Lane

Hard to see in these images (use your imagination; the fins are in the tail); but a fin stabilized projectile could work well in a smooth barrel, and spin. I've had my eye on this since I put this project away the last time. A laser could easily make these directly; without the hassle of casting from 3d printed objects. Though; casting from 3d prints is fine just the same. Nothing to lose either way. I watched the video again for myself. And this is the thing that stuck out the most in terms of things that need to be "fixed".

Sad to knock up my thread that had 69 replies; but... There's a new demolition ranch video. I really should dig out the build that I've had stashed away for a while. Everything is here to finish it; but I haven't started playing Tetris with the parts yet. Interesting that they call out the bull-pup design a bit after 5:30 in the video. My build started out as a slight one-up of the GR1 specs. Nice to see that in action here. But I also never planned to fire 50 cal projectiles (or full auto)... The new ArcFlash Labs offering is only 22 Cal. The EMG-01B which run $1,350 - https://arcflashlabs.com/product/emg-01b/ I'll be back sometime soon with a real update. But I welcome any thoughts that come from watching this Demolition Ranch video; or whatever else comes to mind. I could use a little kick to get this going again... Lots of new tech in the shop here; which will come to light as I get moving again. Mostly; metal cutting with a laser, but a bunch of new test equipment too; which I hope helps keep me on the safer side of this project.

If you are willing to pay; Natchez has CCI BR2 Large Rifle primers in stock right now. Brownell's only has CCI small rifle magnum primers in stock. They come and go fairly quickly, and are limited in how many you can buy at once. https://www.natchezss.com/cci-standard-primers-br2-large-rifle.html I do see them in retail stores nearby from time to time as well. Usually broken down and sold in 100 counts lately. I found some 209 primers locally and paid $10 a sleeve for those.

I have a 5 round ASC magazine which has worked well for me. But I don't personally own a Gen3 PA-10. Primary Arms has those in stock: https://www.primaryarms.com/asc-308-magazine-5-round Another option is to use a 10 round Magpul PMAG, and get a limiter. More expensive option overall; but if you like PMAGs already, maybe that's better for you? I assume this is for hunting? https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/magpul-308-minus-5-round-limiter

A bit long winded; and the video is out of sync with the audio. But good information about the legal fight that has been going on. It is not over yet...

I see the AmmoLand tag on the posted photo now. There are some basic blueprints posted around here. But even those that have been published, are all different. Some in small ways; and others in ways that could cause incompatibilities. Might help to see vaguely what you actually have in this case...

Are you sured that's a curved back, and not a slant (was it designed to be DPMS specifically)? I have not seen anyone post here about attempting to finish a forging. This should be interesting. You may have options. Certainly curious how your mag well turns out when you get to that point.

Different shapes.

Thanks for the update. Being a NY resident; I can't even talk about suppressed. What's the twist? You are hitting them point first?

Have to admit being curious about... A subsonic 300 Blackout load; into what barrel? How purpose built is this gun for 300 Blackout to 1,000 yards?

If you're going to leave a mark; I'm not sure that's the one I'd want. Still have to get the old pin out even if the bolt catch is off. In terms of leaving a mark. I bought a blemished polymer80 that had a defect that was visible in the finished product. I found JB Weld plastic bonder filled the void neatly, and I was even able to dye it the correct color when I was finished. I can't even find the seam after the fact. So assuming you don't do structural damage, you can alway fill in small imperfections.

I'd hope not to ruin an entire lower over such a small problem. First thing I would try is a lot of oil and see if you can work in the bolt catch, and make it move more freely. My polymer 80s have been a little tight (though I've not tried a 308 polymer 80; that scares me a bit). Assuming that does not work. My next move would be to drill out the front side, so it's no longer a blind pin hole. Punch the pin all the way through and out the other side (the freshly drilled hole). It's likely that the threaded type pin will still work afterwards assuming the threads didn't get mangled in the process. Obviously might be good to take a file to the inside of the channel for the bolt catch, and make sure it moves freely before installing the new pin. But yeah; you could also try to destroy just the bolt catch. That seem a bit more difficult; but maybe I'm not thinking of something that would make it easy. It's certainly a better option than buying another lower.

