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2005 F150 info


survivalshop

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    Not sure what years this covers , but I have had a issue with the LCD display for my Odometer , outside air temp. &  Compass  read out , its a rectangular display on the bottom right of the Gage cluster , so they want $359 & change for a new one plus a $ 300 core charge , that you don't get back until the company who probably just rebuilds them & sells them for new , gets the core . 
 I found a place in South Carolina who rebuilds the whole gage cluster $ 149 & free return shipping , including the LCD display which is a known issue with my 2005 F150.

     The display will work above freezing & below 75 deg. , I have done all the online fixes & it just doesn't work , it does for a while , but soon goes away.

    What I found was , while I was going to take the Gage set to be shipped off is , the Truck starts , runs & all the safety things work , like lights , turn signals , but , no A/C , no  Window operation & no radio power , with the Gage set unplugged , WTF , 12 volt power must run through the Gage wiring harness , I guess I could jump the power source , I have a manual , but why bother , the Gage set should be back by next Monday , they have a one day turn around , but two day shipping .

 

Edited by survivalshop
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Chevy had a huge issue with their gauge motors as we've talked about before I got mine rebuild by a place in the lacrosse wi area, one week turn around also got white faces and blue LED's installed was like 150$ truck operated normal with out them installed I did for a couple days run gps mph app on my phone but then I realized that was a waste of time and data lol

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   Its funny , the Blower works , the indicator lights show its in A/C mode , but no Compressor , has to be the Compressor Clutch is not being engaged . Thats some crazy $hit , now I have to get the manual & look at the wiring schematic . Hell if I had window operation , I could go to the range , but its 91 deg. & about 80% Humidity out there , I'll stay home & load ammo .:laffs:

 I at first thought it was a blown fuse , but I have had that Gage cluster unplugged many times , to remove it to temporally fix this issue & no issue with any fuse .

Edited by survivalshop
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4 hours ago, survivalshop said:

   Its funny , the Blower works , the indicator lights show its in A/C mode , but no Compressor , has to be the Compressor Clutch is not being engaged . Thats some crazy $hit , now I have to get the manual & look at the wiring schematic . Hell if I had window operation , I could go to the range , but its 91 deg. & about 80% Humidity out there , I'll stay home & load ammo .:laffs:

 I at first thought it was a blown fuse , but I have had that Gage cluster unplugged many times , to remove it to temporally fix this issue & no issue with any fuse .

That's very strange I know when I read no ac I thought in FLA in August ?? F THAT!!!

Edited by shepp
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7 hours ago, DNP said:

That's funny...must be a 2005 thing.  Not a good year for instrument clusters.  Like Shepp said...I also have a Chevy with cluster issues. Haven't found it worthwhile to swap.  Maybe next year. 

Chevy was like 03-07, mine was an o4. I finally changed mine after the temp went. 

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7 hours ago, DNP said:

That's funny...must be a 2005 thing.  Not a good year for instrument clusters.  Like Shepp said...I also have a Chevy with cluster issues. Haven't found it worthwhile to swap.  Maybe next year. 

   There is a 12V power source to a A/C control module from the instrument gages , I have power to the Fan & it works , but even a manual ( like mine ) climate control ,it has a A/C control Module . This A/C Control module must have the Compressor clutch relay for the Compressor Clutch . It shows the Module & the relay ( separate ) but no actual control for that relay , it just goes to that Module . I'm not messing with jumping power to anything , I just wait till the Instrument cluster comes back.:thumbup:

 If you think of it , who unplugs their Instrument cluster , so its a safe place to put control wiring .It just struck me as odd , that the windows would be with out 12V , but looking at the diagram there is a heated window ( probably rear ) that goes to that Module , I have to look into this Control module a little more closely .

