My first AR .308 build parts list

[LensWork]

The following is the parts list for my first AR .308 build. I would greatly appreciate it if you could review it and make suggestions for any compatibility issues or substitutes for sub-standard parts. The build is a DPMS pattern carbine, general purpose hunting and target range. I have most of the parts already except for the barrel, BCG, buffer tube, scope and mount, and bipod.

 

Thank you very much for sharing your expertise and time.

[98Z5V]

The Battle Arms bolt catches are very nice, and I use them in everything I build - IF I can find them in stock when I'm building a gun.  I haven't used the .308 version yet, but if theey state that it's compatible with Aero M5 sets (and they directly stated that), then I'll be picking up several of them, and putting them in my large-frame guns.  They do it right, have no fear, or doubt the product.

Your recoil system is gonna be a nightmare.  Stating that up front.  Don't even consider the spring that you listed.  You state Aero M5 for the receiver extension - that's your choice, and it certainly wouldn't be on my list, due to the length.  You're restricted to 2.500" long buffers, and specific springs, to make that work in a large-frame AR. 

Next, that buffer.  Now, I'm not hating on Odin and their adjustable buffer - not at all.  I'm hating on that short little 2.500" buffer that they LABEL as an "AR-10" buffer.  That's complete bullshiit, and why this industry is such a total fucking mess.  AR-10 Carbine buffers are 3.250" long - IF they are real AR-10 Carbine buffers.  But no, Odin is pushing their product as an "AR-10" buffer, and it's a damn DPMS LR-308 carbine buffer, at 2.500" long.  Wrong terminology, Odin - you guys fucked that one up, royally.  If someone with a real no-shiit AR-10 Carbine buys that thing, it's gonna tear their gun up on the first round - beat the living shiit out of the lower receiver and the BCG.  Dumbass move Odin.  Now, their adjustable buffer is brilliant.  How they marketed that short .308AR 2.500" buffer is idiotic.

If you choose to go this route for your recoil system, and use that Aero receiver extension, be advised that more than one Aero M5 Carbine receiver extension has been made too long, internally.  You want 7.000" internal depth.  I personally have an Aero M5 Carbine receiver extension that measures 7.100" internal depth - and others here have reported that, too - and it took me a damn long time to figure out why my gun was running like shiit.  Get something else for a Carbine receiver extension.  If you insist on sticking with AR15 parts for a .308AR recoil system, and run 7.000" internal extensions, and 2.500" buffers, then run the Sprinco Orange recoil spring.

Next, the gas tube. Don't buy a gas tube until you can get that Wilson Combat barrel IN YOUR HANDS and measure what you'll need for a gas tube.  I have two WC barrels - and needed longer gas tubes, once I got the barrels in, and measured them.  AR15 parts usually don't work well with Wilson Combat barrels, unless you're building a small-frame AR.

Edited February 24, 2021 by 98Z5V

[98Z5V]

Since I trashed your buffer choice so bad, I figure I better explain a little.  The buffer design is brilliant.  Sprinco actually unveiled that design at SHOT SHOW 2 years ago.  Then other companies jumped on the bandwagon, and pushed them to market. 

Odin's choice of labeling and naming that product is sheer stupidity on their part.  But the design is smart.

I do have one of those.  The AR15 Heavy version.  That one buffer lets me test out all my small-frame AR builds (minus the ones that I run with VLTOR A5 recoil systems), and it lets me test out all my large-frame AR builds - because I run carbine receiver extensions that are 7 5/8" internal depth.  Armalite AR-10 Carbine receiver extensions, or VLTOR A5 receiver extensions, or MagPul SR-25/M110 Carbine receiver extensions.  Carbine receiver extensions that are 7 5/8" internal depth allow you to run carbine buffers that are 3.250" long - AR15 carbine buffers.  Run them at the H3 weight (5.4oz), and you won't ever have any issues, on a .308 Winchester shooting .308AR build.  Back that up with an Armalite EA1095 recoil spring, and it's a solid system.  You might find other problems with your gun, but you won't find any problems with your recoil system.

Proof Of Life, I do have one, and I like it. 

 

Edited February 24, 2021 by 98Z5V

[LensWork]

  First let me apologize for the delay in my reply. It was certainly not my intention to “ghost” (I think that’s what the kids call it these days) those who took the time to offer their insights.  The past month has been very difficult, and frankly my AR .308 build has not been at the top of my mind; in-fact I had nearly forgot about it until a box of backordered parts showed up last week. The day after my post and request for assistance (which I greatly appreciate the feedback), I had a close family member pass away, and the day of the funeral another family member was killed in a car accident on the way to the funeral. Then my wife was injured at work, so my energy was devoted to caring for her. Enough with my sob story.