I have used QuickLOAD software on and off; but it was missing some powder choices for me early on. I never took it too seriously; but did model loads with odd powders when I was curious. It did offer me some useful insight when trying to make blanks for the can cannon. I found an alternative that appears to be reasonably well supported; and it's actually free. It has both Windows and Linux downloads available on the website; and I've even tested it to be fully functional (so far) running the Windows version on a Mac with WINE (which is also free). Gordon's Reloading Tool; or GRT. https://www.grtools.de I've seen quite a few positive anecdotes about GRT in other forums. I have personally yet to explore more than the basic features. But will absolutely be working up a few loads and comparing notes with the LabRadar and GRT software (and QuickLOAD where applicable). I'll post back when I have a better review/comparison myself; but figured I would throw it out here to see if anyone else has experience or opinions. Anyone that might have been on the fence about the $150 cost of QuickLOAD might care.

Food for thought. I'm not even close to being first with this kind of work.... https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/homemade-induction-annealer.6966638/page-4 And that's page 4... I have quite a bit more reading to do myself to get back up to speed. But can reproduce almost all of that so far; and more soon. Frenchcreekvalley knows his stuff. Found him on some EE forums a while back; around the time he was doing this kind of testing.

Hey; I like book lernin. But I too was chomping at the bit for this outcome. Don't want to share even the least bit of experience of feedback? Can't answer basic questions? Who cares... Probably that person sitting next to me in school that needed to cheat on every exam. Fuuuoook off.

https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B0851C6Q22/ This is only $180. But apparently comes with no case, and a lot less coils. Shouldn't I have one so I can compare and contrast induction drivers? I think so.

I am in exactly the same boat. For a while I had ignored annealing because I could get more brass without question. That ship has sailed though; at least in the short term. And if there's a really easy way to get this done; I'm game. Without too many boring details out of the gate; I'd like to apply a technique I use in another induction system. The multi-layer coil. It should focus the heat better; and apply more power to a small area. Even a pancake coil isn't out of the question. It's also possible to add I.D. to the top of the coil, which will still act as a turn, but apply less energy to the neck while still focusing on the shoulder. So there's a number of ways to riff off this design based on the results. Still on the fence about picking up the bolt warmer today; but that might change in the next few hours. I've already wound a few coils that should work with the induction driver board that's on my desk right now. Have a few more laying around; and all of those should work for case annealing as well. Even without water cooling; they should be plug compatible with the bolt warmer. At some point I'll probably solder wires so I can connect them electrically and with water cooling in both systems easily. Tried salt filling one of the 1/8" tubing coils; and it seemed like more trouble than it was worth. Not sure if it will help much, if at all with water flow rate. I didn't kink any of my cold bent coils yet. One thing I still need is some of that fiberglass sheathing. It would make coil winding a lot easier (so they don't touch electrically); and it helps with insulation when operating as well. Ordered 25' of tubing, so a roll of the fiberglass will be on the way sometime soon. I use Kaowool insulation in the other system; so I don't need the sheathe there. Images: Salt filling with a paper funnel. And one salt filled, and two cold bent 1/8" copper tubing dual layer coils. With a bit more practice and all that, this should be a shoe in. And likely even faster than what's shown in the video. Adding a second layer will reduce heating time significantly.

I am here to eat my own words in this topic. Stumbled across a video the other day. I'm not sure I will be sticking with propane after all... That's just me; but you can judge for yourself. While I'm not going that route exactly; it inspired me to pick up some 1/8" copper tubing (so it can be water cooled). Watching him use the handheld unit without even a water bath was promising enough. And; living in the cold northeast; a bolt warmer is a good buy for other reasons (rusty bolts on all types of motor vehicles). I don't want to say too much about my own build here. But the video is worth a watch no matter what.

Welcome from NY. Someone will be by shortly to give you some more advice here... This isn't something I've ever seen before. So I can only say; "glad to see you made it here to the 308ar.com forum"... This looks pretty interesting. While the weights appear to be kind of expensive; I'm actually curious about that JP VMOS BCG in some ways. All the best Sir!

