw Noreen forged 80% lower for the next 308 build, and bunch of Anderson forged 80% lowers laying around from the last sale. I may have a problem....

Forged for me, but in 308's except for Noreen I haven't seen a true forged. "Forged" Billet, but not "Forged" Several different brands of billet 308 80's have that exact same wave cut over the safety and under the takedown with the big shelf on top, assume they are all coming from the same place. Built 2 on that style so far, same as yours, both zero issues.

Almost all the 80 lowers come that way now. I would say ALL but maybe one or two out there don't, haven't seen one though. I understand it was common a while back.