  The Odin AR-10 adjustable buffer that I chose has an overall length of 2.580”, while the Aero Enhanced buffer tube has an internal depth of 6 15/16” - which matches the Aero “standard” mil-spec tube on my Aero M4E1 build. One reason that I chose the Odin buffer was that I had an extra tungsten weight from the Odin AR-15 adjustable buffer that I purchased when tuning my M4E1. Using both the included tungsten weight from the AR-10 buffer and the spare from the AR-15 buffer, the total weight of the buffer is 5.5 oz. The JP .308 carbine spring has a relaxed length of 11.25”, the same as an AR-15 carbine spring. I referenced heavybuffers.com Slash’s Big Buffer Table when selecting the tube, buffer and spring. It shows that the standard length of an AR-15 carbine buffer is 3.25”. An AR .308 requires ~0.540” longer bolt carrier stroke than a 5.56mm AR-15; so if my math is correct, an AR .308 carbine buffer can be no longer (assuming the use of a standard length carbine buffer tube) than 2.71”, which the Odin at 2.5800” falls below, so theoretically there should not be any issue with “short stroking”. The weight of the Odin buffer (with two tungsten weights) at 5.5 oz. falls right in the middle of the 5.4-5.6 oz. weight of AR-10/CAR-10 carbine buffers, and .1 oz. heavier than the recommended 5.4 oz. H3 AR-15 buffer that “won’t ever have any issues, on a .308 Winchester shooting .308AR build”. I can certainly see where the Odin AR-10 buffer, as it comes packaged, at only 4.65 oz. max could be considered too light. I am hoping that between the adjustable buffer and adjustable gas block, I will be able to tune my build for maximum reliability. I have acquired an assortment of .308/7.62mm ammunition from 150-185 gr. for testing (185 gr. being the heaviest/longest bullet that would be stable in the 1:11.25” twist Wilson barrel) once I receive the last of the parts needed to assemble my rifle.

 

[LensWork]

On 2/23/2021 at 9:57 PM, 98Z5V said:

Next, the gas tube. Don't buy a gas tube until you can get that Wilson Combat barrel IN YOUR HANDS and measure what you'll need for a gas tube.  I have two WC barrels - and needed longer gas tubes, once I got the barrels in, and measured them.  AR15 parts usually don't work well with Wilson Combat barrels, unless you're building a small-frame AR.

  I did order a Wilson AR-10 rifle length gas tube with the barrel. Their customer service was confusing at best; I asked if their .308 rifle length gas barrels used a standard AR-15 rifle length gas tube or the longer Armalite rifle length gas tube; the reply that I received stated that a standard rifle length gas tube would work, but that they sold a longer rifle length gas tube that worked better. ??? 

[98Z5V]

44 minutes ago, LensWork said:

so theoretically...

SO, THEORETICALLY...

This is the world that you're working in, and you're swimming in a sea of people that have already done this before, made mistakes, fixed them, and made operational guns out of those mistakes.  So, you can either listen, or work in the "theoretical world" that you know. We know proven solutions, and we've bought them, tested them, found out that some of them didn't work - and moved on to what DID work.  The choice is yours, and yours solely, from here forward.

You've chosen your buffer system.  My only advice to you at this point it to forget everything you think you know about recoil systems - since you've chosen your hard parts - and use a Sprinco Orange spring.  That's the ONLY spring that's ever been devised, by ANY manufacturer, for the combination of recoil-system parts that you chose to use. 

You can take that for what it's worth, but you'll be a fool to ignore that recommendation.

There's my $0.02 on your recoil system. 

Edited March 23, 2021 by 98Z5V

[98Z5V]

19 minutes ago, LensWork said:

  I did order a Wilson AR-10 rifle length gas tube with the barrel. Their customer service was confusing at best; I asked if their .308 rifle length gas barrels used a standard AR-15 rifle length gas tube or the longer Armalite rifle length gas tube; the reply that I received stated that a standard rifle length gas tube would work, but that they sold a longer rifle length gas tube that worked better. ??? 

