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Why?

Let us know when those RRA triggers go soft on you, and lost that first stage...

I'm just gonna start right off with this, here. The magical "DPMS AR-10" is a unicorn. It doesn't exist. It's either DPMS LR-308 pattern, OR it's Armalite AR-10 pattern. But those two patterns don't cross paths. Just tossing that out there right now, because nomenclature matters, when you're asking us to diagnose a .308AR gun-problem over the internet. Details really do matter.

I'll try to get more pictures this time. I swear.

Here I am again, out-kicking my coverage, and talking about something that hasn't happened yet... Me, @JBMatt, DirtBike Tommy, and @BigNate are all signed up and in Sqd 4 for the next shoot, this Saturday, 25 Sep. Doesn't matter how we do, when it's all said and done, because we'll finish at Wild Horse West for Bloody Mary's and a burger, and pick on each other for how bad we sucked in the match... The story will continue, the results will be fun - and no matter what, it's a hoot every single time. https://www.wildhorsewest.com/

Biden's original "gun czar" was gonna be Beto O'Rourke. You saw where the entire Biden Administration left that chump - on the curb. SlowJow is a lot of talk. He hasn't accomplished a single thing in his "reign" so far, besides damage.

They just dropped a new scope today, too - has my interest. A 1~8 FFP scope with the Griffin X Mil reticle. I'll be watching that one.

Bed that barrel extension with some Loc-Tite 609, in that instance right there ^^^, and your accuracy will improve. For real.

Good news on the running gun - than you for coming back in here and putting up the details.

We went out today - first time is hasn't been over 100* in a long time.

Makes sense now - you don't want those threads exposed in the middle? This device looks like it functions as a comp, but primarily changes the length of your barrel, in order to tune the load.

Exactly - Haul ASS so you limit your exposure!...

I resemble that remark. That doesn't mean that I accept it, though...

That's epic news, man, and I'm happy that it went together - not much force, putting those two together after that process? When I have to do bearings in a motorcycle engine case, or a separate transmission, and I'm dealing with the removal of all those press-fit bearings - I bake the cases at 300* for an hour. I pull them out of the oven, and SLAM that case half down on the workbench... and all the bearing fall out, onto the bench. The new bearings were already frozen - like yesterday - and I drop them right into that hot engine case, right then. Biggity-BAM! Done deal, let it cool, and move on to engine assembly. I'm VERY glad that work for you, and VERY glad that you provided numbers beforehand. Maybe now, some of these other fuckers will start listening to me, and stop thinking I'm craaaaazy...

In order to fully understand what you're talking about here, pics will probably be mandatory, to tell the story you're telling. The words-on-screen isn't getting it done.

That's when we need to up the minimum post count - to see it - from 5 posts, to THIRTY-FIVE posts... It's the newb fuckin' Riff-Raff with 5 whole posts that get in there and try to wreck daddy's car...

Vern Troyer RULED!!! Don't ever take his name in vain...

I fukkin' HOPE SO. We need to keep you around, here. We need you. There's NOBODY else that can keep @Lonewolf McQuade in check...

How tall are you? Are you like a 6'9" Yeti or something? If not, and you're a normal human, with a normal length-of-pull, you might want to move that scope forward, for proper eye relief. On ARs (big or small), and normal-sized humans, you usually want that scope eyepiece just about at the end of the charging handle or upper receiver. That thing is back about a full inch from that - and that WILL affect you, in shooting-for-realz. It won't affect you at all, in hypothetical-land, though. You have the mount too far back, and you've got the scope all the way forward in the mount. Move that mount forward, and reset everything. You need to level the scope, anyway. It'll treat you better in the long run.

^^^ This right here. You crimp EVERYTHING that goes through a mag-fed gas gun, no exceptions. I've seen bullet set-back first hand, and it's not pretty. These ain't bolt guns, and all that fancy bolt-gun "neck tension bushing" shiit for setting neck tension - belongs in bolt guns. Only. Not in gas guns. Yes, I crimp my 6 ARC handloads with a Lee Factory Crimp Die. From the very beginning.

I will tell you that Erik Cortina's tuning brake works. If what you're looking at is similar, it should work like his does. He gives the details and the feedback, and SHOWS you his works, and why.

It was a thing back in Ohio, when I was a kid. So it's been around THAT long. We're talking kid = 70s into early 80s, for "kid."

That's a BRAVE DUDE, right there. I would NOT risk that, and I like challenges.

Do you handload your own ammo? That's gonna affect your accuracy, because off-the-shelf ammo is all hunting loads, and have "hunting accuracy." Hits into a 7" or 9" vital zone is what the ammo manufacturers are going for with that stuff. It's not bad - and it's good for breaking the gun in, when the time comes. My best loads so far have been with Hornady 225gr SST projectiles. They definitely don't suck.

For a .338 Fed AR, the longer 18" or 20" barrel isn't going to do anything for you that's beneficial. Well, besides add swing weight to the gun. For hunting, and 250 yards, the 16" is overkill, in a way. Best scenario, even for another 100 yards on top of that, without building a shorter barrel and ending up going the SBR-route. The 16" is the way to go. Here's my mantra on barrel length... If you have an accurate gun, it's always going to be an accurate gun. If it's an accurate 20" gun, and you want to cut the barrel down, it's still going to be accurate. Barrel length only affects velocity, not accuracy. And, a shiitty barrel is always gonna be a shiitty barrel, no way around that. The WC barrel that you're looking at IS an accurate barrel, and it's one of their match barrels - it has all their tricks, including final hand-lapping. That's why I think it's worth waiting for it. Post up your list of parts when you have time, and we'll look them over and see what's listed. If something isn't going to work, or there's a better part out there, we'll see it in the list. Short-cut the long-term diagnosis that way.