  2004-2011 is the F150 series , they probably all will do the same . Just strange to me , but I'm no engineer :laffs:

Edited by survivalshop
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On 8/14/2017 at 10:32 AM, survivalshop said:

    What I found was , while I was going to take the Gage set to be shipped off is , the Truck starts , runs & all the safety things work , like lights , turn signals , but , no A/C , no  Window operation & no radio power , with the Gage set unplugged , WTF , 12 volt power must run through the Gage wiring harness , I guess I could jump the power source , I have a manual , but why bother , the Gage set should be back by next Monday , they have a one day turn around , but two day shipping .

 

Brother, alot of the gauge - and actual sensor info that feeds those gauges - is on a 5-volt reference.  5-Volts DC is the base voltage that they feed from, and the return voltage is what the computer makes it's decisions from. 

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3 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

Brother, alot of the gauge - and actual sensor info that feeds those gauges - is on a 5-volt reference.  5-Volts DC is the base voltage that they feed from, and the return voltage is what the computer makes it's decisions from. 

      There has to to be 12V power source involved some where , my power windows don't work , none of them ( I have four ) , but the power door locks work , I just find it strange how or why they powered some of the 12V power source through the Harness that plugs into the Instrument Panel , just crazy to me , but maybe an easy route for an engineer who designed it .:laffs:

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  My instrument Panel was put on a Fed Ex truck today .

    I got a call from them this morning ,  he said that they powered it up & its working fine & how was it malfunctioning . I asked if they were in an Air Conditioned Space for repair , of course it was, well , I said , it shuts down at around 28 deg. & over 75 deg. , just goes blank , a common problem with this year series F150's .  The were going to replace the complete Board for me , I said , cool , my truck is hot to drive :laffs:

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On 8/16/2017 at 3:13 AM, survivalshop said:

      There has to to be 12V power source involved some where , my power windows don't work , none of them ( I have four ) , but the power door locks work ,

Depends on how they wired it, factory-speaking, of course.  Take my Nissan for example. 5-volt references everywhere, for sensors.  My damn power windows stopped working - only driver's side.  Other side worked fine.  Tracked it down to a combination of a blown out relay and the driver's side control panel in the armrest (the actual button that controls the window).  All that shiit routes THROUGH the keyfob control box, in which the keyfob hasn't worked in years...  Replaced the relay, replaced the $122 fucking armrest switch assembly, and my windows work again.  My keyfob still doesn't do shiit... 

You can't base "common electrical logic" on how modern automotive engineers design shiit...   :thumbup::lmao:

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Had some driver's side power seat controls in a '96 Mustang stop working - because the factory radio amplifier shiit itself...  Go figure that they'd route power seat controls through a damn radio amplifier...  Fucking Ford...  :lmao:

What was I to do?  I crashed that piece of shiit and then stepped away...  :laffs:

 

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     Got my Instrument Panel yesterday , everything works , sure is nice to have A/C , but , I have the Air Bag light lit now , whats funny is , I was getting a chime once in a while that usually sounds when I get low enough on fuel to put the low fuel light on , but wasn't low on fuel , so I'm thinking its one of two things , , since I had an audible ,but no light , I think I have an issue with something in the Air Bag system or somethings not right with the new board or work done to the Instrument panel . 

      Since they tested the instrument panel, I would think if there was something shorted out to light that light , I believe its an issue with the Air Bag sensor system . I did some psoliminary testing form items that should be checked , by looking around the net  & I think it may be my Impact Sensor in front of the Radiator , everything else looks Ok & that front crash sensor is known to go bad & may be why I have that audio alarm & maybe the Panel didn't show it before it was repaired .

      I can't find a way to test that from impact sensor , but most say when that light lights with out any code , its one of two things , that front sensor or the light is out for the passenger Air Bag. The Passenger light is working properly , so with out a way to test that front crash sensor , I have to replace it . At 145K , it probably won't hurt to replace it any way @ $100 , for a part that probably only costs ten bucks to make :laffs:

  

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12 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

Yea those fuckers ain't cheap mine crapped out right after I bought my Silverado, I talked my sales guy into eatting the part I paid labor. Think that sensor was 300-400$. I really miss that guy he retired, super cool guy specially since my dad bought 80-90,000$ in suberbans from him in the 90's lol, car salesmen aren't like he was anymore

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