Robocop1051

Lol, I used that same rational when my buddy went to his first cathouse. He brought me back a t-shirt <thumbsup>

<thumbsup> That's awesome, thanks Mike!

1:14? Really? That seems really loose for a 155gr. I imagine that would be awesome for those +3000fps 125gr-135gr, coyote rifles. I wouldn't be shy about shooting a 155gr from a 1:10. I know the sniper team for the SWAT guys shoot 155gr-168gr from 1:12 Rem 700's.

Plus, FNH can't put "our rifle killed OBL" on their résumé. <thumbsup>

My thoughts exactly! The CM901 changes cals from 5.56x45 to 7.62x51, and everything in between, with a simple upper swap. Additionally, all the uppers use standard AR-15 compatible mags and DPMS LR-308 compatible mags. Colt is a game changer. I don't doubt for a second that they'll swoop the next Army contract for the small arms infantry rifle.

Scar-H :puke: plastic guns are for kids Give me a Colt CM901!!!

As far as "tilt" is concerned... I use an Adams Arms piston in my 5.56. I put in the carrier weight and an H2 buffer with the standard carbine buffer spring. That slowed the BCG down enough to prevent any noticeable wear. Just my $0.02

Are you hand loading? If so, just load light. Keep your velocity under 2600 fps and you should be fine. A 168gr bullet in a 18" barrel should be traveling 2400-2450 fps. You can expect to lose supersonic speed just after 800 meters. The 155 and 147 are going to decelerate faster, as wind resistance will affect them more. As for accuracy. The 1:10 is the tightest commercially available twist you can get. Tighter the twist = more spin. You usually run into accuracy problems when you bullet gets heavier and you twist opens up. Shooting a 180 or 200 grain bullet in a 1:12 would be silly. My custom barrel is 17" with a 1:10 twist. I only shoot 168gr (freebie department issued stuff).

An 18", with 1:10 twist, shooting 168gr bullets, should remain supersonic to 600 yards. You don't want to go much lighter than the 168gr with that tight twist. The accuracy will be fine. The problem is that the higher velocity bullets will cause more pressure/friction/heat, thus reducing the life of your barrel faster. You can shoot lighter bullets safely, just allow your barrel ample cooling between shots.

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I have that same work bench in my man cave!

I'm scared of the cost to load it.

<thumbsup>

I did not understand that post

FYI, the Magpul Gen2 MBUS front sight uses a standard military post. You can swap/upgrade it with something more hi-viz. I swapped my last one with a Trijicon tritium post.

@Jgun, I assume you're referring to the A2 front sight block. Those are the simplest installs, as all the parts needed are already available. Any gas block should suffice. As long as you get a front handguard cup to line everything straight. Magpul MOE handguards accept round, triangle or M203-notched handguard caps. Realize that the MOE handguards aren't designed to accept a top rail. If you don't use a gas block with a fixed/flip sight, then you should look into a picatinny front sight. If you use a low-pro, or similar, you'll be confined to optics only. I have seen rifles with MOE handguards and specter gas blocks, with only a red dot mounted on top.

Believe it or not, that is my professional grade Airsoft rifle. It is a VERY customized "KWA SR-10". It shoots 25 bb's per second at 400 fps, with a maximum distance of about 200'.

Just to help the OP. Magpul only makes MOE handguards for the AR15 rifles. If you want to put one on your .308 you will have to make slight modifications to the metal heat shield inside. Magpul makes all three standard lengths in MOE handguards; Carbine, Mid and Rifle.

I can't wait to see your finished product.

I love Airsoft guns. Fun, safe and cheap to shoot <thumbsup> I have over $1k invested in this one.

It's looking a little... Airsoft. What does it shoot? What's up with the can? Is it cosmetic, or functional?

<thumbsup> <thumbsup>

I was actually looking at doing this with some old mil issued mags I have in the garage.

OK, So the 300blk is still a work in progress. The barrel I ordered in March still hasn't arrived (Wilson Combat 14.7" 1:8). I'm hoping that this is rectified SOON. The 7.62x39 is a simple process. The lower remains the same (although I'm upgrading the furniture on mine). The upper receiver is a standard upper. I purchased the one with the cheapo writing on the side "7.62x39mm YHM" just to minimize confusion down the road. The only parts that need to be swapped are the bolt and the barrel. Everything else is standard. I chose a 16" barrel with carbine gas. This is because the 7.62x39 surplus stuff is already an under-gassed bullet. The guys with 16" mid length barrels are having cycling issues when shooting the cheap brown case surplus commie rounds. The most important part I added was a stainless steel extractor to last longer on the steel cased commie rounds. I also grabbed a longer firing pin to get a better strike on those thicker (and sometimes recessed) military primers. There are places, like AR15 Performance, that make a special bolt (and I think barrel extension) for the 7.62x39. He swears his is better quality. I also think the guy is full of a lot of hot air, and would autofelate every chance he gets to show how cool he is. If I'm getting too much gas/kick, I'll get a heavy buffer or CWS to counter the impact and slow things down a bit. As for magazines, since the 7.62x39 is a tapered casing, I have to use proprietary mags. This is the original reason why I started building the 300 blk instead. The 7.62x39 mags are more "banana" shaped and hold 30 rounds. They are very similar to the old 45 round 5.56 mags.

Just a little sneak peek at the pre-assembly parts So close I can smell it.