98Z5V

On a .308AR, .308 Win handload, I've put more moving mass into the BCG, and it's proven to be less sight disruption. It's already a heavy gun, so I added where I could. Follow-up shots were easy after that. On a 5.56 gun, I've added 3.5lbs to the buttstock, a good brake, and it's completely changed the recoil impulse. As far as today goes. I haven't tested it off the Sex Swing yet, but I'll probably do that next Sunday morning, just to see for myself, with as-rapid-fire-shots as I can make them, on the 450 target. My main opinion on this all is- lightweight is not where it's at, for what you're describing as a goal. You don't want an 80lb gun... Might as well ruck a M2 and tripod... But lightweight internal parts are not your answer. Unless = Race Gun = Only 1 tailored load for that Race Gun that works, and nothing else does.

Just did this last week. You're talking about this: First month out on this match series for me was 4 months ago. Shot the LaRue 6 ARC gun. Didn't have the magazine-feeding issues figured out yet - which were no big deal on the range, but were a big deal in a match... This was the first time out, REALLY testing it - this gun. We had to shoot out of stuff like this... After that first match, and the feeding issues with Grendel mags, and the 6 ARC projectile, I shelved that gun for competition, until I solved the mag-part of the equation. I had it figured out, before the next match, but my mind was made up. The next gun going to the next match was the Mk12 Mod 1, 5.56 gun, 75gr Hornady handloads with a BDC scope. And that's what I've been shooting since. Gun performed flawlessly, until last month, when we had to shoot from THIS THING! That thing fucked us up so bad, that we had our OWN version built by the next Saturday. I got that thing swinging so bad in the match, firing when the swing was coming back, that it was like a kid on a swingset... Until I accidentally fired whilst going forward - and it STOPPED, COMPLETELY. Right then, we decided to build our own, to practice from. And it works, GREAT. So, I never realize - until that vid, and that match, how bad an A2 FH is for recoil. Until I was suspended, swinging, shooting. I changed the muzzle device out for the VG6 2-port brake and a the CAGE device. Works on all the Grendels, Valk, and ARC well. As well as the Mk11. Took it out last weekend, and it made a change in the zero. No issue, re-zero'd the scope, shot 1 mil low, 1 mil right. Fixed it. THIS week, the 3.5lb buttstock weight arrived, on Thursday. Slapped that thing in there, shot this morning. No re-zero. That fucked me. Today. ELIMINATED scope movement. ELIMINATED felt recoil. Completely. I knew my misses before spotters called them, and often made follow up shoots for those misses, and made hits - before the calls came out. However, it shifted my zero... On big targets at distance, no issue, I was on, or missed and sent another, sometimes before the calls were even made. On the tiny targets, it was off. And I missed those bastards. Today was a great success,and sucked at the same time - because I changed the gun, and didn't re-verify zero before going out there to zero it again. So, those buttstock weights - just like I was talking about adding 3.95oz to the back of the buffer - they make an accuracy difference. And the difference is in follow-up shots. Lightweight race gun parts, for a gun that you're designing - a combat gun. That's oil and water, right there. My $0.02 on that.

