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Everything posted by 98Z5V
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Not for this guy - it's been about a year ago that someone needed to turn their receiver extension in another turn... But, it has come up in the past, and it's something I always watch for and ask for pics of - just to see...
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No way, no how, ever, ever, ever. Don't even try it, or think about it. This is the difference you're looking at, by trying that:
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You already showed me you BAR. 4 or 5 years ago, your first trip down here. You forgot about that, didn't you. I know, we drank alot that night...
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My reference for this is only on .260 Remington, as it's the only load that I have that needs it. I'm necking down Hornady .308 Win Match brass to a smaller caliber, and confining that brass dimension (neck diameter of .308 Win brass) to a smaller outside diameter, overall, through the .260 sizing die - that's all it takes to make .260 brass from .308 Win brass - or so one should think. There's no chopping and chamfering - even though I VLD chamfer all of them, inner and outer. It's not like cutting down 5.56 brass for 300BLK case manufacture. By doing that, I've increased the wall thickness at the neck - same amount of brass, displacing a smaller diameter, and internal is sized by the sizer die, last, as it comes out of the sizer die - that means increased outer diameter, in some instances. Depends on the brass, really. I'm using the best brass I can for this, to make my own cases - and when I run them through the neck turner device - they don't always have the same trim marks. That's the byproduct of downsizing extremely accurate brass for another caliber. If it makes a difference on Hornady .308 Win match brass, downsized to .260 caliber, it would have a huge difference on range-trash 7.62 pickups, out there. I wasn't aware of it initially, until I had problems chambering some of my early .260 brass conversions. Some chambered, some didn't. All from the same once-fired Hornady .308 Match brass. I run the regular Hornady Match brass through the .260 Rem RCBS sizer/deprimer die. I then switch dies to the KM sizer die - this is important, for the internal dimensions for cutting the necks down. I then lock it into the KM tool, and turn down the necks. The cutting tool both supports the internal support for turning the necks, and turns the external diameter to what you need to not stick the round in the chamber. You get to adjust this dimension, to what you need, with this tool. When you neck UP brass, this is almost never a concern - you're turning the same amount of material into a larger diameter - the neck thickness will be fine, thinner,actually. This is the first caliber I've turned down, with exceptional quality brass - and it caught me a few times. I invested in the right tool immediately.
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Range estimation is #1, Will. That's the biggest downfall of all distance shooters. Wind is #2. You have to know how far away the target is, first, then you have to account for the wind at that distance.
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You did the right thing, man. @survivalshop - just wanted you to see this accounting of the situation, brother.
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Will, I have a few observations about that. #1. That's a 5.56 gas piston Adams Arms system, and it's a 16" barreled carbine gas system. It's not a DI system. #2. .308 Win recoil is radically different than 5.56 recoil. #3. Just because it works well on a 5.56 gas piston 16" carbine gas system, doesn't means it's gonna give you the same performance from a "whatever barrel and gas system" gun in .308 Win. But it might be similar, on some respects. Depends on how the company "adapted" it to .308 Win. #4. I have a Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle that's about 6 or 7 years old now - I'd have to look to make sure. It's a 16" barreled .308 Win bolt action, and it comes with a SHIITY Ruger "flash hider" that's about worthless. When I first shot that thing, I thought the fillings in my teeth were gonna fall out. It SUCKED that bad. I wanted to throw the rifle in a dumpster, and light it on fire. I changed the muzzle device to a Spike's Tactical Dynacomp, and it completely changed the felt recoil to the shooter. And I decided to keep it, and not throw it away and light it on fire. #5. Some chart or device on a 5.56 gas piston gun isn't always gonna perform the same way on a (whateverbarrel, whatevergassystem) .308 AR. It just won't be the same. It might be close, but it's not gonna be identical, every time. #6. .308 muzzle devices were tested here, on this board, and the videos are out there. That was a NorCal member here, and it was quite the exhaustive test. It's worth looking into. Bottom line - linking a chart on 5.56 stuff isn't gonna directly cross over to .308 stuff. You're only talking apples and oranges, but it's different. Some people that come on here like to compare apples to hammers, and they're so far off it's not even funny. This isn't one of those cases - but it's just not the same.
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^^^ SEE?!!? See those marks on the ears of your lower? That's damn sure not 0.250" of impact right there. 0.250"worth if impact would have been WAY WORSE on your lower, for sure. You seeing this @survivalshop? That receiver extension if flared at the bottom, too, to better hold the buffer retainer - that's why we don't measure at the bottom of the receiver extension, and only at the top... There's also no way that receiver extension can go in another turn, either - which has been a problem in the past - one more turn, into the proper position, can stop impact damage - that's not the case here. I've documented cases of it before.
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^^^ This right here is why I recommend real Armalite AR-10 Carbine recoil system parts. What you stated just proved my point for me, brother. You always measure a receiver extension at the top of the receiver extension - so if there is a flare at the bottom to help retain the buffer retainer, that doesn't count for internal depth. I've stated this exact thing before here, numerous times. 1/4" is 0.250" - if a receiver extension is 1/4" too long, I can guarantee you that the BCG will hit the ears on the lower receiver, and start tearing up parts.
