Madhouse

Jeebus, 2009?!? Where are the years going?!?

Thanks again fellers. I ran another couple hundred rounds through it this past Saturday, it's running awesome now. Sights suck ass. Trigger is among the best I have fingered.

I gotta wait until I finish the book first. I always like to read it before I see the hollyweird representation.

Thanks guys. I ran a hundred rounds through it here at the local range in Wentzville, MO, smooth as can be. I'll put a bunch more through it when I get back to Texas this weekend.

Love Texas, but not real fond of Houston. But, it's a living. My family in the southern half of Maine tell me there's no snow. Unreal!

Hey buddy, I've been in Texas for 20 years but I'm a born Maine-iac! Born and raised in Aroostook County. Welcome to 308AR!

Complete. I swapped out the grip safety, and ended up using burnt bronze for the cerakote.

Lol, cool video. Merry Christmas you bunch of degenerates.

Agendas like these are why I hold the opinion that about 90% of media are functional idiots

:sniper:

Story of my life, nothin'!

I'm thinking frame only in Cerakote's Texas Tan, leave all the rest black.

I have had Kimbers from when I first got into guns, and always been a fan.

It doesn't seem to affect functionality. Can you think of any adverse side effects from having a hammer strut that doesn't wiggle free on the hammer? It moves pretty well, but doesn't dangle loose.

Hell yeah!

Well hot damn. I took it to the range on Saturday, ran 26 rounds through it, zero malfunctions. It actually shot pretty well, everything was just left of center. I did have a couple of FTF, but only with a KimPro mag. The GI mag that came in the parts kit worked just fine. So, I'm pretty damned pleased, and I've already contacted my guy about a few more stripped frames. :banana:

Today, an American Spirit Arms 95% lower came in. :))

Like the Sig 1911R Scorpion that's all FDE? Or would you do the frame in DFDE and leave the parts all blued?

I'll let you know how I proceed. Thanks for the input, again. Btw, I just talked to the guy I got all this gear from, he says he's getting more frames in this week. Woot.

Ok my 1911 guru guides, I have a question. Do you see any need in chamfering the holes on the inside of the frame for the legs of the safety plunger? I have the tool to expand those hollow legs, but I had seen where some guys took a round bit on a dremel and cupped those openings a bit on the inside. Is this necessary? And a comment back on the hammer and hammer strut assembly - the roll pin was the pin (in this particular kit) for that purpose. There was no other pin for it.

At some point I will need to figure out a coating color for the frame, or maybe for the whole unit.

LOL, and that ugly paint on the grips, I have no idea what that's about, that's how they came. The other side is worse, it has 108 written on it in paint.

I haven't shot it yet, but I did the pencil test and the firing pin is working! :banana: I bought the frame for $175 and the complete parts kit for $300, so $475 total in this gun (aside from the specialized tools I had to buy, but I'll be using those again). I'm going to completely tear it down again, I still want to work the trigger action a little, I think I can improve it. Then it's to the range. <thumbsup>

Right on. I didn't see any heyholing in your target, just some grouping.

What ammo? I wouldn't expect keyholing.