Armalite recoil springs, for Large Frame ARs. Eugene Stoner figured that out, and he's way smarter than me. The same spring runs both carbine and rifle receiver extensions, when the recoil system (buffer weight) is at the PROPER weight, for a Large Frame AR. Same spring for both, made my the same company, made to the same dimensions and standards everytime... Is a winner. It's not some foolish "aftermarket parts company" that doesn't even make a firearms, but they make parts - and they don't know the difference between a DPMS LR-308 recoil system, and the Armalite AR-10 recoil system... It's not PSA, that routinely send out AR15 Carbine springs in their PA-10 .308ARs... The aftermarket is the the primary reason you can't just "trust a spring." Many of those companies don't even make a gun - but they want in on the market. The Secondary reason is marketing information... TOO MANY conpanies just list everything as "AR-10". Yeah? Nowhere near AR-10 - stick their "AR-10" upper that they're advertising, on an Armalite AR-10B lower - it won't even pin. Because aftermarket parts companies, can't even advertise their parts correctly, and don't know the smallest difference between a DPMS LR-308 pattern and the Armalite AR-10 pattern. Trust those guys with making a proper spring, to control the recoil in a Large Frame AR? When most of them don't even make a gun in the first place? I don't. Not at all, and it's been proven here, time and time again, with fucked up recoil springs that don't even belong in an AR15, let alone in a Large Frame AR... So, if you (first) use a recoil system that has enough ass to control the mass (of the recoil impulse and power of the .308 WIn cartridge, over the AR15s 5.56x45) go to the company that invented the system in the first place. Armalite EA1095 springs work in rifle and carbine recoil systems (with the proper recoil system components on your gun), they make them the exact same way, everytime, from the same materials, to the same specs. They just don't fuk that up. But other companies do, routinely. They only other recoil spring on the market that mirrors the performance of the Armalite EA1095 spring is the Sprinco RED Spring. Sprinco doesn't do anything BUT performance springs, that's their job, and they're damn good at it. I have several of their parts, for other things. For .308ARs and other large frame calibers, the EA1095 is a no-brainer, though. If they were sold out everywhere, in the world, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Sprinco RED for a gun build. I'll just pay twice as much for it.

It'll be posted in a topic that is already pretty prominent. It's my "years-of-research" topic. The shoot sucked for me today, mainly, and overall. More shooters than we've ever had, I was "squad mom" again - which means keeping it running, spotters, timers, scoring. I ran scoring until it was time for me to shoot, and picked up scoring again after. Zero time for pics from this one. Just descriptions, words, and a story that I haven't written yet. I fukked up and did something to my gun, and didn't make sure the zero was on, afterwards. I'll describe that later, in the other thread. Out of 5 stages, I blew 2, didn't do great on 1, and cleaned 2 stages. One of the stages I blew this month, I cleaned with ease 2 months ago. Just wasn't working for me today. And, that's how it goes. It's not bench, nowhere near. It's more like PRS for gas guns. Hell, it IS a PRS match for gas guns. And ONLY gas guns. No bolt guns allowed. Max distance today was 655 yards, and that was one that I cleaned. Ridiculous, what I didn't make. Here's where the known-positive gas port information will end up, when I get it together:

It'll work. If it sucks, and doesn't work, I'll buy if from you for what you paid, plus shipping to me. No-Lose on your side.

The hole in your gas block is 0.125". You're not drilling the gas block. You're drilling the gas port in the barrel, itself. The hole in the barrel. You don't need to unbarrel the rifle to do this job. Not necessary. You don't need a drill press. You do need to get the gas block out of the way, so you can drill the gas port. That doesn't mean that you even need to take the gas tube out of the gas block - you don't. You're drilling a larger hole, from a smaller hole, that is already there - your "drill guide" is already there. You're only making a smaller hole, larger. If you're skeptical or nervous about your abilities to perform this, then stop worrying. Stick a 1/4" wooden dowel down the barrel, in case you think you'll hurt the rifling on the other side, once you break through. If that's the main concern, then you're applying too much pressure on the drill. If you do it right, that's not even necessary. Use a variable speed drill (hand drill), you go slow, you lube the drill bit, and you apply light pressure to the drill - don't press hard, don't push it... You just let the bit eat. That's what it does. Light pressure, slow-ish speed, and lube the bit. It'll be done before you know it. That 1/4" woden dowel is completely optional, and should not be necessary. If it freaks you out, though, put it in there before you drill. Drill press = not needed.

Yes, the SI piece will work. I have one on one of the large-frames, might be the LFA set, and if it's not that, it's on an Aero M5 set. Shouldn't matter, because the DPMS LR-308 and Armalite AR-10 patterns use the exact same ejection port door dimensions and parts. Except for what Jim is talking about, above ^^^

No. I've never posted a list like that, but that's a good idea. I know exactly where I'm going to post it, too. Won't be able to work on that until next week, with a shoot coming up on me fast this Saturday, but I'll make one.

