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Everything posted by 98Z5V
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Man, if I could get so lucky... I wish I was Larry, and just won everything that I entered in... He'll find that comment someday... ^^^ It's true !! A guy from Pennsylvania that bought some LaRue MBT triggers the week of July 4th won the first UU upper MBT drawing !! It's an 18" 5.56. Pennsylvania guys, go check your LaRue email !! For the rest of you, every week between now and Christmas someone that bought an MBT during the week we're drawing for, will win themselves an Ultimate Upper kit. Our MBT triggers are taking the trigger market by storm ... we expect to have made and shipped our 50,000th MBT before this coming Christmas. Order an MBT today to get in on this week's drawing. Enjoy the clean break, Mark LaRue
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I didn't even think about it - never grabbed the length of the weights in the buffers. Just popped that AP shorty back apart to measure one of the steel weights I stuck back in it - 0.607" long, both of them. Just call it 0.600" for planning purposes... Found some 1/2" tungsten rod on A-zon. Prices vary WILDLY! Wow! Some people are really proud of their tungsten rod... The best deal (I think) that I saw was a 1/2" diameter pure tungsten rod, 12" in length, for $128.80, with free shipping. There's a 36" piece of it up for $505! What?!... There's C2 Tungsten Carbide on there, Copper Tungsten, etc. Just watch what you find there, and in any general search for it. Look for "pure tungsten" or something that says the percentage; saw several listings that said "99.95% pure tungsten..." So, that 12" piece for $128.80. 12/0.6= 20 pieces of tungsten, out of that 12" rod. You won't get that,because of kerf, so throw one piece out, right away - call it 19 pieces of tungsten from that 12" rod. $128.80/19= $6.78, each piece. That's not bad, right there. You can afford to build your own heavier buffers that way, if you want to brave cutting the tungsten. Shiit is harder than woodpecker lips.
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That decision looks like it actually takes a step further than Heller!
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WOW!!! ?
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Yep, that's an H1 alright - that one different weight is the one tungsten weight in it, the other two are steel. The buffer body should be aluminum, and the magnet only stuck to it because the weights were inside it - that magnet was after the weights...
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What do you have on order or in the mail? Part 2
98Z5V replied to imschur's topic in General Discussion
This looks like wash's buddy's gun... @washguy -
What do you have on order or in the mail? Part 2
98Z5V replied to imschur's topic in General Discussion
How you gonna aim that thing? -
What do you have on order or in the mail? Part 2
98Z5V replied to imschur's topic in General Discussion
^^^ Right!!! I'll probably never get a paycheck... -
It's getting closer, men. We're less than 3 months out now. Plan your gig, plan your rig. Plan you ammo, most importantly. I've received not one ammo solution yet, from anyone, on their ammo dope. I can't plug in your ammo specifics into the Applied Ballistics Kestrel weather meter, if I don't know your ammo specifics... PM me the info, don't clog this tread.
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What do you have on order or in the mail? Part 2
98Z5V replied to imschur's topic in General Discussion
You think that now, brother.... -
What do you have on order or in the mail? Part 2
98Z5V replied to imschur's topic in General Discussion
I already have a job with my Gun Pusher... You fuckers better beware... -
What do you have on order or in the mail? Part 2
98Z5V replied to imschur's topic in General Discussion
They suck is what happened, combined with "slow in the summer" happened, and the bean-counting fucktards can't figure that out- IN Arizona... I laugh. It will bite them in the ass. I was their central parts-hub. They don't have that anymore, and they'll be confused as FUK tomorrow when poop starts showing up from UPS/Fedex/USPS, and they don't know what the fuk it is... Bean-counters can eat a bowl of dicks... -
What do you have on order or in the mail? Part 2
98Z5V replied to imschur's topic in General Discussion
Got plenty of time for phonecalls tomorrow, since I got laid off today... Bring it brother! -
^^^ Exactly...
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Here's the .260 Remington Project, right now... Long story...
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What do you have on order or in the mail? Part 2
98Z5V replied to imschur's topic in General Discussion
You better gut your buffer of all it's weights to run that anorexic bitch... I'm just sayin'... -
Seriously, don't worry about that, not in the least. There's nothing that can happen with the function of that gas gun that we can't figure out, collectively. No kidding. Build that beast, let us know what's going on (if anything goes on), and it can be figured out. It's nothing but a machine, really, and it can't out-think us. We can beat it. You run that Armalite AR-10 Carbine Recoil System, and knowing the Wilson Combat match barrels - it's gonna be right... And you should have a functioning rifle, right off the bat. Might not be exactly how you want it to "feel" - and that's what "tuning" is for - but I'll bet my money it doesn't fail you in any way. It'll run. I have a Wilson Combat .338 Federal 16" match barrel - holy shiit is that thing the duck's nuts, right there. I'm building a .260 Remington now, and it's getting the Wilson Combat match barrel for it... Go with great parts when you're building weird shiit. That increases the chances that it'll run like it's supposed to...
