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THREE QUESTIONS


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(1) From what I have read... Looks like a trigger upgrade would be first. Question is: (a) two stage trigger? (using this for hunting and target shooting)

first two choices.. Money is a factor in these upgrades.

(2) Hand guards.. (Oracle .308LR) would like to put a removable bi-pod on it.

(3) Barrels.. (18-20") Would like to reach out and touch my target at 500 yds.

Thanks in advance for all info given.

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From my limited experience

1) Only know what I've read.  I just polished my Oracle trigger and it's good enough for me at this time.

2) I bought a railed hand guard that fits in place of the Oracle hand guard, not free floated.

3) I shoot around MOA out to 400.  That's as far as I've had a place to shoot yet.

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1. i like two stage personally

2.http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22876/avs|Make_3=AR%20xzzx308/view=g/Product/AR-15-M16-AR-STYLE-JP-MODULAR-HANDGUARD-SYSTEM , this gives you rail options where you want them, is reasonably priced, and is light and free floated

3.your 16" may be ok to 300, i'd go out and try killing paper at that range before you invest in a barrel, to make sure you need it. if yes, the 18 may be better trudging thru the woods

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What exactly is the difference between a single stage trigger and a two stage trigger? I've always been a pistolero and never dealt with rifle triggers much so I'm a bit confused as to how the two function differently. Now, if you want a 2 lb. trigger on your 1911 I'm your man, I can knock em out all day with good parts. <thumbsup>

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Well, as best I can explain it, it's pretty much just as it sounds. A single stage trigger has only one phase through which it is pulled to the break. A two stage trigger usually has two phases, the first of which is usually heavier than the second, allowing the shooter to pull through the first stage and prepare for the break in the second.

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I never used a two stage until I installed a Geissele SSA in my 20' & am sold on them for target or hunting . The first stage gives you a more precise second stage or sear disengagement.

I plan on installing more of them in my AR's . There are good ,less expensive ones out there , I just have no experience with them , others here do .

Hand guards , any DPMS type I believe.

As said you may be impressed with a 16" bbl..

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I prefer 1 stage setups.

I did the free 10 minute trigger job on one of my rifles. Its either 2lb or 3lb pull and crisp break for zero dollars that some companies charge hundreds for.

:o

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(1) From what I have read... Looks like a trigger upgrade would be first. Question is: (a) two stage trigger? (using this for hunting and target shooting)

first two choices.. Money is a factor in these upgrades.

(2) Hand guards.. (Oracle .308LR) would like to put a removable bi-pod on it.

(3) Barrels.. (18-20") Would like to reach out and touch my target at 500 yds.

Thanks in advance for all info given.

1.  I use a tuned RR NM 2 stage, tuned by WOA to 3.5 pounds, in all two dozen plus of my ARs and LRs.  For me there is no better trigger at any price. The "word" on some sites is they will only last about 4,000 rounds.  Funny, somehow those on my 5.56 rifles failed to get that memo, having gone well over twice that on a few of them.

2.  I have used 4 different handguards on my LR-308s.  On the .500 Phantom it wears a 12 DD Lite rail.  I like it a lot and it is indeed light.  This one gives you more than enough real estate to mount anything you want on it.

The .470 Rhino is a simple aluminum DPMS tube with a 4 inch rail mounted on the 6:00 position for bipod use.  For the LR-308 in .358 HDH, it wears a DPMS carbon fiber 12 inch tube with a 4 inch rail mounted at 6:00, also for a bipod.  The LR-308 in .338 Federal uses a custom made CF tube that is 15 inches long and mounts to a DD Light rail barrel nut.  These have worked for me very well and the CF tubes are great in the deer stand, not getting anywhere near as cold as the metal ones do.  The DD is not too bad if you cover it with rail protectors but it is still a lot colder than the CF tubes.

3.  The .500 wears a 16 inch and that is about perfect for a rifle made for 250 yards or less.  The .470 and .358 wear 24 inch tubes.  The Rhino needs a nose job and I wish it had been done at 20 inches instead of 24, but the added length is needed to get every last FPS out of it and still it comes in 200 fps short of the original goal of equaling the .470 Nitro Express. Still not for sissies though but it is a heavy profile and makes for a 12 pound plus rifle.  The .358's barrel is more lightweight and the 24 inch tube is not a problem at all in a deer stand, but it could be in thick brush.  However, I built it (the 1.625 version) to exceed the .358 Win, now going to exceed the .35 Whelen with the 1.800 inch version, and to do that I needed every inch of barrel I could get.  Now that the maximum case length has been lengthened to 1.800 inches for deer hunting in IN I am glad I did go with the 24 since I have 20% more powder to burn with the longer round.

The Federal wears an 18 inch and honestly, that is my favorite length of the four for being a well balanced rifle.  However, I would not have minded two more inches (typical guy).  It is short enough to get through thick stuff but long enough to get respectable velocities out of it.  So, now that I have rambled a bit, if I were doing a .308 for out to 500 yards, I'd go with a 20 inch.  When shooting at that range it is more about doping the wind and exact range measurements than it is every last fps.

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