I've fired the 240 ALOT. And 249s ALOT. Even M-60s, again, ALOT. The M2 and Mk19 are my favorites for crew-served, once you free-gun them, and get that T&E out of the way. Honestly, if you're not counting artillery or tanks, there's not much I haven't fired, all the way up to 106mm Recoilless Rifle. You can't even possible carry, or even pull a 106, so I'd take a 90 over that big thing any day of the week. M-79 thumpers included. I'm glad you answered that one - I set that question up speficically last night, for a reason. I'll share my view on that. Placeholder 6 I want to tell you guys a story, about reciprocating mass... The only reciprocating mass in your AR is the BCG weight and the buffer weight. Your BCG isn't really your "recoil system," but you need to take it into account when you're putting your recoil system together. Lightweight BCGs and all that crap belongs in race guns. I built this gun up from a new rail purchase, and a bunch of "stolen parts" from the first .308AR that I ever built. Mk11 Mod 0. Ish... I shot this gun two weekends in a row. Two Sunday's ago, I took it out for it's "break-in," even though the barrel is from 2010, and is well broken in. At 100 yards, re-zeroing the scope to this gun (stolen scope), at lower magnifications, it was fine. Felt like any other .308AR, as far as recoil goes. Scope didn't jump off target, etc... I immediately moved to the 475 yard target that I put out there, and cranked up the magnification. At that mag power, and distance - the scope was jumping off target with every single shot. I never saw any of my own hits... I had to wait for my spotter to yell "HIT!" or not, then (on hits) I'd hear the impact a moment later. Never got to see one of them... So... This original gun had a Tubb CWS in it (Carrier Weight System), with the tungsten insert. Why NOT just put it back in here, since I'd already stolen so much from that gun?... So, I did. The CWS body with the tungsten weight in it comes in at 112 grams = 3.95oz. I'm already running a 5.200" long .308AR rifle buffer that weighs 5.4oz. Full size (not lightened) Fulton Armory chromed BCG that weighs 535 grams (18.87oz). And I added 3.95oz directly into the back of the BCG, directly to the reciprocating weight of the entire recoil system... That's a Quarter Pounder... Is it exactly the same adding that weight to the BCG body, as it is to the buffer itself? It damn near is, because it's reciprocating weight that runs the gun. Wouldn't really matter if you added it directly to the BCG, or to the buffer weight. How did it affect the function of the gun? Took it back out there last Sunday. Stupendous difference at 475 yards. Scope never came off target once, and I watched every single hit that I made, and I saw the shots that I missed - and corrected my own misses for the follow-up shots - because I could SEE THEM now... 5.4oz buffer + 3.95oz CWS = 9.35oz of reciprocating weight, which IS NOT counting my BCG weight - a full weight BCG... And some of these manufacturers think that a weakling 3.8oz buffer actually works in a .308AR?... Rubbish... Bullshiit. 3.8oz buffers don't beling in .308ARs, unless that's the "tuned weight" that you came up with in your Race Gun build. I've proven this time and time again. My $0.02.

Eurasian Collared Dove are considered a "pest" here, or "nuisance" - however they class them. So, free game anytime, anywhere. Eliminate them whenever you see fit. I think Saturday night, we'll be turning some of them into dinner at @JBMatt's house.

I notice that you're leaning towards lightweights BCGs and some other non-standard parts for this gun. Why? What are you looking for out of those items, and what do you think they'll do for you?

^^^ NO SHIIT!

Smaller diameters use larger ports, larger diameters use smaller ports - for the same barrel configuration. Change dwell time, changes port. Change gas system length, changes port. There's a ton of variables. That's why the barrel construction details are paramount, trying to figure out someone's running issue. Recoil system issues are the bulk of the problem for Large Frame ARs. After that, it's gas system problems, in a close second. Beyond those two, it's someone that didn't tell us that they had mismatched components, or 80% receivers, or something like that. Lightweight BCGs belong in Race Guns. Fancy recoil systems belong in Race Guns. Adjustable gas blocks shouldn't be "necessary" unless you run suppressed AND unsuppressed.