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No suppressors on this house, no matter how much shiit I take for it. I should have 17 of the damn things by now, but I don't. That's my fault. Will be corrected someday, with 17 suppressors. I think that you should build a functional gun for your ammo, and always start with basic parts. Always. Don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit. Once your basic functional gun is really fully functional, trick it the fuk out however you want. I don't believe in adjustable gas block to get a DI gun to run - if you need an adjustable gas block to make your DI gun run, then you fucked up the basics somewhere along the line, and your gun isn't right to begin with. My $0.02 on that BS. Now, I DO believe in adjustable gas blocks, for their intended purpose - run suppressed, and run without suppressor. That is where I believe they have their true function. I think you need a 5.4 oz buffer to run a .308AR. If everything is right, you should never need more. After that, if you're running suppressed as well, you need an adjustable gas block (Yes, I said it). If you ONLY run suppressed, get into some of that crazy buffer weight that's way higher, and reduce the beating on your gun. No sense in beating up parts, at all. My opinion is that you should never run anything LESS than 5.4oz in buffer weight on a .308AR - it was designed that way. Once you're lower than that, you have to make other compromises, in weaker recoil springs, smaller gas ports in the barrel, etc. This is fine for "race gun guys," but not in the real world. Build your race gun anyway you want. Off my soapbox...
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That's a damn good deal - the tungsten has to cost him more than that... ?
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At $55 MSRP, that's a deal, and you don't have to do any work. Here it is: https://www.kakindustry.com/lr308-carbine-buffer-heavy If you don't mind the work, this method saves you 3 bucks, get's you a spare buffer bumper and roll pin, and you get to MONGO-SMASH!!! the shiit out of that light little aluminum buffer body when you're done. In my eyes, that saves me thousands in therapy down the road...
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ID on a buffer body is 1/2". It's standard, across the board. You might run into some weird shiit from a cheapass company, but I doubt it - they all have "the buffer plans." Geissele sells those weights for all buffers, so I doubt you'll find anything different out there. I don't think any cheapass company is that stupid, brother...
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I'll Cerakote the hell out of it, too, and make it FLAT FLAT, so there's not a chance it will ever glare on you... The DD serrations are brilliant. You see it on front sights on bolt guns all the time, and some pistols - but DD is the only one to pick up on that and offer it on an AR front sight base. That kinda shiit should be standard issue, it's so damn smart...
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Mil-spec is rolled threads, 1.14" OD. Commercial is thicker at 1.17", because they cut the threads.
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They don't even make it as a commercial sized extension. mil-spec diameter only (1.14" O.D.). @300grPills, sorry I sounded short in the conversation. It's a tough enough aspect to build what you're building, and make it run perfect right out of the box. The gas port diameter is going to be critical, and everything might come down to that. In order to shortcut the whole "operational, or problems?" thing that might come up - which is a real possibility - you'll need to stick to the basics, as a foundation of the build. Nothing fancy, nothing gimmicky, nothing complicated. Basic functional parts. No weird recoil systems, no hydraulic buffers, no weird or fancy recoil springs, no "silent-captured" anything. No adjustable gasblocks or "switchblocks..." Just a regular, standard basic gasblock. Just basic parts. As far as the recoil system goes - a rifle buffer weighs 5.4 oz. That's what the basic system needs to function. The H3 buffer is 5.4 oz. Direct swap, equivalent performance and operation. Not less, not more - for a basic system. Sometimes lighter, or heavier, down the road, depending on how you "tune" it. The DPMS-based large-frame recoil systems are a complete mess, because there are too many many facturers that just make whatever they want. There is no pattern or set of prints to follow; no standard. I would bet that there are hundreds of manufacturers, literally, in this country that have their own take on it, and they do what they want. My recommendation for the Armalite system is simple - only one company makes it, and they make it the exact same, everytime. It's proven, there's no guesswork, and it's the resulting product from the original design, and the original designer, of the platform. Get the rifle fully functional, and you can switch out some of those basic parts later, for the complicated high-speed parts, one part at a time, until it's "tuned" to your liking. That way, when the rifle ceases to function, or performs poorly, you'll know exactly what caused it, instead of trying to figure out this big fancy, complicated mess of an expensive rifle... Example - build it with a standard, plain gasblock first, and the AR-10 Carbine Recoil System. When you take it out the first time, with good ammo, and it won't cycle - you might have gas port sizing problems... Or, you take it out the first time, and it functions wonderfully - the gas port size is good! Now, you put on that fancy adjustable gas block, and the gun won't even cycle with the gas block in the "wide-open" position... The issue is that fancy gas block, then... Don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit... We are here to help, even if it sounded like I wasn't here to help... That's not the case, man...
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We're only here to help, man. You can take the information, and use the information. You have to determine what you're gonna do, because we're not building it. I'll tell you this right now - I read your first post, way up there. You need to run the Armalite AR-10 Carbine Recoil System, complete. Period. The answers to that decision are in the linked posts I gave you - that are all over this board. Just search that term, with quotes. "Armalite AR-10 Carbine Recoil System" You'll feel like you're trying to take a drink from a firehose. The info is all over this site. You gotta look for it, and it's not hard to find. I'm not trying to be a complete a$s, but this info has been covered indepth, repeatedly, over and over, and over. It seems that you're not even looking for it, in the least. When I see something like this from you: I'm shocked from seeing the questions that I am, from you. My mistake. I assumed that the AR platform would be child's play for you, based on the complicated rifle that you built. That's not an insult, in the least -that's me thinking that you had more experience than I anticipated. You need to look at both sides here...









