Madhouse

Ok my 1911 guru guides, I have a question. Do you see any need in chamfering the holes on the inside of the frame for the legs of the safety plunger? I have the tool to expand those hollow legs, but I had seen where some guys took a round bit on a dremel and cupped those openings a bit on the inside. Is this necessary? And a comment back on the hammer and hammer strut assembly - the roll pin was the pin (in this particular kit) for that purpose. There was no other pin for it.

At some point I will need to figure out a coating color for the frame, or maybe for the whole unit.

LOL, and that ugly paint on the grips, I have no idea what that's about, that's how they came. The other side is worse, it has 108 written on it in paint.

I haven't shot it yet, but I did the pencil test and the firing pin is working! :banana: I bought the frame for $175 and the complete parts kit for $300, so $475 total in this gun (aside from the specialized tools I had to buy, but I'll be using those again). I'm going to completely tear it down again, I still want to work the trigger action a little, I think I can improve it. Then it's to the range. <thumbsup>

Right on. I didn't see any heyholing in your target, just some grouping.

What ammo? I wouldn't expect keyholing.

Have you checked with other owners? It could just be that's where the ejector puts them?

Congrats bro, that is a badass pistol.

Yeah, I'm gonna get with this same seller and get several more of these frames now. That one only ran $175, and I bet he'd give me a discount on multiples. AR builds just got too boring lately. I still have several to do, but I see 1911 work in my foreseeable future.

Thanks, but I'll pass.

And their cover of bad company is baller.

I've been listening to those guys since their first album! I'm a fan for sure.

Thanks Tom! I gotta say, I am bragging it to every gun guy I know. My first range trip with it is going to be a proud moment!

I have the wilson combat jig.

I forgot to mention, I have a jig to grind down the tangs on the back of the frame to accomodate a beavertail safety, so I will be doing that later on too.

This was a complete parts kit minus the frame. I actually don't know whose it is. It came bagged in plastic with literally zero documentation. I don't really care much about it, that's why it didn't bother me to tear that grip safety up with the dremel. I see myself building much better equipment in the future, this was the practice piece. I'm missing one plunger from the safety plunger tube assembly, that's why it's not put together and installed. I just ordered it and a staking tool from MidwayUSA. I'm quite happy with this, it was a lot of fun to learn and work on it. I'm going to strip it completely back down and work on tuning some of the parts. I still think I can get the trigger to be smoother. Again guys, thanks for all of the help with this!!

She ain't pretty, but she seems to move well.

Not the best looking grip safety I've seen....

I don't want to jinx myself, but I think I just built a fully functional 1911. Holy shit.

Screw it. The dremel is coming out to play.

Forgive me for talking to myself. So, with the grip safety off the weapon seems fully functional. Before I ruin this grip safety, is it OK to grind it down?

Oh, duh! I just need to take about an eighth of an inch off the top of the grip safety where it contacts the hammer. ..

Disregard that. It's the hammer stopping the slide from going any further. Seems this hammer is too fat in both directions.

I'm racking one of my other 1911's while I'm working, and while the disconnector does protrude, it doesn't stop the slide from moving.

It's the disconnector that is hanging up the slide. ...