I've stated my Wilson Combat gas-tube length before here.  It's written, on what I had to do to mine, for a proper gas tube.  The answer that they gave you should tell the story on their gas port location.  That's the proof in the pudding that I've been looking for, from them.  They know EXACTLY what they're doing with that bullshiit "In-Between" gas port drilling that they're doing.  It's not "AR15/DPMS LR-308 gas port location, and it's not Armalite AR-10 gas port location"...  it's IN BETWEEN those two locations, and they HOPE that whatever customer, with whatever gas tube, gets their gun to run on whatever ammo...  It's complete Horseshiit, from a barrel manufacturers standpoint, because they don't know the real differences between the two systems - and they DON'T CARE...  "Let's just toss it up, and it'll work for most people, most of the time, with most of the ammo - and they can get whatever gas tube is available..."  It's a crock of shiit...

I hope they're reading this - they have in the past, and they FIXED their bad gas port diameter in their 20" .260 Rem rifle-length gas port diameter.  It was 0.070, and that didn't work, and I made my information known that it needed to be 0.080" gas port diameter...  and now all THOSE barrels ship with a gas port that's 0.080"... 

Who'd a thunk it. 

Edited March 23, 2021 by 98Z5V

[98Z5V]

Read this:

 

[LensWork]

8 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

 and use a Sprinco Orange spring.  That's the ONLY spring that's ever been devised, by ANY manufacturer, for the combination of recoil-system parts that you chose to use. 

You can take that for what it's worth, but you'll be a fool to ignore that recommendation.

There's my $0.02 on your recoil system. 

From the nokick.com website:

“JP Tuned and Polished Extra Power Buffer Spring - 308 Carbine (for collapsible stocks)

*Designed for .308/7.62mm AR style carbines with M4 length, 7" deep buffer tubes and 2.5" buffers.”

  Call me a fool then, but it sounds like there IS another manufacturer that makes a spring for the combination of recoil system parts that I have chosen, and it is the spring that I purchased.

    I did ask for advice, and I greatly appreciate your time and effort in responding to my questions, but calling someone a fool if they don’t blindly heed your advice (which as I quoted above is apparently not accurate) is not the way to share your obvious wealth of knowledge. So thank you very much for the lesson. Where should I mail the $0.02 check to? If in the (unlikely) event that the JP spring is not correct for the Aero tube and Odin buffer, I’ll make it a check for $20 and get the Sprinco Orange spring.

  Also, I can understand (to a point) your disdain for Odin labeling their AR large frame carbine buffer as “AR-10”, and technically you are correct, AR-10 is the trade-name of Armalite pattern rifles, which the Odin buffer is not designed for, but however incorrect, “AR-10” is commonly  used  as a generic term for large frame .308 Winchester based AR type weapons. I can 100% agree that using the generic term “AR-10” when it should properly be labeled as DPMS pattern .308 can lead to those that are obviously less informed than you in selecting the incorrect parts. However, when you use language like: “complete bullshiit”, “total fucking mess”, “fucked that one up, royally”,  “Dumbass move”, frankly I question if your statements are that of an informed adult, or the ramblings of a self-centered youngster. I am no snowflake (former Marine and LEO), but when someone espouses their opinions in a public forum in the manner that you have, directed at an individual that they do not know from Adam, it lessens your credibility to me.

  Thank you again for your input.

[LensWork]

  I am going to get a different scope mount than the one that I listed at the top of this thread; the Aero mount that I listed I believe is more suited for an AR-15 than an AR .308. I am leaning toward the Wilson Combat V3 Ultralight AR Scope Mount, 30mm https://shopwilsoncombat.com/V3-Ultralight-AR-Scope-Mount-30mm/productinfo/TR-LWM-30/  or the American Defense Manufacturing AD-RECON-S. I am torn between a quick-detach mount and a bolt-on (non-QD) mount. This is going to be a hunting/range rifle, so the need to quickly remove the scope and switch to BUIS in a SHTF scenario does not apply (I have a 14.5” barreled M4E1 with a 1-6X LPVO and BUIS for such an occasion). The bolt-on type mount is a couple of ounces lighter than a QD mount, and not having BUIS saves another ~2.5 oz., total weight savings ~4.5 oz. As they say ounces equals pounds and pounds equals pain, and in my advancing age and with two bad knees, every little bit helps. I would rather spend the weight on the 56mm objective lens version of the scope as opposed to the 42mm version for better low-light target identification. Also I believe that with the bolt-on type mount, especially the Wilson with three cross-bolts, there is less chance of the mount/scope shifting, which at 15X and longer ranges, even the very slightest movement would result in a major shift in POI. It can be said that in a hunting scenario, should something happen to the scope, having BUIS could be the difference between meat on the table and a wasted day. 
 

