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Muzzle brake on SS barrel?


Papa

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I read a lot before doing/buying anything.  I have about 20 firearm magazines of various types here on the coffee table, and was looking at the .223 before, but decided it was too light a caliber for what I wanted.  I also realize that the author of the magazine article is one voice, though they always seem to know what they are talking about.  A forum like this has many more voices, many more opinions, and are spending their own hard earned money.  I am learning a little bit, and am smart enough to know I don't know jack.  I looked at a few .308s at Sportsman's Warehouse this afternoon, all DPMS, while talking to a buddy who mainly hunts deer with a .300 rifle and/or crossbow, but has taken a hog.  I have the RRA catalog, and a few others.  I really doubt I will be shooting any hogs beyond 200 yds, but want a clean kill with one shot, with the ability to quickly follow up should it/they charge or if just wounded.  I am looking for quality, accuracy, and reliability.  I have thought about a build, but think I should get my feet wet with a factory rifle.  I appreciate your time and knowledge.

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muzzle brakes are good keeping muzzle climb down so a follow up shot will be or can be faster.  but they also seem to make weapon LOUDER. and in 308. that LOUD will hurt.  a flash suppressor does not IMHO reduce  recoil at all.  I would also buy a thread protector so you can shoot without any muzzle attachments

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308reloaded,

I am looking to reduce recoil with a muzzle brake. I have an old and recurring injury that I am trying to protect. 

Thanks for your reply,

Papa

Before you spend the money on a brake I would shoot a few rounds thru the rifle.  I found my 21" Noveske has little more recoil than a M4 AR.  A 16" or 18" well have slightly more than a 21" but not much.  I also work at reducing recoil because of previous heart surgery.  Dr's wanted me to give up shooting but I refused.  Brakes, recoil pads and I'm still shooting 8mm and .338's

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