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With consistent ammo, the two biggest reasons to miss a target at distance on a flat range is: #1. Range Estimation - you gotta get that right, first... #2. Wind - gotta be able to call the wind, and either adjust for it or hold for it... When you're not on a flat range, and shooting angles, it's all about the cosine - angle determination. Anything 5 degrees and under, you don't even calculate - it doesn't matter, it's so small. Even up to 15 degrees, it's a very small difference, depending on the distance. Out to 300 yards, 15 degrees, it almost doesn't matter unless the target is tiny. That would be #3. Everything else is up to the loose nut behind the trigger...
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You can see the difference, downrange, at distance. It shows up pretty clearly on the steel, once you get out and look at them. The predictability is the greatest part. That's the whole reason I load my own, brother.
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Slash only uses AR-10 recoil springs in the DPMS and Armalite guns. He uses Wolf XP springs in the AR15 heavies, and Armalite springs in the regular AR15s. That's it. RRA is different, like the whole platform. Any reference you see on the Armalite and DPMS based springs in that chart, for a .308AR, is the Armalite EA1095 spring.
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Best off-the-shelf ammo for these things is the Hornady Black, which is a 123 grain ELD-M projectile. Get a case of that, and you're set. Which ever scope you go with, I'll whip up a drop chart for you in either mils or MOA for that ammo and your gun specs. I duplicated that loading for my own reloading, at a tiny bit more muzzle velocity, and it's excellent. I don't have to worry about changes at distance, switching between to the two loads, it's that close. You'll like that ammo. I'm not going to edit this one, just because.
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^^^ That's gonna get you in trouble, mister. Editing is BAD. Not editing is GOOD.
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You want mils or MOA? For the scope, go with Primary Arms 4~14, either the mil reticle of the MOA reticle, your preference. You know I'm a mils guy, and Matt is an MOA guy. These ones right here: https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44mm-riflescope-mil-dot-pa4-14xffp https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44mm-ffp-riflescope-arc-2-moa-reticle Reason for the price difference you see -the mil scope is not illuminated, the MOA one is illuminated... I will say this, for the MOA scope - the illumination grid is far superior to the other PA 4~14 illuminated scopes, specifically, the ACSS HUD DMR line. Put it in a LaRue LT-158 mount, 30mm rings. That mount has 10 MOA of cant built into it - and you'll need it for the distance this round can go.
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You need to take up that 1/4" inside that extension, to keep the BCG from slamming the ears on the lower. 4 quarters will do it. Gas port diameter should be close. Slash's Big Buffer Table has the rest of the info you're talking about - click it to make it bigger:
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You guys have no idea how bad I hope "his buddy" is actually a guy from X-Caliber, and "his buddy" decides to dip his toe back into this pool again. Bring it. We have 8 stored pages of X-Caliber shiit to unleash here. That's not a typo. For the record, too - because this idiot couldn't understand it - his gas tube is WAY TOO FUCKING LONG - even though he stated that very thing in his thread title. I offered information about gas port LOCATION on the barrel, between Armalite and DPMS, and this asshead jumped to conclusions - that he didn't know what he was talking about. I asked the guy to measure that gas tube, but he imploded before we got to that point. If he had a standard-ish gas tube length, somewhere between Armalite and DPMS gas tube lengths - then YES that barrel is fucked, according to that pic he posted!!! If that RRA LAR-8 gas tube that he tried to use on a DPMS-based build is way longer than other, "normal" shiit - then he, as the builder, just fucked it up, and didn't know what the fornicate he was doing. Just getting parts form where ever, thinking it's an AR15, and it AIN'T. But, we never got to that gas tube length, and he went up...
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They're hard to find - DSG Arms has them right now, as I type this. The price is fair. https://dsgarms.com/arm10007005
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Armalite doesn't make an AR-10 midlength gas tube. The only thing they do for the AR-10 is Carbine length and Rifle length - and those numbers are different than AR15 gas tubes. What you're looking for is an Armalite AR-10 Carbine gas tube, which measures... DPMS Gas Tube/AR 15/16 Pistol 6-5/8 Carbine 9-3/4 Mid-Length 11-3/4 Rifle 15-1/4 Armalite lengths, Rifle ( 308 ) ----- 15.5 " Carbine ( 308 )--12 1/16" super SASS Carbine ( 308 )--11" Super SASS< Rife (308 ) ? Mid ,( 223 )------------------ 11 3/4" Carbine ( 223) --------------- 9 3/4 " Rifle ( 223 ) ------------------- 15 3/16" AR15 National Match---------15 3/16" (That's myinformation, from the one I have here...)
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I could have addressed this with an edit - but you'd think I was hiding something from you. I get the feeling this isn't the first board that you've done this on - and not the first board you've left. Good luck in your future. Good luck with that combination of parts from different manufacturers, on a platform with zero standards to follow. Hope you get it running.
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Research it. There are MANY BARREL MANUFACTURERS placing the gas port location helf way between AR15-length gas port locations, and Armalite AR-10 gas port locations (they're different), in order that most people can use either gas system, and work most of the time. This is common knowledge, for a few years now, but it seems new to you. Also, X-Caliber has sent out barrels with gas ports that are too small, before - and that's documented here. Research.
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Yet, here you are. They didn't help you with this issue? Were you referred here to get help with this? There are people here trying to help you - and it's a bunch of bullshiit from you, instead of information that's requested of you to help you with what's going on... So, if you feel the need to leave...