SMOKE IT! Drill it, and your guns runs now. I look forward to your shooting results.

I have one of the T2 (H2) powdered tungsten Spike's buffers. It's no different that any other H2 with 3 reciprocating weights. It's no game changer. Shiitty thing is, I can never make it heavier or lighter, by changing out a steel weight for a tungsten. It is what it ships as, no way to reconfigure it it needed... As an H2-weighted buffer, it does it's job. If there were no regular H2 buffers in stock anywhere, and I needed one, and it was available, I'd buy it.

For which caliber? the Creed or .308 Win that you have? That's not enough for the 18" .308 Win riflegas. That would be okay on an 18" 6.5C gas gun. I'm 0.080" on a 20" riflegas .260. Lose dwell time (20" down to 18"), up the gas port diameter. 0.082" or 0.086" will work on an 18" 6.5 C. I used those numbers because they're #45 and #44 numbered drill bits, in that order. You shouldn't have to go over that #44 drill bit on that barrel. Pending journal size,of course. That's referenced off a 0.750" journal size. I'd do 18". I think 18" is perfect. If I could have bought an 18" .260 barrel when I built that gun, I would have. The shortest decent barrel I could buy-right-now was that 20" from Wilson Combat. It shipped with a 0.070" gas port, so once I figured that out and drilled it up to 0.080", it'll eat anything, and it runs like a champ. I'd love it even more if it was an 18" barrel. It does so well as it is, that I'll never change anything about it. You laid down alot of information - I'll answer the stuff that I know in a little while. Oh, zero interest in that KAC M110 suppressor. Or their gas block for it. I'm sure it's magic, on that platform. I'd take it if it was issued, but have no desire to buy one.

Nope. Eventually, the forward end of that barrel gets machined, so an Allen Engineering AEM5 drops right on.

Correct, mostly. YOU NEED THE #44 DRILL BIT! Only try the 45 if they don't have a 44 at your store... But - you don't have enough gas going through that barrel/gas tube, with less than a 0.078" gas port diameter, on that barrel configuration. That part is accurate.

This is the .308 Win Mk11 gas gun that I'm talking about:

It's a Fireball-Making Bitch, right there... I think it's responsible for taking out the t-post on the 450 target one night...

Just go to ACE Hardware - there has to be one close to you, they're everywhere. You're looking for Irwin numbered drill bits, and they're in a blue and yellow package. For your barrel, I'd just drill it 0.085" and be done with it. There's no need to test between 0.080"~0.085". I know for a fact that 0.085" works well, from past experience on 18" midlengths with 0.750" journals, for .308 Win. You're looking and a #44 drill bit. I use this reference all the time: https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/drillsize.php?Source=Google&device=c&keyword=&utm_medium=referral&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjo2JBhCRARIsAFG667U19dp7wlL8YiGTJ1kF8u5-J5MdnWAKmLCl5Bw1AX8tCR2FQX11lK4aAkfZEALw_wcB If your local ACE doesn't have a #44, get the #45. It's smaller (0.082"), but will still run your gun. Use the #45 and hog it out a little. #44 is your first choice, though. This is what you'll see on the rack - look for that packaging:

That is one bad little bastard right there, brother. Congrats!

I was gonna say that - hit that UNIT button...

5/64" = 0.0781", and 1/16" = 0,.0625" - so we're somewhere in there. Carbine gas tubes are 9 3/4" long, to that's a midlength gas tube. So, end result is this: Get the Sprinco Orange spring in there, keep the rest of your recoil system parts besides that spring. The 5/64" bit won't go, and that 0.078", which would be too small anyway. You'll need to open that gas port up a bit. It'll run after that...