High voltage probe showed up. I measured a whole bunch of stuff I had laying around that I wasn't fully up to speed with yet. One of the lithium powered electric flyswatters tops out at 4,700V on a full charge; it sags as the battery voltage drops down to around 3,500V before it cuts off the power. The other one like it only peaks at 4,000V (ordered a 2-pack) which might be due to a manufacturing defect (I have already opened it up and found a pinched battery cable; a wire resistor). Those are working just fine for charging capacitor banks to a reasonably high voltage for testing. Might need another pair; but that's really cheap at this point. And they kill bugs. No reason not to get a few more. The ignition modules in particular are going to need a bit more effort in that department. Those devices seem to start above 25kV. They "sing" and quickly start dropping in output voltage due to the resistance of the HV probe and probably wiring too; settling around 15kV. Still have another half dozen of them to test; and ideally try to get some handle on what the peak output voltage really is.... This is a big part of why I needed an HV probe; I knew the voltage was up there... I assume they can also be wired in series or parallel; but I haven't messed with that at all. Reality is they start WAY above even 40kV.... The only reason I see that low number is because of the resistance in the probe (and wires). I still need to get back into the math to design a few second stage coils. Since I already purchased a bunch of silicon switches (SCRs) to dump capacitors. I might as well work out those details. Early on I bought a bunch of 10mm gapped IR triggers to work with sight holes, or acrylic barrel sections. If I don't blow anything up in the process, I could have a seven stage secondary that can run independent of the arc triggered initial acceleration. While I'm thinking about it; I might as well dig into a CAD drawing of the major elements. I've already drawn some of the difficult components. So it's just a matter of fleshing out the new details. Coil size is relatively static at this point; and none of them will change much in length or thickness. Prototyping is hard. I got lost in the CAD drawing for a bit; and I'm still not back on track. Happens. Really should be using another 3D application once I make these parts.

That's quite a rundown... Someone has been reading about the possibilities. I have a few induction furnaces, and I've tested that method briefly for annealing. I'm personally in the propane torch camp though. It's easy to see; out in the open, and is much less complicated than the rest in my personal opinion. I haven't built one yet; but I've been eyeballing the basic two motor design for quite some time. The one that has a slow motor up top to grab a case from the stack, and then the "cake pan" to roll it before dropping in water. Setting up a torch and aiming it is really easy to do. Sure; you might be able to get more done per hour with an induction annealer. But that hardly matters; the whole point is having an automated system in the first place. One might consider shopping around for torch heads if propane is the go-to (one that can maintain a flame size over time). Either way. Even running batches of a 100 should be possible in even the worst of setups. What prototyping brings to the table is, an easy to way to figure out what DOES NOT work. Prototyping is rarely about anything else. Fine tuning can happen only once the design is solidified based on those previous bad experiences. You need some pretty small motors in general for the coffee can or bake pan setup. Taking apart kids toys is often a fine source for such things. This might also apply soon; when college schedules break for a semester; there are often many inkjet printers left on the curb for trash as students move out. Those are a great source for just the right kind of motors. One would be wise to grab an arduino and/or motor drivers from amazon or eBay or whatever too. But that's all it really takes. A sturdy cardboard box and a few fabricated parts are all that's left to worry about.

I've decided to dive in to that project for a bit. I really have no idea how it is going to work out; there are a lot of problems with trying to work with a molten metal at that temperature. It is not even entirely related to this project. But since I'm already trying; it might be a candidate for a test electrode moving forward. More power supply modules, and a large battery showed up. I just need to start wiring up terminal blocks so I can mess with this in open form experimentally. One thing I had almost forgotten about here was a high voltage probe for a multimeter; probably oscilloscope too... I just ordered one the other night; so that should be here soon. With a 40kV max limit, I should be able to check the things that matter. These days I'm most worried about heat of the wires during discharge. Generally though; that does allow for higher electrical current flow, to a point... So it might be a blessing in disguise if I don't break any rules (i.e. start a wire fire).

Why is this place so quiet lately? I hate to post progress when the news cycle is so slow... Maybe I should post more though. Hard to find primers and all that. Had to clear this off my desk for a while. But just finished ordering all the rest of the parts give or take a few screws and whatnot. Needed a battery to supply huge currents. Check. More HV power supplies; Check two. Someone just ordered up a ring made of Element 75 (on the Periodic Table) the other day. No idea if I can make that happen. I will try though. Once the packages arrive; it's game on again. Just programing up the lab radar, again (that's so annoying; someone should fix that firmware.... Please?).

Brownells has more CCI primers in stock right now; many different varieties.

Aaaaaaaaaaannnnd they're gone. That was about the longest I've ever see/heard of primers being available in a long time. Usually they sell out in a few minutes to hours. I checked Brownells either last night or this morning and they still had some CCI 41s. Now they are totally sold out of all primers (again). Even saw large rifle primers in stock when I was shopping around; and then they were sold out before I finalized my order.