  What say you: bolt-on mount or QD with BUIS ?

  Thank you in advance for your input!

[98Z5V]

12 hours ago, LensWork said:

From the nokick.com website:

“JP Tuned and Polished Extra Power Buffer Spring - 308 Carbine (for collapsible stocks)

*Designed for .308/7.62mm AR style carbines with M4 length, 7" deep buffer tubes and 2.5" buffers.”

  Call me a fool then, but it sounds like there IS another manufacturer that makes a spring for the combination of recoil system parts that I have chosen, and it is the spring that I purchased.

    I did ask for advice, and I greatly appreciate your time and effort in responding to my questions, but calling someone a fool if they don’t blindly heed your advice (which as I quoted above is apparently not accurate) is not the way to share your obvious wealth of knowledge. So thank you very much for the lesson. Where should I mail the $0.02 check to? If in the (unlikely) event that the JP spring is not correct for the Aero tube and Odin buffer, I’ll make it a check for $20 and get the Sprinco Orange spring.

 

Hey, you drive on - do your own thing.  If you already had it figured out - then why are you here asking questions?...  

Let us all know how it works out.  I'll be thrilled with the after-action report.  Best of luck to you. 

I'm deeply sorry that you were OBVIOUSLY offended by the word "fool", and I hope that the rest of life is easier on you, so as not to offend you, throughout your life.  That has to be hard - being offended by everyone, all the time.  So, in short, toughen the fuk up, don't be so easily offended, and realize that life is tough.  Otherwise, if THAT offended you, then just fuk yourself. 

Pick what kind of person you want to be in this world that we live in.  You have all kinds of options.  If you pick to be "easily offended", then life won't be good to you until ALL the Easily-Offended take over.  Then you can all attack all the businesses you want with your weak-ass Yelp-Reviews, and extinguish everything that you hate - online, faceless, and with zero balls to live in this world.  That's my $0.02 on it.  Hope it didn't offend you.  Again.

Edited March 24, 2021 by 98Z5V

[98Z5V]

13 hours ago, LensWork said:

From the nokick.com website:

“JP Tuned and Polished Extra Power Buffer Spring ...

I'm glad that you quoted a vendor, that sells parts, and that you ignore years of personal experience on this weapons platform.  Ya done good, here, ignoring solid advice. 

But, you do you. 

[Black_Sheep]

On 3/23/2021 at 12:38 AM, 98Z5V said:

I've stated my Wilson Combat gas-tube length before here.  It's written, on what I had to do to mine, for a proper gas tube.  The answer that they gave you should tell the story on their gas port location.  That's the proof in the pudding that I've been looking for, from them.  They know EXACTLY what they're doing with that bullshiit "In-Between" gas port drilling that they're doing.  It's not "AR15/DPMS LR-308 gas port location, and it's not Armalite AR-10 gas port location"...  it's IN BETWEEN those two locations, and they HOPE that whatever customer, with whatever gas tube, gets their gun to run on whatever ammo...  It's complete Horseshiit, from a barrel manufacturers standpoint, because they don't know the real differences between the two systems - and they DON'T CARE...  "Let's just toss it up, and it'll work for most people, most of the time, with most of the ammo - and they can get whatever gas tube is available..."  It's a crock of shiit...

I hope they're reading this - they have in the past, and they FIXED their bad gas port diameter in their 20" .260 Rem rifle-length gas port diameter.  It was 0.070, and that didn't work, and I made my information known that it needed to be 0.080" gas port diameter...  and now all THOSE barrels ship with a gas port that's 0.080"... 

Who'd a thunk it. 

I don't disagree, the response from WC customer service that I posted in my short stroking thread  backs up what you're saying. So does having the gun function correctly after addressing the undersized gas port and too light buffer.

That said, I still like WC's products. In their defense, the website lists the correct gas tube length and gas block diameter in the specs for each barrel. The 13.25" Intermediate length is the one to watch out for as it's proprietary to WC. I have one on my M5 and the one for my latest 5.56 build is finally on the way after a months long backorder. The barrel configuration I like is only available with the intermediate length gas system. All I could do is wait...

[LensWork]

3 hours ago, Black_Sheep said:

I don't disagree, the response from WC customer service that I posted in my short stroking thread  backs up what you're saying. So does having the gun function correctly after addressing the undersized gas port and too light buffer.

That said, I still like WC's products. In their defense, the website lists the correct gas tube length and gas block diameter in the specs for each barrel. The 13.25" Intermediate length is the one to watch out for as it's proprietary to WC. I have one on my M5 and the one for my latest 5.56 build is finally on the way after a months long backorder. The barrel configuration I like is only available with the intermediate length gas system. All I could do is wait...

