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Everything posted by 98Z5V
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Right on their own website, this model number or any combination of it, doesn't turn up anything... I searched this exactly, and all combinations of it: Leapers UTG mod# RB-T308B Disregard - manually hunting it down turns up this item, by part number: https://leapers.com/prod_detail.php?mitem=acces&level1=&level2=&itemno=RB-T308FB&status=&mtrack=m
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Specs first, on what you have. Preferably, with pictures. Relaxed length on the spring, and number of coils. Length of buffer. That stuff has to come first for us to figure out that you're running - despite what any kind of product description states. You can never count on some dip-wad putting the correct parts in your shipment box. So, pics and specs... Help us help you...
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Seems the only people that got on board with it think the shiit is made of gold, and price their mounts accordingly. M-LOK is WAY easier to work with, IMHO.
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One interesting thing I did with this build was the small rail section on the handguard. Forgot to mention it before. Now, opinions being like assholes, and everyone having one... I'm not a giant fan of KeyMod. When I got this matched receiver set, it was with the rail, and I wasn't gonna say no to it, for sure - GREAT matched receiver set and damn nice profile on the rail! However, as the build was finishing up, I needed to find a small rail section for a light (in the future) and a way to add a QD socket for a forward sling mount... Well, KeyMod shiit is very specialized, pricey, and I didn't want to take up a metric shiit-ton of space just to get this done... Enter Strike Industries, once again. They make this 7-section piece of picatinny rail WITH a QD socket in it, AND the thing works on both KeyMod and M-LOK. I wish I would have grabbed a pic of the backside of it, so you can see how it's made to fit both, but I'm not taking it back off just to get a pic for you bastages. It's a damn smart design. At any rate, if any of you guys are looking for something like this, then search it out from Strike Industries.
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I'm using the Fortis Switch on my 16" .308AR, and just fired up my new Wilson Combat .338 Fed barrel the other day - excellent hardware! Diggin' the 1911 and the CMC Power10 mag, also great stuff. Well done.
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That's probaby an AR15 buffer in there, and way too long for a 308AR.
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This is in the Contest Section - so, what are the rules, and what are you giving away?...
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Suppressors cost money - for the BATFE. SOOOO many people have applied, and it still takes them about 9 months to unfuk your paperwork... for a measly $200. It's just not worth it for them,with the additional hiring, overtime, etc... We'll probably see suppressors approved as non-tax stamp items, but they'll still be regulated - bet you'll have to 4473 them, just like firearms. That part is a given in the equation. In the meantime, I'll be making my own. Once the burden of approved stamps for suppressors is lifted from the BATFE, they STILL won't get any damn faster at approving any other stamped items, though. It's Bureaucratic Inefficiancy at it's finest.
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This is what the link in their article takes you to - safefirearmsstorage.org... http://safefirearmsstorage.org/
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Can't pull back charging handle after round is chambered.
98Z5V replied to Jeff's topic in General Discussion
Good man. -
HAHA!!!
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Don't try to press it out - put a punch (that's larger than the small end of the pin) on it, and smack the hell out of it! You're not going to hurt anything,so let that fear go. Hit that thing like Ali, man - you HAVE to...
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Any of them blued, Mack? Meaning, blued metal, not parkerized? I've got some other stuff for you, for blued metal, if you've got that. I'm sure you do, man. Don't you HATE wiping all that down with a silicone cloth, then worrying if you touched it,...only to store it,and find you DID touch it, when you see that rusty fingerprint on a part of the barrel? That's acid on your skin that does that. I've got something you can wipe on that neutralizes acid, after it's wiped on. You could wipe down your blued shotgun barrels, then grab them by the barrels to put them in the safe - never have a mark on them, WAY down the road...
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You fuckers are crazy... I've been planning to build a trebuchet. I don't know if I'll get it finished before this next meet...
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Can't pull back charging handle after round is chambered.
98Z5V replied to Jeff's topic in General Discussion
Hey Jeff, just read your intro - were you putting reloads in that? Sticking reloads? Might be neck diameter, if it was... -
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Can't pull back charging handle after round is chambered.
98Z5V replied to Jeff's topic in General Discussion
He nailed it. Might be a tight chamber, too, but that's not too common anymore. 'Bout 5 years ago, though... that shiit was common. -
They are tapered pins. I think I've posted about this, but it was a long time ago. Hit the SMALL end of the pin - look at the left sides and right sides, and you'll see what I mean. And you need to hit it like it took something from you. SMACK the fuk outta that thing. It'll move. Don't be afraid of it, just MASH IT. I'm being serious... Here's a good writeup on it: http://www.gswagner.com/arsight/arsightmods2.html
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I wish! It sure would smell good once you heated the hell out of it!!!
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Been working with an additives manufacturer for the last 2.5 years, in the motorcycle industry. Turns out, personally, he's a firearms guy. The topic of lube came up, and he mixed up a concoction that he's gonna market. I've been his beta tester. I've used it on the break-in of the last two AR-15s, but those little things will run bone-dry when new. This is the first large-frame AR I've finished since I got the product. I will send out some samples to any well-respected, contributing members. I'll contact those of you. Give it a whirl, contact me with recommendations, give me back a quick write-up on it...
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Tell you what - this rifle shoots easier than the 16" .308AR I have. DAMN easier than the 16" .308 Win bolt gun that I have (Ruger GSR, WITH Spike's DynaComp). That GSR used to rattle teeth, before the comp on it. Now, it just shakes teeth... This .338 Fed AR shoots softer than the .308 WIN AR, and it's the exact same brake on both rifles - so, ZERO disparity there. Damn, this thing is nice...
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Okay, back to the lube. LUBE. Only fired 60 rounds today out of the rifle. However, stripped everything in the BCG down when I got home, and literally wiped it all down. I literally WIPED all the junk off the bolt tail, and the firing pin. Now, granted, it was only 60 rounds down the pipe - but everything was coated before I left, and I WIPED IT OFF once I returned... I've never been able to do this before... More testing will definitely happen.