I ended up ordering their (Wilson Combat) AR10 rifle length gas tube with their 18” hunter profile .308 barrel; So I will have an extra AP melonite rifle length gas tube. I am sure that I will find a use for it on another upper build for either my M4E1 or M5. If not, I am only out $15.

 

I am still waiting on the barrel and Lantac BCG. Other than that, the only parts that I don’t already have in-hand, or on-order, is a scope and bipod.

Edited April 18, 2021 by LensWork
Additional information

[LensWork]

  I wanted to update any interested parties that graciously contributed their knowledge and experience to guide me in the selection of components for my first AR .308 build. I got tired of waiting on the last couple of parts, namely the barrel and BCG. After having both items on backorder for 3 1/2 months, and multiple estimated delivery dates come and go, and no revised ship date, I was able to snag comparable items that were briefly available before they too were sold out:

Barrel: Criterion DPMS Pattern 18″ 308 AR HYBRID, RIFLE GAS, SS, 1-10 T, Nitride 

Bolt Carrier: JP Low Mass Bolt Carrier - Large-Frame (.308) - Polished Stainless Steel 

Bolt: JP EnhancedBolt™ with Bolt Assembly Completion Group - .308 , IonBond DLC black 

  The best part is that the substitute parts actually saved me ~$170! Also, I purchased the standard Aero Ultralight scope mount instead of the SPR version in my list at the top of this thread. I found that because of the longer length of the M5 upper — compared to an AR-15 upper — the offset of the SPR mount was not needed. The scope is at Gibbs Guns for application of Cerakote to match the Aero FDE. Once everything is assembled (Gibbs has about a six-week backlog to Cerakote the scope), I will post pictures before I dirty it up dialing everything in.

Edited July 28, 2021 by LensWork

[shooterrex]

The low mass bolt carrier now weighs less. You ordered a recoil system for the heavier BCG. It all works as a unit. You change something it effects everything else.

[LensWork]

10 hours ago, shooterrex said:

The low mass bolt carrier now weighs less. You ordered a recoil system for the heavier BCG. It all works as a unit. You change something it effects everything else.

  True; hopefully between the adjustable buffer and the adjustable gas block, I will be able to tune the system for reliable, consistent function, hopefully 🙏. I got impatient waiting on the Lantac BCG. Once I got the barrel, the BCG was the last part I needed, and after ten months of acquiring all the parts to build the M5  — beginning with the lower receiver last October. — I was anxious to complete this project. I scored the JP bolt carrier and bolt for such a deal ($226.28 for both), and they were in-stock, so I just couldn’t pass it up.
 

  Before I placed my order for the JP components, I ran momentum simulations using the two ounce lighter (16 vs. 18.1) JP carrier, and with the adjustable-weight buffer only, I was able to duplicate the reciprocating values (velocity, time, distance and energy) to within 0.4%. The adjustable gas block should give me an additional factor to compensate for any other variables, such as different ammunition. I know all the calculations are no substitute for actual live-fire testing, but based upon the results of the calculations, I should be close enough that further adjustments of the buffer weight and gas block should result in a reliable weapon. I have been reminded that the window for reliable function of a .308 AR carbine is smaller than that of a rifle length buffer system, and smaller yet than that of an AR-15. Hopefully given the adjustability in the components that I have chosen, I will be able to thread the needle and fit through that small window.

[98Z5V]

8 hours ago, LensWork said:

  Before I placed my order for the JP components, I ran momentum simulations using the two ounce lighter (16 vs. 18.1) JP carrier, and with the adjustable-weight buffer only, I was able to duplicate the reciprocating values (velocity, time, distance and energy) to within 0.4%. The adjustable gas block should give me an additional factor to compensate for any other variables, such as different ammunition. I know all the calculations are no substitute for actual live-fire testing, but based upon the results of the calculations, I should be close enough that further adjustments of the buffer weight and gas block should result in a reliable weapon.

WOW.

[LensWork]

Received a text from the gunsmith assembling my M5 that the test-fire was flawless and that I can pick it up in the morning. Very excited! My scope should be back from Cerakote in about ten days, then I can take this bad boy out to the range to dial it in.

[98Z5V]

18 minutes ago, LensWork said:

Received a text from the gunsmith assembling my M5 that the test-fire was flawless and that I can pick it up in the morning. Very excited! My scope should be back from Cerakote in about ten days, then I can take this bad boy out to the range to dial it in.

You're not building this yourself?  You had someone else do it?

Why is that?

[308USK]

On 8/21/2021 at 12:23 AM, LensWork said:

Received a text from the gunsmith assembling my M5 that the test-fire was flawless and that I can pick it up in the morning. Very excited! My scope should be back from Cerakote in about ten days, then I can take this bad boy out to the range to dial it in.

This is said with all due respect: "build one yourself!" 

I am building my M5 for a myriad of reasons, but primarily because I feel the more I know about putting the weapon together, the better I can diagnose issues OR repair/tweak when necessary.

I've put the lower together and am awaiting a jig (SLR Rifleworks Dimple Jig), so that I can dimple the the barrel for securing the gas block.  The jig will be here tomorrow, but with a road-trip later this week to deliver our youngest Son his car at Camp Lejeune, I won't be able to finish the upper until after next weekend.  

So far, the process has been pretty straight forward, sans a serious blond moment when I put the Bad-Ass Pro Ambidextrous safety selector devices on upside down (ROTFLMAO).  Probably the hardest thing to install was my Geissele trigger, but in all honesty, I felt like I had accomplished something when it was installed and I tested it (making sure to NOT let the hammer fly loosely).

Plan on building another upper with either a 22" or 24" barrel chambered in 6.5cm, so I can swap out the upper if I feel like reaching way out there!

[LensWork]

12 hours ago, 308USK said:

This is said with all due respect: "build one yourself!" 

I would, but I don’t have the (physical) mechanical aptitude; I never have. My abilities are limited to basic field-stripping for cleaning. I can (could) change the oil in my car, but I would never even attempt to rebuild the engine. My strengths have always been on the research, theory and technical analysis. As someone once said, “a man has to know his limitations”.

[Armed Eye Doc]

53 minutes ago, LensWork said:

I would, but I don’t have the (physical) mechanical aptitude; I never have. My abilities are limited to basic field-stripping for cleaning. I can (could) change the oil in my car, but I would never even attempt to rebuild the engine. My strengths have always been on the research, theory and technical analysis. As someone once said, “a man has to know his limitations”.

If you know the gunsmith, maybe he could show you how it goes together.  Having practical knowledge of how something works is an invaluable addition to theoretically understanding how it works.

[LensWork]

1 hour ago, Armed Eye Doc said:

If you know the gunsmith, maybe he could show you how it goes together.  Having practical knowledge of how something works is an invaluable addition to theoretically understanding how it works.

The ‘smith that built my M5 works for the FFL that I bought the lower from, so I really don’t “know” him, other than by reputation. He built several M5s for the SWAT team of a Central Florida Sheriff’s Office. Given his experience with the idiosyncrasies of the M5 platform, and the $2k investment in parts that I made, the $125 he charged to assemble my rifle I feel was money well spent. I once saw a sign in an automotive repair shop that said something like:

Hourly Rate

$50

$75 if you watch 

$100 if you ask questions 

$200 if you started the work yourself 

 

There are so many resources available today (YouTube videos, forums, Facebook groups, manufacturer’s product websites, independent publications tests/reviews) to understand how something works — and what doesn’t work — that with enough time spent doing research, even someone like myself can cobble together parts for a functional weapon.
 

My problem is that I just don’t have the physical skills/capacity to assemble the parts. So much of what makes a good gunsmith/mechanic/etc. is feel/touch. After more than a decade as a competitive IPSC shooter during the ‘80s & ‘90s when the floor for making Major Power Factor was 180, I have lost much of the feeling in my hands as a result of firing at least 500 rounds of .45ACP per week in practice, plus another 200+ rounds in weekly matches. I have had multiple surgeries on both of my hands and wrists, surgery on both shoulders and my neck (thanks to a car accident) and I still have pinched nerves that affect my dexterity. Not everyone can drive a race car, and few drivers can build one, so I try to stay in my lane.

[308USK]

On 8/23/2021 at 9:36 AM, LensWork said:

I would, but I don’t have the (physical) mechanical aptitude; I never have. My abilities are limited to basic field-stripping for cleaning. I can (could) change the oil in my car, but I would never even attempt to rebuild the engine. My strengths have always been on the research, theory and technical analysis. As someone once said, “a man has to know his limitations”.

I totally hear ya...but I had never built an AR before I built mine!  I did my research (this forum rocks!!) and found some YouTube / Vimeo videos for some of the more detailed steps...but really, it's not that difficult!!   Best wishes!!